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Discussion in 'Maintenance Bay' started by NealRomeoGolf, Aug 5, 2020.
broken or backward.
What oil filter cutters do you guys use? Torque wrench?
I "borrow" my A&P's filter cutter. I don't use a torque wrench, because I'm that good. In seriousness, you don't need a torque wrench for the filter. You don't want it very tight in the first place. As soon as it gets snug by hand, I go another 3/4 turn and done.
I suppose a torque wrench would be handy for the drain plug, but most of the engines I've done oil changes on had quick drains installed. Spark plugs is about the only place I ever used a torque wrench when doing owner light maintenance.
No, I've never used a torque wrench as an oil filter cutter ...
I have 3 engines on two airplanes to do, so I have one of these torque wrenches and one of these filter cutters:
I had a criddler steal this from an amazon box on my porch. I still imagine it being the turning point where he stopped doing meth and started doing oil changes for pilots. It works pretty good. They all need a vise.
Asking what torque wrench to use is tantamount to religious discussion.
I never thought of this:
Seems pretty genius ...
I'm gonna try it. Will report back ...
Get a plane with a radial engine and it won't even take 10 hours.
I stopped doing oil changes in my cars about 30+ years ago. I got tired of the mess my 1986 Dodge van made in the driveway because of some design "features" that where in the vehicle. Jeeps marking their territory had nothing on this old beast. I don't miss that "feature" at all.
That is freakin' CLEVER
I did almost 40-50 oil changes in piper Lance which I just sold last year.
1. Engine compartment is tight and while trying to remove filter you will get some superficial lacerations ( mostly will look like straight line on your forearm )
2. Get a proper torque wrench. It will be much easier to remove filter next time. I did it for a while without one and then bought a wrench from tempest. I was surprised that proper torque required was much less than what I was using.
3. have your mechanic install a flexible hose to the drain plug. Attaching the hose to the drain when engine is hot is PIA.
4. Be careful with safely wires it has sharp ends and once I got stuck with it deep into my finger on a cold winter day and that was very painful
Shame Sears has gone under. I picked up the low-end, manual torque wrench for $19 or so back in the early 2000s. But this one will do fine, and it's on sale forr $10 (I may go pick one up tomorrow): https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-Drive-Click-Type-Torque-Wrench-63880.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNjA0MzU2MDQiLCJza3UiOiI2Mzg4MCIsImlzIjoiOS45OSIsInByb2R1Y3RfaWQi OiIxMjk3NyJ9 &cid=paid_google|||63880&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&msclkid=c8d32a3e1c9c1d4674a875113abae965
Buy a 1 in 12 point socket for the end of the oil filter: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-H...19,1520,1507,1540,1505&experienceName=default
Some people swear by a finger tip of oil on the gasket, others prefer the lube (forgot the name).
Get a 5 gal bucket to drain the oil into.
Nitrile gloves aint gonna do it when the engine is hot, and that's when you want to drain the oil. Get a pair of heavy (leather) work gloves
Start taking oil samples!
Another handy gadget - drain the oil from the filter with something like this: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/tempestoildraintool.php
Drain the oil from the filter BEFORE you remove it -- most filters on Lycoming are horizontal, which means a real, miserable mess. I decided to go with "oil bibs" after using the 1/2 gallon milk/juice containers.
I picked up 4 feet of clear 1/2 in hose from the BigBox store. I cut to length I needed from the quick drain into the bucket. Wrap safety wire around the end for the drain, loop it over the "ears" of the drain to make sure it doesn't wander. Advantage of the clear hose - you can verify the oil is coming out, and also see when it stopped so you can clean up, close the drain, and start adding new oil. Also easier to watch the oil drain, and get a sample for testing. The rest of the hose connected to the drain on the filter, into the bucket. Then I go to lunch. By the time I get back, everything is empty.
A funnel from the local auto shop. Makes it so much easier and less messy to add oil.
CamGuard is up to you.
Needle nose pliers - once you finish everything, use the needle nost to "wrap" or form a loop at the end so that there's no loose safety wire end.
I chuck the engine end in my metal lathe & part the can right next to the chuck. Gotta have a pan under the bed though.
I tried it today and while I wasn't nearly as proficient and quick as he was it worked quite well for me.
We completed the ultimate oil change "0" since major today.
OBTW,, my Warner would go 25 hours to the quart. no leaks
A Craftsman model 1019 Laboratory Edition Signature Series torque ... The kind used by Caltech high energy physicists. And NASA engineers.
maybe now I know why my exes hated my planes! Lol
it sounds kinda cool but I'm not using my good shears on filters. I guess a throwaway set.
I wonder how long they would last, making that first cut.
You're sure it was a radial?
I thought radials never needed the oil level checked. If it wasn't leaking it was empty.
That was always my method. If there ain't no oil dripping out of it, means there ain't no oil in it.
The F-14 was like that. Anytime they got parked in the hangar bay they had huge cookie sheets under each engine.
I thought the hardest part was removing and re-installing the lower cowling.
But to answer the original question, an a&p showed me how to do it, and then a second a & p later showed me how to do it correctly.
I have a well-positioned access door, and I had an A&P install a quick drain years ago. I use a slip on hose to drain the oil into a large container that can be closed and taken to an oil disposal tank at a shop on the field.
With an Airwolf firewall mounted filter adapter, filter removal/replacement is quick and simple. Since I began to use the Tempest filter that doesn't require lube to be added to the gasket, I haven't had any issues with sticking filters. I use an Airwolf filter cutter to open it up for inspection, but may try the tin snips method next time to see how that works. I find the hardest and dirtiest part of the job is cutting and removing the pleated filter element to inspect it.
Here you go @NealRomeoGolf did this for you.