Driving a Semi Tractor for Fun

You must not have had the 4.10 rear end on your Dodge... LOL. At 75 with the big trailer I'm over 2000 RPM. Faster would be impossible, well possible until the engine decided to let go spectacularly. But that's okay, trailer tires aren't typically even rated for 75 let alone faster. With the TPMS on them you can watch them get way too hot doing that anyway.

Nope, mine was an '04.5 with 3.73s. I'm assuming that you mean 3,000 RPM, not 2,000? I didn't think there was a need for 4.10s with the Cummins 600. Even towing the enclosed trailer or towing heavy trailers in the Rockies, there was never a time I felt a need for additional power. With that 85 MPH was about 2,500 RPM, 70 was around 2,100. It was very nice on the highway.

My first Excursion had towing gears (I think 4.10s, not certain). It did around 2,400 at 70. This new one we bought has highway gears and does 2,000 at 70. Also very nice.
 
Nope, mine was an '04.5 with 3.73s. I'm assuming that you mean 3,000 RPM, not 2,000? I didn't think there was a need for 4.10s with the Cummins 600. Even towing the enclosed trailer or towing heavy trailers in the Rockies, there was never a time I felt a need for additional power. With that 85 MPH was about 2,500 RPM, 70 was around 2,100. It was very nice on the highway.

My first Excursion had towing gears (I think 4.10s, not certain). It did around 2,400 at 70. This new one we bought has highway gears and does 2,000 at 70. Also very nice.

Nah it just runs well above 2000 at 75 MPH which is still plenty inside the safe RPM band for it, but I hate to scream it along since the power band is from about 1700-2000 on the Cummins.

I also don't think it needs it, but it came with it.

It forces me to cruise in 6th which is a known "bad thing" to do to the NV5600 until you've finally killed one and had the rebuilder drill more ports to cool 6th. Dodge says to tow in 5th which is direct 1:1.

I fudge that a little and watch trans temp. In a ripping headwind I have to get out of it and go back to 65 in 5th gear but otherwise on the flat, it isn't burning up 6th completely. But it does get hot for a manual. Have third party cooling fin style covers on the trans that hold more fluid and use a high quality synthetic but it still roasts along pretty hot at 75.

I could go get better numbers on the RPM the next time I drive it to work, but it's a crack up to be in fifth on a city street.

It's too low paired with the NV5600. I wouldn't order one that low if it was new.

Makes 1st gear totally useless for anything other than getting a trailer moving at a stop light. Ha.
 
Nah it just runs well above 2000 at 75 MPH which is still plenty inside the safe RPM band for it, but I hate to scream it along since the power band is from about 1700-2000 on the Cummins.

I also don't think it needs it, but it came with it.

It forces me to cruise in 6th which is a known "bad thing" to do to the NV5600 until you've finally killed one and had the rebuilder drill more ports to cool 6th. Dodge says to tow in 5th which is direct 1:1.

I fudge that a little and watch trans temp. In a ripping headwind I have to get out of it and go back to 65 in 5th gear but otherwise on the flat, it isn't burning up 6th completely. But it does get hot for a manual. Have third party cooling fin style covers on the trans that hold more fluid and use a high quality synthetic but it still roasts along pretty hot at 75.

I could go get better numbers on the RPM the next time I drive it to work, but it's a crack up to be in fifth on a city street.

It's too low paired with the NV5600. I wouldn't order one that low if it was new.

Makes 1st gear totally useless for anything other than getting a trailer moving at a stop light. Ha.

Mine had the NV5600, and I towed all over the country in 6th gear and never had any problems in the 108k miles I had it (which was just broken in). I don't recall any restrictions on 6th gear use in my POH, but I may have missed that section. I doubt I read through the manual cover-to-cover and it's been 12 years since I bought it. 1st was basically just for getting going and for maneuvering around a parking lot. Most of the time I started in 2nd unless I had a full load.

That said, your giant gooseneck travel trailer is bigger than what I was normally towing. I usually an open car hauler (towing up to a dually like yours). You probably should've bought a semi. ;)
 
Also, I obviously had no issues running my Dodge over 2,000 RPM. While peak torque on my engine was 1,600 RPM, peak power was close to 3,000. It was perfectly happy in the 2,000-2,500 RPM range where I cruised all the time. Obviously that's "high" compared to the big Cummins engines that have a sweet spot in the 1,300-1,500 RPM range, but of course it was also a 5.9L rather than something in the 10+L class.
 
Also, I obviously had no issues running my Dodge over 2,000 RPM. While peak torque on my engine was 1,600 RPM, peak power was close to 3,000. It was perfectly happy in the 2,000-2,500 RPM range where I cruised all the time. Obviously that's "high" compared to the big Cummins engines that have a sweet spot in the 1,300-1,500 RPM range, but of course it was also a 5.9L rather than something in the 10+L class.

Yeah it's happy up there, they even upped the max RPM to 3200 in my model year... I'm just a fan of "why flog it" and "more RPM, more wear on everything"...

Due to exhaust and air intake changes mine is also really loud above 2500 RPM, which becomes unenjoyable about four hours into a road trip. It can drone a bit. You end up yelling over it if you try to have a conversation.

Now you have me curious. Maybe I'll go run over to the highway and get ya the numbers on the 4.10. Hehe. Karen is out at rehearsal tonight anyway. :)
 
Well she's not at rehearsal, but that's what her calendar says. Ha. Guess I'm going to play chef instead. Got a deal on pork chops. Think some pork chops, a nice salad, and some sort of rice sounds good. :)

But no videoing the RPM ranges on the highway this evening. Heh.
 
The noise certainly matters. On my stocker, its volume was correct. The right amount of engine noise at all RPM. So there was never an RPM that got really loud.

But the turbo sure bowled in the mountains! ;)
 
The noise certainly matters. On my stocker, its volume was correct. The right amount of engine noise at all RPM. So there was never an RPM that got really loud.

But the turbo sure bowled in the mountains! ;)

I love the turbo whine and whoosh of my hybrid larger turbo. Almost makes me think the thing is turbine powered. Heh. This era of Cummins is anything but quiet, that's for sure. Towing the big trailer the engine noise is pretty constant and what you hear changing is the pitch of the turbo.

I always get a chuckle out of walking past a Duramax/Isuzu running in a Chevy/GMC. Barely can tell they're running.

The Fords seem to fall somewhere in between Dodge and Chevy on external noise level.

Nobody will ever wonder whether my Cummins running or not. Cummins wrote the book on how to make a diesel clatter at idle. Flip on my exhaust brake (the only way to load the engine enough to warm the cab on a bitter cold day prior to getting in, even if the largely unnecessary block heater was plugged in), now you add a whistle/hiss that's almost as loud as the truck to the racket, too.

Good thing I don't live within rock throwing distance of any neighbors anymore.

All the fancy new trucks are all MUCH quieter inside and out.
 
Flip on my exhaust brake (the only way to load the engine enough to warm the cab on a bitter cold day prior to getting in, even if the largely unnecessary block heater was plugged in)

All the fancy new trucks are all MUCH quieter inside and out.

And most now offer an auxiliary electric heater as well.
 
I love the turbo whine and whoosh of my hybrid larger turbo. Almost makes me think the thing is turbine powered. Heh. This era of Cummins is anything but quiet, that's for sure. Towing the big trailer the engine noise is pretty constant and what you hear changing is the pitch of the turbo.

I always get a chuckle out of walking past a Duramax/Isuzu running in a Chevy/GMC. Barely can tell they're running.

The Fords seem to fall somewhere in between Dodge and Chevy on external noise level.

Nobody will ever wonder whether my Cummins running or not. Cummins wrote the book on how to make a diesel clatter at idle. Flip on my exhaust brake (the only way to load the engine enough to warm the cab on a bitter cold day prior to getting in, even if the largely unnecessary block heater was plugged in), now you add a whistle/hiss that's almost as loud as the truck to the racket, too.

Good thing I don't live within rock throwing distance of any neighbors anymore.

All the fancy new trucks are all MUCH quieter inside and out.

I remember about the time I bought my Dodge (which was around the time the PSD 6.0 and the Duramax had come out) I read a Car & Driver article comparing the three diesel trucks. When they got to the Dodge, they noted that it was the loudest, and that if you mention that to the person who owns one, he'll smile and say "Sure is!" The new ones (all three) are significantly quieter, but the Cummins trucks you can always tell if they're running or not. Like you said, the Chevys are basically silent, Fords pretty close.

Last night I was thinking about goals with the new truck. One of the things that annoys me is the fact that the Fords don't have I6 diesels. I don't like Chevy trucks, and I think Ford makes the best overall truck out of the light duty 3/4 or 1-ton trucks. But V8 diesels just sound wrong. If I want something that is as quiet as a gas truck, I'll buy a gas truck. If I get a diesel, part of it is because I want something that sounds like a proper diesel.
 
If I get a diesel, part of it is because I want something that sounds like a proper diesel.



Here, you can enjoy the yummy Cummins sounds in the video. Haha.

So I shot it starting at 65 MPH in 6th, went up to 75 MPH, and the downshifted to 5th for 1:1 in the trans for ya. Note: Ignore crappy shifting technique, I should have feathered it up to about 3000 RPM before I released the clutch but I was kinda busy with the whole video thing.

Note that if I had stayed at 75, it would have been redlined at 3200 or higher... I let the truck drift down to 70 MPH during the downshift.

The 4.10 rear end combined with the NV5600 is just geared too low for 75 MPH with a heavy trailer at anywhere near GCVWR. It's probably the only minor disappointment with the truck but I bought it used that way, so meh.

On the flip side, it'll climb 6% grades in 5th at 65 MPH slowly winding down to 60 MPH with the fully loaded 12,500 max GVWR trailer on behind. :) I just have to watch the trans temp and also get it into 4th and slow up a lot (unfortunately) if another slower vehicle gets in the way or it falls below about 60 MPH because at some point it'll turbo bark in thin air and the turbo pushing 30-32 PSI. LOL.

It's fun but those barks are violent on things that don't like violence. The exhaust manifold gaskets want to retreat to their "safe space". I currently have the audible warnings set to start at 28 PSI on boost to tell me not to be a dick to my turbo. Compressor stall at high altitude baby! Hehehe. :)

If you're in need of more yummy diesel sounds just let me know. Can get ya some windows-open idle revs and activating the exhaust brake. Can't really get a good turbo whine without hooking the trailer up to it though. Heheh. ;)

I forgot to hold the phone up to the EGT/Trans Temp/Boost/Throttle Percentage gauge. Oops! Mmmm. Yummy data. Love that engine computer! :)
 
I remember about the time I bought my Dodge (which was around the time the PSD 6.0 and the Duramax had come out) I read a Car & Driver article comparing the three diesel trucks. When they got to the Dodge, they noted that it was the loudest, and that if you mention that to the person who owns one, he'll smile and say "Sure is!" The new ones (all three) are significantly quieter, but the Cummins trucks you can always tell if they're running or not. Like you said, the Chevys are basically silent, Fords pretty close.

Last night I was thinking about goals with the new truck. One of the things that annoys me is the fact that the Fords don't have I6 diesels. I don't like Chevy trucks, and I think Ford makes the best overall truck out of the light duty 3/4 or 1-ton trucks. But V8 diesels just sound wrong. If I want something that is as quiet as a gas truck, I'll buy a gas truck. If I get a diesel, part of it is because I want something that sounds like a proper diesel.

I never understood why Ford and Chevy went with V8 diesels. Maybe it's just their history with V8 engines, or maybe it's for packaging reasons. I have to think there's a good reason that almost every medium and heavy truck runs an I-6.
 
@denverpilot You're starting to make me wonder if my truck didn't have 4.10s in it and I just didn't realize. Your RPMs are very similar to what mine were, and I had the same transmission. Well, it's been 10 years so I'd say it's pretty irrelevant at this point. :)

I ran mine through the Rockies (didn't have a boost gauge but it would run 30 PSI or so stock). I never ran into barking issues that I can recall, but then again mine was 100% stock while yours has been modified. I'd imagine that Cummins designed it to be idiot proof. They might have even turned down the boost at higher altitudes to keep the pressure ratios such that it wouldn't stall. Turbo made a bunch of noise, but it drove great.

I never understood why Ford and Chevy went with V8 diesels. Maybe it's just their history with V8 engines, or maybe it's for packaging reasons. I have to think there's a good reason that almost every medium and heavy truck runs an I-6.

As I understood it, their goal was to have an engine that would package nicely into their trucks (which had always been designed around V8s). The 6.5-powered C2500 I had and the Ford diesels I worked on all looked underhood very similar to ones that had gasser V8 equivalents. When Dodge joined the party in the late 80s, Cummins (who uses an evolution concept more than revolution) was able to offer the proven engine with great durability. It's proven to be an excellent engine and excellent marketing for the Dodge trucks - in my opinion the only reason to buy a Dodge over a Ford or Chevy is for the Cummins (that's why I bought it). It's the only "real" diesel you can buy in a light duty truck.

The I6 architecture handles the high torque pulses of a diesel inherently better than a V-style. It is possible to have good durability from a V-style engine (as proven on PowerStrokes and even going back to Detroit Diesel 6V71, 8V92, etc.), but the I6s are inherently better and just sound "right."

The clattering of a diesel as the weather gets colder is a very comforting sound to me. Probably because I spent so many winter days behind the wheel of a diesel truck. It just sounds like something powerful that you can depend on.
 
@denverpilot It's proven to be an excellent engine and excellent marketing for the Dodge trucks - in my opinion the only reason to buy a Dodge over a Ford or Chevy is for the Cummins

I thought Dodge (Ram) stopped putting Cummins diesels in their new trucks and now use something from Fiat. Nissan is now where you have to go to get a Cummins.
 
I thought Dodge (Ram) stopped putting Cummins diesels in their new trucks and now use something from Fiat. Nissan is now where you have to go to get a Cummins.

You may be thinking of the diesel that goes in the 1500 series. The 3500 still has the Cummins.
 
I thought Dodge (Ram) stopped putting Cummins diesels in their new trucks and now use something from Fiat. Nissan is now where you have to go to get a Cummins.

The diesel Ram 1500 uses some European diesel, Fiat or whatnot. The 2500/3500 on up still use the Cummins, although it jumped from a 5.9L to a 6.7L sometime in the late 2000s. I think that if Dodge ever went away from Cummins for the bigger trucks it would be suicide and they would lose most of their sales.

However, your comment prompted me to check out both the Ram website and the Nissan website. While at the Ram website, I spec'd the same truck I bought 12 years ago. I paid $32k for that out the door. MSRP on what's effectively the same truck today was just over $50k. Now, there are various discounts, negotiation, etc., so let's say I could get it for $45k. Still seems like a lot. When I run a CPI calculator, it says that $32k in 2004 dollars equals $40k in today's dollars. So it's really not too terribly far off, but it's a still more.

Now if I spec a truck like what I'd buy if I was buying today (1-ton dually, 4x4, etc.) that pushes the MSRP to $58k.

I checked out Nissan for the Cummins they use. Surprisingly (to me) it's a V8 diesel, looks like it's more in the style of the Duramax or PowerStroke. But it's only a little engine at 5.0L, with 310 HP and 555 lb-ft. That's pretty underpowered by today's standards. My Dodge (2004.5) was 325 HP and 600 lb-ft, and I suspect also had a lower redline at just over 3,000, so all that power/torque came in down low.
 
@denverpilot You're starting to make me wonder if my truck didn't have 4.10s in it and I just didn't realize. Your RPMs are very similar to what mine were, and I had the same transmission. Well, it's been 10 years so I'd say it's pretty irrelevant at this point. :)

That or I've been lied to about what's in it. Ha. The sticker that's supposed to confirm under the hood is long gone and I've only looked at the rear end once for the stamps that should confirm it and couldn't find them. So I'm just going on the original order stuff on the window sticker that the original owner kept and what it said but it could be flat wrong. I'd have to do the math to prove it I guess.

I thought Dodge (Ram) stopped putting Cummins diesels in their new trucks and now use something from Fiat. Nissan is now where you have to go to get a Cummins.

That's for the little "cute" diesel in the half tons. The big deal diesel in the heavy duty trucks is still Cummins but they did switch from the 5.9L Cummins to the 6.7 in the half year in 2007.

Here's the full history in the Dodge... the continual increases in HP and torque are impressive. Dodge supposedly has kept up with beefing up the drivetrain to handle it, but they're not known for getting that right... LOL.

https://cumminsengines.com/pickup-truck-cummins-ram-history

Various aftermarket stuff can tune the 5.9 to output much higher HP and torque numbers at the expense of lifespan on the Bosch VP44 fuel pump (making it pump more fuel reduces cooling internally and they love to fail) and tearing up the drivetrain, starting with the clutch on a manual if you have the NV5600 transmission, and wearing out the 3rd and 6th gear in the transmission from completely overheating it.

There's "help" available for the trans both in the cooling (large covers with fins) and internally during rebuilds (drilling/machining better trans fluid galleys/ports for cooling the rear end of the transmission) but little help available for the VP44.

Exacerbating the VP44 heat problem is the common failure of the in-tank lift pump for fuel, and most folks get rid of the thing and add an aftermarket lift pump (Airdog is one brand) under the frame of the truck to attempt to "save" the VP44. Helps for a while but doesn't completely fix the design flaws of the Bosch pump. My Bosch failed around 125,000 miles with an AirDog feeding it.

Even Cummins did a slight tune early on to the 5.9 and you could order it in regular or "HO" (high output) which was a very marginal increase in HP and torque and was available stock from Dodge as a factory order. My truck started life as an HO, and right now with the electrical connections from the aftermarket computer disconnected from the VP44, that's where it sits today.

During the VP44 change the dealer that did it refused to reconnect the aftermarket computer -- of course -- but it's still operational as a series of gauges with all the add-on sensors it uses, like a pyrometer and transmission temp sensor that otherwise aren't on the stock trucks at all... I have plenty of power in this configuration but I'd like to reconnect it to get "towing" mode back which overfuels a bit (cooling) and adds about 100 HP and 50-75 ft lbs of torque, but really it's not necessary with the upsized turbo and bigger injectors. (It didn't have the bigger injectors when I bought it but while the head was off after the head gasket blowout, it was a fine time to put 5 more horsepower upsized injectors into it. And stud it.

And a new exhaust manifold that flows better and moves the turbo to a better location under the hood. And a huge air intake filter and sock similar to what one would see in farm duty, no more tiny Dodge airbox... and it already had an upgraded 4" tip to tail exhaust system with 5" outlet at the back...

It scoots pretty good without the computer. With the computer reconnected in any of the performance modes above Towing Mode, I'd just be wearing out the clutch and u-joints faster, especially if I made a bad shift and got in it too hard before everything was stable... I'd just be tearing out the drivetrain.

The computer also has an "economy" mode that modifies timing of the Bosch a little and reduces fuel flow, which paired with the larger injectors would probably end up nearly "stock".

So one of these days I'll hook it back up but use it sparingly. There are some newer smarter computers on the market that manage timing and injection pulse length a lot more accurately (and based on better long term data) than my "dumb" 90's vintage one. (It's an Edge "with Attitude" brand, but so old they don't even sell it anymore.)
 
While at the Ram website, I spec'd the same truck I bought 12 years ago. I paid $32k for that out the door. MSRP on what's effectively the same truck today was just over $50k.

Truck prices seem to be way up. My 2001 F-150 Supercrew stickered for $34.5k, I paid 29.5k. I recently configured the exact same truck same options and it rings up at $49.5k MSRP. Nuts!
 
@denverpilot One of the things I remember when I had my 2004 was that it basically was where most of the earlier 12/24-vale engines could get with significant upgrades. The difference was it was this way just out of the box. It had a huge intercooler, 4" mandrel bent exhaust, and an upgraded turbo from the 2003 models. I really never felt a want for more power with it, although I did want to put a free-flowing exhaust on it just to help general breathing. Of course there was a price penalty to get to the CRDI models, just as there is today.

Truck prices seem to be way up. My 2001 F-150 Supercrew stickered for $34.5k, I paid 29.5k. I recently configured the exact same truck same options and it rings up at $49.5k MSRP. Nuts!

Yeah, prices always rise, but it seems like a lot of it is just rising more than is reasonable. A good sum of that jump is in the Cummins, which was a $6k option in 2004, and a $9k option now. So if you look at that, the delta on a CPI scale is about $2k, so basically 5%. Still not insignificant. I'd imagine a good sum of that is items dealing with regulations.

Interestingly, I checked the price of a new BMW 7 about a year ago just for grins. Our 740iL was a $70k car back in 1997. Today, you can buy the modern equivalent for... about $70k as well. So BMW has managed to keep the prices on these cars relatively flat. It's interesting that an upper end luxury car has managed to do that, while a more "blue collar" vehicle has gone up so significantly, to the point where it's effectively no longer blue collar.
 
Fine, @denverpilot you've managed to change my mind.

I think I'll put off a semi for the time being, and just look for another Dodge. This time a 1-ton dually as opposed to the 3/4-ton SRW I had. :)
 
Fine, @denverpilot you've managed to change my mind.

I think I'll put off a semi for the time being, and just look for another Dodge. This time a 1-ton dually as opposed to the 3/4-ton SRW I had. :)

Hahaha. Well it could be less fun than a big rig, but at least you can make it sound similar. :)

If you put stacks on it in the front of the truck bed, we will all disown you, however. :)

If you don't need DRW don't go that path. Tires are spendy these days. Ha.
 
Hahaha. Well it could be less fun than a big rig, but at least you can make it sound similar. :)

If you put stacks on it in the front of the truck bed, we will all disown you, however. :)

Yuck. No. Stacks have no place on a pickup.

Yeah, I want a "real" diesel again. I did a search and was able to find a Dodges in the year range I want and the price range I'm willing to pay. Generally 200kish miles, but so long as they're left stock (or at least mostly so) then that's fine.

If you don't need DRW don't go that path. Tires are spendy these days. Ha.

The current needs would certainly be handled by a SRW just fine, but I've rarely gone wrong with buying a bigger [insert vehicle here] than I thought I needed. It won't surprise me if we get a bigger trailer, boat, etc. at some point that would necessitate the dually. Really the trailer we have is undersized for the tractors we have and something with a pair of 7k axles would be better.
 
My nephew has a 2003 dodge dually crew cab 4x4 he was going to sell.

I'd be interested in price/condition/miles etc. I was figuring 03-06 range.
 
Ended up getting my hands on a 2000 F-250 extended cab short bed with a PowerStroke 7.3 with 279k on it. The seller had put almost 100k miles on it and traded it to me for the '97 Jeep Wrangler we had (that we'd traded for the '97 BMW 740iL). I feel like I got the better end of the bargain. Truck is rust-free, in good shape overall, few minor things. The one issue/risk factor (which is what decreased the value) is that there's one cylinder that isn't firing, at least at lower RPMs. I haven't diagnosed fully. The injectors are only around 50k miles (and are upgraded), but it's possible one's gone bad. Transmission was rebuilt and upgraded.

There's also the possibility of a dead cylinder (cracked ring or the like). I'll look into it some more, anyone with PowerStroke 7.3 knowledge and insights, please chime in. :)

The question will be what to do with this truck. It's not what I want for several reasons. Automatic (want a manual), V8 diesel (want an I6 diesel), short bed (want a long bed), extended cab (want crew cab), 4x2 (want 4x4), etc. So I'm thinking I'll probably try to trade it again.
 
The one issue/risk factor (which is what decreased the value) is that there's one cylinder that isn't firing, at least at lower RPMs.

If it is the injector harness it could be an easy fix, but a bear to get too. On the outside of the valve covers, down the center of the engine is the pass through for the injector harness. While the engine is idling rough, "jiggle" the injector harness up and down. If the issue is the connector the engine will smooth out. Once you determine the side, remove the valve cover. To fix, cut a quarter down to fit under the connector tab and put it back together. The other option is to by the "aircraft priced" wiring harness from Ford.

First picture is the where the connector worked lose. The second picture is the "quarter fix."
 

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If it is the injector harness it could be an easy fix, but a bear to get too. On the outside of the valve covers, down the center of the engine is the pass through for the injector harness. While the engine is idling rough, "jiggle" the injector harness up and down. If the issue is the connector the engine will smooth out. Once you determine the side, remove the valve cover. To fix, cut a quarter down to fit under the connector tab and put it back together. The other option is to by the "aircraft priced" wiring harness from Ford.

First picture is the where the connector worked lose. The second picture is the "quarter fix."

I was going to check the injector harness. I have no idea whether or not that was ever addressed on this. There is some smoke, but I need to drive/investigate a bit more to identify the conditions and look at it further. It does seem like one piston is weaker on cranking so that could point to increased probability of a compression issue.
 
I'd find the source of your issue in the 7.3L and then sell it off. While I have no experience with the I6 diesels (plenty of tractors with I4), I'm not sure I'd be willing to pass up something with the 6.4/6.7 or the Duramax stuff just because it's on a V8 block. They seem to have no issue running to 250K+ without too much fuss. I won't own a 3/4 or larger truck without 4WD just out of principle.


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I'd find the source of your issue in the 7.3L and then sell it off. While I have no experience with the I6 diesels (plenty of tractors with I4), I'm not sure I'd be willing to pass up something with the 6.4/6.7 or the Duramax stuff just because it's on a V8 block. They seem to have no issue running to 250K+ without too much fuss. I won't own a 3/4 or larger truck without 4WD just out of principle.

That's the plan with this truck, trade it on down the road.

Both of the 3/4-ton diesels (well at this point I suppose now it's all 3) have been rear wheel drive. If the main thing you do with them is towing (which is what I've done) the 4x2s are a bit better on mileage and have fewer components, plus cheaper to buy. That said, I want 4x4 because it's a good thing to have on our property, if nothing else to keep from tearing up the grass. For me, the automatic transmission is a much bigger deal breaker. I want a clutch and don't understand why so few people bought these 3/4+ ton trucks with manuals. It seems more people did on the Dodge side than on the Ford or GM sides, but even then, the numbers are small.

I don't like GM trucks, so a Duramax is out. The 6.4s and 6.7s are new enough that it'd take a while to get there, and the 6.0s you don't want unless you find one that's been taken very good care of. Of course, the Cummins aren't without their issues, either, but I also prefer the sound of an I6 diesel.
 
Yeah I know what you mean on the towing/fewer moving parts. I was just saying if I'm going to have a truck to keep around to do the dirty work, I'd rather it have 4WD to make use of those times when you really need a truck to get out of a jam. My '08 F-150 is 2WD and I haven't ever been stuck in it, but I sure have to be selective in my route when we get the occasional ice storm or a foot of snow. There have been a couple of times when the truck got parked half way up the driveway because the incline was too much for the 2WD to climb on ice/packed snow.

When I finally replace the F-150, I'll probably go 3/4 or SRW 1-ton diesel, but it'll be 4WD for sure so that I hopefully won't have to replace another truck only putting 5K/yr on it max.


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I had the chance to drive one of these, whole different experience than the old Brockway farm truck.
 

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I had the chance to drive one of these, whole different experience than the old Brockway farm truck.

TransAm trucking is on my way to work. Those T680s are what they run, so I see a lot of them around here.
 
Well, the Avalanche sold last week. Still trying to sell the F250, but that's less important.

I've been searching for a Dodge dually, but keep on coming back to wanting a semi, even though a dually is more appropriate for what I actually need.

So, on to more serious searching.
 
I can't post links yet. But have you had a peek at Boyce equipment? Or the GSA auctions?
 
I can't post links yet. But have you had a peek at Boyce equipment? Or the GSA auctions?

I haven't, but I'm not really looking for military trucks. Peterbilt 352 is what I'm leaning towards. Maybe Kenworth K100 or W900.
 
What is it again that you are trying to tow that you can't to with a F250 ?
 
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