Which torque wrench?

Which 2 torque wrenches would you buy?

  • 3/8" old-school beam (bendy dial)

    Votes: 2 10.5%

  • 3/8" micrometer (clicky)

    Votes: 10 52.6%

  • 3/8" split beam (clicky)

    Votes: 1 5.3%

  • 3/8" digital (beepy)

    Votes: 4 21.1%

  • 1/2" old-school beam (bendy dial)

    Votes: 3 15.8%

  • 1/2" micrometer (clicky)

    Votes: 9 47.4%

  • 1/2" split beam (clicky)

    Votes: 1 5.3%

  • 1/2" digital (beepy)

    Votes: 3 15.8%
  • Total voters
    19
A

asicer

Final Approach
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asicer
Suppose your tool chest can only have one 3/8" drive torque wrench and one 1/2" drive torque wrench. Which two would they be?
 
You didn't include 1/4" for the small stuff... I have one of those (clicky), a 3/8 beeper, and two 1/2 clickys.
 
asicer said:
Suppose your tool chest can only have one 3/8" drive torque wrench and one 1/2" drive torque wrench. Which two would they be?
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In my experience, it would depend on what you were frequently torquing and at what value. I wore out two 1/4" inch-pound torque wrenches yet still have my original 3/8" tq wrench. Throw in some torque requirements can only be performed by a dial-type tq wrench then you need to take that into consideration. However, some aviation ops do not permit digital/electronic tq wrenches. Regardless, if you're looking for only two options, I would pick a 1/4" and 1/2" click type wrench to fill the space.
 
Bell206 said:
In my experience, it would depend on what you were frequently torquing and at what value. I wore out two 1/4" inch-pound torque wrenches yet still have my original 3/8" tq wrench. Throw in some torque requirements can only be performed by a dial-type tq wrench then you need to take that into consideration. However, some aviation ops do not permit digital/electronic tq wrenches. Regardless, if you're looking for only two options, I would pick a 1/4" and 1/2" click type wrench to fill the space.
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Split-beam clicky (side knob and dial)? Or micrometer style clicky (sleeve, thimble and screw-stop)?
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One night at a race near Shreveport, LA we needed to change both heads on our motor. There was not enough time to go through the torquing procedure, so we used a air wrench to torque the heads. And finished the race 4th or 5th.
 
Not possible for a single one to cover the entire range you will need. You will find that you need from under 10 pound/inches to nearly 200 pound/feet if you work on much stuff.
 
My preference would be for the split beam type because:
- you're not applying pressure to the part that changes the tension, so there is no way to realistically change your torque setting while using it.
- you don't have to remember to reset it to lowest value when storing it.

but when I price them, I can usually buy two micrometer type from the same company for the price of one split beam type.

Then it devolves into a:
- I really like the look and features of the split beam
- yeah, but how often have you accidentally changed your torque setting more than a hair, or forgotten to reset to 0?

Then my cheap frugal side kicks in.
"Will the micrometer type do the job?"
"yes"
"is there any concern the same company uses an inferior certification for the micrometer vs split beam?"
"no"
"ok, then we're not spending more money"
and then I buy the micrometer.

but my preference would be the split beam.
 
I own a 3/8 and 1/2 micrometer click type and a 3/4 split beam click type, and a 3:1 torque multiplier. I don't use them every day but I keep 3 of them on the truck all the time.
 
It doesn’t matter what kind of torque wrench you use if it isn’t accurate, and you don’t know that it’s accurate unless it’s been calibrated, and I have no idea how to do that!

I wonder how often an A&P gets his calibrated.
 
OneCharlieTango said:
and I have no idea how to do that!
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If you don't need a certificate of calibration you can check the wrench accuracy via several DIY methods. I believe youtube has a few videos. If need a certificate then either send/take it to the OEM or a shop that can issue one. Snap-on used to have calibration blocks on their trucks.
OneCharlieTango said:
I wonder how often an A&P gets his calibrated.
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Depends. If working Part 135/145 there usually is a calibration policy which is typically every 6 mo or 1 year. For Part 91 mx there is no "defined" limit but the guidance states to use tools per "accepted industry practices" which if the wrench OEM recommends calibrating every year, then technically the mechanic should check the calibration annually. I had all my measuring tools checked annually either through work or a local shop.
 
Ours get calibrated on a yearly basis, unless it is dropped. Then it gets tagged and sent off immediately to the cal lab.
 
Bell206 said:
If you don't need a certificate of calibration you can check the wrench accuracy via several DIY methods. I believe youtube has a few videos. If need a certificate then either send/take it to the OEM or a shop that can issue one. Snap-on used to have calibration blocks on their trucks.
Click to expand...
I watched a DIY video entitled something like “How to Calibrate a Torque Wrench Using a Fish Scale.” It was pretty straightforward.

The first comment said, “See our next video, How to Calibrate a Fish Scale Using a Torque Wrench.” :)

All of the DIY solutions I’ve seen have a GI/GO problem.

As to the OP, I like digital beepers best for everything, but they cost more than they’re worth.
 
If by "micrometer" you mean a twisty handle, then ...
For a long time I only had a 1/2" micrometer clicky with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. Anything smaller I'd torque by "feel."
Now I also have a 1/4" micrometer clicky. Turns out, my "feel" was fairly close.
 
The vote percentages add up to more than 100%.
 
The total is more than 100% because I am voting what I have, rather than the ideal. I suspect others do too.

Craftsman bendy 1/2 inch, my original, take it to work occasionally to calibrate.

Micrometer 1/2 inch, calibrate at home to bendy.

Micrometer 3/8 inch, calibrate at home to bendy, using 3 to 1 multiplier, or a 12 inch lever and 1or 10 pound weight. These low calibrations were just before using with the 3/8 to 1/4 adapter.

I have done enough lug nuts that I do them by muscle feel, and my son checked behind me one day, none moved below 90, all moved before 110, the spec was 100. Plus or minus 10% is not bad for 42 lugs, most would have been well inside that range. 10 wheels and tires stacked in the garage, all year.

All 4 wheels of 2 front drive cars, 4 nuts each, 2 wheels on 5 bolt rear drive car. Changeover to snow tires at the first certain snowfall, back off in February. For work, I often drove hundreds of miles in the Washington DC area when it snowed, and the snow tires on the rear wheels made braking much more effective with the front drive cars.
 
OneCharlieTango said:
All of the DIY solutions I’ve seen have a GI/GO problem.
Click to expand...
The DIY versions I was referencing do not compare the wrench to another measuring device for the same reason. Look for the ones that secure the wrench drive in a vise and hang a known weight off the handle then use a little math to see how accurate they are. Depending on which limits you use, you can get usually get the wrench to within the common accuracy limits of 2-4% over the middle 80% range of the wrench. If your wrench doesn't have an obvious adjustment point, you can also use this method to develop a "conversion" factor to adjust your wrench setting if you found the wrench was out of limits.
 
asicer said:
Suppose your tool chest can only have one 3/8" drive torque wrench and one 1/2" drive torque wrench. Which two would they be?
Click to expand...
That's a tough question. Like said it depends on the task.
Eventually save up and buy both but I am not sure which is best first?
Probably a 3/8" for use around lot's of things on aircraft.
These are both snap on and I have used them a lot since the 80s. I'd get a mechanical one verses battery.
IMG_21031.jpg
 
Gary Ward said:
That's a tough question. Like said it depends on the task.
Eventually save up and buy both but I am not sure which is best first?
Click to expand...
Actually, you can vote up to 2 candidates, presumably one of them 3/8" and one of them 1/2" since the question posits that you can only have one 3/8" AND one 1/2". I also set the poll so that you are allowed to change your vote(s).

From your picture, looks like your wallet voted in favor of both being split beam.
 
OneCharlieTango said:
I watched a DIY video entitled something like “How to Calibrate a Torque Wrench Using a Fish Scale.” It was pretty straightforward.

The first comment said, “See our next video, How to Calibrate a Fish Scale Using a Torque Wrench.” :)

All of the DIY solutions I’ve seen have a GI/GO problem.

As to the OP, I like digital beepers best for everything, but they cost more than they’re worth.
Click to expand...

I use a luggage scale, but I first check the scale's accuracy against known weights.

After having Craftsman torque wrenches fail and have no warranty, I bought HF wrenches. So far they've been accurate and reliable, and HF does warranty them for life.
 
Zeldman said:
One night at a race near Shreveport, LA we needed to change both heads on our motor. There was not enough time to go through the torquing procedure, so we used a air wrench to torque the heads. And finished the race 4th or 5th.
Click to expand...

Just think - if you'd torqued it properly you might have won.
:devil:
 
Project Farm recently reviewed torque wrenches. it's worth a watch.
 
asicer said:
Actually, you can vote up to 2 candidates, presumably one of them 3/8" and one of them 1/2" since the question posits that you can only have one 3/8" AND one 1/2". I also set the poll so that you are allowed to change your vote(s).

From your picture, looks like your wallet voted in favor of both being split beam.
Click to expand...
When I bought mine I didn't know anything about the different designs. I bought whatever the snap on dealer was selling.1988? I used them at work for the first 10 years.
My dealer has a tool in his truck where he can check your torque wrench. I think it more of a compare it against their standard? I don't think he is gonna give you a certificate of calibration?
I also have set of Mac torque wrenches, they are the twist the handle type and keep it at zero when storing it. They have held up just fine also although they haven't been used as hard as the snap on which was used at the races by multiple crew members for 9 years. Used hard and out in the weather.
I still use them today.
 
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Gary Ward said:
haven't been used as hard as the snap on which was used at the races by multiple crew members for 9 years. Used hard and out in the weather.
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That sort of race day usage sounds like a good fit for the split beam type: Get a torque reading quickly and without looking, unlike a bendy beam type. Don't have to reset to zero to avoid coil spring memory, unlike a clicky micrometer type. Don't have to worry about the weather, unlike a digital type.
 
I have a Kobalt 1/2" ft-lb, Husky 3/8" ft-lb, and a Craftsman 3/8 in-lb. All micrometer style. I mostly just use them on lug nuts (165 ft-lbs for the Excursion) and general automotive stuff when I happen to have the torque spec. Otherwise it's just the guttentite method.
 
I had only clickers, but bought an electronic one (beeper) because it displays the torque as you go, which is necessary when checking / retorquing wood prop bolts. And for other things I really like the beep...beep..beep-beep-beeeeeep as you reach the target.
 
I think if my toolbox could only have two torque wrenches, I'd get a bigger toolbox. You need ft-lbs and in-lbs in multiple sizes. You don't want to use one for the other.

Otherwise, I've always used micrometer wrenches, but I could be convinced to change if there was a reason.
 
It really depends on what you're working on and what things you plan on using a torque wrench for. My first torque wrench I bought was a 1/2" Harbor Freight click type. That did what I needed for the most part since I don't use a torque wrench all the time, and mostly on things that needed more precision (cylinder heads, things like that). I have a couple of those, and I also have a 3/8" of the same style.

My primary one I use now is a 3/8" digital Harbor Freight one, and that ends up doing about 90% of what I need. I bought that because I came across a torque that involved a torque spec followed by a rotation spec, and this one did the rotation measurement as well. That's really useful.

But what ends up happening is other things drive different torque wrenches. I have a 1/4" drive bendy beam type that I bought because I needed to measure the torque while turning the pinion on the 8.8" axle for rebuilding the Cobra. And then I've got a 3/4" drive giant one that goes to 600 ft-lbs which I bought to torque the lug nuts on the bus.

So just one? Get the 3/8" digital one.
 
Ted said:
It really depends on what you're working on and what things you plan on using a torque wrench for. My first torque wrench I bought was a 1/2" Harbor Freight click type. That did what I needed for the most part since I don't use a torque wrench all the time, and mostly on things that needed more precision (cylinder heads, things like that). I have a couple of those, and I also have a 3/8" of the same style.

My primary one I use now is a 3/8" digital Harbor Freight one, and that ends up doing about 90% of what I need. I bought that because I came across a torque that involved a torque spec followed by a rotation spec, and this one did the rotation measurement as well. That's really useful.

But what ends up happening is other things drive different torque wrenches. I have a 1/4" drive bendy beam type that I bought because I needed to measure the torque while turning the pinion on the 8.8" axle for rebuilding the Cobra. And then I've got a 3/4" drive giant one that goes to 600 ft-lbs which I bought to torque the lug nuts on the bus.

So just one? Get the 3/8" digital one.
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Rear floating axle on the SuperDuty is a torque-spec then back off 5 clicks (for new bearings) or 7 clicks (for old bearings). Always thought it was an interesting way to set preload on the outer bearing sets.
 
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