How to make a battery last

Rykymus

Rykymus

Line Up and Wait
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Rykymus
My last battery only lasted about two years. The new one is a sealed unit. I recently saw a thread on POA where someone (I think it was Doc Bruce) talked about making his batteries last using a battery minder/desulfanator on all his batteries. I would like to make my new battery last as long as possible. And now that I have a hangar with electricity, I would like to get one and hook it up.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

Is there something (a tail or something) I can rig so that I don't have to disconnect the battery cables and reconnect them for every flight?

Any other tricks/tips/warnings?

Thanks

BTW: It's for a 98 Archer III
 
The BatteryMinder for aviation comes with a wiring tail, as you call it, which your mechanic can install. In my plane, I access it through the oil door. It is convenient to use. This charger costs over $200 but it is really good.

Another tip, if you are using a cell-phone switch or wifi switch for an engine heater, you can use another similar outlet for the charger. I turn my charger on only when the engine compartment is not hot.

I add water to my flooded cell battery after 6 months, halfway between annuals. My current battery is 4.5 years old and still going strong.
 
Definitely using a BatteryMinder will help. I've been using Concordes on the piston birds for about 5 years now and had very good results using them and a BatteryMinder.
 
Another vote tha batteryminder is good. Dunno if the aviation flavor is required. I use the auto flavor on the belief that aviation batteries use the same chemistry as auto batteries. I’ve yet to be shown credible data that aviation battery chemistry is any different.

The other bit of data is that the power at the hangar is pretty crappy and the batteryminder defaults to gelcell type after every power glitch. If the minor voltage differences are that important it woulda shown by now.
 
Clark1961 said:
Another vote tha batteryminder is good. Dunno if the aviation flavor is required. I use the auto flavor on the belief that aviation batteries use the same chemistry as auto batteries. I’ve yet to be shown credible data that aviation battery chemistry is any different.
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I feel the same way and use the less expensive universal flavor Battery Minder as well. My thought is that charging the battery with the airplane's alternator is far more harsh on it than using a generic charger will be. I've also monitored the output of the Battery Minder charger and haven't observed anything that I believe would be detrimental to battery life.
 
BatteryMinder, there is also a interface cable that your mechanic cable can put in, so you don’t have to use alligator clips every time. Mine is charged all winter 24/7 , and will be plugged in summer too


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Rykymus said:
Any other tricks/tips/warnings?
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1) Check for parasitic drain in your electrical system. This can shorten battery life dramatically even with a Battery Minder connected.

2) Verify the efficiency of your charging system and check/clean all main electrical connections to include the ground side.

3) Don’t excessively discharge battery. If having start problems look to connect a GPU, if applicable. In case of excessive discharge connect an appropriate battery charger as soon as possible as the aircraft charging system will not properly bring the battery to full charge status.

4) As mentioned above, for periods of non-use connect a Battery Minder, other appropriate trickle-chargers, and for extended periods possibly remove the battery and store/charge as recommended.

Above all, monitor the battery charge on a regular basis with a meter. A good fully-charged 12v should read around 12.5-12.7. Anything below 11.0 the battery is considered less than 50% charged.
 
Anyone use a standalone desulfator on aviation batteries? I expect a permanent installation would be problematic, but what about clipping it to the terminals while tied down?
 
make sure your aircraft charging system is adjusted properly....and the voltage regulator is doing its job.
 
All of the above, plus put a coat of white grease (or specialized battery terminal grease) on the battery terminals before you install the cables - in my experience, dirty / corroded terminals are a leading cause of apparent battery failure. Actual causes are excessive discharge (you only get so many cycles), overheating and/or over charging. Excessive vibration doesn't help either.
 
Bell206 said:
Above all, monitor the battery charge on a regular basis with a meter. A good fully-charged 12v should read around 12.5-12.7. Anything below 11.0 the battery is considered less than 50% charged.
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Ive always been told that batteries are considered dead at 11.8v, even though all know that a battery that low will still often crank and start an engine. When I worked in the battery industry that was the figure we used...

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/E38_Battery_SOC_Table.jpg

But the OP has an Archer 3. I think those were 28 volt electrical systems? All this discussion of 14 volt electrical systems will apply but not directly.
 
GeorgeC said:
Anyone use a standalone desulfator on aviation batteries? I expect a permanent installation would be problematic, but what about clipping it to the terminals while tied down?
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The battery minder brand chargers everyone is discussing have a desulfation feature built in. It seems to work pretty well from what I’ve seen.
 
mondtster said:
The battery minder brand chargers everyone is discussing have a desulfation feature built in. It seems to work pretty well from what I’ve seen.
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They also require AC, which some tiedowns lack.
 
WannFly said:
BatteryMinder, there is also a interface cable that your mechanic cable can put in, so you don’t have to use alligator clips every time. Mine is charged all winter 24/7 , and will be plugged in summer too


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Click to expand...

I use the automotive battery minder, also probably will take longer to ask the mechanic to do it, taxi over, and pick it up than to just install it yourself
 
Don't charge it when it is hot (ie 90F) out (I set my trickle charger to go a few hours early in the morning)
Set, if able, ship's VR to correct charging voltage (many wet cell, 12v batteries need 13.9, and 14.1 is getting too high according to one mfg) and set the alarm limits on your JPI etc so you will know when it is getting too high.
Don't let it discharge too much & never completely discharge ie leaving master on, not flying for a month in the winter esp without a tender.
If a reasonable amount of cranking is not starting the engine, save battery and starter and knock it off!
Never let the plates in wet cell get exposed to air.
 
mondtster said:
Ive always been told that batteries are considered dead at 11.8v
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Depends on the battery OEM, construction, design, etc. I've seen figures from 10.5 volts up to 12.2 volts considered "out-of-service." But the only true way to check its health is through a "capacitance discharge test" to factory specs.
 
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Let'sgoflying! said:
Don't charge it when it is hot (ie 90F) out (I set my trickle charger to go a few hours early in the morning)
Set, if able, ship's VR to correct charging voltage (many wet cell, 12v batteries need 13.9, and 14.1 is getting too high according to one mfg) and set the alarm limits on your JPI etc so you will know when it is getting too high.
Don't let it discharge too much & never completely discharge ie leaving master on, not flying for a month in the winter esp without a tender.
If a reasonable amount of cranking is not starting the engine, save battery and starter and knock it off!
Never let the plates in wet cell get exposed to air.
Click to expand...

The battery minders have a temp sensor on the unit, and also a lead for a remote sensor
 
Each battery manufacturer has their own ICA's for their own battery. These may be supplemented or superseded by the aircraft maintenance manual.

The SLABs in the aircraft I look after last a very long time with no problems and we just follow the recommended practices. Way nicer than those maintenance hog Ni-Cads!
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
Set, if able, ship's VR to correct charging voltage (many wet cell, 12v batteries need 13.9, and 14.1 is getting too high according to one mfg) and set the alarm limits on your JPI etc so you will know when it is getting too high.
Click to expand...

Set the regulator to the figures specified in the aircraft manufacturer's manuals. They vary from the typical automotive settings and are also temperature- dependent. An aircraft's battery acid is also a higher specific gravity than in an auto battery.

See this: http://www.concordebattery.com/otherpdf/ac0811_batteriesconcorde_reprint0811_web4c.pdf

and this: http://www.256.eaachapter.org/Documents/Aircraft Battery Facts and Fallacies-1.pdf
 
James331 said:
I use the automotive battery minder, also probably will take longer to ask the mechanic to do it, taxi over, and pick it up than to just install it yourself
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It needs a log book entry that comes with the kit. I am not sure if PPL is allowed to do it or not


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WannFly said:
It needs a log book entry that comes with the kit. I am not sure if PPL is allowed to do it or not


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A PPL/owner can change a battery and do preventive mx
 
James331 said:
A PPL/owner can change a battery and do preventive mx
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Not talking about changing battery, this is a specific connector that can be attach e to the battery so that u don’t have to use the alligator plugs from battery minder. It involves a p eminent connection to the battery terminal, I will see if I can find the sticker.

Edit: here is the kit
http://www.batteryminders.com/faa-installation-information/


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WannFly said:
Not talking about changing battery, this is a specific connector that can be attach e to the battery so that u don’t have to use the alligator plugs from battery minder. It involves a p eminent connection to the battery terminal, I will see if I can find the sticker.

Edit: here is the kit
http://www.batteryminders.com/faa-installation-information/


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Click to expand...

How is the simple ring connector that comes with the non aviation models "not legal" I just don't see it.
 
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