Thinking About a Boat

http://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-Trailer-Guide-Pole-Only/dp/B004XAH9F2

Sounds like no fatalities. That's always good. These things are very useful in windy conditions. Also helpful when you are doing it yourself.

For the rollers, you can make a metal shim for the frame where the axle rides on the brace(you know what I mean when you look down there. This will keep the rollers in the right pitch for the boat to roll up on. Takes an hour or so to make. Mark the roller location with the boat on, then make the shim and install the next time you go to the lake and have the boat off the trailer. Take new bolts and nuts for the roller axle because they often are corroded and snap when removed. Some have a stainless axle with a clevis pin and a few washers, just pull the clevis and the axle and make an angled shim then put the shim under the brace and onto the axle to keep it in place.

<edit: for when you go out over the weekend(and you will soon), I've owned one of these for 23 years, and it's got a ton of use on it. It's cast Al, which makes it surprisingly light, it folds up to carry really easy, and has a built in stand. It'll cook a ton of stuff for 4 folks. I've had everything from steak, to pork, cans, and of course lots of fish grilled over the years. http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57301-O...12325&sr=1-12&keywords=portable+propane+grill >
 
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Remember, there is no 'slipping' in a crosswind or current, it's pure 'crab and kick'. When you have forward motion on the boat the pivot center is about 1/3rd back from the bow (this moves aft to about 1/3rd of the way fwd from the stern with stern way on and moves through center at low and translational speed) so when you set your lineup crabbing in, you want that point to be tracking the trailer's extended centerline. Now, for the kick, you have two options, you can either use forward thrust or reverse thrust. Due to the nature of vectored thrust with an Outdrive though, to use both is very difficult to do since you have to reverse the helm to keep from getting sideways to the trailer. Unless you have a suicide knob, hydraulic steering, and good timing, it's tricky. It's usually easiest to carry extra inertia and a slightly high line so you can use reverse to straighten and slow you as you glide onto the bunks. Of course, this is also the one that takes the highest level of judgement.:lol:
 
Sorry Ted but no photos no boat! And we want some panel shots!


As for a name how about

- Watch This
or
-ATITPPA
 
facebook-20140824-185718.png

Boat. This is Jesse doing all the work while I screw up ramming the thing onto the trailer.

The panel has nothing special besides a fish finder. Jesse suggested I add a JPI for fuel flow. Actually, the stock gauges on it I don't like much, so I might eventually put on some different ones. That's very low on the priority list, though.
 
Nobody hurt and nothing broken. A great day!! Don't worry too much about all the scuffs you'll get learning the trailer loading and tying up at docks. A whole lot of them polish out pretty easy. Most look way worse than they really are. The good news is, you bought an older boat and not a brand new boat, so there are not as likely to be tears at the first permanent mark!:lol:

I just got back after a 125 mile ride with a few friends. I love my boats nearly as much as the plane. Ultimately, I'm sure I'll be boating long after I eventually have to be grounded.
 
Dav8or said:
The good news is, you bought an older boat and not a brand new boat, so there are not as likely to be tears at the first permanent mark!:lol:
Click to expand...

Exactly! :D
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Will that work for guiding the boat as well or do I need something stronger? Given that this is fairly tall, I wonder if 40" is enough. That does give me the idea of putting tape on the poles to get the depth right.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure those are what I first thought. They are fairly short. Other poles I've seen are somewhat longer. Also, the depth of the trailer is dependent on the angle of the ramp. Not everything works everywhere. My method is to back up until I see the transom of the boat floating, and then go another 3-5' back seems to work well.

This might be even better, as these are bunks that will guide it straight on.

http://www.amazon.com/BUNK-GUIDE-ON...408927849&sr=1-8&keywords=trailer+guide+bunks

Using these, you get the boat on the winch and pull it forward, then it self-centers as you drive forward. Good in windy conditions, and more durable than just the poles.
 
docmirror said:
I'm not sure those are what I first thought. They are fairly short. Other poles I've seen are somewhat longer. Also, the depth of the trailer is dependent on the angle of the ramp. Not everything works everywhere. My method is to back up until I see the transom of the boat floating, and then go another 3-5' back seems to work well.

This might be even better, as these are bunks that will guide it straight on.

http://www.amazon.com/BUNK-GUIDE-ON...408927849&sr=1-8&keywords=trailer+guide+bunks

Using these, you get the boat on the winch and pull it forward, then it self-centers as you drive forward. Good in windy conditions, and more durable than just the poles.
Click to expand...

I did some measuring. 4' would be ok, but 5' would really be better. Surprisingly, I'm not seeing much on Amazon that long. I suppose I could always make something relatively cheaply using parts from Lowes.

But, those side guide-ons look good, as well. I think that really I would like the pair somehow. Side bars that would ideally be strong enough to be able to lean on some (maybe I could make my own so I can get enough height?), plus those side guides to help guide the thing in.I might order those sides so I can put them on in time for next weekend and see how they are.

A few more squawks I could use some help with:

1) I need new bow stops. Any recommendations on type? The old ones are really torn up and a generic basic rubber. Looks like it's cheap enough to buy some nicer ones at under $10/each on iBoat, or will those just get torn up, too?

2) The road cover is pretty torn up as well and would be best just thrown out. I'm thinking it would be good to buy another cover, and probably better would be a full boat cover since the boat will be stored outdoors. Any recommendations?

3) The glass for the hatch has come loose from the hinged hatch (bought it that way), been siliconed in and come off again. I'm going to silicone it back in. Is there some particularly good silicone for this sort of application, or can I just go for a general good type at Lowes? Only thing with this glass is that it ends up getting pushed on to open up the hatch, so the silicone ends up actually taking a decent amount of pressure

I'm going to look at the rollers and figure out what exactly I'd need for making some good shims, and then I can buy the pars.

Edit: 5' wide won't fit on the trailer - it's over 5 feet since it's a tandem axle. So I'd either need to get 6-7', or two separate ones.
 
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1. Can't help, maybe take a pic?

2. Towing covers don't last if you actually use it while towing. More of a parking cover, but the sun does a job on it. What I did because I got tired of buying the same crap every 5 years was to go down to the Army/Navy surplus store and buy real, honest, heavy canvas. Then, since it's lightly oiled, I had a liner sewed on the inside to protect the boat. That thing lasted forever and I was sad to sell the boat with the ugly green cover. But - it would last forever.

3. Get a piece of Al or SS slender plate stock and backstop the hinges on the inside, then use SS screws, washers and nylock nuts. As for silicone the only thing you want is 3M 5200. Nothing else will come close, but it's costly.

Before you have the silicone in your hand and cut the nipple, take a look at the interior walls for some light staining from leaks on the bow rail stanchions. The bow rails are held down with SS screws into the FG cap. When you find the leak stain down the wall, look above and find the bow rail stanchion that is the culprit. Back the three screws out, put a dab of silicone around the screws then screw them back down, and wipe off the excess.

Another good place for silicone is where the swim step bolts to the transom. However do NOT take the screws out if they are absolutely not leaking. You'll just make it worse, but if you find one that is leaking or staining the hull, I would start with some silicone over the top of the screw first.

next, with the drive in the all the way up position, get a high intensity light, and look up inside the drive at the boot. It's where the gimbal housing ends, and the outdrive pivots. Inspect that boot carefully for small cracks as you would see on the side of an old tire. For this drive, the boot is both the exhaust bellows and the water discharge(partial) and tears, or cracks here can be costly later.

Last, at the outdrive, locate the lube check port. It may be a dipstick right on the top of the outdrive with a screw slot, or it may be a small screw plug into the side of the gearcase depending on the age of the outdrive. Either way, take that out, and check the color and consistency of the lube. There cannot be ANY water mixed in. Anything that looks like emulsified water has to be checked by a boat shop. It needs to be really, really clean and oil looking. If it's a dipstick, of course, check the level, if it's a side port it will likely say "min level -- " or similar next to the port. If you have any questions about this lube, take a sample to the boat shop and ask them. Re-sealing an outdrive is 1/10 the cost of rebuilding it later.

Item 17 on this drive, or item 11 on an earlier model. <edit; The absolute best way is to take the bottom plug out, and be ready for some lube to come out. Since water falls to the bottom, this would be more likely to see any water inside the drive. Just be ready to catch the lube, and put it back in the drive. Also might want to have a new o-ring ready to replace on the service port before removing. >

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury-marine-diagrams/img/mercruiser/17721/11.gif
 
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Ted DuPuis said:
Edit: 5' wide won't fit on the trailer - it's over 5 feet since it's a tandem axle. So I'd either need to get 6-7', or two separate ones.
Click to expand...

Contact the company, I'm sure they make them for tandem trailers as well, just a longer board.
 
Ted, Please be sure to have all necessary safety equipment including, Plenty of life vests and other flotation, throw ring and extinguisher.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
View attachment 35395

Boat. This is Jesse doing all the work while I screw up ramming the thing onto the trailer.

The panel has nothing special besides a fish finder. Jesse suggested I add a JPI for fuel flow. Actually, the stock gauges on it I don't like much, so I might eventually put on some different ones. That's very low on the priority list, though.
Click to expand...

Flowscan makes a tach/fuel flow instrument. Don't worry about any of it, what the panel has for engine gauges works well enough until you put in the 500hp boost upgrade (oh yeah, Nitrous is your friend on a turbocharged boat otherwise coming out of the hole can be difficult if propped for speed.):D
 
IMG_20140824_205750.jpg

Here's the bow stop I'm referring to.

I'll contact the company about longer side rails, good idea. I could probably make my own, too, but if they'll make 6-7' ones, then all the better.
 
Ok, found what I need:

http://www.cesmith.com/product/208/bunks/27600K75

That plus some carpet and 2x4s and I'm set. Probably add some posts for good measure.

They also offer them in 90 degree version. I'm thinking the 75 degree should be more what I want, thoughts? Probably should double check the hull where they'd hit, but I'm pretty sure 75 degree about matches the side.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Ok, found what I need:

http://www.cesmith.com/product/208/bunks/27600K75

That plus some carpet and 2x4s and I'm set. Probably add some posts for good measure.

They also offer them in 90 degree version. I'm thinking the 75 degree should be more what I want, thoughts? Probably should double check the hull where they'd hit, but I'm pretty sure 75 degree about matches the side.
Click to expand...

Side rails are a mixed bag, yeah, if you can manage to stay within a larger tolerance you can bumper boat your way up in there. However if you get outside parameters you chances of doing expensive or PITA levels of damage increase with the potential of splitting a 2x4 and puncturing the hull or it going into the drive or half a dozen odd situations you can get into with those elevated rails. It won't take long to learn to handle the boat, just remember you have both vectored thrust and prop walk (in reveres, the back of the boat will 'walk' on the bottom blades spinning that direction), only minimum steering when not in gear, and if you have a good swing going for a docking and you go into reverse without swapping the helm, you're going to yank the bow to the outside of the turn and screw up your swing. If you need to get the bow to rotate away from the dock going into reverse, you have to have the back of the props pointed that direction first. It should back around to port tighter than starboard. This is where I see most people mess up on a docking, putting it in reverse without setting the helm for it and stuffing the bow into the dock. Same stuff applies coming onto the trailer. When you stick it in reverse even lined up straight forward, the stern is going to come to port, so as you kick in reverse, you give it a little helm to Stbd.
 
Henning said:
When you stick it in reverse even lined up straight forward, the stern is going to come to port, so as you kick in reverse, you give it a little helm to Stbd.
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On my little 21' bowrider at docking speeds, even full stbd helm won't keep it from walking to port in reverse. As such, in close quarters where I need to spin the boat around, I always spin it clockwise and work the steering lock to lock while I work the lever between forward and reverse.

On the large (40-50) ft sailboats I've chartered, I just leave the helm hard stbd and give decent alternating shots of forward and reverse to spin the boat in it's own length.

Twin screw boats are a whole lot easier to deal with in tight quarters, and bow thrusters help on the big ones.
 
I can see the guides being a mixed bag, part of why I figure the guides and goal posts might help things. Part of the issue I felt was having a poor idea where the trailer was. So, the goal posts might be the most useful in that regard. I could see both being helpful.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
I can see the guides being a mixed bag, part of why I figure the guides and goal posts might help things. Part of the issue I felt was having a poor idea where the trailer was. So, the goal posts might be the most useful in that regard. I could see both being helpful.
Click to expand...

It's like 3 pointing a taildragger. You look at the head post and have faith that what you can't see is where it has to be.
 
Keep in mind that I also want to make it easy on helpers who may be on the boat side or the winch side, depending. Ideally make things quick and easy for getting in/out fast.
 
I never had a bit of trouble with my guide bunks. I used them because I always launch and recover by myself. Sometimes in the wind, you need to do things quickly when getting the boat back on the trailer, and the guide bunks really helped the situation where I didn't worry about the boat wandering as I ran up over the deck to the winch.

I did it alone because like you, I had a wife and little kids, and the safest thing to do was let them out on the courtesy dock, go get the trailer backed in, then go back to the dock and move the boat onto the trailer, then run up and secure it to the winch and draw it up, then hop in the truck and pull it forward.

The goal posts are fine to help you know where things are, but they don't do much in wind because they flex. Just make sure before you pull the truck forward is the boat is pretty much centered on the trailer. If you see it swung over to the side, it might be riding over the guide bunk, and that would cause problems. It also means you're too deep on the ramp. This is particularly true when you have roller bunks on the trailer which will actually roll some as the boat works up the trailer under low power.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
View attachment 35398

Here's the bow stop I'm referring to.

I'll contact the company about longer side rails, good idea. I could probably make my own, too, but if they'll make 6-7' ones, then all the better.
Click to expand...

http://cesmith.com/product/357/y-stop/29551

Bow stop from the same co. The center bolt between those two stops is designed to allow the armature to pivot. This is a nice feature because once you get the bow stop replaced, you can winch it all the way forward and as the boat angles up the trailer when you pull forward, the bow stops will pivot with the boat. When you replace it, replace all your bolts with SS.
 
Good points. I need to measure to see whether 3" is the right dimension. I think it is, but better to check.

I can see both sides of the bunks argument. I also think that they'll be useful for me. So I'll need to figure out the best way to do it. Probably order the 75 degree ones from CE Smith and make my own.
 
Ok, thanks.

Decided to go ahead and order the 75 degree bunk guide-on kit and the new bow stops. We'll just do that for the moment and see how it goes. Plus a trip to Tractor Supply/Harbor Freight for some other trailer parts I need.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
1) I need new bow stops. Any recommendations on type? The old ones are really torn up and a generic basic rubber. Looks like it's cheap enough to buy some nicer ones at under $10/each on iBoat, or will those just get torn up, too?

I like the Polyurethane bow stops. They last longer and don't leave as bad of a mark. Like this one-

2202_59569.jpg


2) The road cover is pretty torn up as well and would be best just thrown out. I'm thinking it would be good to buy another cover, and probably better would be a full boat cover since the boat will be stored outdoors. Any recommendations?

I bought a mooring cover from Carver Covers and it fits great and so far so good. I payed extra for the Sunbrella material that is very UV resistant. My boat is outside 24/7. You just have to expect that you will be buying new covers from time to time.

3) The glass for the hatch has come loose from the hinged hatch (bought it that way), been siliconed in and come off again. I'm going to silicone it back in. Is there some particularly good silicone for this sort of application, or can I just go for a general good type at Lowes? Only thing with this glass is that it ends up getting pushed on to open up the hatch, so the silicone ends up actually taking a decent amount of pressure.

Doc's advice above about 3M 5200 and the hardware is spot on.
Click to expand...

Good luck and happy boating!
 
Bill Jennings said:
On my little 21' bowrider at docking speeds, even full stbd helm won't keep it from walking to port in reverse.
Click to expand...

I have this problem too in my 19' bowrider. It makes it a pain to pull it into my boat lift because the distance between the floats is narrow. I eventual just came to accept that the port stern was always going to bump the port float, so I padded the float and bring the boat in very, very slow to minimize the amount of reverse needed. However with a good cross wind, I have to use a bit more speed to keep from drifting.
 
N747JB said:
My son couldn't stand it any longer, he HAD to name our 29 foot center console, which we have owned, un-named for 11 years. It's now "Knot Today" :) Our fishing boat is "The Bounty Hunter" same as our last one, we already had the shirts and hats. :D

Click to expand...


I named my boat Jamaican Minute.. If you have spent any time in the islands, if someone says it'll be a minute, better give it an hour. So, trying to get anywhere on a sailboat, it took a Jamaican Minute to get there
 
docmirror said:
1. Can't help, maybe take a pic?

2. Towing covers don't last if you actually use it while towing. More of a parking cover, but the sun does a job on it. What I did because I got tired of buying the same crap every 5 years was to go down to the Army/Navy surplus store and buy real, honest, heavy canvas. Then, since it's lightly oiled, I had a liner sewed on the inside to protect the boat. That thing lasted forever and I was sad to sell the boat with the ugly green cover. But - it would last forever.

3. Get a piece of Al or SS slender plate stock and backstop the hinges on the inside, then use SS screws, washers and nylock nuts. As for silicone the only thing you want is 3M 5200. Nothing else will come close, but it's costly.

Before you have the silicone in your hand and cut the nipple, take a look at the interior walls for some light staining from leaks on the bow rail stanchions. The bow rails are held down with SS screws into the FG cap. When you find the leak stain down the wall, look above and find the bow rail stanchion that is the culprit. Back the three screws out, put a dab of silicone around the screws then screw them back down, and wipe off the excess.

Another good place for silicone is where the swim step bolts to the transom. However do NOT take the screws out if they are absolutely not leaking. You'll just make it worse, but if you find one that is leaking or staining the hull, I would start with some silicone over the top of the screw first.

next, with the drive in the all the way up position, get a high intensity light, and look up inside the drive at the boot. It's where the gimbal housing ends, and the outdrive pivots. Inspect that boot carefully for small cracks as you would see on the side of an old tire. For this drive, the boot is both the exhaust bellows and the water discharge(partial) and tears, or cracks here can be costly later.

Last, at the outdrive, locate the lube check port. It may be a dipstick right on the top of the outdrive with a screw slot, or it may be a small screw plug into the side of the gearcase depending on the age of the outdrive. Either way, take that out, and check the color and consistency of the lube. There cannot be ANY water mixed in. Anything that looks like emulsified water has to be checked by a boat shop. It needs to be really, really clean and oil looking. If it's a dipstick, of course, check the level, if it's a side port it will likely say "min level -- " or similar next to the port. If you have any questions about this lube, take a sample to the boat shop and ask them. Re-sealing an outdrive is 1/10 the cost of rebuilding it later.

Item 17 on this drive, or item 11 on an earlier model. <edit; The absolute best way is to take the bottom plug out, and be ready for some lube to come out. Since water falls to the bottom, this would be more likely to see any water inside the drive. Just be ready to catch the lube, and put it back in the drive. Also might want to have a new o-ring ready to replace on the service port before removing. >

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury-marine-diagrams/img/mercruiser/17721/11.gif
Click to expand...


Be careful with 5200.. it's a pretty permanent bond. Stanchions etc might need replaced at some time.. I'd bed them with either 4200 or butyl tape.
 
good point.. this thread makes me miss sailing.. but i have to say im glad to be rid of that slip rent bill
 
sferguson524 said:
Be careful with 5200.. it's a pretty permanent bond. Stanchions etc might need replaced at some time.. I'd bed them with either 4200 or butyl tape.
Click to expand...

Whatev.

In 36 years, I've had to replace ONE stanchion. Go ahead, doesn't matter to me, let it leak.
 
i had to replace a couple on my catalina 30. PO thought it a good idea to come into the slip under power, jump off boat and stop it with the stanchions.
 
AdamZ said:
Ted, Please be sure to have all necessary safety equipment including, Plenty of life vests and other flotation, throw ring and extinguisher.
Click to expand...

I thought beer was the only required safety equipment? :dunno: :D

Yes, we have all the legally required items.
 
The window itself doesn't move relative to what it's bedded into. So, stronger is better. 5200 it is.
 
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