NA %^*}^ VW Jetta NA

We have owned various and sundry cars and trucks since college and nary a problem on any of them except the very first one. Always ran at least 80-100K miles on each and always bought new except the first one which threw a rod.

Latest is a BMW X3 with 6 Speed MT I picked up in Munich. 85K so far and only routine maintenance. Also a Jeep GC pressing 60K, same history

Some guys have all the luck.;)

Cheers

I thought those only came in automatic? Is it US spec? or did you bring a German model back?
 
The dealership called this morning asking for money to tear into the transmission to see if it was the valve body problem. Go figure. LOL.

$325 in labor just to get at it and see if it's the problem. Always nice to pay for someone to go dumpster diving.
 
I had a Wolfsburg edition 1986 Jetta GLI with manual transmission. It was a decent car, but road noise was pretty high for a sedan, and it stuck me on the highway a couple of times due to fuel injection issues. I got rid of it because I just didn't want to get stuck again.
 
Been buying Nip cars for years and have yet to experience a significant mechanical breakdown more serious than a dead battery.

Had a 1974 Subaru (purchased new) that went through rectifiers in the alternator twice (once only about 300 miles after the warranty expired) and head gaskets every 50,000 miles. You couldn't just pull the heads and replace the gaskets, they were sleeved cylinders and you needed to replace crush washers at the bottom. Total tear down each time. It was ready for its third rebuild when I sold it.

My current car is the #1 worst rated vehicle you can own, by a long shot...

Jeep Wrangler.

Never had a single problem with it in the 3 years I have owned it. Just put gas and oil in it, and it works perfectly.

Just bad/good luck sometimes when it comes to cars. Not sure I would write off an entire country because of one car however.

My 1999 Wrangler has 180,000 miles on the clock. I lost the fuel pump once and the exhaust manifold died after about 9 years. Discussions on Jeep message boards when I bought it new indicated that a number of people were having trouble with the manifold after a year or so, so I had no complaint when I had to replace mine. But, it's still running fine and I have no plans to replace it anytime soon. Occational repairs are still cheaper than having car payments again.
 
And it's apparently "Solenoid #10" in some expensive internal unit. (Have not had time to research that.)

Thanks to Mike's thoughtful lookup I know that I can just swap transmissions with a used one, but I decided to let them fix the darn thing after reading tons of stories that they've had a QC problem with all the recent year's ones. A used tranny will probably die a similar death at similar miles.

The parts to fix it and labor end up being similar pricing to a complete used tranny though. Ugh.

They say it'll be a few days. Then we'll decide if we keep it and make it into my beater commuter car or dump it. I think I like my truck too much to use a beater to go to work in.

Plus I've been working on gathering the stuff to install the Comm weenie gear in the truck. It's just about time to start drilling holes in the roof for NMO mounts, I just hadn't started that project segment yet because I hate taking the headliner down and the Havis console hasn't arrived yet. Still need to run high amperage power from the engine compartment and decide if I'm putting the OEM dual-battery tray and harness in it, and maybe beef up the alternator or change the pulley size to get more amps at idle...

Always projects... Stuff to do...
 
Been buying Nip cars for years and have yet to experience a significant mechanical breakdown more serious than a dead battery.
I'd think a broken tie rod was more serious than a dead battery.:wink2:
 
I'd think a broken tie rod was more serious than a dead battery.:wink2:

Well, I think Steingar and I have a pretty good basis for a lawsuit against Nate! :yikes:

Nate starts this whole thread, and Steingar and I each reference good experiences with our cars... and then...

...Steingar has an almost unheard-of failure on Mister Two (I mean really, a failed tie rod end on a Toyota?!

And I now have a failing solenoid on the Jetta's tranny as well (or so it appears from review of symptoms in the great expert-system that is the Global InterWebz).

Thanks buddy. :mad:
 
Well, I think Steingar and I have a pretty good basis for a lawsuit against Nate! :yikes:

Nate starts this whole thread, and Steingar and I each reference good experiences with our cars... and then...

...Steingar has an almost unheard-of failure on Mister Two (I mean really, a failed tie rod end on a Toyota?!

And I now have a failing solenoid on the Jetta's tranny as well (or so it appears from review of symptoms in the great expert-system that is the Global InterWebz).

Thanks buddy. :mad:

ROFL!!!

Just sharing the love... that or it's a new Hex on PoA... haha...
 
Never again will we own a German car. What a hunk of ****.

Automatic transmissions tend to be the weak points on quite a lot of vehicles. Don't use them, and your vehicle will last a lot longer.

VWs tend to use weird fluids for everything, and people get cheap and put "normal" stuff in them, and then it fails. When I got my '90 Jetta, the cooling system was filled with green stuff. I had to change every hose.

For the guy who likes Fords so much, I have four letters for you. 4A-FE. And E4AT, as well.

For the problem at hand, with hard-shifting problems, make sure the computer has a good vacuum reading. If you have a big vacuum leak, sometimes the PCM thinks you've floored the throttle and it downshifts. It doesn't hurt to flush the fluid and inspect the magnets and replace the filter, as long as you refill with the correct fluid. If the fluid looks like crap (i.e., battleship gray), replace it twice, as the torque converter will hold multiple quarts.

Electronic transmissions can also shift hard due to electrical faults, and these are much cheaper to repair than replacing the transmission, as long as the tech involved knows his butt from a hole in the ground.

Another thing that kills these transmissions is an overheated engine or cooling system failure. This is fatal; you'll need a transmission rebuild. But the symptom is usually a slipping transmission, not hard shifting.
 
Automatic transmissions tend to be the weak points on quite a lot of vehicles. Don't use them, and your vehicle will last a lot longer.

Already covered that. Non-starter.

And nowadays, I'd very much disagree with you on a number of large vehicles doing towing, as would the manufacturers who won't warranty the manual transmission for heavy towing operations.

Automatics got a lot better since we were kids back when there weren't any computers, and we played with dirt outside for fun. :)

Doesn't matter. If you missed the post saying it wasn't happening, it was there.

VWs tend to use weird fluids for everything, and people get cheap and put "normal" stuff in them, and then it fails. When I got my '90 Jetta, the cooling system was filled with green stuff. I had to change every hose.

True, and definitely not the problem here, since the transmission is essentially "sealed". There isn't even a dipstick on these things.

The last person to see my transmission fluid on Transmission #2 was the tech at the VW Dealer who put it in there via the plug on top of the case. To properly change the fluid on this transmission not only requires getting at it from underneath and filling it to a particular drain plug (similar to a differential), but you MUST reset settings in the vehicle's computer. (DIY'ers and some non-dealer shops typically use VagCom, the dealer has their own proprietary toys.)

There is NO recommended service interval for this transmission.

For the guy who likes Fords so much, I have four letters for you. 4A-FE. And E4AT, as well.

I haven't said I like Fords... and there's definitely some issues with various "slushbox" American transmissions, but there's another factor with them too...

The parts to completely rebuild them are dirt cheap. I can't think of an American pickup truck that you can't rebuild the transmission for less than $1000, and with a little work, install it yourself in an afternoon. It's a seriously sucky job, and it helps a lot if you have a buddy with a lift... but the stuff is dirt-simple to repair. Tedious and fussy replacing all the little parts, so a lot smarter to let someone who does it every day, do them, but they do... and have them sitting on shelves ready to bolt on... finding parts and rebuilt trannys isn't difficult at all.

But I definitely never said I like Fords. ;)

For the problem at hand, with hard-shifting problems, make sure the computer has a good vacuum reading. If you have a big vacuum leak, sometimes the PCM thinks you've floored the throttle and it downshifts.

Not how the VW "tiptronic" transmission works at all, but thanks for the bad info. Nor does the VW rely on vacuum for throttle position in the TDI. In fact, the car would be pretty hard to drive without the throttle position sensor on the pedal working, since the throttle position is 100% "drive by wire" in the TDI Jetta. No linkage from the pedal to the engine at all. And if the vacuum or other items didn't match the TPI sensor, there'd be a lot more codes and a lot more complaining by the computers than there is on ours.

Google "VW Jetta Transmission Hard Shift" and spend a few hours reading. It's a bad design, which is very clear if you read the years and years of complaints on virtually every major automotive website.

Almost NONE of them make it past 150K miles. MOST die around 100K miles.

I've had two die now before making it to 70K miles. Goodie, I got to be the unlucky guy with transmissions at the bottom of the bell curve. Oh well.

It's as bad as typing in GM Instrument Cluster Failure into Google... and that was a recall. The difference there was, the car was still drivable, and the fix is $30 worth of servos and two hours soldering. :)

It doesn't hurt to flush the fluid and inspect the magnets and replace the filter, as long as you refill with the correct fluid. If the fluid looks like crap (i.e., battleship gray), replace it twice, as the torque converter will hold multiple quarts.

Not how VW transmissions are designed to be maintained, but again... feel free to read up. They have NO recommended service interval. NONE.

The transmission is pretty much designed to grenade before it'll need fluid.

They're sealed up and if they're filled properly at installation, they're supposed to run at least 100K miles on a single fluid change. Most VW mechanics will say 100K miles / 7 years.

Frankly judging my the online enthusiast sites, and remember these are people who LIKE their Jettas, especially TDI fanatics... If they make it to 100K miles, you got full life out of the transmission, and it's likely that they're not going to make it through the second 100K miles, so it matters very little.

One of the most popular things to do in these vehicles at enthusiast sites is to swap out the Automatic for the Manual, since it fits... again, showing that enthusiasts know the Autos are junk.

Electronic transmissions can also shift hard due to electrical faults, and these are much cheaper to repair than replacing the transmission, as long as the tech involved knows his butt from a hole in the ground.

That's exactly what's wrong with ours. It's a solenoid problem, and even reported itself to the main computer (which is inside the stereo, of all stupid places to put it) after the third slam-shift when I was driving it.

The code was confirmed by the dealer pulling the transmission apart and checking the solenoid reported, when they called to give me that info this morning. It was dead. $325 in labor to get at it. $1500 to fix it.

There's also been recalls of the valve body in recent years on this transmission.

Being that this is the second transmission, there's a good likelihood that the second one is in the serial numbers of the recall, but... VW only recalled the ones installed on new vehicles.

VW did not recall if the transmission was purchased new and hung on an older car. Which is where "Transmission #2" is at. Same problems, no recall. 1 year, 10K warranty on new trannys from VW of America, period. Nothing more.

Even funnier, the tech working on our car had the exact same failure on his own car.

His service manager has been overly careful to say: "This may not fix all of the problems", and I understand why -- once bad things start happening inside a transmission, other stuff gets destroyed pretty easily. And these transmissions are particularly fragile. THEY KNOW IT or they wouldn't have her reading from that script... hahaha...

The newly redesigned transmission did away with the torque converter on the new Auto, and their design for the DSG "clutchless" manual has a dual-plate flywheel, which is also the subject of a quiet "non-recall"... the original flywheels were totally out of whack at very short mileage intervals and it was redesigned and quietly replaced with a new part number.

Which is pretty much how VW fixes everything... redesign it in the field, don't tell anyone you changed it for fear they'll realize they were originally sold junk that was designed wrong, and charge 'em up the wazoo for the new part when the original fails to fix it.

VW of America is notorious for not recalling or fixing much of anything known to be a problem, unless forced to by NHTSA, and NHTSA doesn't care if your drivetrain disintegrates internally. :)

Another thing that kills these transmissions is an overheated engine or cooling system failure. This is fatal; you'll need a transmission rebuild. But the symptom is usually a slipping transmission, not hard shifting.

This sounds a lot like you're describing American transmissions, like the ones common in GM(C) vehicles in the 80's. Low fluid, heating issues, etc... those slushboxes had their faults, and you're giving good advice for those.

These transmissions on the VWs are a completely different animal. I'm sure VW would say they're "better", but I can limp an American slushbox along for years once I know it's starting to go... these just up and quit, because they're not built to be sloppy.

For good or for bad, they just fail. If they'd put a little extra design effort into them, maybe they'd do that up around 200K miles instead of 100K miles. They're cheap.
 
Thanks to Mike's thoughtful lookup I know that I can just swap transmissions with a used one, but I decided to let them fix the darn thing after reading tons of stories that they've had a QC problem with all the recent year's ones. A used tranny will probably die a similar death at similar miles.

Perhaps, but if you buy it from the right recyclers, you can acquire a warranty of sufficient length to cover that eventuality. Then it's back to the supplier to have them honor the warranty claim.

And most of these "right" recyclers will also provide a labor upgrade, meaning that the supplier pays your mechanic to turn the wrenches to install the warranty replacement.

Sure we've had discussions here about extended warranties. And yes, it is a profit center for the seller. But for the buyer that has a "slightly more complicated part than usual", like Nate, it might be worth it to have the risk of another failure covered with a bit of insurance.
 
Automatic transmissions tend to be the weak points on quite a lot of vehicles. Don't use them, and your vehicle will last a lot longer.

Not on all of them. There are a few vehicles that I regularly acquire to part out that I sell the engines very quickly for lots of coin. But their transmissions rarely ever sell. A short list are 97-01 Camry, 00-04 Focus SOHC, Cavalier/Sunfire, Malibu, Buick/olds/pontiac's with the 3.8L...

And Nate is correct that the overall quality has gotten better. Transmissions are still my #2 part type in terms of overall revenue generation (Engines being #1). But I have seen a decreasing "low mile" failures with most of the request activity coming from folks who have 120k or more and want to keep going so they can reach the "wheels fell off" stage.
 
Not on all of them. There are a few vehicles that I regularly acquire to part out that I sell the engines very quickly for lots of coin. But their transmissions rarely ever sell. A short list are 97-01 Camry, 00-04 Focus SOHC, Cavalier/Sunfire, Malibu, Buick/olds/pontiac's with the 3.8L...

And Nate is correct that the overall quality has gotten better. Transmissions are still my #2 part type in terms of overall revenue generation (Engines being #1). But I have seen a decreasing "low mile" failures with most of the request activity coming from folks who have 120k or more and want to keep going so they can reach the "wheels fell off" stage.
My Sunfire was without a doubt the best damn vehicle I've ever owned. I miss it.
 
You should never buy a German car with anything but a manual transmission.
Worked for me. I have a 2002 VW Passat with 1.8 turbo and manual transmission. I have not had any problems and will give it to my son when he graduates from college in December. I am now looking at a new VW to replace it.
 
You should never buy a German car with anything but a manual transmission.
+1

What aggravates me is the slow decline of the manual means you have to order them to get a stick. We had to order our '08 328 convertible to get a stick. None in the US at the time. Oh darn. I guess we'll have to pick it up in Munich. Shucks. And you say it'll be delivered during Oktoberfest? Woe is me!

But don't get me started on Porsche and that cursed PDK. What an abomination!
 
What aggravates me is the slow decline of the manual means you have to order them to get a stick.

The cellphone and the drive-through window have contributed significantly to the demise of the stickshift in America.... :(

-Skip

oh yeah... bumper to bumper rush hour traffic, too....
 
....... I am now looking at a new VW to replace it.

Word on the street is Nate has a "one owner, low mileage, only driven to church on Sunday by an old lady".... VW for sale...;):wink2::rofl::rofl::eek:
 
Just following up...

One of Mike's used trannys would have been cheaper, but hard to say what they would have charged me to put it in or how long it would last...

Also had a couple other minor things done while it was there...

- Replace module that contains "Solenoid #10" (part was $1500)
- Replace serpentine belt (I hate doing that anyway, just yank it and do it while you're in it up to your armpits)
- Headlight (VW has made one of them impossible to get at without removing the battery and the other has so much plastic shielding above it, you can't reach it - another annoyance I let them mess with)
- New battery. (I could do that one, but it's an oversized beast for the diesel and who feels like doing it? Heh.)

$2200.

It'll probably be up for sale soon. :)

My cheapskate side says to keep it. It's paid off, so $2200 over the many years it's been paid off is nothing compared to the insanity of something new, and fairly cheap compared to hunting down a nice used vehicle for her.

My brain says "it ONLY has 135K miles on it!". Heh.

I'll probably start my (enjoyable to me) longer term hunting process for the three or four SUV types she likes. Takes a while, but sooner or later the right vehicle pops up at the right price to go haggle.

If I felt the need for a beater commuter car, I'd drive it... But I want to put all my two-way radio gear in the Yukon this year, and there aren't any "cop shop" radio consoles for VW Jettas. Hahaha.

Plus, dad's willing to sell me his beater Miata. (He's keeping the collector's edition. Darn! Haha.) That'd be a better fixer-upper for Summer fun, but I'd have to lower the seat. Those things are built for midgets. :) :) :)

The VW doesn't meet the "mission" anymore unless the mission is cheap driving and leave it where ever it dies next with the keys in it. Hahaha.
 
miata? Nate - that's a girl's car! :) unless you do something like this.


Ken%20H%20Monster4.jpg
 
Worst car I ever owned: 1979 Plymouth Horizon.

Best car (in terms of longevity): The 1969 AMC Rebel station wagon I bought when I was in college. She had 228,000 miles on the odometer, and had cost me $8.00 in total repair costs, until the day the muffler, the brake master cylinder, and the starter all went -- all on the same day.

Seriously. The muffler and master cylinder went down while I was on my way to pick up a pizza. I cussed a bit and parked the car outside the pizza joint. When I got back into the car, it wouldn't start: the starter had gone bad, as well.

I always appreciated the car's courtesy in dying so spectacularly. Had only one part failed, I might have been tempted to fix it. But dying the way it did convinced me to just call the junkie.

I paid $450.00 for that car (used, of course), drove it heavily for a year or two, spent $8.00 on repairs (two replacement shock absorber mounts @ $4.00 each), and got $35.00 for it from the junkie. Not a bad deal, if you ask me.

-Rich
 
Just following up...

One of Mike's used trannys would have been cheaper, but hard to say what they would have charged me to put it in or how long it would last...

Long enough to appease your "it's paid for" cortex. Besides, I woulda sold it to you with a 2 or 3 year warranty on it, parts AND labor. Then if it cratered, all your paying for are the consumables like fluid and filter kit. The replacement transmission and the install labor would be paid by me.

But you did okay. Rationalize it like this. You "prepaid" 12- months of car payments at $200/mo for a decent ride that from the rest of what you said is worth owning. Finding something else in the Denver used car market as good for that cheap would be a challenge.

Drive it for the next 12-14 months as you save up some additional semoilians and then go replacement shopping Fall 2013.

_____________________________________
Sent from my ivory tower using smoke signals
 
...and got $35.00 for it from the junkie. Not a bad deal, if you ask me.

-Rich

Times sure have changed. Today I paid $2800 for a 2004 Murano with a dead engine (usually a $1850 sale). But the rest of the car is very well kept and I'm projecting nearly $6500 in sales once I'm done.

_____________________________________
Sent by an African swallow also bearing a coconut
 
Long enough to appease your "it's paid for" cortex. Besides, I woulda sold it to you with a 2 or 3 year warranty on it, parts AND labor. Then if it cratered, all your paying for are the consumables like fluid and filter kit. The replacement transmission and the install labor would be paid by me.

But you did okay. Rationalize it like this. You "prepaid" 12- months of car payments at $200/mo for a decent ride that from the rest of what you said is worth owning. Finding something else in the Denver used car market as good for that cheap would be a challenge.

Drive it for the next 12-14 months as you save up some additional semoilians and then go replacement shopping Fall 2013.

Heh. Yeah. Well, if nothing else folks here now know they should call ya! ;)

We were doing the math the other direction. It was brand new in 2004 and we had a 48 month loan on it. So since it's been paid for for four years, it cost us $500/yr to fix it. And of course, we own it.

Not bad at all, really. If it were a Honda, that'd be $0, our Civic was indestructible -- so there's the difference in a VW... $500 year. :)

Your scenario is probably what we'll do, with the option to cut and run if the "right" SUV comes along. ;)

Karen is saying that she drives more than I do, so she doesn't want to pay the gas for another Yukon, but I know how to shop Yukons. It be easy to find another great one. Oh well...

I'll be researching smaller ones. Momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. ;)

She's said she's cool with driving the VW for now. I bet if it leaves her somewhere beside the road it'll be the last straw for her. But she likes not paying for cars as much as I do. :)
 
If you guys in Denver haven't already discovered it, Stadium Auto Parts is a really good source for parts in Denver. The owner, Norm Wright, is a good friend and a smart business guy.
 
miata? Nate - that's a girl's car! :) unless you do something like

Miatas are girl's cars until you change the seats, fat bottom girls won't like em either.
BTW, what is under that hood that's special?:confused:
 
Last edited:
Miatas are girl's cars until you change the seats, fat bottom girls won't like em either.
BTW, what is under that hood that's special?:confused:

Don't be hatin' on Miatas. They're fun even without a V8 in them.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
 
I'll be researching smaller ones. Momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. ;)

She's said she's cool with driving the VW for now. I bet if it leaves her somewhere beside the road it'll be the last straw for her. But she likes not paying for cars as much as I do. :)


This has been a disheartening thread to read as we have a 2012 Golf TDI. It's the wife's car and she loves it (as you said, a happy wife is a good thing). Gotta admit, it is a blast to drive, good fit and finish and is surprisingly quick, comfortable and very fuel efficient. So far, 15k miles and no issues, but the transmission problems and the general maintenance problems have me wondering.

Don't know if the DSG trans in the Golf is the same as what you had (Tiptronic?).

Agree with the Honda reliability, owned a few, all went well over 150k with only routine maintenance. Just sold a Camry with 175k, still ran and rode great!

Gary
 
You never know.

My all-time by far worst car was a Honda Civic. It is entirely possible for Hondas to fail.
 
Heh. Yeah. Well, if nothing else folks here now know they should call ya! ;)

We were doing the math the other direction. It was brand new in 2004 and we had a 48 month loan on it. So since it's been paid for for four years, it cost us $500/yr to fix it. And of course, we own it.

Not bad at all, really. If it were a Honda, that'd be $0, our Civic was indestructible -- so there's the difference in a VW... $500 year. :)

Your scenario is probably what we'll do, with the option to cut and run if the "right" SUV comes along. ;)

Karen is saying that she drives more than I do, so she doesn't want to pay the gas for another Yukon, but I know how to shop Yukons. It be easy to find another great one. Oh well...

I'll be researching smaller ones. Momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. ;)

She's said she's cool with driving the VW for now. I bet if it leaves her somewhere beside the road it'll be the last straw for her. But she likes not paying for cars as much as I do. :)

I will just say that I wouldn't drive a GM vehicle right now if you gave it to me and paid me to drive it. With roughly 25% of the company still owned by the government and their business starting to slide into the gutter again, I'm not quite sure how I could justify voluntarily giving them tens of thousands of my hard-earned money when better alternatives exist.

I had a year 2000 Audi A4 which was built in Germany. From a driver's perspective, it was a great car. From an owner's perspective, it was quite possibly the worst car I've ever owned (and I came from a Chrysler product). Never had one lick of trouble with the transmission (it was a Tiptronic), but multiple expensive sensors, multiple wheel bearings, leaking engine seals which sprayed oil all over the engine compartment (repeatedly!), and the fact that after only 5 years, every piece of rubber and plastic anywhere close to the engine literally crumbled when you touched it. And all of this well under 100k miles. When I finally got rid of it at 7 years and just over 100k miles, it seemed to be having some type of exhaust system issue which I wasn't able to positively identify, but could certainly hear.

As for the Honda, don't bet on $0 maintenance. My wife had a 1994 Honda Accord which was, after only a few years, rusting from the INSIDE OUT (found this out after I pulled up the rear seats to look for a missing something.) It was also subject to a Honda design flaw which could cause an engine oil system seal to pop out and dump ALL of the engine oil overboard which... you guessed it, happened to my wife, late at night in an unsavory part of town, shortly after she received the recall notice. To Honda's credit, they did pay for the tow and fixed the problem, but she had to run the car a few miles home with the oil light on in order to assure her safety (and yes, the oil was GONE.)

After the Audi, I got a Nissan, which has been fairly good now after 6 years. There have been some minor problems, but the dealer has taken care of them without hassle. If I had a lousy dealer, my opinion of the brand might be different.

After the Honda, my wife had a Subaru which was great in the snow. It loved to warp brake rotors (even new ones), and pulled to the left from Day 1, a problem that no one was able to figure out in the 120k miles and 7 years that we owned the vehicle (oddly, tire wear was normal). What turned me off to Subaru was that the car was affected by the well-known head gasket issue, even though Subaru claimed that it wasn't by VIN. After less than 80k miles, we had coolant dripping on the garage floor, and Subaru [corporate] tried to tell us that because we didn't have the engine oil and tire rotations done at the dealer, that we could have caused or contributed to the problem. We had that mess fixed on our dime and drove the car until it developed an A/C issue. After that, we dumped it and bought another Nissan which, so far, has been trouble-free.

If I were buying today, I'd probably look at the big 3 Japanese manufacturers (Toyota, Nissan, Honda) as well as Ford. I think that all of them are probably equivalent on quality these days, seem to have a relatively healthy business, and all of them produce competitive products. The one thing that I've learned, though, is that it's important to shop DEALERS as well as cars. ALL makes of cars have problems, and if you need warranty work, you will be relying on the dealer to come through for you.


JKG
 
... and a little data to add to the conversation. Also note the industry overall reduction in problems/100 vehicles number in addition to the ranking.

2005089a.gif

6a00d83451b3c669e201310fb659d3970c-800wi

6a00d83451b3c669e20167626592c4970b-800wi
 
I get a kick out of those JD Power numbers. They separate Lincoln and Ford, which are the same vehicles with different trim. Haha.
 
By the way... Just picked up the Jetta and when I got in my Yukon I laughed, Avg fuel economy on the DIC was a full MPG lower than my usual.

Someone has a lead foot in the family, and it's not me. That would be Speed Racer taking off for her errands in the Jetta over there... Hahaha. ;) ;) ;)
 
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