Learning to change your own oil

[Salty]

I learned in the Navy where there were certain things where we put safety wire on everything.

People get fiddly with the technical specs of safety wire, how big the loop can be and exactly the right number of twists, but ultimate if it isn't broken, you did it right.

broken or backward.

 

[NealRomeoGolf]

What oil filter cutters do you guys use? Torque wrench?

 

[Salty]

What oil filter cutters do you guys use? Torque wrench?

I "borrow" my A&P's filter cutter. I don't use a torque wrench, because I'm that good. In seriousness, you don't need a torque wrench for the filter. You don't want it very tight in the first place. As soon as it gets snug by hand, I go another 3/4 turn and done.

 

[Juliet Hotel]

I suppose a torque wrench would be handy for the drain plug, but most of the engines I've done oil changes on had quick drains installed. Spark plugs is about the only place I ever used a torque wrench when doing owner light maintenance.

 

[WannFly]

 

[gkainz]

What oil filter cutters do you guys use? Torque wrench?

No, I've never used a torque wrench as an oil filter cutter ...

 

[GRG55]

What oil filter cutters do you guys use? Torque wrench?

I have 3 engines on two airplanes to do, so I have one of these torque wrenches and one of these filter cutters:

 

[schmookeeg]

I had a criddler steal this from an amazon box on my porch. I still imagine it being the turning point where he stopped doing meth and started doing oil changes for pilots. It works pretty good. They all need a vise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005S39PWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Asking what torque wrench to use is tantamount to religious discussion.

 

[Daleandee]

What oil filter cutters do you guys use? Torque wrench?

I never thought of this:

Seems pretty genius ...

 

[Domenick]

I never thought of this:
Seems pretty genius ...

I'm gonna try it. Will report back ...

 

[Ghery]

If it uses enough oil, it changes itself every 10 hours or so. All you need to do is swap the filter every now and then.

Get a plane with a radial engine and it won't even take 10 hours.

Do it on your car a few times for the general process, then stop by a shop at your field and watch a change learn some specific tricks and specialty tools to my your life easier(and cleaner) then you’re good to go. Yes the safety wire is the most difficult part but that can be practiced. Many A&Ps don’t do that well either!

I stopped doing oil changes in my cars about 30+ years ago. I got tired of the mess my 1986 Dodge van made in the driveway because of some design "features" that where in the vehicle. Jeeps marking their territory had nothing on this old beast. I don't miss that "feature" at all.

 

[weirdjim]

I never thought of this:
Seems pretty genius ...

That is freakin' CLEVER

Jim

 

[blueskyMD]

I did almost 40-50 oil changes in piper Lance which I just sold last year.
1. Engine compartment is tight and while trying to remove filter you will get some superficial lacerations ( mostly will look like straight line on your forearm )
2. Get a proper torque wrench. It will be much easier to remove filter next time. I did it for a while without one and then bought a wrench from tempest. I was surprised that proper torque required was much less than what I was using.
3. have your mechanic install a flexible hose to the drain plug. Attaching the hose to the drain when engine is hot is PIA.
4. Be careful with safely wires it has sharp ends and once I got stuck with it deep into my finger on a cold winter day and that was very painful

 

[murphey]

What airplane?

 

[murphey]

I did almost 40-50 oil changes in piper Lance which I just sold last year.
1. Engine compartment is tight and while trying to remove filter you will get some superficial lacerations ( mostly will look like straight line on your forearm )
2. Get a proper torque wrench. It will be much easier to remove filter next time. I did it for a while without one and then bought a wrench from tempest. I was surprised that proper torque required was much less than what I was using.

• Shame Sears has gone under. I picked up the low-end, manual torque wrench for $19 or so back in the early 2000s. But this one will do fine, and it's on sale forr $10 (I may go pick one up tomorrow): https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-Drive-Click-Type-Torque-Wrench-63880.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNjA0MzU2MDQiLCJza3UiOiI2Mzg4MCIsImlzIjoiOS45OSIsInByb2R1Y3RfaWQi OiIxMjk3NyJ9 &cid=paid_google|||63880&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&msclkid=c8d32a3e1c9c1d4674a875113abae965
• Buy a 1 in 12 point socket for the end of the oil filter: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-H...19,1520,1507,1540,1505&experienceName=default
• Some people swear by a finger tip of oil on the gasket, others prefer the lube (forgot the name).
  
• Get a 5 gal bucket to drain the oil into.
  
• Nitrile gloves aint gonna do it when the engine is hot, and that's when you want to drain the oil. Get a pair of heavy (leather) work gloves
• Start taking oil samples!
• Another handy gadget - drain the oil from the filter with something like this: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/tempestoildraintool.php
  
• Drain the oil from the filter BEFORE you remove it -- most filters on Lycoming are horizontal, which means a real, miserable mess. I decided to go with "oil bibs" after using the 1/2 gallon milk/juice containers.
• I picked up 4 feet of clear 1/2 in hose from the BigBox store. I cut to length I needed from the quick drain into the bucket. Wrap safety wire around the end for the drain, loop it over the "ears" of the drain to make sure it doesn't wander. Advantage of the clear hose - you can verify the oil is coming out, and also see when it stopped so you can clean up, close the drain, and start adding new oil. Also easier to watch the oil drain, and get a sample for testing. The rest of the hose connected to the drain on the filter, into the bucket. Then I go to lunch. By the time I get back, everything is empty.
• A funnel from the local auto shop. Makes it so much easier and less messy to add oil.
• CamGuard is up to you.

3. have your mechanic install a flexible hose to the drain plug. Attaching the hose to the drain when engine is hot is PIA.
4. Be careful with safely wires it has sharp ends and once I got stuck with it deep into my finger on a cold winter day and that was very painful

Needle nose pliers - once you finish everything, use the needle nost to "wrap" or form a loop at the end so that there's no loose safety wire end.

 

[NealRomeoGolf]

What airplane?

Piper Lance

 

[nrpetersen]

I chuck the engine end in my metal lathe & part the can right next to the chuck. Gotta have a pan under the bed though.

 

[Daleandee]

That is freakin' CLEVER

I tried it today and while I wasn't nearly as proficient and quick as he was it worked quite well for me.

 

[Tom-D]

We completed the ultimate oil change "0" since major today.

 

[Doug Reid]

Get a plane with a radial engine and it won't even take 10 hours.

Takes about 20 hours on my 755 cubic inch radial...holds 5 gallons of oil...uses about one quart per hour.

When it comes to torque wrenches...be sure to check calibration of a cheap one.

 

[Tom-D]

Get a plane with a radial engine and it won't even take 10 hours.

OBTW,, my Warner would go 25 hours to the quart. no leaks

 

[flyingron]

Shame Sears has gone under. I picked up the low-end, manual torque wrench for $19 or so back in the early 2000s

A Craftsman model 1019 Laboratory Edition Signature Series torque ... The kind used by Caltech high energy physicists. And NASA engineers.

 

[Huckster79]

Hey, we're running a wholesome family site here. Talk about undressing & going over your baby and that whole experience thing with your #1 "mistress" might get you banned.

maybe now I know why my exes hated my planes! Lol

 

[GRG55]

That is freakin' CLEVER

Jim

+1

 

[Let'sgoflying!]

I tried it today and while I wasn't nearly as proficient and quick as he was it worked quite well for me.

it sounds kinda cool but I'm not using my good shears on filters. I guess a throwaway set.
I wonder how long they would last, making that first cut.

 

[Ghery]

OBTW,, my Warner would go 25 hours to the quart. no leaks

You're sure it was a radial?

I thought radials never needed the oil level checked. If it wasn't leaking it was empty.

 

[Juliet Hotel]

You're sure it was a radial?

I thought radials never needed the oil level checked. If it wasn't leaking it was empty.

That was always my method. If there ain't no oil dripping out of it, means there ain't no oil in it.

 

[smv]

You're sure it was a radial?

I thought radials never needed the oil level checked. If it wasn't leaking it was empty.

The F-14 was like that. Anytime they got parked in the hangar bay they had huge cookie sheets under each engine.

 

[SkylaneKY]

The hardest part is learning to safety wire properly. Have your mechanic or someone with experience teach you.

I thought the hardest part was removing and re-installing the lower cowling.

But to answer the original question, an a&p showed me how to do it, and then a second a & p later showed me how to do it correctly.

 

[Ryanflyer]

I have a well-positioned access door, and I had an A&P install a quick drain years ago. I use a slip on hose to drain the oil into a large container that can be closed and taken to an oil disposal tank at a shop on the field.

With an Airwolf firewall mounted filter adapter, filter removal/replacement is quick and simple. Since I began to use the Tempest filter that doesn't require lube to be added to the gasket, I haven't had any issues with sticking filters. I use an Airwolf filter cutter to open it up for inspection, but may try the tin snips method next time to see how that works. I find the hardest and dirtiest part of the job is cutting and removing the pleated filter element to inspect it.

 

[Radar Contact]

Here you go @NealRomeoGolf did this for you.