Good news & bad news

Tom-D

Taxi to Parking
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Tom-D
The good thing is when the poor solder job was corrected, the blue Mountain EFIS works.
The bad news is it's still a Blue mountain EFIS.
 

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Wow. That soldering job looks like something out of my Jr. High electronics class. :eek:
Worse, actually.
 
the whole harness is like that.
I was worried they had fried the innards of the instrument.
So now the question becomes "do we use it "?
 
Well, here is your problem with who soldered it:

aL2GwXM_700b.jpg
 
Well, here is your problem with who soldered it:

aL2GwXM_700b.jpg
OOOOOOOOOUUUUUUUUUCCCCCCCCCCCHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gets to show how much truth there is in advertising. I sure hope this phony ad wasn't for some kind of an education center. That would be ... um .... IRONY. :D
 
I worked at a place that gave me some soldering training. I figured I was already pretty good, but it was on a totally different scale.

I remember soldering a cable onto the back of one of these:

Bendix_Aircraft_Cannon_Plug_Connector_15512.jpg


I spent a long time getting it right and showed it to the inspector/trainer. She looked at it for a while and said, "That looks OK. Now give me three more."
 
By the EFIS, my bench isn't level.
 
I think the problem is with the lead content in the solder she is using
 
That is a stunningly bad solder job. Wow. And you say the whole harness is like that? Based on pictures of your earlier work, I assume you're redoing it all.

John
 
I try to avoid solder cup type connectors because I'm just not as good at soldering with one hand and a hook, but wow, its like they didn't even try.
 
That is a stunningly bad solder job. Wow. And you say the whole harness is like that? Based on pictures of your earlier work, I assume you're redoing it all.

John
Yes If I use the instrument I'll make new harness.
 
I hope that's a "before" picture. ;-)
I cleaned up the primary DB -25 connector and installed the + & - wire just to see if the EFIS would light up. I will make new harness for it after the new connectors arrive. If I do sell it the buyer will get a good system.
 
Don't you have to calibrate it in the aircraft?
Yes the installation manual is on line as to how to do that.that's how I found out which wires went where.
 
Hope that person didn't do any airframe or engine work!
yes it is typical of the whole aircraft. The structure is great, but systems not so much.

It has a better engine now, ready now for installation, and will get a complete new wire harness, alternator, dual electronic ignition, multi port fuel injection, upgrades will be added as we go.

as light as it is, it should be fast.

we'll see :)
pictures are of the old wire & harness new engine.
 

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Last edited:
Wow. That soldering job looks like something out of my Jr. High electronics class. :eek:
Worse, actually.
How does this look? more betta?
 

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I worked at a place that gave me some soldering training. I figured I was already pretty good, but it was on a totally different scale.

I remember soldering a cable onto the back of one of these:

Bendix_Aircraft_Cannon_Plug_Connector_15512.jpg


I spent a long time getting it right and showed it to the inspector/trainer. She looked at it for a while and said, "That looks OK. Now give me three more."
I've replaced many cannon plugs like that, soldering every wire and re-soldered open connections in the center of the plug numerous times. Very tedious work.
 
How does this look? more betta?

Are those cobwebs crossing over between the pins? I see little hairs there.

But you appear to have busted them off or whatever when the shrinkydink was added/finished up.
 
You want an honest answer? Those are incomplete solder joints, and you obviously didn't tin the wires first.

I thought it looked like three wires were tinned, but one is raw copper showing.

The solder joints looked like the solder used had way too much rosin content, and it contaminated the joints a bit, but they'd hold for a long time... They weren't perfect but they were a long sight better than what he started with.

I usually prefer less rosin core or none, and very small fine solder that even if I have to feed it really fast, makes a bit of a cleaner joint than those at the end.

And I have a lifetime supply of solder with lead in it, and only avoid using it if something is pre-tinned with the pansy no-lead RoHS crap that won't flow well with it. It just works better. I save the RoHS solder paste for the annoying tiny surface mount stuff that needs it.
 
You want an honest answer? Those are incomplete solder joints, and you obviously didn't tin the wires first.
How so? they positively were tinned. but I did touch pin with the iron that didn't need to be soldered.
 
How so? they positively were tinned. but I did touch pin with the iron that didn't need to be soldered.

So, I am by no means an expert, but I like to see a smooth transition from the connector to the wire and the solder flowed into the wire strands. So if you look at the second pin from the bottom of picture ending in 142707 you can see a space between the wire and the connector well. I think that should be filled with solder and the solder should be clearly bonded to the connector, no voids or gaps, there should essentially be a fillet there. The bottom pin is better, but it still looks like the wire and pin weren't quite hot enough or were dirty. Here is a picture of what I am trying to describe. You can see nice fillets and no voids or cold spots.


wire03.jpg
 
^^^

When I went through my training, that's what the inspector was looking for.

And on a connector with 50+ positions on the back, that's a pain.
 
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