F150

My car is pimpin'

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For some reason my plane is more popular with the ladies, though.
 
Jesse what is the story on the oil?

Why are the numbers high? Is this your first analysis?

What kind of oil are you running and what kind of air filter? The analysis shows high silicon (sand) this indicates you have an intake airleak after the filter. Take a good look at the intake air system, and switch to a good grade oil, semi synthetic.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/89/silicon-engine-oil
 
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Jesse, Im curious if something promted you so have your oil sampled? Like abnormal noise or the like? If this were the 5.4 3 valve engine I would say it is probably wiping a lobe off of the camshaft. But this is a 2 valve engine if its an 01 and they are usually pretty hearty. 131k isnt really "high" mileage either. If you decide to replace the engine you would be looking at about 3125.00 plus tax for the engine and about 13 hours labor. At the Ford dealer I work at you would be looking at about 4500.00 total.
 
see i told you the test would confirm it was a ford.
 
tonycondon said:
see i told you the test would confirm it was a ford.
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Now Tony........I have an 02 F150 4.6 with 275k that I drive to work everyday round trip 100 miles. An 04 Expedition with 165k and an 05 Taurus with 170k. They are all still in excellent shape and run great. Its Coke and Pepsi, Chocolate and vanilla etc....everybody makes pretty solid vehicles these days...just personal preference.
 
mikeinbama said:
Jesse, Im curious if something promted you so have your oil sampled? Like abnormal noise or the like? If this were the 5.4 3 valve engine I would say it is probably wiping a lobe off of the camshaft. But this is a 2 valve engine if its an 01 and they are usually pretty hearty. 131k isnt really "high" mileage either. If you decide to replace the engine you would be looking at about 3125.00 plus tax for the engine and about 13 hours labor. At the Ford dealer I work at you would be looking at about 4500.00 total.
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Just 4.5 AMU? That's a bargain for a new engine! Oh, wait, we're typing about a 10+ year old pick-up here.
 
mikeinbama said:
Now Tony........I have an 02 F150 4.6 with 275k that I drive to work everyday round trip 100 miles. An 04 Expedition with 165k and an 05 Taurus with 170k. They are all still in excellent shape and run great. Its Coke and Pepsi, Chocolate and vanilla etc....everybody makes pretty solid vehicles these days...just personal preference.
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oh i know but that won't stop me from giving my ford driving friends crap. Ol' Blue keeps on rolling at 268,000. Although I'm not sure what good an oil analysis would do considering the amount I have to add between oil changes ;)
 
Geico266 said:
Jesse what is the story on the oil?

Why are the numbers high? Is this your first analysis?

What kind of oil are you running and what kind of air filter? The analysis shows high silicon (sand) this indicates you have an intake airleak after the filter. Take a good look at the intake air system, and switch to a good grade oil, semi synthetic.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/89/silicon-engine-oil
Click to expand...
Oil is fully synthetic Mobil1 5W-20 and only had about 3,000 miles on it. Filter was a Bosch.

This is the first analysis since I've owned it. I've only had it for the 3,000 miles (I put new oil in it the day I bought it).

The filter in it was a disaster when I bought it and the intake was full of ****. I cleaned all that out.

At this point I'm just going to do another test in 2,500 miles and see what that reveals. Who knows how much residual crap might be in the engine that'll take a few changes to come out. It runs fine.

Right now it has Amsoil in it and a Wix filter. I'll post the next analysis.
 
mikeinbama said:
Jesse, Im curious if something promted you so have your oil sampled? Like abnormal noise or the like?
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Was just curious.

The only real "problem" with it that is obvious is a manifold leak since one of the nuts rusted off. It's not spitting out any soot though and is pretty small. No sensors being set off. My current plan is just to ignore that problem because it seems like you're opening up a huge can of worms trying to fix it.
 
mikeinbama said:
Very true. would double the value of the truck, however, that is a lot less than a new truck.
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And that reason is why my personal vehicle was built in 97. Drive'em 'til the wheels fall off.
 
Good call on the Wix filter; no one else can touch 'em.
 
SCCutler said:
Good call on the Wix filter; no one else can touch 'em.
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Really? WIX used to be mid-level at best unless the high end WIX filter was purchased. When did they improve?

For a Ford, go with a Motorcraft filter from a discount chain. They have (had anyway, maybe they've changed) as much filter area as anyone at a competitive price.
 
I never saw Wix selling a budget product; that was Fram territory. When I was in the parts business, we'd have a display where we'd cut open a Wix and a Fram, display 'em side by side. They sold themselves.
 
SCCutler said:
I never saw Wix selling a budget product; that was Fram territory. When I was in the parts business, we'd have a display where we'd cut open a Wix and a Fram, display 'em side by side. They sold themselves.
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I agree that comparing to Fram made most products look good. Wix on the other hand had good and bad. Of course I haven't been buying filters for commercial ops for many years. These days when asked (which isn't often) I just tell my guys to stick with OEM brands. They generally have motivation for unit longevity. There are exceptions but stick with major equipment brands and you'll usually do okay.
 
jesse said:
Oil is fully synthetic Mobil1 5W-20 and only had about 3,000 miles on it. Filter was a Bosch.
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Get that crap out of your engine, it's been nothing but problems since day one. They even had to take the aviation one off the market after they bought a crap load of engines. Guys used to go through a quart an hour thinking they needed cylinders, change their oil to normal oil and they're back down to a quart in 12. The crap never really worked out for me in any application I tried it in. The only thing the synthetics do better than fossil oil is reduce HP consumption at the oil pump, resist excessive heat your engine should never see, and drain your wallet faster. It will potentially save your bottom end if you blow a radiator hose and keep driving for another hour, but outside of that, the negatives of synthetics pretty much outweigh the positives in the current formulations.

Change the oil and filter with Castrol 20-50 and a Wix filter (CarQuest house brand is a top quality Wix filter rebranded) and drive it another 25,000 just topping it up and changing the filter now and then and see what your oil sample comes back after that.

Mobil 1 IMO is one of the biggest farces in the industry, but it's a hell of a money maker.
 
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Clark1961 said:
Really? WIX used to be mid-level at best unless the high end WIX filter was purchased. When did they improve?

For a Ford, go with a Motorcraft filter from a discount chain. They have (had anyway, maybe they've changed) as much filter area as anyone at a competitive price.
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It's not just about filter area, personally that's not a great issue. I've never had a catastrphic failure from a bit filter area issues. Where I have had catastrophic failure was with a Fram filter blowing its cardboard bulkhead and sucking the filter into a brand new $27,000 engine 2 minutes into its first dyno run. Luckily it was not my engine and it was an owner supplied filter (Fram sponsored him filters, yeah, that was a valuable sponsorship:rolleyes:).

Every Wix filter I ever cut open had a metal bulkhead. I've been using Wix filters in nearly all my engine and marine/industrial applications for 30 years and have never experienced a filter related failure in that time.

If you need ultra precise filtering to meet precision tolerance requirements then it may pay to seek out a better filter; that is not the situation the typical consumer is in. For them nearly any filtration tighter than a couple layers of gauze will be more than adequate. To them the assurance that the filter will not physically fail and destroy their engine is of a much greater concern, once they have that paid for, anything else is wasting money.
 
bah I am going through the same thing right now with my 2001 jeep. It burns oil and now I am hearing some sort of internal engine noise that sounds baaad
 
Henning said:
It's not just about filter area, personally that's not a great issue. I've never had a catastrphic failure from a bit filter area issues. Where I have had catastrophic failure was with a Fram filter blowing its cardboard bulkhead and sucking the filter into a brand new $27,000 engine 2 minutes into its first dyno run.
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I've seen filters blown off a couple times. Other than bad threads/base metal, the only way to do it is an overpressure which is related to pressure drop through the filter. Lots of flow area is good since it will reduce the pressure drop through the filter.
 
Clark1961 said:
I've seen filters blown off a couple times. Other than bad threads/base metal, the only way to do it is an overpressure which is related to pressure drop through the filter. Lots of flow area is good since it will reduce the pressure drop through the filter.
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The exterior did not separate or blow off, it was a failure of the internal bulkhead that separates the flow and serves as the retainer for the top of the filter medium. There was no over pressure issue, the cardboard bulkhead failed and allowed the paper filter medium to be run into the galleries to clog them.
 
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Henning said:
The exterior did not separate, it was a failure of the internal bulkhead that separates the flow and serves as the retainer for the top of the filter medium. There was no over pressure issue, the cardboard bulkhead failed and allowed the paper filter medium to be run into the galleries to clog them.
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I'm not questioning your description, I was 'splaining an different type of failure.
 
mikeinbama said:
If you decide to replace the engine you would be looking at about 3125.00 plus tax for the engine and about 13 hours labor. At the Ford dealer I work at you would be looking at about 4500.00 total.
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Clark1961 said:
Just 4.5 AMU? That's a bargain for a new engine! Oh, wait, we're typing about a 10+ year old pick-up here.
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I could help with savings on that... 4.6L VIN "W" engines for 01 F150 are about $1100 from me, 180-day warranty. add 10% to jump to 1yr, and additional 10% for each year beyond that.
 
AggieMike88 said:
I could help with savings on that... 4.6L VIN "W" engines for 01 F150 are about $1100 from me, 180-day warranty. add 10% to jump to 1yr, and additional 10% for each year beyond that.
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Growing up my buddies dad owned a junkyard (I use the term with respect, but sorry, it's the primacy thing lol, you'll always be a junkyard to me. BTW, I still can't walk by a stack of tires without relieving myself.;) ) Back in the 70s we were building race cars out of wrecks.
 
AggieMike88 said:
I could help with savings on that... 4.6L VIN "W" engines for 01 F150 are about $1100 from me, 180-day warranty. add 10% to jump to 1yr, and additional 10% for each year beyond that.
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I was thinking about that the other night when this thread started. But i had already logged off. He could buy it from you, pay shipping and labor, and still be cheaper than my engine alone. BTW Henning, you will get Mike upset by calling it a junk yard......I know.......
 
Henning said:
Get that crap out of your engine, it's been nothing but problems since day one. They even had to take the aviation one off the market after they bought a crap load of engines. Guys used to go through a quart an hour thinking they needed cylinders, change their oil to normal oil and they're back down to a quart in 12. The crap never really worked out for me in any application I tried it in. The only thing the synthetics do better than fossil oil is reduce HP consumption at the oil pump, resist excessive heat your engine should never see, and drain your wallet faster. It will potentially save your bottom end if you blow a radiator hose and keep driving for another hour, but outside of that, the negatives of synthetics pretty much outweigh the positives in the current formulations.

Change the oil and filter with Castrol 20-50 and a Wix filter (CarQuest house brand is a top quality Wix filter rebranded) and drive it another 25,000 just topping it up and changing the filter now and then and see what your oil sample comes back after that.

Mobil 1 IMO is one of the biggest farces in the industry, but it's a hell of a money maker.
Click to expand...
Mobil-1s issue with aviation engines is not an issue with an automotive engine.

An aviation engine has a bunch of lead, and that lead wasn't being removed effectively by the synthetic oil when people hardly flew their airplane and were doing long oil change intervals. It didn't help that people were running their engines so damn rich.

Since my truck isn't getting caked with tons of lead each oil change, has a really good filter, and isn't running ridiculously rich -- IMO it's better off with a superior lubricant which is what synthetic is.
 
mikeinbama said:
BTW Henning, you will get Mike upset by calling it a junk yard......I know.......
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*ahem* Auto Recycler :D We are trying to break that primacy of using the "J" word.

No offence taken, anyhow... we just have fun when customers ask, "Is this the junkyard on hwy 377?" by answering, "No, if you're wanting junk, you want the place down the road. But if you're calling for high quality recycled parts, we can help."

And I'm dropping my existing job title for a new one.... "Parts/Cash Conversion Specialist"
 
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