NA Price Check brake repair

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Let'sgoflying!

Touchdown! Greaser!
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Feb 23, 2005
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west Texas
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Dave Taylor
2003 Toy 4Runner
machine 4 rotors, all new pads.
Nothing out of the ordinary happened; everything came apart easily and no wear or damage in associated components. Standard 'brake job'.
Rural prices.
 
That depends on a huge number of variables, so I'd have to say somewhere between $50 and $1000. The higher number goes if (a) you're wrong about "no damage" (calipers stick easily), (b) rotors are under minimum or heavily grooved, and (c) your "rural" mechanic has you by the short-n-curlies.

If there really were "no wear," you don't need a brake job.

What the hell does "rural prices" mean? Locally, I see low labor rates and high materials.
 
Trying to give you as much useful info as possible without getting crazy.Just a typical or average price for the stated description would be helpful.
 
Nvmnd, I found several online repair estimators which are providing me with the info I need; thanks.
 
Don't be surprised if they are FAR off base. National queries in lieu of an actual quote based on an inspection are incredibly unreliable.
 
$580 for two new rotors for the front and turning rotors on the rear, new pads and one caliper for the front as it had stuck. 2005 Explorer southern Ohio. Roughly $300 in parts 6hours labor
 
tree96 said:
$580 for two new rotors for the front and turning rotors on the rear, new pads and one caliper for the front as it had stuck. 2005 Explorer southern Ohio. Roughly $300 in parts 6hours labor
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That's about right for that work. My '04 Explorer needed all 4 calipers and was a bit more that that.
 
Used rotors are about $50 each for most vehicles
 
Agreed, most generic rotors are so cheap these days, many shops won't even bother to try and throw the old ones on a lathe. I sure as hell wouldn't bother with used rotors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
20yrs ago, we sold lots of rotors and drums and would turn then on a lathe as part of the purchase service. But that was before the big box parts stores were everywhere and such items got super cheep. Now I just harvest them for the short iron value.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Agreed, most generic rotors are so cheap these days, many shops won't even bother to try and throw the old ones on a lathe. I sure as hell wouldn't bother with used rotors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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And if you factor in the time taking the rotors into get turned, and then picking them back up, it is way easy to just buy new.
 
Often you can get better deals on superior aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors too, check summit racing.

Upgraded and new for both front, cheaper options too.


EBC-GD7380.jpg




Brake Rotors, Slotted, Dimpled, Iron, Black Zinc Plated, Front, Toyota, Pair
$219.95
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http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-gd7237


Or

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-rk7237

ebc-rk961.jpg


Disc Brake Rotor, Ultimax OE, Iron, Black Zinc, Solid Surface, Toyota, Front, Pair

$112.63
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Not a fan of turning rotors, not a good use of money and you are taking more meat off the rotor.
 
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JoseCuervo said:
And if you factor in the time taking the rotors into get turned, and then picking them back up, it is way easy to just buy new.
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Well, except I also have new rotors turned. You'd be surprised how many aren't true. They can get pretty beat up while being shipped half way around the world from China.

I have them turned just enough to true them up or confirm they're true in the first place. It typically only takes one or two passes but is needed. If it takes more than that then I don't buy that rotor.
 
timwinters said:
I have them turned just enough to true them up or confirm they're true in the first place. It typically only takes one or two passes but is needed. If it takes more than that then I don't buy that rotor.
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That's a good practice that will save wear/tear on pads and calipers.
 
James331 said:
Often you can get better deals on superior aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors too, check summit racing.

Upgraded and new for both front, cheaper options too.

Not a fan of turning rotors, not a good use of money and you are taking more meat off the rotor.
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Unless you're doing some heavy towing, or running some autocross, upgrading to a drilled/slotted rotor won't be of much difference vs a standard rotor on most vehicles. The pad surface area is where the most benefit would be, and that doesn't change much unless you get larger rotors. Also, as long as the rotors aren't warped, they typically have plenty of material to turn them on a lathe and re-use a second round.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Unless you're doing some heavy towing, or running some autocross, upgrading to a drilled/slotted rotor won't be of much difference vs a standard rotor on most vehicles. The pad surface area is where the most benefit would be, and that doesn't change much unless you get larger rotors. Also, as long as the rotors aren't warped, they typically have plenty of material to turn them on a lathe and re-use a second round.
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Speaking as a guy who drives steep curvy mountain roads daily, brake fade will never be a problem with standard rotors if you drive competently, as long as you stay out of the racing and heavy towing regimes.

Drilled and slotted rotors makes them prone to warping; it weakens the rotor along the slots. For negligibly "increased" performance at reasonable speeds.

I've never run into new rotors sufficiently off-true to feel in the pedal. I have run into Toyota rotors that would warp when hot and flatten when cold, while still thicker than minimum. It's a thermal mass thing. As the price difference between new and resurfacing rotors is quite small these days, I don't bother resurfacing them anymore for that reason and the thermal warping thing.

Honestly, though, if price is a worry, changing pads and rotors (with new) is a stupid-easy DIY job. In a Toyota sedan, you can do it with a socket set, breaker bar (or 3/4 inch galvanized pipe), C-clamp, and maybe a large Phillips screwdriver, and a torque wrench and pair of jackstands is recommended. If I remember right, 12, 14 and 17 mm sockets. Just make sure to change the calipers if there is any doubt about condition (especially if the pads are not worn all the same), and flush the brake fluid if it's dirty (likely). And inspect the wheel bearings, balljoints, and suspension.
 
Do it yourself. It really isn't that hard of a job.
Buy rotors and pads on amazon as they are cheaper than the local stores generally. I used to buy brake pads in the local parts stores when they offered a true lifetime warranty. They don't anymore so I don't buy those parts locally anymore.

Use disc brake quiet and lubricant for the rotor pins. Buy better quality pads and rotors.
 
MAKG1 said:
Speaking as a guy who drives steep curvy mountain roads daily, brake fade will never be a problem with standard rotors if you drive competently, as long as you stay out of the racing and heavy towing regimes.

Drilled and slotted rotors makes them prone to warping; it weakens the rotor along the slots. For negligibly "increased" performance at reasonable speeds.

I've never run into new rotors sufficiently off-true to feel in the pedal. I have run into Toyota rotors that would warp when hot and flatten when cold, while still thicker than minimum. It's a thermal mass thing. As the price difference between new and resurfacing rotors is quite small these days, I don't bother resurfacing them anymore for that reason and the thermal warping thing.

Honestly, though, if price is a worry, changing pads and rotors (with new) is a stupid-easy DIY job. In a Toyota sedan, you can do it with a socket set, breaker bar (or 3/4 inch galvanized pipe), C-clamp, and maybe a large Phillips screwdriver, and a torque wrench and pair of jackstands is recommended. If I remember right, 12, 14 and 17 mm sockets. Just make sure to change the calipers if there is any doubt about condition (especially if the pads are not worn all the same), and flush the brake fluid if it's dirty (likely). And inspect the wheel bearings, balljoints, and suspension.
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You don't even need a c-clamp to compress the pistons...A quick trip to Kragen (or O'Reilly, or whatever its called these days), and they will have all the tools you need on loan. They simply charge your credit card, and you can return the tools within a day or two for a complete refund on your card. Just be sure to return them....Because a friend of mine is now the proud owner of a 32mm socket for roughly $30 because he forgot to give it back...
 
vkhosid said:
You don't even need a c-clamp to compress the pistons...A quick trip to Kragen (or O'Reilly, or whatever its called these days), and they will have all the tools you need on loan. They simply charge your credit card, and you can return the tools within a day or two for a complete refund on your card. Just be sure to return them....Because a friend of mine is now the proud owner of a 32mm socket for roughly $30 because he forgot to give it back...
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This is all true, but I'd rather save the extra trip to OReilly.

If the calipers are in nice shape, you can usually compress them with your thumbs, with effort. If it takes really cranking down on anything, they are likely to stick.
 
Just did the rotors and pads on my 15 year old's Audi. Already have the special tools since we have a couple of other Audi's and VW's. New EBC Green pads and the USR rotors, 580$ at the door. I upgraded to the EBC's for the reduced dust factor and the Green's have a better braking force over stock parts.
 
Audi, VW, Seat and Skoda all need a windback tool for the rear calipers, unless they have the electric parking brakes. Some of the them also require VCDS to reset the rear pad calibration for the brake warning system.
 
Just be aware that some rear disc brakes (Mazda 3 for instance) require you to put pressure and then turn the pistons to get them to compress. It's part of the parking brake system. DON'T JUST SQUEEZE IT WITH A C CLAMP!

John
 
MAKG1 said:
This is all true, but I'd rather save the extra trip to OReilly.

If the calipers are in nice shape, you can usually compress them with your thumbs, with effort. If it takes really cranking down on anything, they are likely to stick.
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Compressing brake caliper pistons by hand? Come on...be serious. Just because it MIGHT be possible to do it (and that's a big "might") doesn't make it a good or practical idea. The inability to compress the pistons with your thumbs is not an indicator of stuck pistons. Additionally, if we're talking about doing things the "proper" way, then you would need to loosen the bleed screw, push the piston back, and then tighten the bleed screw. Otherwise you run the risk of pushing contaminants back into the brake line. However, opening the bleed screw exposes you to other problems, like allowing air into the system....all about what's practical...

jsstevens said:
Just be aware that some rear disc brakes (Mazda 3 for instance) require you to put pressure and then turn the pistons to get them to compress. It's part of the parking brake system. DON'T JUST SQUEEZE IT WITH A C CLAMP!

John
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EXACTLY...I say again....use the right tool for the right job
 
vkhosid said:
Compressing brake caliper pistons by hand? Come on...be serious. Just because it MIGHT be possible to do it (and that's a big "might") doesn't make it a good or practical idea. The inability to compress the pistons with your thumbs is not an indicator of stuck pistons. Additionally, if we're talking about doing things the "proper" way, then you would need to loosen the bleed screw, push the piston back, and then tighten the bleed screw. Otherwise you run the risk of pushing contaminants back into the brake line. However, opening the bleed screw exposes you to other problems, like allowing air into the system....all about what's practical...



EXACTLY...I say again....use the right tool for the right job
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Dude, there's a big difference between applying slightly more than hand pressure with a C-clamp, and cranking down hard on it. If it requires excessive force for you to do it, the car won't be able to do it either and will drag the brakes. I've never had trouble doing it by hand on a Toyota sedan, or even on a Ford mini truck. The Chevy truck, on the other hand, needed help.

If you need a balljoint screw press and impact wrench to get the pistons in, the caliper is shot or you're doing something wrong.

I always follow a brake job by a flush, so any contaminants (or air) that go in the lines will go out. Honestly, though, used brake fluid in the reservoir is saturated with water unless it's very new -- DOT 3/4 brake fluid is hydrophyllic -- so you're putting contaminants in the line every time you use the brakes. Most manufacturers do not include brake fluid changes in the maintenance schedule, so that fluid is often as old as the youngest hydraulic component.
 
Some vehicle calipers can be compressed with a c-clamp (or your thumbs if you really want to show your manliness I suppose), however I've worked on a few that require the piston to be screwed back in with the proper tool connected to a ratchet. Also, some manufacturers (looking at you Honda) have a couple of rotor safety screws which become heat-welded into place. It often requires a a dead-blow screwdriver or some ingenuity with an air chisel to get them loose. I still can't understand what their purpose is, and I never replace the screws when putting on new rotors, lol.

I don't pay for pad/rotor replacements because they are generally very simple and my time isn't as valuable to me as my cash is. :) Just like with anything else on a vehicle, working on the brakes really makes you want to take to engineer/designer of the parts out for a beer for making it so easy, or kick him straight in the junk while you force him to fix your car.
 
timwinters said:
Well, except I also have new rotors turned. You'd be surprised how many aren't true. They can get pretty beat up while being shipped half way around the world from China.

I have them turned just enough to true them up or confirm they're true in the first place. It typically only takes one or two passes but is needed. If it takes more than that then I don't buy that rotor.
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I have never had new ones turned, and, if the ones I am buying are that out of spec, I would by a higher quality.

And, I doubt the kid in the back that is going to true them up for you is as competent as the guy at the factory that did it originally.

I don't re-machine any parts I buy at a auto parts store. That is the point of buying new parts.

And, it is all about time. If I can buy all the pads and rotors in one trip to the store, then everything is new and replaced in the minimum amount of time. Multiple trips and waiting to get rotors turned isn't a good use of my day.
 
JoseCuervo said:
And, I doubt the kid in the back that is going to true them up for you is as competent as the guy at the factory that did it originally.
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Agree, that's why I do it myself. They know me, I built their store, so I just walk in the back and do it.

The factory might do a great job but you're missing the part that, even if they do, the rotors get beat up in shipping. I think you'll be amazed at what you find if you start checking them.

Admittedly though, I'm overly anal retentive.
 
timwinters said:
Agree, that's why I do it myself. They know me, I built their store, so I just walk in the back and do it.

The factory might do a great job but you're missing the part that, even if they do, the rotors get beat up in shipping. I think you'll be amazed at what you find if you start checking them.

Admittedly though, I'm overly anal retentive.
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How does shipping get a rotor out of true?

I could understand it getting bent or gouged, but no one ships a rotor while it's spinning.
 
MAKG1 said:
How does shipping get a rotor out of true?
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Do you know the proper way to store rotors? If so do you think they are stacked that way during the entire time they are shipped from China, set on a shelf in the warehouse, and put in a tote to be delivered to the store? Do you know how long it takes a rotor to warp when they're not stored properly oriented?

All I know is very few rotors that I buy are true, and I don't buy cheap ones. they almost always benefit from being ran over once or twice. Plus I think the scoring helps the brake pads and rotors seat quicker.
 
timwinters said:
Do you know the proper way to store rotors? If so do you think they are stacked that way during the entire time they are shipped from China, set on a shelf in the warehouse, and put in a tote to be delivered to the store? Do you know how long it takes a rotor to warp when they're not stored properly oriented?

All I know is very few rotors that I buy are true, and I don't buy cheap ones. they almost always benefit from being ran over once or twice. Plus I think the scoring helps the brake pads and rotors seat quicker.
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Considering that I never get runout sufficient to feel over the lifetime of brake pads (and the rotors always get replaced with the pads), it doesn't matter. There will be no consequence.

Optimizing a problem that doesn't exist just makes it take longer and cost more.

And I do buy cheap ones. They are just lumps of cast iron with a couple of flat surfaces. It's much more important to make sure your wheel bearings and calipers (including slide rails) are in good shape, and to clean the gunk off the hub.
 
MAKG1 said:
Considering that I never get runout sufficient to feel over the lifetime of brake pads (and the rotors always get replaced with the pads), it doesn't matter. There will be no consequence.

Optimizing a problem that doesn't exist just makes it take longer and cost more.

And I do buy cheap ones. They are just lumps of cast iron with a couple of flat surfaces. It's much more important to make sure your wheel bearings and calipers (including slide rails) are in good shape, and to clean the gunk off the hub.
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Spoken by a person who doesn't think rotors can warp unless they're spinning.:rolleyes:
 
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As a master automotive tech for 10years everybody in this thread is the reason I drink.
our pricing would be:
Pads $99 lifetime warranty
Machine rotors 30 a piece
98 bucks labor
Same price for the rear, if you need rotors generally $69-89 a piece
 
I'm going flying this morning. I'm going to spend about 15 to 20 minutes thoroughly preflighting the plane. I'll also sump the tanks. This even though over 14 years and almost 2,000 hours of flying I've never found an issue with my plane or water in the fuel during a preflight. Just think of all the time I could save by kicking the tires and lighting the fire.

And yet a majority of the new rotors that I've touched with a lathe benefitted from it...but some here consider it a waste of time and belittle the idea. I consider that 20 to 30 minutes time well spent. Likely because I approach almost everything in life as anally as I approach flying.
 
Criitter7 said:
As a master automotive tech for 10years everybody in this thread is the reason I drink.
our pricing would be:
Pads $99 lifetime warranty
Machine rotors 30 a piece
98 bucks labor
Same price for the rear, if you need rotors generally $69-89 a piece
Click to expand...

Sounds like very fair pricing.
 
timwinters said:
I'm going flying this morning. I'm going to spend about 15 to 20 minutes thoroughly preflighting the plane. I'll also sump the tanks. This even though over 14 years and almost 2,000 hours of flying I've never found an issue with my plane or water in the fuel during a preflight. Just think of all the time I could save by kicking the tires and lighting the fire.

And yet a majority of the new rotors that I've touched with a lathe benefitted from it...but some here consider it a waste of time and belittle the idea. I consider that 20 to 30 minutes time well spent. Likely because I approach almost everything in life as anally as I approach flying.
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Poor analogy. Preflight is a safety issue. Out of true brakes are a longevity issue.

If you want to waste time and shorten brake lifetime by machining when it's not necessary, go ahead. Just don't claim it IS necessary, 'cause it isn't.

A better analogy would be removing the cowling and checking for minor oil leaks with no prior evidence of leakage. Betcha don't do THAT every flight.
 
Out of true brakes aren't a safety issue. Got it.:rolleyes:

Trueing up the rotors shortens the life of the pads and calipers. Got it. :rolleyes:
 
timwinters said:
Out of true brakes aren't a safety issue. Got it.:rolleyes:

Trueing up the rotors shortens the life of the pads and calipers. Got it. :rolleyes:
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Yes, that's right.

You can still stop on brakes that vibrate. Except they don't fresh out of the box.

Removing unnecessary steel does shorten life. Like it or not. And unless you grind the rotor on the vehicle, you may be ADDING runout by "trueing" it.

I also claim BS about never finding preflight issues in 2000 hours. I find issues regularly, from low tires, to a leaking brake, burned out light, low oil, etc. Everything seems all or nothing. There is actually a SPECIFICATION for maximum TIR on a brake rotor. Anything under that is sufficient.
 
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Gotta admit, I've never even considered turning a new, out of the box rotor. I'd bet that Tim's right....bet they're out of true more than I'd ever guess. That being said, considering the caliber of car I typically buy/drive, it would make no sense. (10 yr old Toyota's, with 150k+ on them). Trust me, I've got bigger issues than that....o_O
 
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