Yes.
And I think it is an outside issue.
I just went outside and sprayed water on the unit outside.
I came back in and all the outputs were in the low 40s
That lasted about 10 min and they are back up in the mid 60s. I am led to believe that thing is not exchanging heat properly.
Actually if you temporarily increased the efficiency of the outdoor unit via evaporation and the air temp output inside dropped 20F, it's likely you just have an undersized outdoor unit or one that isn't efficient enough for the heat load presented. It's moving heat fine, just not enough of it. You temporarily made the outdoor unit more efficient.
By the way, don't spray city water on it often when it's running. The evaporation will deposit minerals on the fins as well as accelerate corrosion, and all sorts of other bad things if done too often (snake oil salespeople sell AC unit "misters" and it increases efficiency for a couple of years and destroys the cooling fins rapidly).
Some... Very few... Very high efficiency AC units pump and sling or spray their own condensate onto the fins, but condensate doesn't have minerals, chlorine, etc.
Back to your problem, sub-cooling as cooling with water like that is called (as is directly cooling the "hot" line before it enters the cooling fins) messes with the differential pressure between the high and low side and MAYBE your test indicates that there's a problem in the unit with whatever controls metering of the coolant, but that's unlikely.
Most often if you're artificially increasing the cooling capability of the outdoor unit and it blows that much colder inside, the heat transfer mechanism (the refrigerant going round and round indoors to outdoors) is working fine. It's just that the unit can't cool it enough outside.
What SEER rating is the unit and has anyone shown you any heat load numbers for what it's expected to cool?
If it's undersized there's really only one free solution... Set it to start much sooner so it's exchanging heat outdoors long before the peak heat of the day.
Otherwise it's have someone do a heat load analysis and see if the unit can actually move that much heat.
It also sounds like you got your damper thing solved or at least bypassed. Moving lots of air on the indoor side is rarely a problem and if it's capable of dropping temp 20F more with your water evap test, and the indoor coil didn't freeze into a block of ice, you've got plenty of airflow there.
Your system gets a little weird in that you have two units and you need to make sure they're not doing something silly like fighting each other, but it doesn't sound like that's a problem you're having.
It sounds like you just have a unit sized too small that can't keep up with the cooling needs of the space it's responsible for. Maybe it has a problem or maybe it doesn't but you've proven it can move a lot more heat when you raise its efficiency temporarily.