NA Adding an outlet to a bathroom

billsgs126 said:
So, a third person just installs whatever someone else said to and creates a problem that did not exist beforehand. There is no safety hazard in having the outlet behind the refrigerator not attached to a GFCI. There is no additional hazard from having the wall outlet in a bedroom (which might be used for a personal a/c unit) not connected to a GFCI.
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Don't care. The GFCI circuits installed in our new garage addition got removed immediately after inspection because my air compressor and upright freezer would trip them every time. Stupid place to have GFCIs. I'll reinstall the GFCIs when we sell the house lol.
 
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MooneyDriver78 said:
Also I think code requires that splices be accessible, in a electrical box. You can’t just splice them and stuff them into wall cavity.
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Something cute that I have seen is to have a splice (or several), in a box, buried in a wall.
 
billsgs126 said:
GFCI's work on current (Amps), not Volts. Older compressors (refrigerators and window a/c units) pull a lot of amps right when they start. They will trip off an inexpensive GFCI. (Yeah, they are supposed to react to the differential, but they react really quickly.)

If you are building a new house, or renovating one, the NEC is relevant. Where I find issues is where some realtor or home inspector thinks that a house built in 1922 or 1946 should have this or that because they don't understand WHY a GFCI is a good thing to have. (I've seen houses where three or four GFCIs were hooked up in series. And I think rock-paper-scissors was played to decide what to connect where.)

So, a third person just installs whatever someone else said to and creates a problem that did not exist beforehand. There is no safety hazard in having the outlet behind the refrigerator not attached to a GFCI. There is no additional hazard from having the wall outlet in a bedroom (which might be used for a personal a/c unit) not connected to a GFCI.
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if your GFCI is rated at 20 amps don't be surprised when a 30amp load pops it. It's not the GFCIs fault... it did its job.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Don't care. The GFCI circuits installed in our new garage addition got removed immediately after inspection because my air compressor and upright freezer would trip them every time. Stupid place to have GFCIs. I'll reinstall the GFCIs when we sell the house lol.
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Garage is a wet area... not sure why because outlets near doors and windows can get wet and don't need GFCIs. Blame the insurance industry. They never think of your cost, only their liability. Then when there is a claim they cry that it's so expensive to rebuild.... no kidding, you want $150 breakers installed
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
HAHAHAH!!!
This is not "MY" bathroom.
My bathroom has a bidet that shoots fire and nails because I am a man.
What she does in there with her weird contraptions is her business. My only requirement was "This is the master and I need one that lifts the seat when it detects my presence at 3:00 in the morning. "
Win Win
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I went for the no-outlet version: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0815P3QM6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

However, the light and the auto-up lid and seat are intriguing... What model do you have?
 
pfarber said:
if your GFCI is rated at 20 amps don't be surprised when a 30amp load pops it. It's not the GFCIs fault... it did its job.
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GFCI's are not there to protect against overloads.
 
flyingron said:
GFCI's are not there to protect against overloads.
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yes,they are still circuit breakers. they just have the ability to monitor for current imbalance.

the question was why do refrigerators sometimes pop GFCI outlets. the answer is the current inrush pops the breaker. get a properly rated GFCI, or a good appliance and it's not a problem.
 
flyingcheesehead said:
I went for the no-outlet version: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0815P3QM6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

However, the light and the auto-up lid and seat are intriguing... What model do you have?
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This is the one I just installed:
The air drying is a nice touch and the fact that it lights up seemed odd at first but in the middle of the night, it is great.

We have a different one in another bathroom that is just water and only hooked up to cold but I recently installed a water recirculating pump on the water heater so the cold water in the house is luke warm for the first 30 seconds or so and we have instant hot now so I may hook up a hot water line but its kind of a non issue.
 
pfarber said:
yes,they are still circuit breakers. they just have the ability to monitor for current imbalance.
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No, they are not. Some devices (for installation in panels) are both an OCD and a GFCI, but the receptacle type in the bathrooms are not doing any sort of overcurrent.
 
pfarber said:
yes,they are still circuit breakers. they just have the ability to monitor for current imbalance.

the question was why do refrigerators sometimes pop GFCI outlets. the answer is the current inrush pops the breaker. get a properly rated GFCI, or a good appliance and it's not a problem.
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Compressors pull a heavy load for milliseconds when starting. Rewiring the circuit to accommodate this spike as normal poses more of a danger than having a regular (15A in this case) circuit breaker that is not tripped by a surge lasting milliseconds.
 
Some people claim that it's capacitive reactance to ground that can trip GFCIs - I assume because current in the "hot" wire gets out of phase with the grounded "Neutral" wire.

My band saw likes to trip the GFCI every once in a while (right when you turn it on), but the table saw, miter saw, drill press, etc. are just fine.
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
I have an outlet in my bathroom that is GFCI.
I want to daisy chain an outlet off it to the other side of the wall.

Do I need to buy a GFCI outlet or does the fact that the one to which it is daisy chained is GFCI make it GFCI as it is on the same circuit?
Any special considerations that would be different than non GFCI outlets?
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A year ago a friend had a fire in their house where they had to fight tooth and nail with the insurance company to get paid on the claim.. They did some electrical work that was not permitted and even though it was an upgrade from the old knob ad tube wiring, and the fire was caused by the old knob and tube wiring that was still in use, the insurance company pushed back..

Something I found out recently... we had a dedicated circuit put in for our washer and dryer.. As the outlet sat near a slop sink, I question the electrician and was told we didn't need a GFCI as it would trip at the service panel... yeupp the inspector passed it..
 
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