Continuing Nose Strut Problem

Mooney Fan

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Mooney Fan
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Here is a summary Cherokee 140

1- April 25 - Nose strut was at about 2". During the Annual it was 'serviced'. When I picked the plane up the strut was extended 3.5"

2- May 25- Walked in the hangar and the strut is completely collapsed. Nose strut was removed and serviced using Kit PN-TPNS-1. Again, when I picked upp the plane the strut was at the correct extension. But something new happened, when I get up on the step to get on the wing swoosh, the tail drops and the nose jumps up to what I believe to be full extension. And when I pull the plane out of the hangar there is a 1.5" drop off to the ramp. The nose drops off and strut collapses to normal height. But it has been slowly losing the pressures.

3- Jan 25- My new mechanic looked at it and added nitrogen to 5". When I got to the plane days later it was more like 3.5". When I got up on the wing again, the tail drops nose shoot up to what has to be max extension. And it stayed there. I blurpped a little nitrogen out of the strut thinking it should collapse the strut a little. No change. Rolling out of the hangar the strut not even compress a little. Flew multiple T&Gos and rolled the plane back in strut greatly extended.I couldn't even see the top of my tail which is my guide when parking. Went back 10 days later and the again, the strut was still fully extended. But heres the kicker, I grabbed on the prop (yes, by the hub) and lean in and swoosh, the strut goes from fully extended to what looks to be 2- 2.5" I attached a picture as you may see it differently. Maybe I let to much nitrogen out? Again, I just bumped it twice.

Plan- I have read where some shops don't change the upper o-ring or the crush washer under the schrader valve. I will make sure that is done, I want everything changed. As for the chrome, my strut chrome looks great but is there chrome inside the tube it rides in that can get pitted and cause problems?

This is super frustrating.



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Bad Schrader valve? Or not sealing properly against the strut body?

Could also be a damaged o-ring during installation. Any signs of oil on the piston?
 
Bad Schrader valve? Or not sealing properly against the strut body?

Could also be a damaged o-ring during installation. Any signs of oil on the piston?
No signs of oil. I’m going to get a new valve washer etc and have it all changed out.IMO, that should be part of a rebuild.
 
I like to keep the chrome clean on my strut with mineral spirits. It keeps it clean and lubricated to help the seals.
It sounds like you left too much nitrogen out. It doesn't take much.

Soap bubbles are good for finding leaks before you take anything apart.
 
No signs of oil.
Were there any issues prior to the annual?
Was the strut properly serviced with hydraulic fluid during the annual and after the seal replacement?
Did the new mechanic check the hydraulic level?
 
The
Were there any issues prior to the annual?
Was the strut properly serviced with hydraulic fluid during the annual and after the seal replacement?
Did the new mechanic check the hydraulic level?
The prebuy turned into Annual when I bought plane. The log entry says it was serviced with oil. And no, new mechanic just added nitrogen.
 
I like to keep the chrome clean on my strut with mineral spirits. It keeps it clean and lubricated to help the seals.
It sounds like you left too much nitrogen out. It doesn't take much.

Soap bubbles are good for finding leaks before you take anything apart.
I’m thinking I let to muck nitrogen out.
 
The Bogert Strut Service Kit works very well.

There is no removal of any valves so less chance of introducing a leak.

Note: You do have to jack the aircraft when using this method.

Strut Servicing IS an easy task that folks manage to screw up.
 
Change the core in the schrader valve when you pull it out to change the oring or crush washer. I've seen core leakage cause more maintenance time wasted while chasing strut and tire pressure problems. Also, when you service, do it exactly by the book.

On our jets at work, we have procedures to service struts and tires based whether the aircraft is on the ground or on a jack or jacks. There is a difference between service pressures for on the ground or jacked servicing.
 
The washer under the Schrader valve is ALUMINUM. It matters.

For my Warrior on the ground, nose wheel pressure should be around 125 psi.
 
The prebuy turned into Annual when I bought plane. The log entry says it was serviced with oil. And no, new mechanic just added nitrogen.
So possible this was a prior ongoing issue. The one thing that doesn't get much attention with struts is the servicing/replacing of the hydraulic fluid which can become quite nasty over time and cause issues. If you brought this to me, I would do a thorough flush of the hydraulic fluid first, then service/bleed that fluid per the manual. Then service the strut with nitrogen and see where you are at. Sometimes after extended periods with old contaminated hydraulic fluid the metering orifices get gunked up which throws off the internal flow. Unfortunately, if a complete fluid flush/reservice does not correct it, then it usually requires a bit more work on the strut beyond just the seals.
 
The washer under the Schrader valve is ALUMINUM. It matters.

For my Warrior on the ground, nose wheel pressure should be around 125 psi.
125? Seems quite low.
 
Sections 2-38, 2-39 and 2-41 of the Service manual gives the directions on how to service the nose strut. For hydraulic service, the nose gear must be off the ground and able to full extend without touching the ground. Pressurization after hydraulic service is done to a specific range of extension while the aircraft is on the ground and level. The actual pressure required is not given, only a required extension.
 
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