Tesla Model 3 Four Years In

I’ve tried it on occasion, and don’t care for it.
That surprised me. It's great that it's available, since you do find it useful. I never have, so I've never used it.

For everyone else, that miles remaining figure is calculated based on the EPA efficiency rating and would be 100% accurate if you are driving the specific EPA profile. Percentage is just like on our phones where we know that if we make hours-long calls 80% battery will not last very long and if we leave the phone alone it will last much longer.

A couple of days ago, I went out to do a few errands. Didn't put on very many miles but made three stops for shopping, etc. Highest speed limit was 40mph. My efficiency for that trip was 167Wh/mi! That's 5.99 mi/kWh or roughly a range of 490mi on my 4yr old car, originally rated for a 358mi range.

Over the lifetime of my car, my efficiency has been 256.7Wh/mi / 3.90mi/kWh for a theoretical average range of 320mi.
I think this is a great example of how dramatically driving speed, and other factors, affects range.
 
I've had my 2021 Model three for almost 4-1/2 years now. My thinking was to keep it another two years and upgrade when AI5 was released. Now they're changing FSD to subscription only, and ending the ability to transfer a purchased FSD for orders after mid-March, so that pushed me into trading for a new 26.

I ordered from inventory, as they were running a promotion to get one free upgrade on inventory cars--I got my color upgrade for free. The car is exactly the same model and trim levels as my '21, though the naming has changed. Basically still an long-range AWD but now called Premium All-Wheel Drive. Once again, bought blue with black interior. Same car, but with quite a few hardware upgrades.

Pricing was interesting. In 2021, the base price was $49,990 with a $1,000 fee for the upgraded color. Today, the better car, is $2,500 less expensive at $47,490 plus $1,000 for the color. I used the promotion to cover the $1,000 and received another $500 off as a loyalty discount making my price $4,000 less than what I paid in 2021.

Depreciation was interesting. I asked Perplexity and Gemini what the average depreciation would be on a car that was purchased in September of 2021 and traded in today. Both AIs said 45%-55%. My trade-in offers were 45% from Tesla and 49% from Carmax. Both in the lower-half of expected range. I expected it to be worse, particularly considering how the replacement new car had decreased in price. When I was younger, I would have put in the effort and done a private sale. Kbb.com put the middle-of-the range private party value at 52%--in the upper-half of the expected range.

The biggest upgrade, for me, is that it is an AI4 car with FSD v14.2.2.5. This was the first time I've driven v14 and it is significantly better than what I had. Much smoother and its driving is more confident. It also has additional capabilities, particularly in parking lots and being able to start driving from Park in its parking spot.

Since v14.2, the car tracks your total miles on FSD vs your total miles. It had 0.3 non-self driving miles when I picked it up which would have been driving on/off the train and trucks, and driving around the delivery center for cleaning and delivery prep. (They self-drive themselves off the assembly line and to the staging location for shipment) Here are my stats after three days.

FSD Percentage.jpg

I live on a cul-de-sac so my driveway is not straight. It requires a left turn, while backing out of the garage, to follow the driveway and avoid hitting the mailbox and the inside of the garage door opening. Our third car also parks in the driveway, outside the garage, and is another obstacle to maneuver around. In this video, I never touched the steering wheel, brake, or accelerator. I got in, buckled up, and tapped the [start self driving] button on the screen. HW3 can not do this, nor will it let you engage FSD while inside the garage.


The car was moving very cautiously, but it still backed out at least as fast as I would do myself. I did not expect it to be able to do this.

The car had picked up my first destination from my Google calendar and was already set to navigate there. While still in the garage, I told Grok, which my HW3 car didn't have, "After the first stop, let's go to Cracker Barrel and then Aldi." It added those two additional destinations. There were no interventions on the trip with FSD handling all of the parking, then starting again from each parking spot. The only thing that I had to do was to pull it into the garage after it parked in my driveway at home. It doesn't yet have the option to park itself in the garage, only in the driveway.

The Grok integration is also interesting. Very conversational and will respond like any of the better AI tools to complex, compound questions. It is also able to control navigation routing which is very useful. For example, told it I wanted to go to an Irish pub in Donelson and it found it, verified that it would be open, and added it to the navigation without me having to remember the name. I told it I needed to pick up Tylenol and milk and it found an open store that would have both and that was near my current route. Much better than the Google-style, "Grocery stores near me".
 
I pinky promise I considered tires and maintenance. I assumed 80K miles per set on the Honda at $800/set. That's my experience. Modern Accords don't have timing belts, so there's no belt to replace. My maintenance costs over 750K miles (3 different Accords) have been negligible. The first two did have timing belts, but other than that and a failed clutch pedal (yep, the steel arm suffered a fatigue crack), there has been no maintenance to speak of other than consumables. Brakes? I've replaced the pads once on this one. It currently has 220K miles. Original rotors, original clutch. Oil changes are a penny a mile, fuel is $0.09/mile, depreciation is $0.06/mile, and tires are a penny a mile. Add in cabin air filters, intake air filters, and other miscellaneous consumables for about $0.01/mile and a $0.02/mile fudge factor and you're at $0.20/mile. A brand new 2026 model would be a couple cents more due to higher depreciation.

Bottom line I don't see a financial advantage to the Telsa Model 3 compared to a Honda Accord. If I was replacing my wife's 17 MPG SUV with a Model Y, the story might be different. In fact, it probably would be different. Same or lower acquisition cost, lower operating cost. The only questions would be whether a Tesla is going to depreciate faster than a Highlander OR if it is going to require more maintenance over a 15 year useful life.

But then you'd be driving a crappy old Honda.

I’m a new EV owner, and financially it doesn’t save me much—if any—money compared to the BMW 5 Series I replaced. The EV I bought also isn’t the most advanced one on the road. That said, I’m completely sold on the concept of electric vehicles. It fits my needs and use case perfectly. I chose to lease because EVs still depreciate heavily, and at the time I wasn’t sure I’d even like owning an EV. I didn’t want to commit to a long‑term relationship right away. I might lease again, but I honestly don’t know yet—I’m only about a month and a half into a three‑year lease.
 
But then you'd be driving a crappy old Honda.

I’m a new EV owner, and financially it doesn’t save me much—if any—money compared to the BMW 5 Series I replaced. The EV I bought also isn’t the most advanced one on the road. That said, I’m completely sold on the concept of electric vehicles. It fits my needs and use case perfectly. I chose to lease because EVs still depreciate heavily, and at the time I wasn’t sure I’d even like owning an EV. I didn’t want to commit to a long‑term relationship right away. I might lease again, but I honestly don’t know yet—I’m only about a month and a half into a three‑year lease.
The comparison was lifecycle cost. In a similar lifecycle, the point was the Honda is certainly no more expensive than an EV and potentially less expensive. Presumably, either car wears the same from a cosmetic perspective over time/miles.
 
Ed, my understanding is that it will park in the garage, if you paint stripes on the driveway and in the garage.
 
Ed, my understanding is that it will park in the garage, if you paint stripes on the driveway and in the garage.
That can help, though it's not a supported feature yet. The option to select to park in the driveway was recently added.

v14 was the first version that focus on parking lot behavior and included reliable auto parking in FSD mode. Previously, it would autopark only when the spot was manually selected, and autopark selected, by the driver.
 
Yesterday on the way home from a trip to Indiana:

55441374685_3a3706e95d_c.jpg


Still the most reliable car I've ever owned - still only that one rear defroster repair under warranty.

No other car I've owned has gone that distance without needing at least some repairs, and some not so minor. And I'm reflecting on how many oil changes would one typically have over 100,000 miles. And likely brakes. And spark plugs. And who knows what else.

Most importantly, not a single "CHECK ENGINE" light!

Pretty obvious I'm sold on this little Tesla!
 
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Still the most reliable car I've ever owned - still only that one rear defroster repair under warranty.

No other car I've owned has gone that distance without needing at least some repairs, and some not so minor.

Same. 6 years, 70K, three service calls:
- Little plastic nub in charging port broke at 1 month
- Low voltage battery at about 4 years
- Tires at 50K
 
My daughter and her husband bought a used 3 recently, it was my first experience driving a Tesla. Very nice and I'm interested, but not quite ready to pull the trigger yet.
 
I'm almost at 5 years, traded in the first one at 4y 5mo.

First one had a tail light assembly replaced (moisture) and a window regulator adjusted under warranty. I had the cabin filters replaced twice and the camera cleaning once. Original battery and tires were still doing fine.

New one is still new. Nothing to fix yet.
 
I'm over 105,000 miles now. I read back through my posts on this thread and saw that my previous battery test was at 92% a year ago. Well, I just ran another one and it was at 91%. So, the battery degradation has settled out to the long term part of the curve, and losing 1% per year it'll last a good long time.

Haven't done anything maintenance wise in the last year, though I did just get a crack in the windshield from a rock so I'll be getting another one. That would have been the case on any car though.
 
"Reverse light condition detected" my only issue after almost 1 year of ownership. I haven't fixed it yet b/c it seems it should be something they should be able to come to the house to fix but the app isn't giving me that option (likely user error I'm sure).
 
"Reverse light condition detected" my only issue after almost 1 year of ownership. I haven't fixed it yet b/c it seems it should be something they should be able to come to the house to fix but the app isn't giving me that option (likely user error I'm sure).
How far did you get in the process? I've had it initially show a service center appointment but switch to mobile service when I completed scheduling and they review the request. You can always cancel later if they don't switch.
 
How far did you get in the process? I've had it initially show a service center appointment but switch to mobile service when I completed scheduling and they review the request. You can always cancel later if they don't switch.
I had the tow package installed at the house and was given the home option from the start. For my first attempt at getting the reverse light issue addressed, I got as far as selecting a physical location and time to drop the car off. I didn't not know they might switch me to at home after scheduling dealership service. Thanks for the tip!
 
I’m commuting 200 miles per day, currently spending $17-$20 per day fueling the Prius. I’m pretty sold on the idea of replacing it with a Tesla just to stop that fuel burn alone.

Mom bought a new 26 Y LR, it will do my daily commute very very comfortably. But in the used cars, it seems like the expected range is all over the map. I just drove a dual motor LR Y the other day and it said it’s expected range was only 240 from 100% battery. Without superchargers anywhere on the commute I’m quite leery of cutting it close in the winter time.
 
I didn't not know they might switch me to at home after scheduling dealership service.
I think the automated system will schedule it as a service center visit whenever there is the possibility of needing diagnosis. When a service advisor looks at your request they'll further evaluate, including looking at data from your car, and can switch to mobile as appropriate. You'll also have the opportunity to text them and can ask for a mobile service. If nothing works out, just cancel and combine it with other stuff later.

I had one tail light assembly replaced, at home, on the 2021 car. It has the persistent moisture problem, which was common back then. If the moisture lasted more than three days they'd replace under warranty. It took him about five minutes to do the swap. I'm not sure what your reverse light problem might be but a simple replacement, like I had, should be easy for mobile service.

I just drove a dual motor LR Y the other day and it said it’s expected range was only 240 from 100% battery. Without superchargers anywhere on the commute I’m quite leery of cutting it close in the winter time.
Where are you reading that 240 miles of range? If it's the number next to the battery icon at the top of the screen, it's worthless.

Navigate the route you want to drive and it'll give you a very accurate estimate of how much energy will be used. Also, look in the Energy app (app tray, green graph looking icon) and look there. It'll show a much more accurate range based on the recent driving of the car over three previous distance ranges.

PM me to the two addresses and I'll run it on www.aBetterRoutePlanning.com and see what you should be able to get. I'm also skeptical that you have a 100mi trip without Superchargers, but, it's possible if it's away from freeways.
 
Is it really that loud, or are you just used to those sounds being obscured by engine noise?
You don't have engine noise so you hear more of the wind and tire noise. The newer build are significantly better than the older ones. Looks for the double-pane glass on the side widows. There are third party kits that add additional seals to the doors, frunk, and trunk. They might help on the older cars. I don't think they do much, if anything, on the newer ones.

Another difference in newer vs. older on the Model Y is the suspension. The refreshed (front light bar) Y's have a significantly better ride than the older ones. I think there are third party suspension upgrades available for the older ones but don't know the details. It would be worth looking into.
 
Is it really that loud, or are you just used to those sounds being obscured by engine noise?

It's really loud, though highly dependent on road surface. On smooth asphalt it's not bad at all. On the macadam pebbled surfaces we drive on a lot its quite noisy. I may see how many decibles on my iPhone to verify. In any case, the newer builds - Highland for the Model 3 and Juniper for the Model Y - are supposedly much improved in this area.
 
Anyone ever use a CCS1 to NACS Adapter? I'm headed somewhere this weekend where only a CCS1 is nearby. There's one for $75 on Amazon.
 
Anyone ever use a CCS1 to NACS Adapter? I'm headed somewhere this weekend where only a CCS1 is nearby. There's one for $75 on Amazon.
I have the Tesla CCS adapter. I've only used it once, to test it out on a local CCS station. Probably don't need it, but I like knowing I have it.
 
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