Thinking About a Boat

docmirror said:
It's 3" you can trust me.
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Just measured - 4". Oops. Better see if I can change my order tomorrow first thing before they ship it.
 
Bill Jennings said:
Jeeze, was that picture taken on a 110 Instamatic with three year old film? :lol:

Glad you had a good time! We were grounded Saturday (VCTS), but got out on the lake Sunday afternoon. Good times!
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Also, I thought is was against some sort of boating law to take pics without babes in bikinis? Don't think I have ever seen a pic of a boat without one.

Or maybe those are the ones that catch my attention. :redface:
 
docmirror said:
What! Sorry, it sure looked like 3. 4" is pretty unusual.
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I'm just an unusual boat kinda guy. :)

Not a problem. if they already shipped it, then I'll just order the right ones and figure out something else to do with the others. I'm sure I can find someone else who needs them.
 
Now that you're a boat owner you should probably watch the movie Captain Ron. It's like the Airplane of boating.

"If it's gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there!"
 
Called them up and they changed the order, no problem and didn't even charge me the price difference. Easy. I'll do business with them again.
 
Did some work this week on the trailer:

1) New LED taillights (much nicer)
2) New winch. Old one was electric if you plugged it in, but super slow and I really didn't like the way it worked. Jesse figured it was an accident waiting to happen. New one is 2500 lb rated and dual speed - 5:1 and 12:1.
3) New bow stops (4" ;) )
4) 7-pin hitch connector. Easier since that's what the truck has, and also gets it set up for when I eventually convert to electric brakes (figure a next year project)

The trailer is looking much nicer, although now the rust and paint falling off is becoming more obvious. A project one year might be to let a body shop go over it if I'm so inclined, but it certainly doesn't have any structural concerns, and we have some work on the boat we'd want to do first.

I bought the side rail kit, which is basically just the brackets and metal. I have it started, but tomorrow I need to buy the wood for it. Normally 2x4s are used, but I'm wondering if I should buy 2x6s. Some extra strength in the wood and also just distributes the load a bit more on the boat. Thoughts?

Watching the weather this weekend, we figure we'll take the boat out one day.
 
If you have good surge hyd brakes I would leave them alone, and just do the mx on it. I've never been a fan of elec brakes on a boat trailer. But - it's up to you.

The boards can be 2x6, it'll work fine. If you can get pressure treated that is better as well. Countersink the carriage bolts well so you don't take a risk on damaging the gel coat if it rubs a bit.
 
I figure I'll see what I think about the surge brakes after a few more uses. The problem with GMs, especially 1/2-tons, is that the brakes on them are ****, and this is on a braking system that I've completely gone through. Maybe I should try converting to disks first and see how that does. Either way, a future project.

I think I'll buy the 2x6s and go from there. Pressure treated makes sense. The kit came with carpeting to cover them with for less chance of damage to the hull. Looks like it will work nicely.
 
For your rusting trailer, I have seen people refinish them by having a body shop spray them with bed liner. Much tougher than paint and powder coat. People that dip their trailers in the ocean and don't have galvanized do this and it holds up pretty well. It's not as pretty as good paint though.
 
No electric brakes on a boat trailer. They all have hydraulic for a reason.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
I figure I'll see what I think about the surge brakes after a few more uses. The problem with GMs, especially 1/2-tons, is that the brakes on them are ****, and this is on a braking system that I've completely gone through. Maybe I should try converting to disks first and see how that does. Either way, a future project.

I think I'll buy the 2x6s and go from there. Pressure treated makes sense. The kit came with carpeting to cover them with for less chance of damage to the hull. Looks like it will work nicely.
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I would try a full PM on those trailer brakes and see how that goes. Plenty of these trailers when you take the drums off (if you can) are just solid rust, funk, and doing nothing to slow you down. Good news is that it isn't real expensive to totally rebuild them as long as your actuator is good. Working right, I bet you'd be happy with them as is.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Did some work this week on the trailer:

1) New LED taillights (much nicer)
2) New winch. Old one was electric if you plugged it in, but super slow and I really didn't like the way it worked. Jesse figured it was an accident waiting to happen. New one is 2500 lb rated and dual speed - 5:1 and 12:1.
3) New bow stops (4" ;) )
4) 7-pin hitch connector. Easier since that's what the truck has, and also gets it set up for when I eventually convert to electric brakes (figure a next year project)

The trailer is looking much nicer, although now the rust and paint falling off is becoming more obvious. A project one year might be to let a body shop go over it if I'm so inclined, but it certainly doesn't have any structural concerns, and we have some work on the boat we'd want to do first.

I bought the side rail kit, which is basically just the brackets and metal. I have it started, but tomorrow I need to buy the wood for it. Normally 2x4s are used, but I'm wondering if I should buy 2x6s. Some extra strength in the wood and also just distributes the load a bit more on the boat. Thoughts?

Watching the weather this weekend, we figure we'll take the boat out one day.
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I can't recall seeing a boat trailer with electric brakes.
 
Another vote for 3M 5200 for the hatch window. If you can, remove, clean old junk off, lay it back in place, mask off for a nice bead, remove, lay in a generous bead, then prepare to get dirty...

For 5200 jobs I would have a roll of paper towels, dedicated trash bag, and wet my finger with WD40 for "tooling" the joint (As I recall, water/humidity accelerates the set of 5200 and WD works gook for clean up, too*).

Wipe finger along mask line / joint until finger is "full", wipe off finger with new paper towel, throw paper towel away, repeat until all the way around. When bead is thin at tape line all the way around, pull the tape and throw away.

Someone holding open the trash is helpful. Long strips of tape with 5200 on them are unruly. The crap will get everywhere. Clean hands with WD...

*i guess I am assuming the WD won't harm hatch plastic...
 
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Alexb2000 said:
I would try a full PM on those trailer brakes and see how that goes. Plenty of these trailers when you take the drums off (if you can) are just solid rust, funk, and doing nothing to slow you down. Good news is that it isn't real expensive to totally rebuild them as long as your actuator is good. Working right, I bet you'd be happy with them as is.
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Point taken, the old brakes probably need some work, makes sense. How do you feel about disk brake conversions?

The trailer will be another question. My friend had his redone by a body shop recently - looks good and was economical. Mine doesn't look horrible, so another year or two before I'll do that.
 
I've also been reading about plenty of boat trailers with electric, but the system's a bit different - basically an electric master cylinder replaces the surge part.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
I've also been reading about plenty of boat trailers with electric, but the system's a bit different - basically an electric master cylinder replaces the surge part.
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That may work nicely, never used one. The only issue I have ever had with surge brakes is if you need to back the trailer up a hill, you have to get out and hit the lock out so the trailer doesn't slide forward in the actuator. Outside of that, just keep them clean, serviced and adjusted like any other. The one advantage I can see with electric actuation is that you can drag the brakes for a a short way after hauling out to get them dry, but that's such a minor issue I'm not sure the electric wont have more negative that outweighs it.
 
Henning said:
That may work nicely, never used one. The only issue I have ever had with surge brakes is if you need to back the trailer up a hill, you have to get out and hit the lock out so the trailer doesn't slide forward in the actuator. .
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Not on newer trailers. Mine plugs into the 7-way connector and uses the backup light input to throw a solenoid that automatically locks out the brakes when backing. Works well.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Point taken, the old brakes probably need some work, makes sense. How do you feel about disk brake conversions?

The trailer will be another question. My friend had his redone by a body shop recently - looks good and was economical. Mine doesn't look horrible, so another year or two before I'll do that.
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My Baja trailer had disks. Stopped great, BUT in order to back up you had to wire your truck reverse lights into an actuator that released the calipers. PITA. 99% of the time when people say drum brakes don't work very well the drums are worn over size and/or out of adjustment. My semi's with fresh drums and proper adjustment would stop 80,000' on a dime. I would just rebuild the brakes, pack bearings, flush the fluid, paint it all, soak it with LPS3, and spend that upgrade money elsewhere.
 
Ok, then I'll look at the drum brakes and see what I can do there first, we'll see. I suppose the brakes are doing something, but they aren't great. I'm sure they need adjustment/refurbishment.

Hoping to go out this weekend, but tomorrow is the only day that looks good. That makes me think the lake will be packed, so we'll just play it by ear.
 
A well-maintained surge brake system should suffice. When we were pulling the 22,000lb NH3 trailers down the highway with 3/4 T pickups, all we had was the standard Chevy pickup brakes and the hydraulic surge brakes - and that was without any trailer weight on the tongue. You could definitely tell the difference between good brakes and bad brakes on the trailers. Good brakes would be a non-event when slowing down on loose gravel roads. Bad brakes were some major pucker factor and adverse yaw.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Ok, then I'll look at the drum brakes and see what I can do there first, we'll see. I suppose the brakes are doing something, but they aren't great. I'm sure they need adjustment/refurbishment.

Hoping to go out this weekend, but tomorrow is the only day that looks good. That makes me think the lake will be packed, so we'll just play it by ear.
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Tonight, tomorrow, and Monday look best for us. I'm planning on the hat trick! Oh, and was out last night after work as well!

Watched a guy in a Lake buzzing around, doing landings, and just having a good time.
 
Tonight looks good as well, but evenings don't work for us. Could always try tomorrow and maybe Monday if it holds out as well...
 
Surge brakes work great. Until after the first time you immerse them in water.

They are a major mechanical nightmare. And don't even get me going on salt water!
 
kgruber said:
Surge brakes work great. Until after the first time you immerse them in water.

They are a major mechanical nightmare. And don't even get me going on salt water!
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Any breaking system that you dunk in the water and then pull it out and let it sit in the sun all day before really using it again is going to be problematic. Metal moving parts that corrode.
 
Fortunately, we're all fresh water and planning on keeping it that way. Boat hasn't seen salt in 27 years of life, no reason to start now.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Fortunately, we're all fresh water and planning on keeping it that way. Boat hasn't seen salt in 27 years of life, no reason to start now.
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Much of the problems with my jetski were because of salt water. Something I didn't think you had to worry about in Nebraska. The ski had capital beach stickers on it, little did I know, that capitol beach lake in lincoln is salt water.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Fortunately, we're all fresh water and planning on keeping it that way. Boat hasn't seen salt in 27 years of life, no reason to start now.
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Do you have raw water cooling or a heat exchanger and antifreeze?
 
Also got the side braces on tonight. I think they're going to work well and make things easier, we'll find out for sure tomorrow. Then we'll see if we think we want/need the goal posts. I'm figuring we'll want them, but we'll find out for sure after trying it out.
 
Jeff Oslick said:
Small sailboats aren't nearly as expensive to operate as the same size power boats, if you start with decent rigging and take care of it. In fact, in the 20' range I'd be tempted to not have a motor, or at most a very small one for emergency use.
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I beg to differ. I've spend more on sails than I paid for a couple sailboats that used them in the first place. :D

It can be very true that kids will be bored with sailing quickly unless they "get into it" and enjoy developing the skill of sailing.

And that's the big difference between operating a small powerboat and a similarly sized sailboat: sailing is about learning, powerboating is about using the boat to do fun stuff.
 
I recall sailing in Mission bay when I was 15 or so. It was 'yeah, ok done that'. Then, my next sailing exposure was in the sea of Japan, with some decent wind up and a 24' sloop, I think it was. More work, better movement, tacking, come about, jib sheet, watching the little anemometer, and after an hour or so, yup, now done that. So, that's sailing. Gimme an engine and a prop please.
 
I once or twice have used little bitty sailboats when I was a kid. About 15 years ago, I spent a few weeks on the Lady Maryland one summer - a 100' schooner. That was fun - a good-sized ship that required a crew working together. Always work to be done, and it was a fun way to travel very slowly.

Laurie and I took the ASA 101 class 3 years ago and enjoyed it, at that time we'd thought if we bought a boat it would be a sailboat. Fast forward to today with a 2 year old and twin girls on the way, and the power boat is the right fit for now. I could see getting into sailing and wanting to do that more at some point in time in the future. I think the learning vs. doing analogy is a pretty good one.
 
All went well today, had a great time on the lake. Felt like a mini-vacation, and we came home happy.

The side rail guides did seem to help, although I think I had the trailer in too deep. The aft end of the boat on the one side ended up landing on top of the 2x6 side rail, which then broke it off the screws. So, I need to re-screw it tomorrow. I'm still figuring out proper depth, and that was too deep. Easy fix, no damage to boat. But still, this is part of why I'm glad to have bought an old boat and trailer for the first one.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
All went well today, had a great time on the lake. Felt like a mini-vacation, and we came home happy.

The side rail guides did seem to help, although I think I had the trailer in too deep. The aft end of the boat on the one side ended up landing on top of the 2x6 side rail, which then broke it off the screws. So, I need to re-screw it tomorrow. I'm still figuring out proper depth, and that was too deep. Easy fix, no damage to boat. But still, this is part of why I'm glad to have bought an old boat and trailer for the first one.
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This varies with the trailer, boat, and ramp angle but more often than not you should have to winch the boat (or power it on) about one third to half the boat length. And if you "power load" (not allowed at many ramps) you have to pay close attention to the rudder or outdrive position so as to avoid pushing the aft end off center. Having the boat or trailer unlevel can cause the same problem.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
All went well today, had a great time on the lake. Felt like a mini-vacation, and we came home happy.

The side rail guides did seem to help, although I think I had the trailer in too deep. The aft end of the boat on the one side ended up landing on top of the 2x6 side rail, which then broke it off the screws. So, I need to re-screw it tomorrow. I'm still figuring out proper depth, and that was too deep. Easy fix, no damage to boat. But still, this is part of why I'm glad to have bought an old boat and trailer for the first one.
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You don't need to put a trailer in deep to recover, just power it up to the stop, you have plenty of horsepower. If you can't make it all the way, back in a bit more and try again. When you get to the point where you can drive it up, that's how deep you need it. If the end of the trailer is half the draft underwater, you should have no trouble driving it up. That should be about 9" with your boat.
 
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