What Dremel tool do you use to smooth blemishes in aluminum like this?

kicktireslightfires

kicktireslightfires

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kicktireslightfires
It's always stumped me. Is there a Dremel attachment that will make already smooth-to-the-touch blemishes visibly smooth? In this photo, I have a spot on a knob that I lightly sanded to smooth it down. The sanding attachment left these marks. I know it doesn't look smooth to the touch, but you can't feel it if you run your finger over it. It's currently smooth to the touch, but you obviously can see the blemish stands out quite a bit visibly. So what tool do I use to take something from smooth to the touch to visibly smooth to smooth out the blemish?

Knob-Pull.jpg


EDIT: Fixed! Thank you!

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I wouldn't (and don't) use a Dremel tool for finishing and polishing aluminum at all. I would (and do) use a die grinder and roloc disks in blue (fine) and red (medium) grades. If it's really scuffed a gray unitized wheel will knock down the edges first. If it's as small as it looks you could also just do it by hand using a fine bastard file and scotchbrite pads (and a light touch!!!!).

Nauga,
scuffed and buffed
 
nauga said:
I wouldn't (and don't) use a Dremel tool for finishing and polishing aluminum at all. I would (and do) use a die grinder and roloc disks in blue (fine) and red (medium) grades. If it's really scuffed a gray unitized wheel will knock down the edges first. If it's as small as it looks you could also just do it by hand using a fine bastard file and scotchbrite pads (and a light touch!!!!).

Nauga,
scuffed and buffed
Click to expand...
Hmmm, thank you. Yes, it's quite small. Could you link me to the type of fine bastard file and type of Scotchbrite pads I would need? Would I want to use the bastard file first, then finish with the Scotchbrite pads?
 
kicktireslightfires said:
Hmmm, thank you. Yes, it's quite small. Could you link me to the type of fine bastard file and type of Scotchbrite pads I would need? Would I want to use the bastard file first, then finish with the Scotchbrite pads?
Click to expand...
I think my best advice is if this isn't familiar to you you should find someone local to advise. It's easier to make it worse than to make it better.

Nauga,
cautiously
 
just speaking generally, I agree with skipping the power tools. In my experience doing stuff I'm not experienced doing, it's better to slow it down.
 
As a Boatswain's Mate in the Coast Guard, I've refinished and polished a few metric tons of aluminum. It's hard to tell for sure in the picture but it appears to me that it's a knob of some sort. If that's the case, hand sand it. With that part, I'd probably start with 400 grit dry just long enough to get everything reasonably even. If you want it POLISHED, start working your way up through higher grit numbers and wet the papers (I'd soak the next higher in a bucket while working, redipping as needed). Finally, a little Mothers or Never-Dull will have it looking like a mirror.

I once refinished the entire interior of a 25' response boat with wet 60 grit on a random orbital sander. Smoothed everything out to a nice brushed finish that never really showed any blemishes again. That particular type of aluminum was notorious for developing little blemishes that looked similar to corrosion.

If you're nervous about taking off too much, just start with a high number and work your way back until you see the results you want. It's only metal.
 
KE5BM said:
As a Boatswain's Mate in the Coast Guard, I've refinished and polished a few metric tons of aluminum. It's hard to tell for sure in the picture but it appears to me that it's a knob of some sort. If that's the case, hand sand it. With that part, I'd probably start with 400 grit dry just long enough to get everything reasonably even. If you want it POLISHED, start working your way up through higher grit numbers and wet the papers (I'd soak the next higher in a bucket while working, redipping as needed). Finally, a little Mothers or Never-Dull will have it looking like a mirror.

I once refinished the entire interior of a 25' response boat with wet 60 grit on a random orbital sander. Smoothed everything out to a nice brushed finish that never really showed any blemishes again. That particular type of aluminum was notorious for developing little blemishes that looked similar to corrosion.

If you're nervous about taking off too much, just start with a high number and work your way back until you see the results you want. It's only metal.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Ross! This is helpful! Appreciate you.
 
Theres a Mill Smooth cut file thats not as aggressive as a bastard cut . If you decide you need to file on this thing, remember, pressure on the forward stroke only, lift on the return, clean the file often with a file card.
 
Wouldn’t use any power tools on this. A few minutes with progressively finer wet/dry paper or emery cloth and it will vanish. Might need a little jewelry rouge at the end to blend it all out.
 
Second the sandpaper, by hand, and go light and easy. Seems possible to go too far too quickly, as aluminum is soft and it's a tiny object. If you can, practice a bit on something similar with a similar finish, to see how the sandpaper cuts and finishes. Guessing it's going to want 200 grit or higher, but that's a guess. I'd use silicon carbide paper like you'd use for auto body work. Maybe wet, as aluminum clogs paper quickly.
 
Boatswains Mates know stuff..... listen to them!
(of course I'm biased by a great role model, my dad is retired Coast Guard BMCM)

Good job Kicktires and KE5BM!
 
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