Laser Paint Remover - Stripping Paint to Polish

N1230k

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Roy Reeves
On my social media I see a lot of post about laser paint removal. I’m fascinated with this topic apparently because I keep watching them, wondering if this thing is real or just some heat up junk. But, I acquired a Luscombe to restore, and the gentleman who started the restoration applied a fresh coat of silver paint before he passed away.

I don’t know how much surface prep was put into the project, but I can see places where the silver paint is already peeling up. (1) I am just a little anal retentive about things like this; (2) I don’t like the look of silver paint because it’s not bright enough to make a second color pop out - I would much rather have a white canvas; and (3) I really want a polished airplane. On the third point, I don’t know that I’m actually going to do it. I either want a full on show plane, or I’m going to leave the silver paint where it is put some black numbers on it, get her flying, and just enjoy the plane and don’t worry about what it looks like. Again that decision has not been made yet.

However, if I decide to go to show plane route… That paints gotta come off. And these laser paint removers have really gotten my attention. I know the cost of just stripping the paint off of the plane is going to be as much as one of these machines would cost. (I’ve been shopping, they start at around 4000 but like paint jobs can top 20 with very little effort.)

Has anyone on this forum heard of, know of someone, or seen one of these laser paint removers used on an aircraft?

Madame Google tells me that a lower power ~100 to 400W pulse laser would be appropriate for aluminum, and Wood, which means I could use it on other stuff later, and these can be had for about $5000. Which is what I figure it’s gonna cost just to get the existing paint stripped off of the airplane and that’s with great hope that they get off every little bit. I will probably with a $5000 strip job still require 40 to 50 hours of my own personal labor to clean up the smaller spots around rivets, etc..

Before I convince myself, this is the thing to do has anybody tried it?
 
I don't know anything about laser paint removal.
I did watch my hangar neighbor strip a early 172 in his hangar. They used paint remover and a pressure washer.
The wing got damaged by trees during a simulated engine out that turned into a real one right at the beginning of the runway. No one got hurt except the plane.
When the repaired wing came back all shiny and new they decided to strip the rest of the badly worn paint off.
It was a big job, took weeks and months. Then the polishing, many days and nights with a buffer.
You probably saw it at Oshkosh for sale the last 2 years. He told me before last years Osh he paid a couple guys $6000. to polish it again. I am not sure if he sold it? I think it needs to be touched up every year?
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Before I convince myself, this is the thing to do has anybody tried it?
They've been using laser stripping/cleaning on aircraft at the military and MRO levels for a number of years. However, it is not cost effective below that level which is why most went to some sort of media blasting vs chemical. Regardless, per current rules, you can completely strip your Luscombe with some sort of bio stripper under prevent mx and your pilot certificate. Some of the disassembly/reassembly will require A&P supervision but you could handle the whole project. As to having a polished aircraft, offer to help several people or a museum who have such aircraft before you make your decision. My recommendation is if you want a silver aircraft paint it silver and wax once a month.
 
No experience with laser removal, but quite a bit with removing by blasting and chemicals.

What kind of air mask do you wear when Lasering off the paint? Presumably the laser burns the paint, which will make very toxic fumes, depending on the pigments. You will need a fresh coverall each time you work on it.

Many years ago, all the airliners had beautiful polished aluminum finish, except for the logo and numbers. They found that the cost of polishing per year exceeded the cost of painting. Washing cost about 10% as much as polishing. Corrosion damage was reduced, so a win win.

Our flying club's first plane was 1/4 painted, the remainder bare aluminum. We polished it twice, then just let go grey. Eventually, we stripped and fully painted it, and washing it was a breeze compared to getting the aluminum looking just good, not shiny.
 
I've seen some instances of people using ceramic coatings to maintain the polished appearance without the necessity of polishing again and again. Refreshing the coating evidently every six months or so was sufficient to prevent surface oxidation, and had the bonus of making it easier to keep clean too. No personal experience with it, but certainly something I'd consider if I wanted a polished bird.
 
Laser stripping and thin aluminum are not compatible without some extreme caution. You're miles ahead and much safer to go the chemical route.
 
Don’t polish unless you really love your luscombe and are willing to spend a ridiculous amount of time polishing.I’ve owned one and never again for me although some people don’t seem to mind if they have nothing better to do.It was beautiful though
 

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Instead of ceramic coating, what about shooting it with a clear coat and ceramic coating on top of it?

Those that like the look of polished aluminum, bless your heart. Which is a nice way of saying I don't get it. The thought of ongoing hours and hours of polishing in addition to regular maintenance gives me the shudders. I'd rather spend the time flying the wife places. But if it rocks your boat, full speed ahead.
 
I'd guess it would be no more of a weight penalty than if you painted it, since clear coat is a type of paint.

Have no idea if it would even be possible however. Not being a paint expert, I don't know if clear coat would adhere to a slick, polished surface.
 
I'd guess it would be no more of a weight penalty than if you painted it, since clear coat is a type of paint.

Have no idea if it would even be possible however. Not being a paint expert, I don't know if clear coat would adhere to a slick, polished surface.
It wouldn't stick. My friend who painted the RV-10 is about to repaint the belly because he didn't scuff it before primer and the primer and paint are coming off in sheets. The underlying aluminum is shiny...
 
I'd guess it would be no more of a weight penalty than if you painted it, since clear coat is a type of paint.
Fair point. Not sure though what the benefit of clear-coat + ceramic coating would be vs just doing the ceramic coating itself, if the goal is to avoid oxidization.
 
I want to co2 blast the paint of my birdy, unfortunately finding the equipment for rent is turning out to be next to impossible.
thinking if it fit, would be a good way to strip the tanks also
i looked into laser but someone said something about heating of the aluminum and i never checked further
 
I want to co2 blast the paint of my birdy, unfortunately finding the equipment for rent is turning out to be next to impossible.
thinking if it fit, would be a good way to strip the tanks also
i looked into laser but someone said something about heating of the aluminum and i never checked further
Might look at dry ice blasting too.

Or talk with an aircraft paint shop. The one near me seems to have a pretty good handle on stripping. In fact, they often use razor blades and just scrape the paint off. That terrifies me, but seems to work well.
 
Might look at dry ice blasting too.

Or talk with an aircraft paint shop. The one near me seems to have a pretty good handle on stripping. In fact, they often use razor blades and just scrape the paint off. That terrifies me, but seems to work well.
Isn't CO2 blasting and and Dry Ice blasting the same?
 
Isn't CO2 blasting and and Dry Ice blasting the same?
Yes. Good catch. I was thinking soda blasting.

One thing I will add is that dry ice blasting is expensive. The equipment (and therefore renting it) is expensive and buying containers of dry ice ain't cheap either.

The good thing about chemical or mechanical stripping is you can do it as time allows. Strip the underside of a wing, strip the top, strip the tailcone, strip something else. You can fly the airplane between sessions. You aren't subject to the time pressure that comes with renting equipment or buying tubs of dry ice.
 
My welding gas vendor is the largest seller of dry ice in the area. They rent dry ice blasting machines.

Honest question.... Can a dry ice blaster really remove the paint in an economical fashion? Or would it be 1/4" wide strips.
 
My welding gas vendor is the largest seller of dry ice in the area. They rent dry ice blasting machines.

Honest question.... Can a dry ice blaster really remove the paint in an economical fashion? Or would it be 1/4" wide strips.
Depends on the unit. Don't forget though, that you need somewhere in excess of 50 SCFM @ 90 PSIG to do the work.
 
i've seen used on cars and oil well equip, i'm sure it would. I don't know about economical, haven't found the equip yet. probably reasonable if i can do it in a day or two.

think i'd use a razor blade on myself before i try stripping a whole plane, omg, thing must be made outta gold-aluminum.
 
i've seen used on cars and oil well equip, i'm sure it would. I don't know about economical, haven't found the equip yet. probably reasonable if i can do it in a day or two.

think i'd use a razor blade on myself before i try stripping a whole plane, omg, thing must be made outta gold-aluminum.
Painting an airplane is a huge job. Stripping one is a big job too. One I wouldn't enjoy. But, you can strip and paint piecemeal and <mostly> keep the aircraft flyable if you have the patience to take it one bite at a time. Securing an adequate space for painting is often a challenge for the DIY'er.
 
Depends on the unit. Don't forget though, that you need somewhere in excess of 50 SCFM @ 90 PSIG to do the work.
Woof. My industrial screw compressor is rate at 49.7 @90 psi. That's some serious volume.
 
I used own a 100 cfm diesel compressor. I have done quite a bit of blasting. Used several different kinds of media.
Last car I did I used plastic media.
To me a chemical strip only make sense on a aircraft?
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Urea plastic media.
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To me a chemical strip only make sense on a aircraft?
Even on aircraft it can depend on a number of things on whether chemical strip or media blast makes more sense. For example media blast requires a higher level of application skill when working with .020"-.040" thick aluminum skins or composite panels.

However, there are also some areas with rules that make chemical stripping almost cost prohibitive when disposing of the stripper/paint residues even at the DIY level. Regardless, having performed a number of field level paint jobs on aircraft, I think the paint removal/application process should be dealt with as a package deal to get the best value of ones time and money.
 
i can get the compressor pretty easy, is there anything especial about the blast equip? i just assumed there was a specific co2 blaster, if it's just the media, i can make this happen
 
I media blasted an entire fire engine once years ago. Results came out great (although it was steel).
 
i can get the compressor pretty easy, is there anything especial about the blast equip? i just assumed there was a specific co2 blaster, if it's just the media, i can make this happen
CO2 blasting takes a specialized unit. One part is a pelletizer. It takes the CO2 blocks or chunks and turns it into pellets of a certain size. From there, it gets fed to the blasting system. They do make units that use liquid CO2, but are even more expensive and probably not going to find a rental unit for that. Something else to consider is CO2 cost. Buying in small quantities, it will run you in the 4-8$ a pound. You are going to need several hundred, to a thousand pound or more. That requires going with bulk service. It also means ordering from a couple of days to a week or more in advance and you have to be able take delivery of a pallet sized or larger insulated container. Once you've taken delivery, you have probably 36 clock hours or less to use it, due to sublimation. Long years ago, the EAA did a DC-3 as a demo, and it took almost 9000 gallons of liquid CO2, with pellets being generated on a continuous basis while they were blasting.

There is at least one car restoration shop here in the DFW area that has CO2 blast capability, but they have to order the dry ice something like 72 hours in advance and it's shipped up here from Houston.
 
I media blasted an entire fire engine once years ago. Results came out great (although it was steel).
I have blasted 4 steel tanker trucks, Trailers, bumpers and more when I was younger. I am lucky I don’t have lung disease.
Blasting is very hard work.
Then I painted everything I blasted usually with in 24 hours or less.
 
Painting an airplane is a huge job. Stripping one is a big job too. One I wouldn't enjoy. But, you can strip and paint piecemeal and <mostly> keep the aircraft flyable if you have the patience to take it one bite at a time. Securing an adequate space for painting is often a challenge for the DIY'er.
Any county owned airport I know strictly forbids stripping or painting unless an approved shop. Last time on my field guy was told to stop was over 30 years ago. Environmental reasons along with overspray damage.
 
Yes you would be a dumazz if you tried to paint your plane at my airport because of overspray.

The 172 had get permission to do that strip job. They put up large tarps on the walls and ground. It’s a mess and lots of work.
 
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Any county owned airport I know strictly forbids stripping or painting unless an approved shop. Last time on my field guy was told to stop was over 30 years ago. Environmental reasons along with overspray damage.
I'm not aware of provisions against paint stripping at my airport. My hangar lease does expressly prohibits painting. Didn't stop a couple of my hangar neighbors. I had to spend a couple of hours with a claybar one day because of overspray from an adjacent hangar.
 
I'm not aware of provisions against paint stripping at my airport. My hangar lease does expressly prohibits painting. Didn't stop a couple of my hangar neighbors. I had to spend a couple of hours with a claybar one day because of overspray from an adjacent hangar.
Wow, I’d be upset.
 
Wow, I’d be upset.
Not the happiest of times, but its smart to stay on good terms with your hangar neighbors, so I made him aware of the problem, but let it slide. He volunteered to handle it, but I took care of it.
 
After reading all this, I think I’m gonna leave it the way the last guy gave it to me
 
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We have airplanes arrive regularly for strip and paint. We start working on them during morning time. Our mechanics remove the control surfaces, the paint technicians cover the windows with the proper material to preserve the lexan / polycarbonate / plexi / pick your material, mask off areas where stripper would leak and invite corrosion, and the airplane is ready for stripping by the end of the day. That evening, we apply stripper, let it sit overnight, following morning we rinse it, deal with any paint that stuck around, deal with dents, corrosion, cracks, and fiberglass / plastics that need attention. In the olden days, people used a Methylene Chloride based stripper and the airplane would be stripped in umm....2 hours perhaps 3. Messy job. The newer strippers leave far less residue. Buying a laser stripper sounds cool and all ....but I've yet to be convinced about using one in a commercial operation. At the same shop some of our painters also paint hot rods, low riders, and other very demanding paint jobs were blasting is required - when someone comes and tries to sell us a laser stripper that makes sense, we may consider it. After 30 years of engineering work, we haven't seen one that makes sense...yet.
 
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