Stupid question ref: oil changes

WDD said:
How do you measure torque when using the body of the filter and not the nut?
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I have a calibrated hand. ;)

Seriously ... a cup filter wrench can be used if you have clearance.
 
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I just the get oil and filter from my A&P. Let him make a little bit on both, and then when I have a surprise mx issue, I'm usually front of the line. In the whole cost of flying and the 2 oil changes (every 50 hours) I do a year, the little bit he makes on the filter and oil is noise within the noise. I have a couple guys that still use oil burning heat, so I just ask them when they want it.
 
WDD said:
I see Amazon sells Oil Filter cutting tools for $30. Sporty's sells a Champion oil filter cutting tool for $250.

Anything besides the magic word "Airplane" would warrant the extra $220? Surely it's not just marketing........
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I used this one when I was cutting filters. Got it from Spruce and used to cost 59 bucks. I can use it one handed when chucked in a vise. Works great in one turn.
1cda051d-710d-4690-a526-cded9cdaf347.jpg

 
WDD said:
I’d have to add a quick turn drain to my list in addition to safety wire, safety wire pliers, drain pan/container, new filter wrench/cap, and a tool to cut open the oil filter. Shoot - I even need a torque wrench.

I have zero inventory right now of oil change tools. When I volunteer to help change oil for our club planes the club guy I work with has all the tools. In addition to his safety wire pliers and what not, he has a very nifty oil filter cutter to look at the filter paper.
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Gallon size ziplock bags. Cut the safety wire from the filter and remove. Use a 1" wrench or socket to loosen it. Put the bag over it and spin it off by hand so the bag catches the oil. A lot of guys will remove the starter to make filter access easier. I don't. Since the release of -1 filters about 20 years ago, the filter should be removable with starter in place. Do get a quick drain. Bottom cowl removal isn't necessary for an oil change. For the new filter? Place the safety wire on the adapter first and leave long. You'll only forget once because threading the wire with the filter in place is a pain. Install the new filter. It isn't required but I still lubricate the filter gasket with a little oil from the adapter. Some guys torque per specs but most tighten to contact and another 3/4 turn, me included. never a leak, never any problem with removal later. finish twisting the wire to the filter. Add new oil, reinstall the cowl, done.

My C-180 requires that I remove the cabin heat valve's cable block to get the filter out. I have to remember to test my heater valve function before re-cowling. I can't count how many times I've forgotten and later found I had no cabin heat because I replaced the block visually "where it was before" to find the cable jammed. Simple fix, but the top cowl has to come back off. Another thing you learn from experience.
 
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MRC01 said:
I have this one: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/oilfiltercutteraviation.php
That said, a cheap one may do just as good a job. The important thing is that it cuts open the filter cleanly without cutting or contaminating the filter pleats inside. For example, using a hacksaw may contaminate the filter pleats with metal dust from the filter canister.
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Auto racing suppliers (Summit, Pegasus, etc.) often have these at reasonable prices, and intended for the exact same use case.
 
Stewartb said:
Gallon size ziplock bags.
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I take an empty quart of oil container, leave the cap on, cut a wide side open and place it on the heater muff under against the firewall where the oil filter is mounted. Catch the oil in the cut open quart, and when I'm done with the oil change, I unscrew the cap and dump the oil into the 5 gallon jerrican I use for the used oil. Best part is, I can just leave it in the mouth of the jerrican and let it completely drain while I am away from the airport.
 
Stewartb said:
Gallon size ziplock bags. Cut the safety wire from the filter and remove. Use a 1" wrench or socket to loosen it. Put the bag over it and spin it off by hand so the bag catches the oil. A lot of guys will remove the starter to make filter access easier. I don't. Since the release of -1 filters about 20 years ago, the filter should be removable with starter in place. Do get a quick drain. Bottom cowl removal isn't necessary for an oil change. For the new filter? Place the safety wire on the adapter first and leave long. You'll only forget once because threading the wire with the filter in place is a pain. Install the new filter. It isn't required but I still lubricate the filter gasket with a little oil from the adapter. Some guys torque per specs but most tighten to contact and another 3/4 turn, me included. never a leak, never any problem with removal later. finish twisting the wire to the filter. Add new oil, reinstall the cowl, done.

My C-180 requires that I remove the cabin heat valve's cable block to get the filter out. I have to remember to test my heater valve function before re-cowling. I can't count how many times I've forgotten and later found I had no cabin heat because I replaced the block visually "where it was before" to find the cable jammed. Simple fix, but the top cowl has to come back off. Another thing you learn from experience.
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I also use gallon sized ziplock bags when I change my oil.
Both of my 0-320 have drip trays under the filter. I slide the bag under the drip tray and remove the filter with rag around it. Whatever runs down the drip trays goes into the bag. I empty the bag and have reusing it for years now.
This has got to be one the easiest filters to change. I just looked at old pictures, I transferred the drip tray from my old engine to the new one. So the replacement did not come with the drip tray.
8899dbeb-9265-4660-82d2-36cffd3d3262.jpg
 
Llewtrah381 said:
While I agree with the sentiment and am now wondering about the Challenger I have, neither article or anything else I’ve seen so far has offered up any data to show an actual difference. In fact, in 24 years and lots and lots of mowings, I have yet to change the oil filter in either my riding or push mower - because they don’t have one. Heck - I bet there are lots of mowers out there that rarely if ever get their oil changed (or maybe checked?) out there. This may be in the “lean while idling” category of discussion - not sure.

That said, now that Champions are available and affordable, I’ll probably switch back at the next overhaul.
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I sold my Cherokee 180 that still had the original oil screen. No filter. Was at 1700 hours from a 1993 overhaul.
 
Gary Ward said:
I also use gallon sized ziplock bags when I change my oil.
Both of my 0-320 have drip trays under the filter. I slide the bag under the drip tray and remove the filter with rag around it. Whatever runs down the drip trays goes into the bag. I empty the bag and have reusing it for years now.
This has got to be one the easiest filters to change. I just looked at old pictures, I transferred the drip tray from my old engine to the new one. So the replacement did not come with the drip tray.
8899dbeb-9265-4660-82d2-36cffd3d3262.jpg
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I've never seen a drip tray under the filter. Is that an "add on" or did that come with the engine?

FWIW - I'll be dealing with a Continental 0470 R on a Skylane. The oil changes I've done have been with the club's 172s.
 
Puppy pads work well to catch drips. They’re easy to fit in beneath it and wrap around, and designed to soak up liquids.
 
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EdFred said:
I take an empty quart of oil container, leave the cap on, cut a wide side open and place it on the heater muff under against the firewall where the oil filter is mounted. Catch the oil in the cut open quart, and when I'm done with the oil change, I unscrew the cap and dump the oil into the 5 gallon jerrican I use for the used oil. Best part is, I can just leave it in the mouth of the jerrican and let it completely drain while I am away from the airport.
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I've seen this trick before. Looks like this... (I've also heard the same can be done with half-gallon plastic milk jugs, which I think affords more overflow protection)
1755053104065.png
 
Through some weird quirk or maybe the vagaries of time I always need oil when visiting my brother haha
 
asicer said:
I've seen this trick before. Looks like this... (I've also heard the same can be done with half-gallon plastic milk jugs, which I think affords more overflow protection)
View attachment 143982
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I don't cut it that far down or on multiple sides. I just open up a wide side. It would still hold an entire quart of oil, which is way more that would be left in the filter.
 
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