Corrosion & treatment.

zodiacflyguy said:
Well... I did say "technically"... Wasnt looking for an industry term. It was chemistry. Water is known as a universal solvent in chemistry.

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Tom is also the one who claimed "jellied acetone" was an industry term for paint stripper- turned out he was the entire industry.

Tom-D said:
Jellied Acetone is a stripper, not the product you show. It is simply a solvent based stripper that professional paint shops use in bulk.
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Tom-D said:
that is perfectly aligned with what I've said.
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No it isn't. In the other thread you keep saying that the 150 MM is the only thing you need to consult. My clips clearly show that the MM SUPPLEMENTS other sources of data, such as AC43.13. The MM and AC43.13 need to used together in order to make a good decision.
 
Geez, if the topic was peanut butter and the question was crunchy or smooth you guys would find a way to turn it into a ****ing match!
 
Smooth, all the way! :cool:
 
Stewartb said:
Geez, if the topic was peanut butter and the question was crunchy or smooth you guys would find a way to turn it into a ****ing match!
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What is the peanut butter being used for?
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:)
 
MMMMMM PB and honey on fresh bread and a glass of milk. Now this is a debate I can sink my teeth into! :D
 
Cap'n Jack said:
Tom is also the one who claimed "jellied acetone" was an industry term for paint stripper- turned out he was the entire industry.
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Not only that, but there is a bit more in there than just acetone. Of the ingredients in there the acetone is just about the most mild.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 
Keep them doggies trollin', rawhide!
 
JAWS said:
No it isn't. In the other thread you keep saying that the 150 MM is the only thing you need to consult. My clips clearly show that the MM SUPPLEMENTS other sources of data, such as AC43.13. The MM and AC43.13 need to used together in order to make a good decision.
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Remember the 100 manual only started in 68. prior to that they had no manuals for the 100 series.
so read the front page of the 100 manual, and the purpose paragraph of the 43-13 1b.

For the rest of you, when you get your IA you get this guidance by your ASI./ PMI.
GeorgeC said:
Keep them doggies trollin', rawhide!
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Yep, it never quits with some. gotta increase the post count. no matter if the post adds anything to the thread
 
455 Bravo Uniform said:
In theory, chemically the WD40 should do nothing to minor surface corrosion except to "wet" it?
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Exactly, making it easier to remove later, it will actually make the corrosion deposit softer (for lac of a better word) then the alum-prep works better. That's if you have a few days to allow it to set.
 
Tom-D said:
Remember the 100 manual only started in 68. prior to that they had no manuals for the 100 series.
so read the front page of the 100 manual, and the purpose paragraph of the 43-13 1b.

For the rest of you, when you get your IA you get this guidance by your ASI./ PMI.

Yep, it never quits with some. gotta increase the post count. no matter if the post adds anything to the thread
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So what did mechanics do prior to 1968?

And what year is your 150?
 
Tom-D said:
Exactly, making it easier to remove later, it will actually make the corrosion deposit softer (for lac of a better word) then the alum-prep works better. That's if you have a few days to allow it to set.
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If you think so. WD-40 is, as you yourself noted, a light hydrocarbon which doesn't dissolve metal oxides (that is what corrosion is). You could do as well or better with water. The WD-40 is good for dissolving grease or oil and making that stuff easier to remove.
 
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Cap'n Jack said:
If you think so. WD-40 is, as you yourself noted, a light hydrocarbon which doesn't dissolve metal oxides (that is what corrosion is). You could do as well or better with water. The WD-40 is good for dissolving grease or oil and making that stuff easier to remove.
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True. It doesn't take much to soften aluminum oxide. It is very porous and crumbles easily.
 
JAWS said:
So what did mechanics do prior to 1968?

And what year is your 150?
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We used our heads and did what we were taught in A&P school.

It is a 76.
I haven't seen your picture of your manual yet?

For others, Cessna's 100 service manual is the day to day routine maintenance manual for the 100 line. in chapter 19 (structural Repair) where it gives the Criteria for repairing the structures of the sections of the aircraft. Para-17 describes the Criteria for Negligible damage. and para 18 describes the criteria for repairable damage.
As I have said, these are the minimum standards, If I wish to replace section of skin, that has negligible damage, or a corroded baggage compartment floor I can do that. just as was quoted in the attachment above.

If I wish to repair any portion of my 150 that meets the requirements of FAR 43-A as a major repair, then I must gain authority from my PMI on a 337 form, and record that in the Maintenance records of the aircraft in the manor required by FAR 43.
Block 8 describes what I want to do for the repair, and I can use the data contained in the Cessna structural manual as data to be approved by the FAA's ASI/ my PMI. When they approve it they sign block 4, then this data in block 8 becomes approved data for the repair.

and yes I have a subscription to up date my old paper version 100 manual.
 
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Tom-D said:
We used our heads and did what we were taught in A&P school.

It is a 76.
I haven't seen your picture of your manual yet?

<SNIP>
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He posted it in another thread some hours ago.
 
Cap'n Jack said:
If you think so. WD-40 is, as you yourself noted, a light hydrocarbon which doesn't dissolve metal oxides (that is what corrosion is). You could do as well or better with water. The WD-40 is good for dissolving grease or oil and making that stuff easier to remove.
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I have tried water, I have tried soap and water, I'v tried acid and water, In the past 50 years I've tried most any thing that some said might work.
And found that WD40 is about as good as it gets when you have the time.
When I first got the 150 home I applied 2 cans of WD40 to the interior, now when I clean any area, 99% of the corrosion products come off in the first application of Alu-prep. price Aluminum-prep, it is expensive, WD40 not so much. all of the pictures I've posted were treated this way, nearly all the minor surface corrosion comes clean the first time with out working the brushes on it.

Try it you might like it, it sure as hell doesn't hurt anything.
When you think about it, most of our aircraft the interiors are oily. and the corrosion deposits are saturated with it.
water not so effective on oily stuff.
 
You guys and gals mutter between your selves, I'll be off line for a while. Maybe in that time the mods will put an end to this bickering.
 
Tom-D said:
You guys and gals mutter between your selves, I'll be off line for a while. Maybe in that time the mods will put an end to this bickering.
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Hopefully, a long time. Months maybe. I don't think the mods need to do anything :)

Tom-D said:
I have tried water, I have tried soap and water, I'v tried acid and water, In the past 50 years I've tried most any thing that some said might work.
And found that WD40 is about as good as it gets when you have the time.
When I first got the 150 home I applied 2 cans of WD40 to the interior, now when I clean any area, 99% of the corrosion products come off in the first application of Alu-prep. price Aluminum-prep, it is expensive, WD40 not so much. all of the pictures I've posted were treated this way, nearly all the minor surface corrosion comes clean the first time with out working the brushes on it.

Try it you might like it, it sure as hell doesn't hurt anything.
When you think about it, most of our aircraft the interiors are oily. and the corrosion deposits are saturated with it.
water not so effective on oily stuff.
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Uh, yeah. That's what I said. WD-40 is good at dissolving grease. As a hydrocarbon, it does nothing to dissolve metal oxides.

Tom-D said:
I'm surprised you haven't blamed me for using it as stripper.
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It seems you haven't noticed I get in your threads when you post things clearly wrong ("zink", "ammonia is acidic", etc)
 
Tom-D said:
You guys and gals mutter between your selves, I'll be off line for a while. Maybe in that time the mods will put an end to this bickering.
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Ummm.....I see you've added quite a bit to the back and forth.:yes: :fingerwag:
 
I like a quote I heard Neil Degrass Tyson say. We're entitled to our own opinions but not to our own facts. Take it for what it's worth.
 
Cap'n Jack said:
Hopefully, a long time. Months maybe. I don't think the mods need to do anything :)
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That is what you would like.

Cap'n Jack said:
, yeah. That's what I said. WD-40 is good at dissolving grease. As a hydrocarbon, it does nothing to dissolve metal oxides.
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Who said it dissolved any thing, read what I actually said
 
Now let's see who will throw mud on my back as I leave.
 
GlennAB1 said:
True. It doesn't take much to soften aluminum oxide. It is very porous and crumbles easily.
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Then why would you use abrasives to grind it out? It is always better to leave as much protection as possible to continue to protect
 
Now we are going fishing. C-ya
 
Tom-D said:
Who said it dissolved any thing, read what I actually said
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Tom- Read what I wrote- I said it dissolved the grease and oil, and not the corrosion. As you mentioned that there was a lot of oil in the interior of the planes I feel you basically agreed with the mechanism of action, otherwise there was no point in your mentioning it. A hydrocarbon doesn't dissolve metal oxides.

Tom-D said:
That is what you would like.
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Let's face it- you really don't add much to the group, and contribute mostly acrimony.

Do you really think it is respectful to members and veterans of the Air Force when you continually call their service branch "air farce"? How would you like it if someone disrespected the Navy?
Tom-D said:
The Air Farce, couldn't get it off the run way for that
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Tom-D said:
<SNIP>
His A&P College, nor the AirFarce didn't show him and explain that he was not allowed to remove it.
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Tom-D said:
<SNIP>

4 year collage and the airfarce, says a lot of why you don't understand little aircraft.

I may have bought a POS, but it won't be when it leaves here.
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You also make up your own "facts" such as "jellied acetone", or this set from last night (the time stamps indicate that you were creating your own "facts") :
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upload_2017-4-16_12-48-26.png

You demand respect, but you refuse to give it- when you say ammonia is acidic, you'll tell a chemist they don't know what they are talking about, yet you get very upset when someone says you don't know what you are talking about.

And now, somehow, you are the victim. You don't seem to understand your own behavior causes people to react negatively towards you.

Tom- if you want respect, you need to start giving it. I know you don't like me, but that doesn't mean my advice is bad. Stop with the insults. Stop making stuff up.
 
Cap'n Jack said:
Tom- if you want respect, you need to start giving it. I know you don't like me, but that doesn't mean my advice is bad. Stop with the insults. Stop making stuff up.
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Well said. :)

I am sure he has a wealth of knowledge, but the manner in which he chooses to share it is not helpful or educating.

To everyone, Happy Easter! :)
 
Tom-D said:
Then why would you use abrasives to grind it out? It is always better to leave as much protection as possible to continue to protect
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Because if you don't, you leave stress risers, that are evident in your pictures. Why does 43.13 require polishing after using a stainless steel brush to remove corrosion.

Happy Easter! Happy fishing!
 
Stewartb said:
View attachment 52751

A few years ago I replaced my aft baggage floor. Had it powder coated to match the new panel and coordinated both with the custom zolatone and upholstery used after I pitched the standard interior panels.
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The Zolatone looks really nice. I wouldn't have thought about using it in an aircraft, but it was a pretty good idea.

A few years ago we painted several walls in our house with it. The paint looks good, it's durable, and easy to clean.
 
Cliff's note to this thread:

Q: Here are pictures of the aft baggage compartment floor. it is .025" 2024-T3 it is considered structure. How would you treat/repair it?
A: The corrosion is too deep, you must replace it.

Lesson learned: If something on your aircraft looks like this and is structural, it must be replaced.

Class dismissed
 
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