Test flew a Cherokee 140 with the 160hp upgrade. 30ish hours on a 2013 OH (yes I know...) Engine ran smooth, started first crank after admittedly sitting for awhile, nice little trip around the pattern and town with the only squwaks being a push to talk that seemed sticky and a oil temperature gauge that never came up. Seemed to pull a little right on taxi/takeoff but the right seat guy (me) weighed a good chunk more than left seat guy, and right tank was also full vs tabs only on the left so I thought it was that imbalance. However after we landed and got it back to the ramp it was VERY tail low. Nose gear strut was stuck fully extended. After we disembarked and did some yanking the nose strut eventually gave in and went to a normal compression, and then I noticed the right main strut also sat slightly too low compared to left (and by now that fuel imbalance should have been negligible). Owner/seller of course trying to play it off as an overfilled front strut and underfilled right main strut. Is this actually a case of struts going bad from sitting too long and needing rebuilt? If so, anyone know a ballpark cost for that?
How's the chrome on the strut? Any pitting on the strut where the seals ride? If not, probably a simple reseal, if so, maybe more.
I have owned my Piper Warrior for over 5 years now, I never have issues with the nose strut but I get all OCD about the wing struts being level, they never are and it makes me sad. They do take a beating and always come back for more, I have had to add (nitrogen?) to them once and have had usual maintenance during annuals as needed.
My Warrior sticks all the time (all three, although usually at different times). I had them rebuilt, and they still stick. I live with it.
We had the same thing with our club plane and I had to ***** about it for around 4 years before the mechanic finally did something about it. It pulled hard left, and the clown tried telling me it was p-factor. So I taxied it with him aboard, pulled the mixture, and let it roll. “So you’re telling me it’s p-factor?” It can be a safety issue on a 50 foot wide runway.
If the chrome is not pitted and there is no fluid leaks and the strut is holding a nitrogen charge it’s most likely nothing. Pa28s have a habit of sticky struts. Keeping the struts clean and the charge levels proper alleviates it for the most part.
Thanks everyone. I was mainly wondering if this is a situation where I should just walk away before investing in a prebuy but seems like it's not.
Whell, in a prior life I/"we" used to wipe down shiny struts with a damp rag or cheese cloth wetted with MIL-H-5606. Just sayin'...
What he said. If there is no evidence of leaking then it very well may under/over charge of the struts. However, if there is evidence of leaking especially in the fluid is more brown than red, it probably needs a strut kit installed. They are inexpensive and like Tom said, 4-6 hours (per strut) in labor. Make sure they change ALL the O rings as often the one at the top is neglected because it can be a PITA to remove the strut on the mains.
Sticky struts on a Cherokee are common, and normally no big deal. The article linked here goes a little overboard worrying about what solvent to use, or not to use, but the rest of the information is pretty good. Besides strut oil, I've used anything from avgas to wd, to motor oil on a rag. Simply extend the strut and clean it. Regular cleaning will more than likely fix the issue. https://generalaviationnews.com/2016/02/24/tip-how-to-properly-clean-oleo-struts/ If you've never serviced struts before with air and oil, get someone who knows the job to show you for the first time. Check the oil level, and use a strut pump, or nitrogen bottle, to achieve proper extension height. Some insist on filling with nitrogen because they think the strut will last longer. I've seen plenty of 50 year old struts that show no signs of corrosion using nothing but plain old strut pump air. Normally, a pitted shaft on a strut will cause it to eventually go flat, not cause sticky. Rebuilding a strut is no big deal either, but before you put your eye out with a hydraulic oil injection, find somebody who can teach you, or will do it for you.
While the gear is on the ground, remove the Wilkey button over the strut on top of the wing, remove the cap from the valve and press on the stem. If high pressure fluid sprays all over you, the plane and coats the walls of the hangar - it has fluid in it...or at least it used to. OP - Do NOT do this!!!
That's one way to check, but it won't tell you how much.. I tell my PA-28 customers to clean the gland nut of the strut, with any light distillate oil like kerosene or WD 40 using a soft brush, then keep it clean, every time the wash their aircraft.
proper method of checking fluid level in any hydraulic strut. place a 2' section of clear plastic tube over the filler valve, and put the end in a Zip - loc bag. crack open the valve and allow the strut to collapse, when all pressure is depleted, open the valve all the way. now place the clear tube in a can of hydraulic fluid, and jack the wing up to full strut extension.. Allow to set until fluid stops flowing in the tube. next you lower the wing until the strut is collapsed. now your strut is full, so fill to proper extension with N2 (NOT COMPRESSED AIR)
