Glasair III owner here - intoduction

I'm going to guess I am pretty nose heavy. I need a lot of nose up trim on take off and the plane is definitely faster with weight in the back.

I'm going to run it again tomorrow doing a 4-way GPS course using -20 LOP, 50 ROP, and 100 ROP to see what I get. If I can't get 220 knots I will be buying new flowed cylinders with high compressions pistons. If I wanted to go slow I would have kept my Bonanza :no:
 
Alexb2000 said:
OK. Did you do a dynamic balance with the new prop?
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No, I will be doing that though. I know it was properly installed per the manual. I have seen people put them on 180 degrees wrong and get a vibration.
 
toddsanderson said:
I'm going to guess I am pretty nose heavy. I need a lot of nose up trim on take off and the plane is definitely faster with weight in the back.

I'm going to run it again tomorrow doing a 4-way GPS course using -20 LOP, 50 ROP, and 100 ROP to see what I get. If I can't get 220 knots I will be buying new flowed cylinders with high compressions pistons. If I wanted to go slow I would have kept my Bonanza :no:
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Isn't 200 about what a 550 malibu does in 6 place pressurized comfort?:rofl:
 
Yep, it sure does:lol:

The problem is that is costs $15k per year in maintenance and reserves and has a panel from 1985 unless you spend $150k on it and it still will not have my panel and autopilot. I like the Malibu a lot, but don't need the maintenance.

Here is a neat shot of the HITS coming down the GPS approach.
 

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toddsanderson said:
Yep, it sure does:lol:

The problem is that is costs $15k per year in maintenance and reserves and has a panel from 1985 unless you spend $150k on it and it still will not have my panel and autopilot. I like the Malibu a lot, but don't need the maintenance.

Here is a neat shot of the HITS coming down the GPS approach.
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I have HITS on my G1000. When I first got it I played with it just because it was cool, then I had to turn it off. I felt like I was in Star Wars going into warp looking at that thing.

I agree this flying game is crazy expensive.
 
Sorry to hear about the speed, that was a lot of coin. I was really hoping you'd get at least the same as the std 2 blade installation. My wallet is probably happy I won't be running out to get one though. There probably is something going on elsewhere other then the prop though. Just before my overhaul I had a strange vibration I thought was dirty injectors but turned out to be faulty keepers on one valve that reduced the valve lift. Lost about 8 kts. This was on the way to the annual where it was discovered. Also had a cg issue where I lost about 10 knots. After new panel install where taking out 80 lbs of avionics boxes behind the baggage compartment shifted me forward. Took a while to get it all sorted out and my speed back.
 
I think you are correct. I have decided to go with HC pistons and new cylinders as well. I also took some weight out of the tail and put on a heavier prop. I'm going to guess that my CG is pretty far forward. I intend to put on a starter that is 9 lbs lighter and I will move the battery to the back if needed; although, I would rather not do that.

I wanted to do the prop anyway just because the old one was due for overhaul and was not the right prop. I could have overhauled it and had the internal pitch stops set, but I figured that I might as well have the better looking prop. I also am seeing a much better climb rate with the new prop.

Once I get the new starter on and new interior installed I will reweight the plane. Maybe we can compare notes on W&B and come up with a solution for best speed.
 
I would think you should be at least up near 215-220 with your setup even with a slightly forward cg. Another place to look for loss of speed is your gear doors. Vibration over time wore my hinges enough so that airflow at speed caused them to push down and back just enough lose about 8 kts. Took a while to figure that one out.
 
N321SR said:
I would think you should be at least up near 215-220 with your setup even with a slightly forward cg. Another place to look for loss of speed is your gear doors. Vibration over time wore my hinges enough so that airflow at speed caused them to push down and back just enough lose about 8 kts. Took a while to figure that one out.
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The gear doors are nice and tight. We put it up on the jacks after radio install and they are flush and tight.
 
Ok, my engine is fine as far as we can tell. The lowest compression was 74 and the highest 76. The plugs are clean and the engine monitor data looks good. After running my GAMI lean test today along with 3-way GPS test I decided to try 2300 RPM and the vibration difference was amazing. At 2300 RPM there is no vibration. It starts to come in at 2400 and is worst at 2700.

Three way GPS speed test turned out a true airspeed of 202 knots when I was 30 DLOP with the engine stumbling a bit. When enriched to roughly 75 DROP TAs became 212 knots with a smooth running engine. Pulling back the prop to 2300 RPM suffered a 3 knot airspeed loss, but a 1.5 GPH fuel savings! I will likely use that setting from now on.

My GAMI spread is .9 GPH and that is too high. I'm going to Get GAMI injectors and dynamically balance the prop. I am then going to look into W&B after the interior is installed a new lightweight starter is installed. I am currently also flying around with 8 gallons in the header tank that I do not need for my 500 NM legs, so that is an option as well to leave that weight out when not needed.
 

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Three things I can think of off the bat; I wish I could have seen the plugs for an indication of an induction leak or a nozzle problem. Your engine graph leaves a bit of room for possibility.

If you have a harmonic in that power range, you have a serious issue. There is something not right going on inside your engine. If it was mine, I'd be pulling things apart and measuring very carefully.

One thing first though; What ignition system do you have? Failing coils can have this effect as well.

Knowing it is related to load factor is a good key, hopefully it will not be a harmonic issue.
 
Talking about new top end...
I went with new ECI titans and 10:1 compression during my overhaul. Barrett did the porting and other flow tricks on the build. I really thought I would get more speed from all the money spent on the engine however knots are elusive. All in all the 30 extra HP netted maybe 9 knots.

I had seriously considered the Grant Semanskee III-XP turbo engine package but the price was around 70k so I decided to do the overhaul instead. Since nothing except my case halves passed inspection, the final bill was north of 70K anyway. How I wish I could turn back the clock and go the other route. A turbo in the mid teens would make this ride a whole other class of airplane.

Just a thought for you when considering money vs knots for your Glasair.
 
I'm actually considering a TN option for the plane. It is about $50k installed, but I don't know if I want to spend that kind of coin on the plane. I would then need O2 and would have to have de-ice for sure since I would not have $250k wrapped in in a plane that did not have it.

With a TN option the plane should do an easy 250 knots true on 18 GPH at 17k or so. Mine has thee longer wingtips and if you were willing to fly at 22-23k you might be able to eek out 260-270 knots.

Then again, I don't think I want any more complexity. The plane is pretty dirt simple right now. If I am going to make it more complex I would most likely just buy a Malibu instead and have A/C, pressurization, etc.

I do like the way this plane flies. Nothing handles like it.
 
It would be interesting, however impractical, to switch props for a day and see what happened with the speeds.
 
Ferari of the air it is called. Nothing like it if you ask me, Glasairs are a lot of fun. Also refered to as a poor mans P-51. It really isn't far off either.
 
toddsanderson said:
I'm actually considering a TN option for the plane. It is about $50k installed, but I don't know if I want to spend that kind of coin on the plane. I would then need O2 and would have to have de-ice for sure since I would not have $250k wrapped in in a plane that did not have it.

With a TN option the plane should do an easy 250 knots true on 18 GPH at 17k or so. Mine has thee longer wingtips and if you were willing to fly at 22-23k you might be able to eek out 260-270 knots.

Then again, I don't think I want any more complexity. The plane is pretty dirt simple right now. If I am going to make it more complex I would most likely just buy a Malibu instead and have A/C, pressurization, etc.

I do like the way this plane flies. Nothing handles like it.
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Why not go Lancair IV-P?
 
Henning said:
Why not go Lancair IV-P?
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I have never liked that plane. It's just a personal thing. The gear looks cheap, the interior is cheap looking as well. Still needs to have de-ice, etc for that much money. A Malibu would be a much better plane.

I really like the way the Glasair flies. I will make it work. I think by the time I get the prop balanced, rest of the interior installed, lightweight starter, GAMI injectors, and a proper re-weigh to know where I am at I will be in good shape.

Took a friend for a ride in the plane today and let him fly it. He could not believe how well it handled. He had never been in a prop plane that would sustain a 3k climb or one that would cruise descend at 250 knots through the bumps with no discomfort. Just to prove how good the G3X autopilot is we hit the outer IAF on a GPS approach at 225 knots and slowed to 200 knots at the inbound IAF and then pulled the power back to 10 in MP to get slowed to 122 knots at the FAF and then gear and flaps down. The autopilot stayed in the HITS boxes during the entire maneuver and never moved more than 20 ft off altitude when in alt hold and the needles never moved once established. Truly amazing piece of equipment.

There is just something about the airframe that also gives you confidence. The wide and stout gear is very tough and the feel once seated in the plane is very comfortable. Just overall great airplane.
 
Todd, Instead of GAMI's get a set of Airflow Performance tuneable injectors. A lot less money than Gami's and the inserts were $25 apiece a few years ago. All the cylinders on my IO -360 would peak within a .2gph spread. I could run 40 degrees LOP and they would be within 5 degrees of each other. CHTs would also be within 5-7 degrees. Run their test program and they can tell you what inserts to use on each cylinder. Also check out the Advanced Component Engineering cylinders http://ace-performance.com/. Might be just the ticket for you, less weight and more horsepower. Don
 
Here is the Facebook page with more info. pahttps://www.facebook.com/AdvancedComponentEngineering/timelinege

Henning, I think we have come a long way in technology since the Vega. A lot of the production engines like the Ford Duratec are all aluminum. So if you can get a 10% or more horsepower increase, better cooling and 60lbs lighter than an angle valve 540 what's not to like. And they are doing a lot of their testing on 87-91 auto fuel. Kevin Eldridge and Bart Lalonde are two of the best engine guys in the business. Don
 
yakdriver said:
Here is the Facebook page with more info. pahttps://www.facebook.com/AdvancedComponentEngineering/timelinege

Henning, I think we have come a long way in technology since the Vega. A lot of the production engines like the Ford Duratec are all aluminum. So if you can get a 10% or more horsepower increase, better cooling and 60lbs lighter than an angle valve 540 what's not to like. And they are doing a lot of their testing on 87-91 auto fuel. Kevin Eldridge and Bart Lalonde are two of the best engine guys in the business. Don
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Like I said, I question it. Aluminum cylinder liners are not yet proven out, not saying they can't.
 
yakdriver said:
Todd, Instead of GAMI's get a set of Airflow Performance tuneable injectors. A lot less money than Gami's and the inserts were $25 apiece a few years ago. All the cylinders on my IO -360 would peak within a .2gph spread. I could run 40 degrees LOP and they would be within 5 degrees of each other. CHTs would also be within 5-7 degrees. Run their test program and they can tell you what inserts to use on each cylinder. Also check out the Advanced Component Engineering cylinders http://ace-performance.com/. Might be just the ticket for you, less weight and more horsepower. Don
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According to Airflow Performance their kit is $450 now. While their product is probably good GAMI is well proven and they are very active on the various pilot boards helping you directly.

While I would like to have the cylinder assemblies you are talking about I have a hard time shelling out $18k for the kit right now considering my cylinders are currently healthy and my engine only has 300 hours since new. If I had bad cylinders I would consider changing them, but hard to do right now.

Thanks for the information though - it is appreciated.
 
I really love this plane. The new panel has made it a while different airplane. Having ADS-B traffic in/out is nice. It is really nice being able to descend at 3k per minute with 56% power and still be 20 knots under the yellow arc. I truly believe there is not a stronger/better flying single than a Glasair III, but I may be biased:goofy:
 

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toddsanderson said:
I really love this plane. The new panel has made it a while different airplane. Having ADS-B traffic in/out is nice. It is really nice being able to descend at 3k per minute with 56% power and still be 20 knots under the yellow arc. I truly believe there is not a stronger/better flying single than a Glasair III, but I may be biased:goofy:
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Nice, yeah, people never want to believe me what a difference it makes. What is your Vno?
 
toddsanderson said:
I really love this plane. The new panel has made it a while different airplane. Having ADS-B traffic in/out is nice. It is really nice being able to descend at 3k per minute with 56% power and still be 20 knots under the yellow arc. I truly believe there is not a stronger/better flying single than a Glasair III, but I may be biased:goofy:
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What panel? Sorry, I didn't want to go through the 200ish posts. I have my eyes set on a III.

TJ


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toddsanderson said:
I really love this plane. The new panel has made it a while different airplane. Having ADS-B traffic in/out is nice. It is really nice being able to descend at 3k per minute with 56% power and still be 20 knots under the yellow arc. I truly believe there is not a stronger/better flying single than a Glasair III, but I may be biased:goofy:
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Did you add something recently (like speed brakes) that makes a descent like that possible?
 
I'm not sure how to answer that question. It will descend at 300 knots just fine if you let it. I have descended at 250 knots indicated many times.

You simply pull the power back to 55% or so and select an IAS hold on the autopilot and the set the altitude pre-select for approach altitude.

The autopilot will hold your selected speed until the selected altitude and then level off. 55% at the temperatures we are seeing here gives you above 195 true @ 3kft. Since you are 5 miles out from the initial fix of the approach you simply begin to pull off power with the intent of being down to 150 or so by the IAF and 122 knots by the FAF. The autopilot flies the whole thing, you just manage the speed.
 
I'm glad to hear the panel and Garmin auto pilot are working so well in the Glasair III. Having put my G3X panel and autopilot in mine before anyone I knew was flying with one was a little concerning but I had confidence it would work well. I should know first hand in a couple of months! Looking forward to that first flight for sure.
As for the VNE and VNO concerns above, I have none. As long as you control surfaces are balanced properly this airframe is good well past the manual's speeds. Jeff Lavell runs Reno at speeds well in excess of 400mph and his structure is the same as any other Glasair III.
 
That is the advantage to buying Garmin, you know it's going to work, and you know it will continue to be supported. Back in the day, Green Mountain was the Shizzle, are there any still in use?:dunno:
 
Re: Glasair III owner here - introduction

Silly question here, but why do so many glasairs and rvs have g530, g1000s etc in them? I just got my first glance at a g3x in an RV and I don't honestly understand why an experimental would have the certificated stuff in it when the g3x is SO much cheaper.

Without hijacking this thread too badly, what am I missing. Why did you chose the g3x?

TJ


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Henning said:
That is the advantage to buying Garmin, you know it's going to work, and you know it will continue to be supported. Back in the day, Green Mountain was the Shizzle, are there any still in use?:dunno:
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It was Blue Mountain,, and, yeah... That guy left ALOT of people with obsolete hardware with no support and with no method of updating the database...:mad2::mad:
 
Re: Glasair III owner here - introduction

Tj1376 said:
Silly question here, but why do so many glasairs and rvs have g530, g1000s etc in them? I just got my first glance at a g3x in an RV and I don't honestly understand why an experimental would have the certificated stuff in it when the g3x is SO much cheaper.

Without hijacking this thread too badly, what am I missing. Why did you chose the g3x?

TJ


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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TJ, the g3x is relatively new. The certified stuff you mention really was there first and people went for it instead of the fly by night units mentioned above. Now, I doubt you would find many buying them instead of the G3x. It changes rapidly, I have the non touch screen version.
 

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Re: Glasair III owner here - introduction

Tj1376 said:
Silly question here, but why do so many glasairs and rvs have g530, g1000s etc in them? I just got my first glance at a g3x in an RV and I don't honestly understand why an experimental would have the certificated stuff in it when the g3x is SO much cheaper.

Without hijacking this thread too badly, what am I missing. Why did you chose the g3x?

TJ


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I do not see why anyone would put a G500 in an experimental, but unfortunately if you want to file /G and go IFR and be able to legally shoot approaches you need a certified GPS and that is why I chose the GTN650. It really stinks because the G3X has a WAAS GPS built in and would be able to do approaches by itself if made capable.
 
Glad to see a few active Glasair people out there!

I'm very new to the Glasair builder ranks.

Loved your walk around video by the way.:)
 
N801BH said:
It was Blue Mountain,, and, yeah... That guy left ALOT of people with obsolete hardware with no support and with no method of updating the database...:mad2::mad:
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That was it, Blue Mountain, I always thought that was an awesome integrated setup. I remember when everyone lamented that technology wasn't available for certified.
 
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