New Car Suggestions?

[FORANE]

Why did you put the Topkick motor in it?

Got a good price on a very low miles motor.

 

[JoseCuervo]

Got a good price on a very low miles motor.

Does it make sense with the lower mileage efficiency and the high costs of diesel?

You are getting 30-40% worse economy???


And, by the way, it seems like most people who claim good diesel mpg are a bit generous with their math.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FORANE]

Does it make sense with the lower mileage efficiency and the high costs of diesel?

You are getting 30-40% worse economy???


And, by the way, it seems like most people who claim good diesel mpg are a bit generous with their math.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't foresee the big hit to MPG's. Hindsight and all that...
Upside is have a beast of a truck capable of hauling anything I ask of it. Also, I typically only drive the truck about 4 days a month so my miles driven are low. This makes it work for me.

Agree that some claim more than likely. A friend had a 2007 ( I think) Dodge 2500 5.9 cummins which displayed the MPG's on the overhead console. It would show MPG's around 22 on the highway. Impressed by that I bought a 2006 Dodge 3500 5.9 cummins 4x4 quad cab. It too would display MPGs on the console. I discovered the console readout was not accurate. The Dodge I owned also only got about 10 mpgs around town. At best I saw about 16 mpgs on the highway driving like a little old lady on the way to church.

 

[Alexb2000]

Does it make sense with the lower mileage efficiency and the high costs of diesel?

You are getting 30-40% worse economy???


And, by the way, it seems like most people who claim good diesel mpg are a bit generous with their math.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 2004 Duramax pre-emmissions (LLY) that gets very good mileage for a 3/4 ton 4X4 (16-20 empty), but your point about the fuel price delta is exactly correct in my mind. If I were buying a new GM pickup today I would get the 6.2 gas just like my Denali. With active fuel management it gets 19-20 highway at 70, which would be like getting 26ish in a diesel in terms of dollars.

 

[docmirror]

I bought the kids each a new Prius C. I couldn't be happier with them. My son has ~40k on his and it runs flawless, not a bit of trouble. My daughter has 28k on hers, and zero problems. Both are getting +50MPG average and they use a lot of AC. No belts, 5 airbags, quiet for a small car and good utility with the large hatch in back.

I would buy another new one, or for all the new car haters, they were first built in 2012, just get a 2 YO model. Fantastic car for economy.

 

[FormerHangie]

I have a Fusion as well. Mine is a 2014, and has the plug in hybrid drivetrain. Out of all the mid size sedans, the Mazda 6 is the sportiest, followed closely by the Fusion. I would put the Honda somewhere in the middle in driving characterisics, and the Camry as well, since it has been upgraded. To me, the Nissan and the Korean twins are more biased towards ride quality and are less responsive. I have no experience with the Malibu.

If you feel that the Civic is a little too small, you can move up to one of one the midsizers for not a lot of extra money. I'm of the "buy and hold" philosophy with cars, I always buy new and keep them a minimum of eight years, the last two ten and 12 years for mine. I don't like my wife driving an older car so she goes no more than eight. I'm not sure you save much more keeping a car much longer than that. If you can buy a year old car that's what you want and get it for 15% or more less than you can buy the same new car, that's a good deal, but it's my observation that outside of an ex-rental, you won't find that. If you don't mind a fairly base model car then the ex-rental may be a good way to go, especially if you don't mind a few scratches and dings.

It's been my observation that the largest determinant on what you'll be paying for your car, exclusive of fuel, is what the original purchase price was. Expensive cars cost a lot in terms of depreciation, maintenance, and repairs, modestly priced cars do not.

 

[HighFlyingA380]

Thanks for all the insight. I've still got a couple weeks of test-driving and research to do, but this definitely helps narrow my focus.

 

[SCCutler]

I have a Jensen Interceptor II that is a joy to drive, when the got dammed electrical issues are fixed, but the little 65 Pony car is still more fun.

And the Pony wins on turning heads.

The Interceptor may be one of the most appealing cars ever crafted. Enjoy it well, since I cannot!

 

[kyleb]

I'm in the market for a new car, and looking for suggestions based on your experiences. I'm looking to pay under 20k.

Right now, the top of my list is a Honda Civic. While it's a bit smaller than I'd prefer, the price isn't bad and the maintenance track-record is quite good. It was my mechanics top choice.

Others on my watch-list include (in no particular order):
Hundai Sonata
Nissan Sentra
Nissan Altima
Honda Accord
Ford Fusion

How long are you going to keep the vehicle?

If you only plan on keeping it a few years, I'd buy used and I'd buy Honda. If you plan to keep it for 10 years, I'd buy new and I'd buy Honda. I'm on my second Accord and between the two, I've put 450k miles on the two of 'em over the last 17 years. There have been exactly 2 unscheduled maintenance items on the cars over that period - one catalytic converter (replaced for <$200 with an aftermarket unit) and one failed door latch ($500 fix because of how/when it failed). Otherwise, gas, oil, filters, plugs, tires, and brakes, lather, rinse, repeat.

Everything I hear about the Kias and Hyundais is good and that interests me, but they have not been mainstream long enough to build the kind of durability record Honda is known for. But I'm paying attention.

Subaru's are nice, but the AWD creates some issues, like if you need to replace one tire, you have to replace all 4 (or have the new one shaved to match the diameter of the other three). Also, your mileage suffers. But you do have AWD if you need it.

My problem with domestic makes is that they just seem to turn to dust after 5-10 years, particularly the interiors. I keep my cars for a long time and expect them to look decent after 10 years and 250K miles.

 

[MtnMarcus]

Define lots. Burning it is normal, leaking it isn't. My A4 with the 2.8 would take maybe 1/2 to 1 quart between oil changes, but it depended on how I drove it. The S4 with the 4.2 will sometimes take none, or take a quart between oil changes. Again, just in how I drive it.

Around a quart every 1000K

 

[SoonerAviator]

Ford Fusion.

Noise harmonics vibration (NHV), Ride quality, and fit and finish of build quality are important to me. I'm not going to keep it past 150k miles either.

Nothing on that list meets these requirements. Hynduai gets the price award, Honda gets the reliability, and the Nissan has some nice features and power but not in the <20k base model -- it's strickly fleet vehicle territory.

A Altima is nice, but the base model is too stripped quality wise and features to get to your price point.

That leaves the accord as the other option. The "quality" is there, it will last longer than the rest, but lots of hard plastics and a fairly harsh suspension when it comes to ride quality. I can't stand the ride quality.

So, for the base, stripped model (<$20k) price point winner of a full size sedan, I'd take the fusion off the rent a car lot any day before the others.

Ford makes some things that suck (Focus comes to mind), but the fusion is a real winner.

Having rented over 200 car days in the last 4 years, I've driven just about anything.

+1. I've rented most of those vehicles over the past 2-3 years. I usually have it for a week, and rent 1-2 weeks a month for business travel. The Ford Fusion wins in this list for bang for the buck. I can't speak as to the durability of the EcoBoost stuff, not having owned them for long, but they ride/drive really well and have a ton of features. The Altima is another good vehicle, but I actually prefer the Fusion, personally. The nicer Altimas (I'd only get the 3.5L version) can get pricey for the same trim level in an Accord/Fusion. There isn't anything "wrong" with an Accord, but it's just typically a boring vehicle to me, and I don't feel that it is any more durable than the Altima/Fusion at this point. Honda/Toyota don't have the advantage they used to enjoy as far as the reliability is concerned.

The Chevy Malibu/Cruz/etc suck, don't waste your time, and the Dodge products in that size aren't good, either.

 

[SoonerAviator]

Glad you're happy. I have briefly owned a couple of Shelby Mustangs ('66 GT350 and '68 GT500KR Convert) and have raced a Showroom Stock Mustang. In the context of cars that I have owned, including a Lotus Elan, a couple of Porsches, and currently an RX8, the Mustangs are pigs that will neither go around corners nor stop. Reasonably fun in a straight line, yes, but nothing like a Jensen Interceptor or a real 289 Cobra --- both of which I have also owned. Sorry for the OT excursion.

Lol, apples and oranges there, friend. I'll put the 2010 Mustang GT up against your RX-8 on a track and see who turns in the better times. The RX-8 was underpowered as could be, especially considering its RX-7 roots. The Mustang (or Camaro, or Challenger, etc) was never meant to compete with Porsche, and was less than a third of the cost of a Porsche 911 or Lotus, so of course there would be marked differences. The joy in the old muscle is more for nostalgia and the sound, than for sheer road performance. Pull up to a car show in a 1970 Porsche and then pull up in a 1970 'Cuda and see which draws more attention/admiration.

 

[Ghery]

Until something breaks, and it will. Audi (VW), MB, Rover and BMW are cars you don't keep past the bumper to bumper.

Id stay away from Ford products, shy if of the GT, they are soft cars and don't stand up to time like Subaru, Honda, Toyota, Vette, etc.

I always thought FORD stood for "Found On Road Dead" and other such things. Then I bought a 1988 1/2 Escort and ran it for years. The only mistake I made on that car was buying the extended warranty. Never used it. I now have a 2013 Ford Escape. Pushing 28,000 miles in 18 months and it runs great. Other than routine maintenance the only reason it has been in the shop was a recall (with another pending). I do buy cars new, but I keep them a long time, too. My 1999 Jeep Wrangler has over 185,000 miles on the clock and got relegated to secondary status only because my wife was having increasing trouble getting in an out of it. My son has it for now as his 1999 Ford Mustang is useless when it snows (which does happen a few times each winter here). My wife's 2006 Jeep Commander has over 125,000 miles on it and is running strong. No plans to even think about replacing it.

I had a Subaru years (decades) ago. A 1974. I hope they've finally learned how to build the engine so it doesn't blow head gaskets. Mine had to be replaced every 50,000 miles and that meant a complete tear down of the engine. Sleeved cylinders sitting on crush washers that had to be replaced any time the heads were pulled. Oops.

Of course, you could go the way my original CFI did. He'd buy the best car he could for $2000 and if it lasted a year he was happy. His annual cost of ownership was better than most people who bought new. And he typically was driving a Cadillac.

 

[FORANE]

I had a Subaru years (decades) ago. A 1974. I hope they've finally learned how to build the engine so it doesn't blow head gaskets. Mine had to be replaced every 50,000 miles

The H6 Subaru motor does not have a propensity to blow head gaskets; it is very rare even with 250k miles. Also, the H6 motor has a timing chain with no recommended replacement interval unlike the H4 motors with a rubber timing belt and its corresponding 100k recommended replacement interval.

 

[zaitcev]

NEVER buy a new car, that's for suckers.

Subarus are great, much better engineering compared to Hondas and Toyotas.

If you're buying a GM product, you're looking at a big diesel truck, Vette or a camaro, rest is crap

Oh god, it's like The Internet in one succint post

 

[TazzyTazzy]

The Mazda 3 has sportier handling than the Civic or Corolla, which are comparable in size. Its engine is efficient, too.

We bought a Mazda 3 for a commuter car 6 weeks ago and have about 3500 miles on it. It's a fun little car, and seems bigger on the inside than the outside. We find ourselves wanting to drive this car around town instead of our more comfy car because it's so fun. It's sporty, handles well, and just pure fun to drive. It's getting about 39-41 MPG, highway traffic, not during traffic hour (6am - 6pm)

This is a 2 year car for us before being given to my partner's kid sister when she turns 18.

Don't get the S model - it has rubber band tires for a harsher ride, along with stiffer suspension....unless you want a more sports model. We wanted a slightly more softer ride but still fun to drive.

We test drove the Honda Civic and Toyota Corolla (and ran away), and sat in a ford fusion before making our decision.

 

[airdale]

... I'll put the 2010 Mustang GT up against your RX-8 on a track and see who turns in the better times.

The original comment was on a Mustang that fell off the road trying to keep up with a car that handled. Actually on short road tracks I might well beat your Mustang but on a long track like Road America I would probably only have you in sight for part of the first lap. But from turn 3 through the carousel I would be having a lot more fun than you would.

The RX-8 was underpowered as could be

Underpowered for what? As a street car it really has more power than I need. Ditto more gears. A six-speed is a silly transmission for the street but Marketing demands it.

The joy in the old muscle is more for nostalgia and the sound, than for sheer road performance.

I couldn't agree more. My Morris Minor woody wagon turned heads too, also not because of its performance!

 

[SoonerAviator]

The original comment was on a Mustang that fell off the road trying to keep up with a car that handled. Actually on short road tracks I might well beat your Mustang but on a long track like Road America I would probably only have you in sight for part of the first lap. But from turn 3 through the carousel I would be having a lot more fun than you would.
Underpowered for what? As a street car it really has more power than I need. Ditto more gears. A six-speed is a silly transmission for the street but Marketing demands it.
I couldn't agree more. My Morris Minor woody wagon turned heads too, also not because of its performance!

I realize what your point was in the comparison, I was just stating that the two vehicles (a Mustang and a Porshe/Lotus) are too different to really be compared. Might as well have been discussing fuel efficiency of a F-150 and a Kenworth. For the record, I don't own a Mustang but have driven several GT's of every major body style. The handling isn't that far off from an RX-8, especially with the bigger car/extra weight and they have ample power to make up for it coming out of a turn and going down the straight. Now, if we're talking pre-2004 Mustangs and Camaros, I'd agree with you. Great strip cars, but they were all but worthless on a track.

The RX-8 was underpowered for a sports car built in the mid/late-2000's, especially when keeping with the lineage of it's name. The RX-8 was to be competing with things like Mustangs and 350Z's, etc, but didn't have the power to do it. The RX-7 had ~275HP if I recall correctly, and they followed it up with 220HP? Booo, hiss! I don't argue that it handled decently, but it's definitely not keeping up with the late-model Mustang/Camaros/370Z's which have 300+HP and have advanced the handling side of it quite a bit.

Everyone loves a woody.

 

[Bill]

For the record, I don't own a Mustang but have driven several GT's of every major body style. The handling isn't that far off from an RX-8, especially with the bigger car/extra weight and they have ample power to make up for it coming out of a turn

but it's definitely not keeping up with the late-model Mustang/Camaros/370Z's which have 300+HP and have advanced the handling side of it quite a bit.

An interesting track test drive of a late model Mustang GT 5.0 with track pack. Comments section is mostly interesting as well.

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/06/review-2013-ford-mustang-gt-track-tested/

 

[Henning]

This is reassuring. I have a 2010 A4 with 120K on it, and it is starting to burn lots of oil! the Quattro really decreases tire longevity too. Love the car though.

How hard are you driving? If you are complaining about tire longevity I am suspecting you drive pretty hard so yeah, you'll pull some extra oil when you shut down the throttle at high rpm, especially if you use down shift braking. As long as you aren't smoking or filling the oil and checking the gas as service stations, likely what you are experiencing is normal.

If my assumption is incorrect and you are Joe slow traffic driver and you are still using significant amounts of oil, you likely have a problem with valve guides or rings depending on when you see smoke. Any smoke indicates you have a problem.

 

[murphey]

NEVER buy a new car, that's for suckers.

Subarus are great, much better engineering compared to Hondas and Toyotas.

If you're buying a GM product, you're looking at a big diesel truck, Vette or a camaro, rest is crap

Dad sold both Fords and Chevys. Every time I said I wanted a 'vette, he reminded me that 1) it's a ticket magnet, even under the speed limit and 2) it's got a plastic body.

 

[SoonerAviator]

Dad sold both Fords and Chevys. Every time I said I wanted a 'vette, he reminded me that 1) it's a ticket magnet, even under the speed limit and 2) it's got a plastic body.

Lol. Tickets only issued when you are breaking the law (in general). Actually, most of the 'Vettes I see are driven by grey-hairs who are obeying traffic laws so I rarely see the them pulled over. The fiberglass bodies used to be an expensive item to repair, but it's all pretty much built the same way these days. The thing that really got you were the C3 models with the one-piece front fascia and fenders or C4 models where the fenders and hood were one-piece, which meant a minor fender bender meant a replacement of the whole thing $$$.

Still the best bang for your buck, which is why you can't swing a dead cat without seeing one. Hard not to drool at a '67 w/427. Even the '65 with the 365HP/327 and M-22 was a fun ride to tool around in.

 

[Anthony]

Trabant.




/thread

 

[James331]

I had a Subaru years (decades) ago. A 1974. I hope they've finally learned how to build the engine so it doesn't blow head gaskets. Mine had to be replaced every 50,000 miles and that meant a complete tear down of the engine. Sleeved cylinders sitting on crush washers that had to be replaced any time the heads were pulled. Oops.

That was probably due to poor/incorrect maintenance, or you bought the thig already F'd up and never ran a compression check before you bought the thing. Did you use OEM thermostats and replace them per the scheduled intervals?

Oh god, it's like The Internet in one succint post

....Ok. Meaning what exactly?

Dad sold both Fords and Chevys. Every time I said I wanted a 'vette, he reminded me that 1) it's a ticket magnet, even under the speed limit and 2) it's got a plastic body.

I like the glass body, its far superior to cheap sheet metal if you don't hit things, and if you're buying a vette you shoul be able to avoid playing bumper cars, its also not that bad to fix if you know how to work with glass. I have yet to even curb a wheel on mine. And for the tickets, just got to know when and where to open her up. Normally cops don't illegally pull over higher end cars for nothing, its not fun for them to pull that crap with folks who can cause troubles in their career.


I bought and sold cars when I was younger, it was how I paid for a good chunk of my flight training.

 

[Henning]

I didn't foresee the big hit to MPG's. Hindsight and all that...
Upside is have a beast of a truck capable of hauling anything I ask of it. Also, I typically only drive the truck about 4 days a month so my miles driven are low. This makes it work for me.

Agree that some claim more than likely. A friend had a 2007 ( I think) Dodge 2500 5.9 cummins which displayed the MPG's on the overhead console. It would show MPG's around 22 on the highway. Impressed by that I bought a 2006 Dodge 3500 5.9 cummins 4x4 quad cab. It too would display MPGs on the console. I discovered the console readout was not accurate. The Dodge I owned also only got about 10 mpgs around town. At best I saw about 16 mpgs on the highway driving like a little old lady on the way to church.

97 Dodge 5.9 ( last of the mechanical injector 2 valve motors) with 2wd, 5 speed manual and 3:54 gears. 250,000+ miles my mileage never changed. 23 mpg on the highway light truck if I kept it to 65mph. At 75 I got 21 mpg and that was my typical run light speed. If I was towing an airplane on a flatbed I would get 17mpg, 16 if it's a heavy one in the mountains. If I was towing a low profile travel trailer or 5th wheel 28' or less I would get 15 or 16 respectively. With a high profile trailer 32'+ I would get 13 or 14. If I was towing my 50'*12' hay trailer fully loaded down to Dallas-Ft Worth I got 12 and that was the worst that truck ever saw.

4x4 eats 4 mpg, automatic eats 2 mpg, 4.10 gears eat 3mpg, 4.56 gears eat 4-5mpg over the 2wd, 5 speed, 3.54 gear model.

 

[FORANE]

97 Dodge 5.9 ( last of the mechanical injector 2 valve motors) with 2wd, 5 speed manual and 3:54 gears. 250,000+ miles my mileage never changed. 23 mpg on the highway light truck if I kept it to 65mph. At 75 I got 21 mpg and that was my typical run light speed. If I was towing an airplane on a flatbed I would get 17mpg, 16 if it's a heavy one in the mountains. If I was towing a low profile travel trailer or 5th wheel 28' or less I would get 15 or 16 respectively. With a high profile trailer 32'+ I would get 13 or 14. If I was towing my 50'*12' hay trailer fully loaded down to Dallas-Ft Worth I got 12 and that was the worst that truck ever saw.

4x4 eats 4 mpg, automatic eats 2 mpg, 4.10 gears eat 3mpg, 4.56 gears eat 4-5mpg over the 2wd, 5 speed, 3.54 gear model.

Yes, I have a buddy with the older 5.9 Cummins 4x4 extra cab or whatever name they used for the slightly larger than single cab they had back then. He gets 20 plus mpg's. That is great for the size truck. It even tempted me to buy an older truck but I have a 16.5k fifth wheel to haul occasionally and figured that truck just wouldn't be up to the job. It also seemed to me that the rest of the Dodge wasn't built as strong as the Chevy.

I am not sure what rear end my Chevy has but when I let off the throttle it feels like the brakes are being slammed on; I figure it is the rear end.

 

[MtnMarcus]

How hard are you driving? If you are complaining about tire longevity I am suspecting you drive pretty hard so yeah, you'll pull some extra oil when you shut down the throttle at high rpm, especially if you use down shift braking. As long as you aren't smoking or filling the oil and checking the gas as service stations, likely what you are experiencing is normal.

If my assumption is incorrect and you are Joe slow traffic driver and you are still using significant amounts of oil, you likely have a problem with valve guides or rings depending on when you see smoke. Any smoke indicates you have a problem.

It is all highway driving so pretty mellow. Tires hit wear bars at around 25 - 30K. Les Schwab says they see that a lot with Audi's. My wife drives an Audi Q5 and goes thru tires seemingly faster than usual also. Maybe Toyo brand tires just suck. I wouldn't know cause that is all we have ever used on these cars?

As far as oil, no smoking yet. Idaho and Utah have recently raised all highway speeds to 80mph so setting the cruise at 85 is commonplace which i'm sure contributes. That's the department of the obvious, but it sure seems excessive.

 

[TheTraveler]

It is all highway driving so pretty mellow. Tires hit wear bars at around 25 - 30K. Les Schwab says they see that a lot with Audi's. My wife drives an Audi Q5 and goes thru tires seemingly faster than usual also. Maybe Toyo brand tires just suck. I wouldn't know cause that is all we have ever used on these cars?

As far as oil, no smoking yet. Idaho and Utah have recently raised all highway speeds to 80mph so setting the cruise at 85 is commonplace which i'm sure contributes. That's the department of the obvious, but it sure seems excessive.

My experience after four brands of tires across two Audi's: the Goodyears were the best for playing and having fun, but wore out the fastest (although they wore well and evenly). The Continentals lasted the longest, wore perfectly, and still do pretty well in terms of playing around.

 

[Jimmy cooper]

I've had good luck with toyota and Honda and drove them hard over 100,000. I also hear very good reports from Mazda owners. ( 2) after one hundred thou I get really sick of a car and it's gotta go.

 

[Henning]

It is all highway driving so pretty mellow. Tires hit wear bars at around 25 - 30K. Les Schwab says they see that a lot with Audi's. My wife drives an Audi Q5 and goes thru tires seemingly faster than usual also. Maybe Toyo brand tires just suck. I wouldn't know cause that is all we have ever used on these cars?

As far as oil, no smoking yet. Idaho and Utah have recently raised all highway speeds to 80mph so setting the cruise at 85 is commonplace which i'm sure contributes. That's the department of the obvious, but it sure seems excessive.

That's pretty normal for all season radials. The oil consumption is excessive under those conditions. As for 80-85, that is the 130kph speed that is the standard in Europe outside Germany where it disappears and people cruise that car 220kph+

 

[Mason]

Thanks for all the insight. I've still got a couple weeks of test-driving and research to do, but this definitely helps narrow my focus.

Take a close look at Nissans. A 1 or 2 year old Altima is in your budget, or a new Sentra. I am extremely happy with my 2014 Versa, which may be smaller than you are looking for, but I am a big guy 6'4" and I fit in it nicely. I am getting around 40mpg. The car is loaded with lots of tech including nav, sat radio, and power everything.

 

[Henning]

Take a close look at Nissans. A 1 or 2 year old Altima is in your budget, or a new Sentra. I am extremely happy with my 2014 Versa, which may be smaller than you are looking for, but I am a big guy 6'4" and I fit in it nicely. I am getting around 40mpg. The car is loaded with lots of tech including nav, sat radio, and power everything.

I've rented the Versa a couple of times now, what is up with that slush o matic transmission?

 

[SCCutler]

I've rented the Versa a couple of times now, what is up with that slush o matic transmission?

Nissan has the CVT, which works well, from what I am told, but the dynamics of it do not suit my preferences. I have heard that they are a little more prone to failure, but that may be old information. Nissans seem reasonably well crafted.

 

[James331]

I've always been prone to manual transmissions. My first plane was a stick, my current car is a stick, always worked great for me.

 

[Henning]

Nissan has the CVT, which works well, from what I am told, but the dynamics of it do not suit my preferences. I have heard that they are a little more prone to failure, but that may be old information. Nissans seem reasonably well crafted.

It's weird to drive effectively because it doesn't really shift.

 

[TheTraveler]

Nissan has the CVT, which works well, from what I am told, but the dynamics of it do not suit my preferences. I have heard that they are a little more prone to failure, but that may be old information. Nissans seem reasonably well crafted.

Wife has a 2008 Rogue with the CVT.

It drives fine, but takes some getting used to, and it's fine for her. She loves it. I, on the other hand, hate it, and will buy her a non-CVT for her next vehicle.

It did blow up once. Nissan replaced it free of charge, extended the warranty for the entire vehicle, so they treated us right. No concerns there.

Get on the highway and after about an hour or two at 80+, with a good headwind, or if the temp is over 75, and that tranny makes a constant whining noise, while feeling like it's "slipping" all the time. It keeps going, but it is really annoying. To keep this from happening you've got to slow it down and take it easy. Cruising along at max of 77/78 mph with moderate temps and you can move along just fine for hours and hours. If you've got a pretty nasty headwind, even an hour at 60mph will make it start whining.

When it gets really hot (90+) and you decide to go for a trip, you've only got a max of two hours before it needs a break. It'll get real loud, start losing power, and get real sluggish if you don't stop and let it rest.

For her and the driving she does, it's fine until it's dead. But this will be the last CVT for us.

 

[RJM62]

Trabant.




/thread

There are many Trabant engines powering ultralights, mainly in Eastern Europe, but also a few here. After the Berlin Wall fell (but before the cars started becoming collectors' items), many "Trabi" were offered for free to anyone who would cart them away, and many more were simply abandoned on the sides of roads throughout Western Europe. The cars had almost no scrap value due to their composite bodies and the surplus of existing parts inventory. The cars had been pretty much unchanged for decades.

The 2-stroke, 2-cycle Trabant engines had long been used as ultralight powerplants in Eastern Europe, and had a smaller following in the West, due to their weight, power curve, ubiquity, reputation for reliability, easy maintenance, and availability of replacement parts. After the Berlin Wall fell, they also became available for free or on the dirt cheap to anyone who wanted one (provided, in most cases, that they took the rest of the car with it).

As for the cars themselves, my friends from Eastern Europe usually chuckle when I ask about them. Perhaps it's nostalgia on their parts, but most of them don't think the Trabi were bad cars at all. They certainly were cheap, uninspired, underpowered, painfully-boring, and sparsely-equipped; and their 2-cycle engines generated dense, smoky exhaust. But they also were exceptionally durable, usually leaving service only when they were totaled in a crash rather than for mechanical reasons. Apparently it was very common for these cars to still be on the road at 20 or 30 years old.

The mass abandonment of Trabant cars after the Wall fell surely represented a desire on the parts of former East Germans to be rid of all things that reminded them of the Communist regime they were leaving behind, not just a disdain for the cars themselves. They were available for the cost of shipping right after the wall fell, but they have appreciated rapidly as they've become collector's items. The last one I glanced at (merely out of curiosity) was selling for $6,500.00.

Rich

 

[Gucci Pilot]

Was in the same boat a few months ago. Went with the Honda Accord and I love it.

 

[Ghery]

That was probably due to poor/incorrect maintenance, or you bought the thig already F'd up and never ran a compression check before you bought the thing. Did you use OEM thermostats and replace them per the scheduled intervals?

Nice. I bought it NEW and maintained it per the manual. We're talking head gaskets here. They lasted about 50,000 miles and then started leaking. Once oil, another time coolant. Ready for its third when I sold it to a former Subaru mechanic who should have known better.

I will say that tune-ups, oil changes and valve adjustments were dead simple on that thing. Everything was out in the open and easy to get to. Good thing with those older cars needing a tune-up every 12,000 miles or so.

 

[HighFlyingA380]

Update: So I went by the Ford dealer yesterday to test drive an Accord to compare to the Civic which I've already tried (and to shamelessly get the free gift-card offer). I was needing to accelerate my searching, as my current car just crapped-out on the way back from work the other day. Once I found out that the back seats of the Civic did indeed fold down (so I can fit my rifle cases which is a must), I decided the Civic was the way to go. Found a salesman who seemed to be into my kind of no-bull**** mentality. In about a half-hour, we shook on a deal for only $200 over my low-ball offer. And since I'm gonna be out of town for the next week for work, we also agreed to date the paperwork and pick it up on Jan. 2nd, so I can avoid paying the $600-ish personal property tax for 2015.

And now I get to which vanity plate to do... (A buddy just added another good suggestion of "ILS PRM")

Whichever one I go with, it's gonna go on the Gadsden specialty plate: