Thinking About a Tractor

Chip Sylverne said:
Tractorin' 101.

Unlike cars, the tractor WILL overdrive the brakes. Standing on them heading toward a wall, ditch or cliff without pushing the clutch in ain't gonna stop you. Two, the brake pedals are joined by a bar. If you want to make tighter turns, flip the bar up and use them individually, but never on the road and be careful pulling a wheeled implement.
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Prolly should amend that to be careful with tight turns while pulling any implement. It's a good way to flip a tractor really really quick.
 
Clark1961 said:
Prolly should amend that to be careful with tight turns while pulling any implement. It's a good way to flip a tractor really really quick.
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Do you apply that to items like a finish mower attach to the 3-point?
 
Chip Sylverne said:
Unlike cars, the tractor WILL overdrive the brakes. Standing on them heading toward a wall, ditch or cliff without pushing the clutch in ain't gonna stop you.
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You are telling me now ? :)



At the tender age of 13 I took out the back wall of a shed with a tractor. The farmer was very nice about it.


On the left here is a bar that comes out to step on with your heel. That's the differential lock. Comes in handy when one wheel starts to lose traction, but it will prevent the front wheels from having any effect, so you need to use the split brake to steer, especially if the front end is light.
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Wouldn't engaging the differential lock eliminate the ability to steer with the brakes ?
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Do you apply that to items like a finish mower attach to the 3-point?
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I think with a three-point you'e safer. Check the swing of the 3-point arms and see if they can interfer with the tires. If they can hit the tires then you can flip the tractor.

I was taught about the problem while towing a harrow that used wire rope as the connection between tractor and harrow. The farmer was very careful in explaining it to me.
 
weilke said:
You are telling me now ? :)



At the tender age of 13 I took out the back wall of a shed with a tractor. The farmer was very nice about it.




Wouldn't engaging the differential lock eliminate the ability to steer with the brakes ?
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What generally happens, at least on my machine, is that under high torque conditions the differential lock, well, locks. Stays engaged even when you take your heel off the lever. Stepping on one side of the brake causes an increase on the braking side, and pops the locking splines apart in the diff. But you're right, until the thing releases you aren't turning.

Ted, I wouldn't worry obout overturning the tractor with a 3 point finish mower. The rear wheels on the mower will just swivel. But if you end up with a pull behind, you can damage the tongue, hitch or PTO driveline by turning too sharply. Plus, by having a lower center of gravity, your 165 is less likely to flip than a few other high- boy type tractors. If you start pulling loaded manure spreaders though...
 
I run a 2N on my place, for general stuff. I'd like to have a front loader for it, but I haven't found one yet. As for scooping horse pucky, dirt, rocks, etc. I have a "DooBob", which works quite well. It pulls a 5' bushhog quite nicely, and works a 6' box scrape as well. I work it hard, and it does what I ask of it. I actually prefer it over the 1010 JD diesel, as it will fit into tighter spots. But the 1010 is a good tractor as well.
 
Theboys said:
With all these bad things you guys are telling him about a tractor its a good thing he wasn't thinking about buying a wood chipper
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Tractor roll-overs are the leading cause of fatal production agriculture accidents*. In absolute numbers, more people die in farming accidents than general aviation accidents.





* an unknown, probably larger number of hobby farmers, hunters etc. kill themselves in addition to that, but they dont get reported to NIOSH
 
How do you flip a tractor if the three point arm comes in contact with the rear tire?

My experience has been it just locks down the tire and torque locks the engine or in case of jack-knifing the implement, it just starts to raise the implement up onto the tire.

I only have maybe ten thousand hours on a tractor. They can kill you. PTO's are bad, watch them. And doing anything on a grade, watch that.
 
I'm working my little Ford at high alt, on a sloped drive, and lot. Even when I stand up on those brake pedals, it takes some time to think about stopping. I was going up hill with the blade down, and the tires started to dig in, so I raised the blade quick, and both front tires popped up a few times. I can see where it would be deadly real fast.
 
docmirror said:
I'm working my little Ford at high alt, on a sloped drive, and lot. Even when I stand up on those brake pedals, it takes some time to think about stopping. I was going up hill with the blade down, and the tires started to dig in, so I raised the blade quick, and both front tires popped up a few times. I can see where it would be deadly real fast.
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The blade in back should keep you from going over unless it's a very steep grade. Then you might careen off to the side.

Most tractors have a screw or valve if you find it you can dial down how fast the implement raises. It's like a hydraulic flow limiter.
 
Chip Sylverne said:
Ted, I wouldn't worry obout overturning the tractor with a 3 point finish mower. The rear wheels on the mower will just swivel. But if you end up with a pull behind, you can damage the tongue, hitch or PTO driveline by turning too sharply. Plus, by having a lower center of gravity, your 165 is less likely to flip than a few other high- boy type tractors. If you start pulling loaded manure spreaders though...
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Thanks. The idea of having a towed trailer/whatever hitting the rear wheels and then causing a rollover makes sense to me, but the 3-point doesn't come close to being in contact. At least, it doesn't with the brush hog I have on there right now. I will make sure to check with other implements to make sure of it.

The tractor does seem to have a very low center of gravity, and I'm also planning on changing the wheels to be wide since that will help stability but won't impact my operations any (at least, depending on what I get for a mower). So, I figure that helps some.

For the old tractor operators, especially M-Fs, where do you like to get parts? I'm figuring I'm going to replace the exhaust on it in hopes of quieting it down some. The seat is also in rotten shape, and two of the headlights are missing some parts that are needed for putting lights in. Since I'll be doing snow plowing with it, I figure I'll want the lights working properly. The headlights that are there work fine, so I just need a few parts on the left side to get them to work.

The seat is springed, which I'm sure makes driving over rough patches nicer. It has an adjustment, but I can't get the knob to move. I'm guessing (hoping?) it's just stuck and I can get it out with some grease and a wrench. Not a big deal.

The brakes don't seem to want to do much at all. They'll kinda stop the tractor, but not really. Seems the best way to stop it is to just leave it in gear and turn it off, or just leave it in gear since it'll go whatever speed the engine wants it to go. Won't accelerate on a downhill much at all. :)

But I'm guessing the brakes are supposed to do more than that. Any ideas on adjustments, etc.? It seems like they're all internal.

I should probably buy the manuals.
 
I need to figure out what engine I have first. Not sure if it's the Perkins or Continental.
 
Well for parts tractor supply or orchleins can supply most of the stuff you mentioned. Abilene machine in Abilene Kansas has anything else or can get anything else including good used tires. If you don't get brakes to work I'll come fix them for you. Not to big of deal. If you are going to plow much snow you might want to look into a comfort cover which covers engine and platform area and let's captured heat from engine keep you all toasty. They work pretty good.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Thanks. The idea of having a towed trailer/whatever hitting the rear wheels and then causing a rollover makes sense to me, but the 3-point doesn't come close to being in contact. At least, it doesn't with the brush hog I have on there right now. I will make sure to check with other implements to make sure of it.

The tractor does seem to have a very low center of gravity, and I'm also planning on changing the wheels to be wide since that will help stability but won't impact my operations any (at least, depending on what I get for a mower). So, I figure that helps some.

For the old tractor operators, especially M-Fs, where do you like to get parts? I'm figuring I'm going to replace the exhaust on it in hopes of quieting it down some. The seat is also in rotten shape, and two of the headlights are missing some parts that are needed for putting lights in. Since I'll be doing snow plowing with it, I figure I'll want the lights working properly. The headlights that are there work fine, so I just need a few parts on the left side to get them to work.

The seat is springed, which I'm sure makes driving over rough patches nicer. It has an adjustment, but I can't get the knob to move. I'm guessing (hoping?) it's just stuck and I can get it out with some grease and a wrench. Not a big deal.

The brakes don't seem to want to do much at all. They'll kinda stop the tractor, but not really. Seems the best way to stop it is to just leave it in gear and turn it off, or just leave it in gear since it'll go whatever speed the engine wants it to go. Won't accelerate on a downhill much at all. :)

But I'm guessing the brakes are supposed to do more than that. Any ideas on adjustments, etc.? It seems like they're all internal.

I should probably buy the manuals.
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Any 3pt hitch should have adjustments that limit how far the lower links can swing toward the tires.

If you get a front loader you'll have to add weight to the rear, either by hanging a weight on the 3pt or putting fluid in the tires (or both). You might also be able to get weights to bolt on the wheels. If you choose fluid, don't use saline. The best option is "RimGuard" but a cheap alternative is RV antifreeze. RimGuard is denser so you can get a bit more weight in the same wheel. I made my own setup for putting the fluid in the tires using a cheap 12v pump and some fittings and tubing. you'll need a way to let the air out, preferably without detaching the filler.

I had a frontloader on an 8N many years ago and once managed to scoop up more dirt than I wanted leading to an inadvertant trip across the street on the front wheels (no brakes on the front).
 
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with something like a drawbar-pulled brush hog, etc, if you turn too tight it's not likely to flip over the tractor, it's more likely to flip the implement up and onto the back of the tractor. Either way you can get dead if you don't have a ROPS
 
The brakes are mechanical disks inside the axle trumpet. There are adjustment nuts on the actuating rods. When in gear, they won't do a heck of a lot to slow you down. With the clutch in, they should be pretty effective, and definitely should keep the tractor from rolling, even on a pretty good slope, when you engage the stop lever to hold them on. Try adjusting, if no joy then you'll need to pull the axle trumpets to get in there. Not a huge job, but you'll need a couple heavy duty jacks, and some sort of rolling dolly to roll the wheel/axle assy away from the tractor. Them things is heavy!

For parts, I usually just surf the web. MF dealers are spendy as hell. I'm not too proud to go to a tractor salvage yard either. There's a place called Yingling's that has a real extensive "inventory" of MF's near me. Kansas must have it's share too. Pm me a list of what you need. Next time I go up I'll se they have it.

You might start combing the farm auctions for wheel weights if you're going to plow with it, makes a big difference. And you can make up some tire chains too.

The only time I got real puckered was pulling a full hay wagon behind a baler down a probably 10 deg slope. It was evening, and the dew just started to form. The rear tires broke free and started sliding and she started to get pushed. I was able to keep everything going straight until we got to the bottom, but that was not fun. You don't want to get pushed. if you get pushed and get sideways, you pretty much get dead.
 
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Forgot. Yesterdaystractors.com has a MasseyHarris Massey Ferguson specific board that has a lot of good info. They also sell parts. Expensive, but they do have some hard to find items.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
I need to figure out what engine I have first. Not sure if it's the Perkins or Continental.
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Perky's are diesels. continentals are gas. You probably have a G-176.
52 hp @ 2000rpm.155ft/lbs @ 1150-1250rpms.
 
Yep, gas Perkins option came in I believe 1970. I'm fairly certain mine is a 60s variant with a Continental.
 
Another question: the previous owner had driven off one day without forgetting to pull the driveshaft for the brush hog off the PTO, so it broke in two. Looks like it should slip back on with a little grease just fine.

Or do I need to replace that PTO driveshaft?
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Another question: the previous owner had driven off one day without forgetting to pull the driveshaft for the brush hog off the PTO, so it broke in two. Looks like it should slip back on with a little grease just fine.

Or do I need to replace that PTO driveshaft?
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They slip back together. They are usually keyed in some way, either with a groove or shape of the shaft. If it doesn't have a shield, now'd be a good time to slap one on.
 
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I'm realizing I need to rethink my life around what it means to own a tractor.

I'm thinking of fixing the lights on it to be "proper". Why would I do such a thing? I should just get some lights from autozone and drill them onto the hood/grille.
 
Realized I hadn't posted a picture. Here's the tractor, loaded up at the previous owner's house.
 

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Yeah, looking at parts cost it looks like it might actually be pretty cheap to fix the lights "properly", so I'll do that first.
 
I'd rather use a 71" zero turn mower.....I love mine.

I'd equate that rig and the attachments to a Swiss army knife.....does lotsa stuff but nothing well.

Now, if you really do plan on farming and turning soil, planting, and harvesting....that rig could be a nice compromise.

I purchased three different pieces of used equipment to do what I think you'd like to do.....mower, 20HP hydraulic TLB, and a track loader. :yes:
 
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Checkout_my_Six said:
I'd equate that rig and the attachments to a Swiss army knife.....does lotsa stuff but nothing well.
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That works for our use and needs. Plus, tractor!
 
I realize this thread is a bit old and a tractor has been purchased, but here's my two cents. I use a New Holland 1630 for work in our vineyard and it's a great small tractor. We have a loader on it and it does well with landscaping type jobs etc. We also had a center mount mower deck for it and I'm of the opinion that if you have any trees or tight spots on your property a dedicated zero turn or front deck mower will be much appreciated. I use a JD F935 with a 72" deck for my home mowing, and we have a JD F1435 for the vineyard lawn, also with a 72" deck and they have been great. You can mow fast, get around trees and do trimming easily, and they leave a nice finish if that's important. At home I mow about 6 acres of lawn with 200 oak trees on it, and another 6 acres of turf runway, and the 935 will do it all in about 8 hours. I'd like a bigger mower for the runway, but then I'd still need a smaller one for getting around all the trees, so this is a compromise that works ok. Good luck with your new toy!

Patrick
 
Ted DuPuis said:
I'm realizing I need to rethink my life around what it means to own a tractor.

I'm thinking of fixing the lights on it to be "proper". Why would I do such a thing? I should just get some lights from autozone and drill them onto the hood/grille.
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Got a wood lot? That's a good reason not to have lights up front or fender mounts at all. I took them off my 65. Even pushing snow, I used a grading blade, so I was going in reverse anyway. Come to think of it, I have the rear light, I just never turn it on. Ya can't bale after dark around here anyway.

Nice looking machine.
 
Good input, Patrick, thanks.

We currently have a 54" Snapper riding mower. It's too small for our 11 acres (of which I estimate 8 are mowable). We don't have a ton of trees, probably 10-20 that get in the way of the mowing path.

Basically, we can either go with a 72" zero turn and plan on that for mowing, or go with a similarly sized (likely larger) deck to mow with the tractor (for big areas) and then keep our Snapper, or trade it for something else for the smaller areas. That's the decision to make.

A separate (but related) decision is whether we want to mow the whole property or not. There are some areas we could definitely leave to grow.
 
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Chip Sylverne said:
Got a wood lot? That's a good reason not to have lights up front or fender mounts at all. I took them off my 65. Even pushing snow, I used a grading blade, so I was going in reverse anyway. Come to think of it, I have the rear light, I just never turn it on. Ya can't bale after dark around here anyway.

Nice looking machine.
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It's only got a few trees. We specifically did not want a wooded lot. But we do have a decent number of hornets that need to die a painful, firey death.
 
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