Hangar Talk - YAHT!

FastEddieB

FastEddieB

Touchdown! Greaser!
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
11,865
Location
Lenoir City, TN/Mineral Bluff, GA
Display Name
Fast Eddie B
Home Airfield
Big T Airport (80TN)
Yet Another Hangar Thread!

As some of you may remember, Karen and I bought a few acres on an airstrip in Lenoir City, TN, not far from Knoxville (Big T airport - 80TN).

We've cleared some land and are starting to plan on a hangar. Karen found this online and thinks it would make a nice concept:

33405618716_4cf8766689_z.jpg


The idea is about a 60' x 40' main hangar with an efficiency/office on the main level, and a small apartment and observation deck above.

We're looking for recommendations for a reputable hangar or steel building manufacturer. And, of course, any to stay away from with associated horror stories.

This is something we'd like to get started on this year. Any help or advice appreciated!
 
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Check codes for sprinkler requirements. Might end up required with 3 levels in some areas. Looks like fun!
 
I'd definitely look at adding living space across the entire 2nd story instead of leaving open roof. Can't be that much more expensive to frame out, even if you left it unfinished for future expansion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Seriously, I'd extend those roof lines out over the balconies for shade plus water and snow runoff.
 
flyingron said:
Why steel?
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It's not a requirement.

The land is zoned agricultural, so technically we're building a barn. A barn we can put hangar doors on and park an airplane in it and have electrical and water and septic, but still a barn.

The owner of the strip built a nice steel Quonset Hut style hangar for about $40k a while back. He said leaks are an incessant problem and he would not do it again.

In the background here:

33194485636_a9fca1c770_z.jpg
 
We have a mixture of metal hangars and stick built ones here on the airpark. I've not really seen any tremendous advantage to steel. Mine is stick built.
 
Wrap around deck on the top level would be cool, I like the idea!!

Post some pics when your start on it


denverpilot said:
That third floor is going to get hot. Plan on some sort of zoned HVAC.
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Good setup to incorporate a wind tower

image.png
 
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I built a steel building last year - 1/3 shop, 2/3 hangar. Started about now when the rains came. I'm in middle TN south of Lebanon. Depending on what you do inside, multiply the price of the delivered building by 2 - 3 times and you will have your finished price. (That doesn't include living quarters.) Note that the the steel building is delivered for "you" to erect. If you hire a contractor (I did) even with a recommendation from the steel supplier he is your problem, not theirs. If I did it again I would have a written contract with the contractor. It worked out for me and the contractor did a good job, but it could have been otherwise; I got nervous several times. I used General Steel and I'm happy over all, but I would do some things differently. I got a chuckle out of the "erected in a week" comment above. It takes a lot of equipment and people to erect a steel building of any size. In my case five people and a crane were here whenever the weather allowed. Took about three calendar months Most contractors rent the equipment as needed, so it has to be available. Site prep and concrete pour alone are likely more than a week. BTW the concrete work is specialized; it ain't just a slab. The mounting points/bolts must be very accurate or the erection becomes a major nightmare. I looked at various other types, steel was my choice, but as mentioned above it is not the cheapest.

PM me if you have questions or want to visit.

Ernie
 
Our 40x60 metal pole barn with a 15x60 lean-to doesn't leak a bit. The only time we ever see any water intrusion is at the bottom of the garage doors when there's been heavy winds driving the rain out of the south (doors face the south). It's at least 5 years old at this point and we're very pleased with it, but we also aren't using it as living quarters.
 
FastEddieB said:
Yet Another Hangar Thread!

As some of you may remember, Karen and I bought a few acres on an airstrip in Lenoir City, TN, not far from Knoxville (Big T airport - 80TN).

We've cleared some land and are starting to plan on a hangar. Karen found this online and thinks it would make a nice concept:

33405618716_4cf8766689_z.jpg


The idea is about a 60' x 40' main hangar with an efficiency/office on the main level, and a small apartment and observation deck above.

We're looking for recommendations for a reputable hangar or steel building manufacturer. And, of course, any to stay away from with associated horror stories.

This is something we'd like to get started on this year. Any help or advice appreciated!
Click to expand...

Some experience with erecting buildings and here are my tips:

Definitely go steel. I have pole barns, stick built and steel. No leaks, no bugs, no rot, less upkeep, last longer and better resale value with steel. Try Sentinel Manufacturing, very helpful (800) 327-0790 or (402)395-5076. Hire a good dirt contractor to raise the ground a foot or more where you plan to erect the building and compact it well. Pour concrete footings down to virgin soil or below frost level whichever is more. Use a one foot concrete stem wall above the floor surface around the perimeter of the building, gets your building up out of the dirt and allows you to grade a good slope away from the building. Also helps keep your floor warmer in the winter. Always have two doors on opposite corners of the building, allows for airflow and escape in case of fire. A 9 foot wide overhead garage door is surprisingly cheaper than a walk thru door for the back and more ventilation when you want it. Plus you will find it handy for getting the boat, lawnmower, atv etc. in the building instead of opening the big hangar door. Figure out what size you want then build it 25% larger than that! Put a wash area with a floor drain in one area of the building. Two or three four foot translucent light panels in a sidewall just below the eave is really nice when the door blows shut and the lights don't work or the electricity is out. The concrete floor will cost more than the building. If you are in a high moisture area put silage tarp plastic sheet directly under your concrete floor to keep moisture from coming up thru the floor. Use rebar and not concrete wire mesh! Put your big door on an end wall to take advantage of the truss strength. Also you will have less problems with rain water on your walk thru doors If they are on an end wall and not a sidewall. Put both regular 110 volt lights around the inside doors for that quick in & out of the building to get something and also energy efficient ceiling fixtures for that all afternoon project. Tube style radiant heat is my preference, heats up a big building fast and you don't lose all your heat when you open the big door. You can turn it down when you will not be there. Hope this is helpful.
 
Briar Rabbit said:
Some experience with erecting buildings and here are my tips:

Definitely go steel. I have pole barns, stick built and steel. No leaks, no bugs, no rot, less upkeep, last longer and better resale value with steel. Try Sentinel Manufacturing, very helpful (800) 327-0790 or (402)395-5076. Hire a good dirt contractor to raise the ground a foot or more where you plan to erect the building and compact it well. Pour concrete footings down to virgin soil or below frost level whichever is more. Use a one foot concrete stem wall above the floor surface around the perimeter of the building, gets your building up out of the dirt and allows you to grade a good slope away from the building. Also helps keep your floor warmer in the winter. Always have two doors on opposite corners of the building, allows for airflow and escape in case of fire. A 9 foot wide overhead garage door is surprisingly cheaper than a walk thru door for the back and more ventilation when you want it. Plus you will find it handy for getting the boat, lawnmower, atv etc. in the building instead of opening the big hangar door. Figure out what size you want then build it 25% larger than that! Put a wash area with a floor drain in one area of the building. Two or three four foot translucent light panels in a sidewall just below the eave is really nice when the door blows shut and the lights don't work or the electricity is out. The concrete floor will cost more than the building. If you are in a high moisture area put silage tarp plastic sheet directly under your concrete floor to keep moisture from coming up thru the floor. Use rebar and not concrete wire mesh! Put your big door on an end wall to take advantage of the truss strength. Also you will have less problems with rain water on your walk thru doors If they are on an end wall and not a sidewall. Put both regular 110 volt lights around the inside doors for that quick in & out of the building to get something and also energy efficient ceiling fixtures for that all afternoon project. Tube style radiant heat is my preference, heats up a big building fast and you don't lose all your heat when you open the big door. You can turn it down when you will not be there. Hope this is helpful.
Click to expand...

Also put some guard posts 2" inside the door frame on both sides of your overhead doors just outside of your building. Sometime it will save building or door frame damage.
 
Couple of questions...Why not make the hanger roof the deck and get 270 degrees of view? Where is the access road, do you want the car and plane on the same pavement? Do you have access to fuel on the field or will you need to bring in a fuel trailer and if so where will you park it? Perhaps an overhang opposite the house with a parking pad for such an eventuality.
 
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