DuPuis Family Cobra Build

Discussion in 'Hangar Talk' started by Ted DuPuis, Aug 3, 2018.

  1. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    #bandozer
    My point wasn't saying water won't happen, it's talking about what I need the most. Like I said, wiring is ultimately something I've never had an issue with, although this is the first time I'm making a complete wiring harness basically from scratch.

    When you look at the Pegasus wire it states resistance to oil, gas, grease, and acid. I'm assuming that if it does those it also is resistant to water, although probably to a lesser degree than the Marine stuff. Heat, however, is something I know will be present.
     
  2. SoonerAviator

    SoonerAviator Final Approach PoA Supporter

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    If you've got 250 F+ hitting your exposed wiring directly, you have other issues to deal with. I wouldn't be concerned about that as much. Most of it should be shielded from heat in wire loom anyway for protection as well as appearance.
     
  3. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    Fair point. Most of my wiring will be above the engine. The only wiring close to the exhaust will be the wiring for the starter, and that will still be below it and a good bit away.
     
  4. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    Well the wires I ordered claiming to be Ford Racing were counterfeit. Not 9mm, not Ford, lower quality all around.

    So, Amazon Prime free returns, try again with the right stuff...

    01396089-9C9C-4592-80E2-F5C0CEC13597.jpeg
     
  5. jsstevens

    jsstevens Final Approach PoA Supporter

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    But they were a pretty color of blue...
     
  6. Fiveslide

    Fiveslide Line Up and Wait

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    I recently bought my kid a pw50 that needed quite a bit of new parts. I ordered a bunch of crap off Amazon and learned even though a part shows up in a search for what you need, and says in the description will work for the bike, that doesn't mean the vendor is honest. You got to read the reviews, that's where people tell you if you're going to get a part that isn't correct, because they already got burned buying the crap that won't work.

    Read the reviews, every time.
     
  7. Sac Arrow

    Sac Arrow Touchdown! Greaser!

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    #wanttoseearunningengine
     
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  8. SoonerAviator

    SoonerAviator Final Approach PoA Supporter

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    IMG_0414-1.jpg
    Definitely not the Ford blue, lol. Might have matched the paint on the newer electric blue Mustangs, etc. The authentic Ford racing wires (in blue) are a soft blue.
     
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  9. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    Yeah. Not even a good knock-off. And they're maybe 8mm wires, definitely not 9mm.

    Looks like Summit is the best pricing on the real deal that I'll want. I already left a 1 star review and filed a request for a return with Amazon.
     
  10. 3393RP

    3393RP En-Route

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    If you have something going on that heats wire past 105°C (221°F) you have much bigger problems that 275°F insulation isn't going to mitigate.

    Overthinking? No kidding.
     
  11. 3393RP

    3393RP En-Route

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    That's the one I have. Ted, Ancor makes adhesive lined heat shrink connectors. They make the connection waterproof. I've been using Ancor wire and connectors for 20 years and have never had a single corroded connection.
     
  12. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    Overthinking is what I do. :)

    But yes, good points, that's probably the stuff to go with (both in terms of wiring and connectors). And realistically I should get a good crimping tool, too (been using vice grips for years).

    Time to order some more stuff...
     
  13. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    I'm getting my next shopping list together to include the Ancor wire (10 gauge, 12 gauge, and 16 gauge) as well as Ancor connectors.

    Ancor makes a crimp tool:

    https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-701030...E60KAYTFEK9&psc=1&refRID=QDA3H5D6GE60KAYTFEK9

    although there was the previous recommendation of the Greenlee crimp tool as well.

    My friend is starting work on the distributor modification as well. I've already shown the old dust cap that is getting repurposed to cap it:

    [​IMG]

    You can see here how he's started to shrink the distributor shaft:

    [​IMG]

    And practiced cutting threads (24 TPI) into the distributor. He's next going to turn it down to the proper major diameter and then actually cut the threads:

    [​IMG]

    Incidentally, the actual major diameter should be around that next ridge, which should be about perfect for clearing items under the hood.

    With my mom visiting last weekend and then us being out of town this coming weekend, progress has been slow. But getting there...
     
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  14. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    My friend finished up the distributor converted into an oil pump drive. Here's the result:

    [​IMG]

    I'm really happy with that. Should work perfectly.
     
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  15. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    One thing that I haven't figured out yet, but need to, is a fuse block. I see a lot of fuse blocks out there but most of them are junk brands. Does anyone have recommendations for "good" brands to go with?
     
  16. SoonerAviator

    SoonerAviator Final Approach PoA Supporter

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    You aren't using the Ron Francis wiring harness kit? It comes with the fuse box. However, I don't know what makes a junk fuse box unless it just really had poorly molded plastic or excess play in the receptacles. Are you using modern relays and ATC fuses? ATC mini?
     
  17. Fiveslide

    Fiveslide Line Up and Wait

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    I liked Blue Sea products for the boat.

    https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Blocks/dp/B01BXTXV1Q
     
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  18. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    I was thinking specifically about a marine one and saw those as well. One thing I haven't decided yet is the fuse block orientation and location, which would influence how ideal one of those would be. So I need to look at that some more. Maybe I'm not ready to do wiring just yet...
     
  19. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    It's been a while since I've posted an update on the Cobra, but that's because I haven't done much. I've gotten some various bits and pieces but I haven't actually made progress that could be considered moving forward in terms of progress. Lots of thinking about wiring harnesses, ordering various bits and pieces I will need. But I've been working on a lot of other projects outside while the weather is ideal, and now that my son won't have a last day of school this year (at school, anyway) I don't have that timeline. But I'll get back to it.

    Big thing is that the distributor modified into a smaller oil pump drive arrived. My friend made this on the lathe, and it came out perfect:

    [​IMG]

    The picture makes it look dirtier than it is but I didn't want to polish it up too much and have it stand out. It fits in the area perfectly and won't take attention away from the stacks.

    I think the part I need to work on next is figuring out where to locate the AC compressor in the trunk and then start figuring out hoses for it, while also mounting the AC evaporator and running those coolant hoses. Once I do that and then plug in the coolant temp sender, I'll be able to put water in the cooling system. Really I could prime the engine if I wanted at this point, although I don't really want to do that until I'm close to ready to start it.
     
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  20. MIFlyer

    MIFlyer Cleared for Takeoff PoA Supporter

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    Ted, I can't recall if this was EFI or Carb? regardless, what did you choose for fuel line? I'm torn on my project between
    Braided EFI hose with AN fittings from tank to TBI
    Nicop lines with flares and EFI rated rubber hose for the transitions
    PTFE hose
     
  21. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    This is an EFI setup. I ended up going with braided stainless PTFE hose with the appropriate fittings from Summit Racing (note: PTFE hose requires special fittings that have ferrules as the fittings will otherwise slip off the hoses). I used -6 AN sized lines and fittings the whole way from the tank to the fuel rail and back (a return system).

    Honestly, for your application (or for mine) I don't think it much matters whether you do rubber or PTFE. PTFE will theoretically last longer, withstand higher temperatures, and be able to withstand more fuel types (especially those with higher alcohol content). None of those probably matter much for your Scout. I would go with a fuel injection type hose just because the price difference isn't much, but as for rubber vs. PTFE.
     
  22. MIFlyer

    MIFlyer Cleared for Takeoff PoA Supporter

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    Thanks. That summit hose got really poor reviews on the hose ends. Let me know how it was to work with.

    Easiest would be the earls vaporguard and just run 3/8 both ways. Not braided, but, meh.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  23. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    The PTFE hose and fittings I would say was "Ok" to work with. The main thing is that you have to somehow keep the braided stainless part from going every direction when you cut it. And keep in mind it's tough stuff, so cutting it requires some pretty sharp snips or an angle grinder/Dremel cutting wheel (I used the latter). If you wrap the area you're going to cut in some kind of tape (packing tape is probably best since it's not inherently bendy/flexible) and then cut, it's not so bad. You then have to get the hose end over the braiding, put on the ferrule, and then screw it all together.

    It's the sort of thing that if you did it regularly would be easy and take you two minutes. If you're doing it once, expect to poke yourself with the sharp stainless wire and curse at it. But the end result seems very strong. The ferrule does make the assembly harder, and if you went with standard rubber hose you'd still have to slip the hose end over the stainless part, but the assembly would otherwise be easier.

    Would I do it again? Yes, I think I would.
     
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  24. SoonerAviator

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    I always use painters tape to hold the SS braiding while cutting. I leave the tape on while filling the ferrule until I have it started over the edge of the SS, then pull tape off and thread the ferrule on the rest of the way.
     
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  25. MIFlyer

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    It might be too late, but I bought a kit of Wirefy connectors (crimp with heat shrink). They also have butt joints that have a meltable solder. The connections were easy to make, super strong and the heat shrink stuff seems like really good quality.
     
  26. Ted DuPuis

    Ted DuPuis Administrator Management Council Member

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    I ended up buying the Greenlee tool that someone recommended on this thread with Ancor marine connectors. Seems like it makes sense to do.

    I accidentally ordered both the Greenlee and the Ancor crimp tools. The Ancor crimp tool could go all the way up to 26-gauge wire and had longer arms, but was a lot more expensive and didn't feel to be any better quality, so I returned it (yay for Amazon Prime).

    I do have 100% of the stuff I need to make the car actually run. Of course, it's not all hooked up. Since the runway is current priority I'll just keep working on that and supporting my wife's work on her outdoor projects. We got some socially distant mulch earlier - phone in your order and they drive the front end loader to your truck. Easy and you don't come into contact with anyone. No going in the office - they have big signs everywhere saying not to do it.
     
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