I have a 1930-something Ford 9N that my wife bought me for an anniversary present a few years ago. It ran and started great, the problem being that it had a rod knock. Well, actually all 4 rods knocking. So into the garage the thing went, engine pulled off, got it rebuilt. This has been a tremendously slow project, and really if I was smart I would've let someone else tackle it and gotten a different tractor. But, we like this thing - it really is cool. Tractor sat for about 2 years over the course of the engine rebuild due to me having too many irons in the fire. The engine is rebuilt and back together, compression on all 4 cylinders. I wired up the tractor the way it was wired up, at least to the best of my recollection and from what I could tell. The thing has about 5 wires anyway. It's got a front mount distributor with electronic ignition installed, which was how I received it from the previous owner. It has had a 12V negative ground conversion, and the distributor only bolts to the engine one way so timing doesn't seem to be an issue. The tractor has refused to start with the engine back together. It would catch and then immediately die after catching. It sounded like it has compression on all 4 cylinders. I've confirmed the firing order is correct and I confirmed spark at all 4 cylinders. So, my first thought was the carb that had been sitting for 2 years (and was an unknown age anyway) got gummed up. Got a replacement in, installed that, adjusted it, same problem. However then it got to where it wouldn't even catch after a bit, so I start looking at the distributor and see the coil is cracked and melted. I had left the key in the "on" position some during figuring things out with the engine not running, so it's possible that had caused the issue. This got me questioning whether I wired the distributor correctly. The 9N distributor coil has one attachment on top and then it looks like it has another wire attachment on the side. It looks as though the side was never used. From the attachment to the coil on top, the electronic ignition module has one (red) wire that goes to it. These tractors had a ballast resistor on them (which I haven't found on it yet). Supposedly even with the 12V negative ground conversions, you need to keep that ballast resistor. So it looks like the previous owner had screwed that up, which isn't surprising at all. At this point I'm trying to figure out a few things: 1) What I should do for ignition components to replace. My options are to keep it as electronic ignition (just get new cap/rotor/module itself/coil), upgrade to the Pertronix automotive style coil, revert to points, or try to find a magneto to put on (which was another option). The magneto seems to be hard to find, so that's probably not a good option. 2) I'm also thinking about if I should be checking the cam timing to make sure that I haven't screwed things up there. The fact that the ignition mysteriously died after sitting for 2 years seems less probable, but I suppose it's possible since I don't know how old it was. Ultimately I'm either used to magnetos and aircraft fuel systems or else modern fuel injection/electronic ignition/whatever from the factory.