Timing belt kit? (2010 Elantra)

bnt83

bnt83

Final Approach
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A friend of mine is up against some pretty difficult financial challenges, due to relentless health issues (mostly genetic), and her car is passed due for timing belt replacement. I'd like to prevent her car from self destructing, I see many different brands selling a kit, does anyone have any recommendations, cautions or other?
 
bnt83 said:
That's what it looks like. I'm betting there is a knockoff Chinese Gates and a real Gates brand.... :dunno:
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There is that risk, but Gates prices aren't really high enough of a premium to make it worthwhile.
 
Get the belt from Hyundai.
 
bnt83 said:
A friend of mine is up against some pretty difficult financial challenges, due to relentless health issues (mostly genetic), and her car is passed due for timing belt replacement. I'd like to prevent her car from self destructing, I see many different brands selling a kit, does anyone have any recommendations, cautions or other?
Click to expand...

I use:

parts.com
rockauto.com

parts.com usually lists OEM parts , rock auto has aftermarket.
 
RichNY said:
Get the belt from Hyundai.
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Replace the tensioner, too.

And anything else "normally" replaced with the belt. Some models turn the water pump with the timing belt, and getting coolant all over the belt is a good way to make it fail fast.

As for self destructing, do Hyundais have interference engines? Not all timing belt breaks or slips destroy the engine, though they always make the engine quit instantly.
 
Go with the kit that has all the other parts to replace at the time.
Gates is a good option.
If this is an interference engine get it done soon. If not you/she can wait It will most likely go way past change time.
 
I would get the belt from the dealer. It might cost literally a few extra dollars, but it's the absolute right OEM belt. The vast majority of the cost of a TB replacement is labor.
 
FWIW I generally buy OEM parts from RockAuto online for the same price that the generic parts are from the local auto parts stores.

Let me know when you're doing it and I can help out.
 
You need a:

10-12-14-17-22mm socket set and 10-12-14-17mm combination wrenches
1/2 drive impact gun (crank pulley)
jack so you can remove the front mount.

I would also get a water pump in addition to a FULL kit vs. belt.
Also, I always change the accessory belt at the same time.

Check all the seals for leakage while you are there.

Make sure you are #1 TDC and know all of the timing marks prior to removing the old belt.

MAKE SURE you understand how the timing belt tensioner pull pin (looks like a grenade pin) works before you pull it out. If you don't buy the kit you have to use a vise and compress the piston and retain it with an allen key or equivalent to reinstall.

Pretty easy job if you've done timing belts before, maybe four hours give or take.

Also, I use tiny little spring clamps to hold the belt on the alignment marks on the cam gears, makes it just a little easier while you're getting everything set.
 
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Alexb2000 said:
Also, I use tiny little spring clamps to hold the belt on the alignment marks on the cam gears, makes it just a little easier while you're getting everything set.
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Ooh, that's a good tip.

I'll have to try that on my next timing belt.

Getting it all lined up with the tensioner loose can be a PITA.
 
jesse said:
FWIW I generally buy OEM parts from RockAuto online for the same price that the generic parts are from the local auto parts stores.

Let me know when you're doing it and I can help out.
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Will do!
 
MAKG1 said:
Ooh, that's a good tip.

I'll have to try that on my next timing belt.

Getting it all lined up with the tensioner loose can be a PITA.
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Here is my other "super secret" timing belt trick. Most people just use an impact to R&R the crank pulley bolt. It works, but it's a little sloppy. The reason no one torques them to proper spec. is there is often no easy way to hold the pulley while turning the torque wrench.

I cut a piece of the old accessory belt long enough to wrap it around the crank pulley. Then I use a chain vise grip (with the extension chain) like this over the accessory belt.

http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-9-I...id=1415835463&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+vise+grip

Then you can hold the crank pulley all day, no damage, no special tools, no movement at all. Works on every vehicle.
 
Alexb2000 said:
You need a:

10-12-14-17-22mm socket set and 10-12-14-17mm combination wrenches
1/2 drive impact gun (crank pulley)
jack so you can remove the front mount.

I would also get a water pump in addition to a FULL kit vs. belt.
Also, I always change the accessory belt at the same time.

Check all the seals for leakage while you are there.

Make sure you are #1 TDC and know all of the timing marks prior to removing the old belt.

MAKE SURE you understand how the timing belt tensioner pull pin (looks like a grenade pin) works before you pull it out. If you don't buy the kit you have to use a vise and compress the piston and retain it with an allen key or equivalent to reinstall.

Pretty easy job if you've done timing belts before, maybe four hours give or take.

Also, I use tiny little spring clamps to hold the belt on the alignment marks on the cam gears, makes it just a little easier while you're getting everything set.
Click to expand...

I never thought of the spring clamp thing, thanks!
 
Alexb2000 said:
Here is my other "super secret" timing belt trick. Most people just use an impact to R&R the crank pulley bolt. It works, but it's a little sloppy. The reason no one torques them to proper spec. is there is often no easy way to hold the pulley while turning the torque wrench.

I cut a piece of the old accessory belt long enough to wrap it around the crank pulley. Then I use a chain vise grip (with the extension chain) like this over the accessory belt.

http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-9-I...id=1415835463&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+vise+grip

Then you can hold the crank pulley all day, no damage, no special tools, no movement at all. Works on every vehicle.
Click to expand...

If the vehicle has a stick, you can put it in top gear and yank the parking brake. There is a fair amount of slop in the driveline, but I've always been able to remove or tighten crank pulley bolts that way. Obviously, it doesn't work for FWDs on a lift.
 
FYI; I have recently acquired a 2011 Elantra for parts.
 
I'd change the water pump, too, with a new one (not rebuilt), either OEM or a reputable aftermarket manufacturer. You don't want a water leak in there by the timing belt. Bad news.

Gates sells complete kits with the belts, seals, tensioner, guides, water pump, and other associated doo-dads for most cars quite reasonably. It's not really a hard job for someone with mechanical skilz, but it's tedious and time-consuming enough that I wouldn't want to have to do it twice; so I suggest replacing everything while you're in there. The cost difference is trivial.

I'd probably change the accessory belt and inspect its tensioner and idler, as well.

Rich
 
RJM62 said:
I'd change the water pump, too, with a new one (not rebuilt), either OEM or a reputable aftermarket manufacturer. You don't want a water leak in there by the timing belt. Bad news.

Gates sells complete kits with the belts, seals, tensioner, guides, water pump, and other associated doo-dads for most cars quite reasonably. It's not really a hard job for someone with mechanical skilz, but it's tedious and time-consuming enough that I wouldn't want to have to do it twice; so I suggest replacing everything while you're in there. The cost difference is trivial.

I'd probably change the accessory belt and inspect its tensioner and idler, as well.

Rich
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I'm well schooled on timing belt driven water pump failures. It happened on a my Intrepid years ago. I fixed it myself, and boy did it SUCK. There were molten chunks of rubber stuck to virtually everything.
 
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My coworkers just slipped, valves ate the pistions. Car going to the ummm... I'm not supposed to use the J word.... what's it called... recycle center
 
I could check the manual, but what's the recommended mileage to do this?
 
Alexb2000 said:
Definitely double check, but just from memory Hyundai's are almost always every 60K.
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Most Kias and Hyundais with timing belts have a 60K interval. A few are 90K, but 60K with "severe use." I'm pretty sure they calculate it based on a one percent failure rate at the stated interval.

It's not something I like to take chances with. My experience with Kia and Hyundai engines and drivetrains is that they're pretty much bulletproof if maintained properly, and they tend to be pretty easy to maintain. But most are interference engines, so if the belt fails, chances are pretty good that they'll swallow a valve.

As a slightly tangential aside, one of the quirks of Kia and Hyundai engines that I've found to be true is that they're among the few engines that really need OEM oil filters. Every one I've owned ticked with aftermarket filters, and I mean high-end filters like Wix, not cheap crap. Apparently the OEM filters have a mechanism to control the flow at low RPM to keep the oil pressure up.

Luckily, you can get the OEM filters on the cheap if you buy them in quantity. I bought half a dozen from a Kia dealer in Connecticut and they came out to a bit under $6.00 each. (They also happen to be excellent filters.)

Anyway, back on-topic, I've found the Kia / Hyundai engines to be worth taking care of. They're well-built, reliable engines, and they don't ask for much in terms of maintenance. A pre-emptive timing belt / water pump change every 60 is well worth the investment, in my opinion.

Rich
 
Wow, 60K awful young to need major surgery. Previous (2002, I think) Elantra was traded at 98K or so, never had any issue, nor belt replacement. 2010 has already had tranny replaced around 30K.

Anyone remember when engines had timing CHAINS?
 
paflyer said:
Wow, 60K awful young to need major surgery. Previous (2002, I think) Elantra was traded at 98K or so, never had any issue, nor belt replacement. 2010 has already had tranny replaced around 30K.

Anyone remember when engines had timing CHAINS?
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Yep, I drive a 3.4l 2002 impala.

228,000 miles and counting. Never had a transmission failure or major engine problem.

Engine hoses, spark plugs, wires, waterpump, vacuum leaks, two fuel pumps.

A BCM did die once, but I'm pretty sure I influenced it while installing a remote starter. :vomit: never doing that again.
 
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bnt83 said:
Yep, I drive a 3.4l 2002 impala.

228,000 miles and counting. Never had a transmission failure or major engine problem.

Engine hoses, spark plugs, wires, waterpump, vacuum leaks, two fuel pumps.
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Folks can say what they will, but the GM V6 FWD drivetrains tend to be bulletproof. My sister's Lumina has a couple hundred thousand extreme-abuse miles, and while the car looks horrid (she drives by Braille, no body panel undamaged), it runs great, smooth, peppy and amazingly efficient.
 
paflyer said:
Wow, 60K awful young to need major surgery. Previous (2002, I think) Elantra was traded at 98K or so, never had any issue, nor belt replacement. 2010 has already had tranny replaced around 30K.

Anyone remember when engines had timing CHAINS?
Click to expand...

They broke as well. The difference is that these engines are 'interference' engines, the valves and piston use the the same space at different times. When you break a belt, you can economically destroy the engine.
 
SCCutler said:
Folks can say what they will, but the GM V6 FWD drivetrains tend to be bulletproof. My sister's Lumina has a couple hundred thousand extreme-abuse miles, and while the car looks horrid (she drives by Braille, no body panel undamaged), it runs great, smooth, peppy and amazingly efficient.
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The body on the 02 impala is amazing virtually rust-free.

My dad has a 98 Lumina in pretty good shape (needs carpet)

My brother also has a Lumina. His shifts kinda hard which is funky but its been doing it for probably 5 years now and still going fine.
 
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My Corolla has a timing chain. It's a life-of-the-vehicle part as far as I understand. My 2003 Corolla with 223k miles that I sold recently was still on the original. I don't even know if it was ever even inspected.

Why wouldn't all cars use timing chains? Is it a cost/weight issue or is there a disadvantage to the chains?
 
RJM62 said:
I'd change the water pump, too, with a new one (not rebuilt), either OEM or a reputable aftermarket manufacturer. You don't want a water leak in there by the timing belt. Bad news.

Gates sells complete kits with the belts, seals, tensioner, guides, water pump, and other associated doo-dads for most cars quite reasonably. It's not really a hard job for someone with mechanical skilz, but it's tedious and time-consuming enough that I wouldn't want to have to do it twice; so I suggest replacing everything while you're in there. The cost difference is trivial.

I'd probably change the accessory belt and inspect its tensioner and idler, as well.

Rich
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I just did my 05 Tundra... Had 150,000 and the belt I took off was in such good shape I bet it would have made 300 grand... 130.00 dollar Kit had belt, tensioner, new water pump, all gaskets, other stuff.... and good instructions. Probably took 3.5 hours.... Piece of cake.....

At the same time I did my first brake job on it... Local NAPA dealer wanted 25.00 bucks to turn each front rotor.. Bought two new ones at Rock Auto for 17 bucks each,,, with new pads the job cost me 60 bucks or so.... Pads would have made 250,000 or more....... I should be dead by the time the next major maintenance items need to be addressed.. That makes it someone else's problem...:rolleyes:
 
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