hindsight2020
Final Approach
Any decoder ring to these wingtips I'm not aware of? Trying to unscrew the position light baseplate and all three screws rotate with due resistance, but don't back out at all.
K2U wingtip position light removal
- Thread starter hindsight2020
- Start date
From your description, more than likely whoever installed the mount plates used nuts on the backside vs nutplates.
hindsight2020
Final Approach
Yeah, I was afraid of that answer coming. So iow, I'd have to remove the wingtip in order to remove the position light.
What an effing idiot, whoever installed these light backplates that way. Oh well, that will be another job to pawn off to ye ol mechanic when the ADSB mandate takes effect. There goes my one hour install LOL. If I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any. Thanks for the feedback nonetheless.
How would he put it back on?
Just be sure he installs some nutplates before reinstalling the wing tip.
hindsight2020
Final Approach
Yeah, it was just the "Effort-Interest" continuum of it all. These aftermarket things have a gazzilion screws plus some sort of caulk sealant (all around the the metal wing and fiberglass wingtip mating line) which I would have to figure out what it is, procure and re-apply. Just wasn't the quick hangar project I thought I was getting myself into when I went to the airport to unscrew the position light.
In reality, I'm just probably uber antagonized by the ADSB out mandate. I'd probably exhibit more legitimate interest in the stupid little project if it wasn't related to that. We'll see. It's not a pressing thing right now.
hindsight2020
Final Approach
Yea, but I can't help but posit: "what has posterity done for me lately?" I joke of course; I'd probably be a nicer person for the next owner, pay it forward kinda thing.
James331
Ejection Handle Pulled
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Dang, that sucks, and having sealant around it seems kinda odd.
All the Cessna ones I’ve pulled off, the pilatus ones I’ve helped with, and I think a arrow as well have all just been a quick and easy few screws and a helper or bench to hold it while you pop the wire connector loose.
Considering most position light mount plates are never removed during their lifetime, at least from my perspective, the nuts would be fine to reinstall. However, if your intent is to put one of those ADSB beacon lights on, then nutplates would probably be a more prudent choice as I doubt the beacon will have a similar lifespan.
Timbeck2
Final Approach
How would he put it back on?
rivet nuts
Ha. Considering I've drilled out more rivnuts than I care to admit, I believe their only good purpose is on interior trim panels. But yes they would work at least once.
Timbeck2
Final Approach
'splain please. What's the issue?
Mostly lack of experience by the installer to include A&Ps. Main issue is the use of keyless rivnuts where a keyed version is needed or use in materials that do not provide the base for the rivnut to clinch down on when they're pulled. Add in some lube or dissimilar corrosion between fastener and rivnut and the rodeo starts. Unfortunately, there are cases where rivnuts are the only option. But normally in those cases the ones installed by an OEM last and the ones that are replaced don't unless you follow all the instructions.
Timbeck2
Final Approach
Thanks for that. What about the rivnuts that have the ribbing on the barrel instead of the keyed? You obviously have more experience than I on this subject. I'm only asking so I can learn. I've seen some of the Harbor Freight nuts installed (home builds) that do not have ribs OR keys. I doubt that they'll last long and if you installed them in plastic or fiberglass, you'd have to clench them so tight you'd break the host material.
That's part of the problem. The other side is that the grip range on most rivnuts is rather large. Where they fail the most is at the thinner side of the range. But there are cheats that work. If installing in thin material add a washer where possible to fill up some of the grip range. Another use glue/sealant when installing or use a barrier grease if putting steel crews into an aluminum rivnut.
The main issue is the required torque of the fastener. It's not so much going in, but when you need to remove it. That's were the "ribbing" or keyed version come into play. There are also nutserts and other types of of blind nuts out there. So if you take the time to install them correctly you definitely cut your cussing down when it's time to disassemble.
Timbeck2
Final Approach
Thank you sir. Appreciate the info.
How would he put it back on?
That’s not the problem being discussed.