Paint Stripping

sferguson524 said:
i found that out the hard way stripping the old name off of my boat to prep for decals. that citristrip took the color out of the gelcoat
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Were you trying to remove old vinyl decals? I usually try several things I have on hand to get residue off, my go-to is WD40. Works really well on a lot of adhesive residues.
 
bnt83 said:
Were you trying to remove old vinyl decals? I usually try several things I have on hand to get residue off, my go-to is WD40. Works really well on a lot of adhesive residues.
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No, a painted on name and homeport. was pretty ****ed when i saw pink poking through :\
 
GlennAB1 said:
It looks like bolt head wear pattern on the gear, not round washer wear. Was there supposed to be washers under the bolt heads? Were the bolts shanked out?
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No nothing like that, much simpler, I simply did not insure the gear was seated on the shaft correctly. this was a new crank, and a new gear. the shaft was built to its maximum tolerance, and the gear to its minimum.
The gear got cocked during installation, took torque, got safetied, then straighten its self during operation which left the gear loose and the bolts failed just like the NTSB said.

MY Bad, I did not catch it during assembly. In all my years of building engines has this ever presented a problem. Still my Bad for not seeing it.
 
Tom-D said:
No nothing like that, much simpler, I simply did not insure the gear was seated on the shaft correctly. this was a new crank, and a new gear. the shaft was built to its maximum tolerance, and the gear to its minimum.
The gear got cocked during installation, took torque, got safetied, then straighten its self during operation which left the gear loose and the bolts failed just like the NTSB said.
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Sorry, I didn't see that explanation in the NTSB report. There's a reason why repair stations and airlines use a second set of eyes on critical tasks.
 
Crappy design in that it could even allow this assembly mistake to happen, especially given the poorly defined fatigue loading present in any cam drive system.

Although it isn't as bad as the Lycoming cam drive gear with it's single short center bolt and a bend-over lock tab. Safety wire lock tabs etc keep parts from falling into other areas (sometimes), but are not suitable for retention under fatigue. Only long bolts properly torqued - and NO lock washers are reliable for fatigue.
 
GlennAB1 said:
Sorry, I didn't see that explanation in the NTSB report. There's a reason why repair stations and airlines use a second set of eyes on critical tasks.
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It wasn't in the NTSB report, My PMI. TCM tech rep, and I studied the results and came up with the explanation. and before it gets jumped on, the TCM rep came up with the pretense.
 
Checkout_my_Six said:
so...maybe you don't know Bonanzas. I gots nothing special.
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I know enough about them to know I don't want to work on them..
really want to know what the aircraft skins are? Try this. put a drop of Alodine 1200 on a bare spot, then tell me what color it becomes.
 
Alodine, it self, is corrosive and should only be applied to aluminum... based on what you said, ill assume its not aluminum, so, was that good advice you gave?
 
Tom-D said:
I know enough about them to know I don't want to work on them..
really want to know what the aircraft skins are? Try this. put a drop of Alodine 1200 on a bare spot, then tell me what color it becomes.
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No...you clearly don't know what you're doing. o_O
 
My IA friend/coworker says Bonanza and Baron, either, might be aluminum or magnesium... then again he's not sure if it was pure magnesium or just an aluminum alloy with a higher magnesium content than most, like some 5XXX series.
 
GlennAB1 said:
My IA friend/coworker says Bonanza and Baron, either, might be aluminum or magnesium... then again he's not sure if it was pure magnesium or just an aluminum alloy with a higher magnesium content than most, like some 5XXX series.
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the older models have more magnesium. Mine is a 69.
 
When you really want to know, look it up in the structural repair manual for the aircraft.
 
Tom-D said:
When you really want to know, look it up in the structural repair manual for the aircraft.
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Of course that won't rule out someone before you doing something like replacing 6061 with 2024 or some other such nonsense.
 
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