Wheel bearing cup

Dav8or

Dav8or

Final Approach
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
5,174
Location
Discovery Bay, CA
Display Name
Dave
Home Airfield
C83 Byron, CA
Has anyone changed their wheel bearing cups? One of my nose wheel bearing cups appears to have a crack in it. It needs to be changed. I have Cleveland wheels.
 
Dav8or said:
Has anyone changed their wheel bearing cups? One of my nose wheel bearing cups appears to have a crack in it. It needs to be changed. I have Cleveland wheels.
Click to expand...
Cleveland says to warm the wheel and tap the cup out. I seldom had to warm it up; it comes out easily enough with a brass drift. Don't score the bore with the drift. Google Cleveland's wheel and brake maintenance manual. Free info.
 
Dan Thomas said:
Cleveland says to warm the wheel and tap the cup out. I seldom had to warm it up; it comes out easily enough with a brass drift. Don't score the bore with the drift. Google Cleveland's wheel and brake maintenance manual. Free info.
Click to expand...
I did read their manual. Seems overly complex like a science experiment or something. That's why I'm wondering about real world experience.
 
When they are cracked simply tap them from the interior, taping the circumference of the race as you go, they are not as tight as you think.
 
I replaced two mains on my Warrior as Tom-D says. Tapped it out from the opposite side with a wide flat screwdriver. They were not cracked. Go slow/gentle-ish. Be patient. Once it loosened up I switched to a wood dowel.

Mounted the new one with a hammer and a hardwood block. Again, go slow/gentle.
 
As with almost everything, reading the service manuals without actually doing the job makes the jobs seem way more complicated and difficult than they really are. NOT suggesting skipping the manual... only saying that once you start the job with the manual handy, all of the stuff the manual says that may or may not make sense or seems incredibly difficult usually DOES make sense and ISN'T incredibly difficult. I struggle with that all of the time.... I hate to start a job without knowing EXACTLY how it's going to go. That usually translates into me putting off jobs out of fear that I don't understand them completely, which is dumb. If you do get to a stage in ANYTHING where you feel unsure or if the outcome is unsafe, then of course stop and get help from a pro (speaking in very general terms... plumbing/electrical/framing support/etc..... in terms of aviation, don't do anything you're not allowed to do w/out an A&P), but usually, with the help of the manual, jobs sort of fall into place once you get started.
 
if tap-tap-tap doesn't work....don't beat on them. The casting will crack. lol ;)
 
Dav8or said:
Seems overly complex like a science experiment or something.
Click to expand...
FWIW: For research, try searching on youtube for a similar operation which you can apply to the Cleveland manual instructions.
 
Domenick said:
I replaced two mains on my Warrior as Tom-D says. Tapped it out from the opposite side with a wide flat screwdriver. They were not cracked. Go slow/gentle-ish. Be patient. Once it loosened up I switched to a wood dowel.

Mounted the new one with a hammer and a hardwood block. Again, go slow/gentle.
Click to expand...
I took old bearing cups and cut a slot through them. Various cup sizes. Those became the drivers for new cups. The new cup is placed in the bore, the slotted cup goes narrow-edge-down on top of it, and the new cup is pushed in with a press. The edge-to-edge contact prevents any damage to the new cup, and the slot means that the old cup will not jam in the bore. It pulls out easily.

Cut the slot with an abrasive cutting disc and grind the edges smooth. Don't want to scratch anything.
 
Dan Thomas said:
I took old bearing cups and cut a slot through them. Various cup sizes. Those became the drivers for new cups. The new cup is placed in the bore, the slotted cup goes narrow-edge-down on top of it, and the new cup is pushed in with a press. The edge-to-edge contact prevents any damage to the new cup, and the slot means that the old cup will not jam in the bore. It pulls out easily.

Cut the slot with an abrasive cutting disc and grind the edges smooth. Don't want to scratch anything.
Click to expand...

I like this idea!!
 
My tool box still contains old bearing cups for 1 1/4" axels and 1 1/2" axels
that had the outside diameters of the old cups ground down for use as drive tools.
 
Dav8or said:
I think he was talking about installing the new cups, not removing them.
Click to expand...
simple reverse the process, place the new race on the wheel, use the old race to tap it in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top