[NA] OPDII auto code scanners

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Touchdown! Greaser!
Joined
Feb 23, 2005
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west Texas
Display Name
Dave Taylor
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Send one which:
-gives good detail on where/what the error is, not "yeah your engine is sick" (but I'm not ready to spend $500 on one)
-compatible (ie the physical connection, I'm thinking) with older models (mine is a 2003 Tundra with a sudden engine roughness/rumble at all rpms)
-I don't mind the bluetooth/dongle/app thing
Thanks!
wish my old friend well.
 
I use an OBDlink MX Bluetooth adapter with Android apps specifically made for BMW motorcycles and another app with an in-app purchase to get the data and codes for Toyota/Lexus vehicles. Strangely, there are a lot more good OBD apps for Android than iOS for some reason. I keep an old Samsung phone in my tool bag just to run the OBD scanners. The app that comes with OBDlink has vehicle-specific add-ons as in-app purchases for all the major brands and models.

If you don't have access to an Android device, be careful buying the OBD adapter since many of them must be the WiFi version to work with iOS reader apps. Also, make sure the OBD adapter can both send and receive 8-bit data. Many of the cheap ones can read, but not write back, if you are trying to clear a code or set a new date.
 
I have been trying to decide if I should buy one and which one might actually be helpful for my situation.
2001 Corolla, shows P0171 Bank 1 Lean about once a week during the summer, no errors during the winter. Seems to only occur with a few minutes after starting and usually (but not always ) when warm (from running recently). Seems like if I let it idle a minute or two before driving I don't get it either.
Mostly it is easier/cheaper to just reset it once a week when it happens and keep driving.

Brian
 
I have been trying to decide if I should buy one and which one might actually be helpful for my situation.
2001 Corolla, shows P0171 Bank 1 Lean about once a week during the summer, no errors during the winter. Seems to only occur with a few minutes after starting and usually (but not always ) when warm (from running recently). Seems like if I let it idle a minute or two before driving I don't get it either.
Mostly it is easier/cheaper to just reset it once a week when it happens and keep driving.

Brian
I have seen that one be a dirty mass airflow sensor. I just took the intake off and sprayed the hell out of it with carb cleaner.
 
The codes follow a standardized system with basic fault codes; like those related to emissions and engine performance, can be read by any compliant scanner regardless of vehicle make. Keep in mind manufacturers build on this by adding their own proprietary codes that provide deeper diagnostics to systems unique to their components. Universal scanners can access common codes but may miss or only partially interpret manufacturer codes.

I have seen that one be a dirty mass airflow sensor. I just took the intake off and sprayed the hell out of it with carb cleaner.

How many have fallen prey to the dealer doing the same thing and charging $200 for it. :mad:
 
I got one of these a couple years ago. It works, but it won’t dig way down into diagnostics like a $1500 scanner. If you just want to scan and clear codes, it’s good enough.

The interface is on my iPhone.

To use it, scan the VIN barcode on the door post sticker, or manually enter it. It will remember each vehicle so you only need to do this once. Then it can read the vehicle specific codes.

 
I got one of these a couple years ago. It works, but it won’t dig way down into diagnostics like a $1500 scanner. If you just want to scan and clear codes, it’s good enough.

The interface is on my iPhone.

To use it, scan the VIN barcode on the door post sticker, or manually enter it. It will remember each vehicle so you only need to do this once. Then it can read the vehicle specific codes.

Yeah, we've tried a few and the blue driver is our favorite. It works well. I have one in most of our vehicles.
 
Yeah, we've tried a few and the blue driver is our favorite. It works well. I have one in most of our vehicles.
All my neighbors know I have it. My problem is that it can read codes, but troubleshooting is still my weak point. Just because there’s a code, there may be a cascade of things where one thing causes another error. So I have to not fall into the trap of throwing parts at a problem without knowing exactly why the code appeared.
 
All my neighbors know I have it. My problem is that it can read codes, but troubleshooting is still my weak point. Just because there’s a code, there may be a cascade of things where one thing causes another error. So I have to not fall into the trap of throwing parts at a problem without knowing exactly why the code appeared.

Yeah. A good example of this are the various misfire codes, lean banks, etc. Just use the typical air, fuel, spark confirmations to find the exact cause.
 
is any code reader likely to tell me my rough running engine is sparkplug v coil v injector?
 
is any code reader likely to tell me my rough running engine is sparkplug v coil v injector?
Depends on the reader and vehicle. For example, my reader app with the Nissan module could identify coils, sensors and other electronic components pretty well. Plugs vs. Coil requires moving the coils between cylinders to see if the error moves.

On my wife’s Dodge, codes were much more generic and it missed a bad coil pack.

On my BMW, the app is really powerful, allowing a lot of control and diagnostics. For example, I can activate the brake ABS module to cycle and help bleed the brakes, set mtce nags (BMW LOVES the service required light) way into the future.
 
is any code reader likely to tell me my rough running engine is sparkplug v coil v injector?

Sparkplug vs coil, probably not.
Some cars are smart enough to report a high side/low side circuit fault for a coil, which would then point to a potential coil/coil driver issue.
For a hard misfire the computer usually shuts down the injector to prevent an cat overheating and oil dilution, so you can't tell if it's lacking spark or fuel.

Replace plug/swap coil from good cylinder, if the problem doesn't follow look at the injector/wiring next.
 
is any code reader likely to tell me my rough running engine is sparkplug v coil v injector?

Code readers simply read diagnostic trouble codes generated by the ECU’s built in diagnostic capabilities. Generally speaking, older vehicles aren’t going to give you as much to go off of compared to newer ones. A real scan tool that will display live data can help, but it is still up to the user to interpret what they’re seeing. In your proposed case, I’d expect that you might be able to narrow it down to a spark or a fuel issue, but I wouldn’t even bank on that.

No matter how sophisticated the electronics are on a vehicle, it still requires the person diagnosing it to use the same common sense and basic troubleshooting skills that would be necessary to keep a 1970 Chevy with no diagnostic interface on the road.
 
is any code reader likely to tell me my rough running engine is sparkplug v coil v injector?
Likely most, certainly the bluedriver will show the number of misfires per minute or last cycle by individual cylinder number. So it wouldn't be hard to test or swap plug or coil pack for an individual cylinder once you know which one is causing the trouble.
 
I’m know you’re working with a Toyota, but I’ve owned primarily Fords over the decades, and a program is available for a nominal cost (or even free versions) called ForeScan. It works on my Lincolns I own now too. It’s VERY capable, even with abilities that the dealerships don’t have. Don’t use the program without some research or knowledge, because you can make very expensive mistakes too.

Not sure if you can find a similar program for your Toyo.
 
Happy update!
Through unparalleled shrewd and skillful powers of observation, I have made a diagnosis and put off for now, unnecessary purchase of tools.
The damn rats have chewed through an injector lead.
Twisted the bare wires together and it’s running sweet again.

This spare truck has been in the barn but there were rodents bothering it in the fall so I moved it outside away grass & brush and started spraying it with peppermint regularly… but that didn’t do the trick
IMG_4844.jpeg:(
 
Oh man. I nearly lost a Subaru outback to fire from squirrels chewing through fuel line.
 
No matter how sophisticated the electronics are on a vehicle, it still requires the person diagnosing it to use the same common sense and basic troubleshooting skills that would be necessary to keep a 1970 Chevy with no diagnostic interface on the road.

Goes back to the old school "suck, squeeze, bang, blow" decision tree/algorithm. Ahh, those were the days
 
The code reader will tell you what. It won’t tell you why. For example, the code reader will tell you which cylinder is misfiring but it won’t tell you if it’s because you are getting inconsistent spark, if the fuel injector isn’t pushing the right amount of fuel, if you have a leaky valve or broken ring causing low compression, or if your crank or cam sensor isn’t picking up the tone ring reliably. My point is that you won’t find a code reader capable of anything besides saying which sensor is reading what. After that is when the diagnosing starts.
 
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No matter how sophisticated the electronics are on a vehicle, it still requires the person diagnosing it to use the same common sense and basic troubleshooting skills that would be necessary to keep a 1970 Chevy with no diagnostic interface on the road.
My '66 F100 says hello. I'm doing a basic tuneup this afternoon.

1000006665.jpg
 
Happy update!
Through unparalleled shrewd and skillful powers of observation, I have made a diagnosis and put off for now, unnecessary purchase of tools.
The damn rats have chewed through an injector lead.
Twisted the bare wires together and it’s running sweet again.

This spare truck has been in the barn but there were rodents bothering it in the fall so I moved it outside away grass & brush and started spraying it with peppermint regularly… but that didn’t do the trick
View attachment 151675:(

I feel your pain, brother. Rats or squirrels ate through the coolant overflow hose on my 1996 F150.
 
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