any weed-wacker heads that actually, like, y'know, WORK?

I've used many brands of weed whackers since I was about 15, the key I've found is you need to keep the string spinning fast, then it's like a knife through soft butter, remember string is for grass. Feed it as fast as it will effectively cut, no more. Typically I can cut through maybe up to 1/8 inch thick saplings, but it slows down the process. Thicker string does work better but like anything else, so does more power.

I refuse to pay the $20 to $30 per gallon for True fuel. Fresh gas works fine every time, just mix what you need to last no longer than about 2 months. For unmixed gas I dump it in the car at the end of each season and start fresh. Empty the trimmer of gas at the end of the season, then run it dry, never a problem.
 
I have a metal blade on my weed whacker; got tired of messing with string. Was tempted to try braided metal cable however in a traditional head.
 
1600vw said:
There are a lot of things in this world one buys that takes tricks and hints from others to keep working correctly. If I tried to list them all I would fill a couple pages. I am speaking of Stihl or any other trimmer head. All string trimmers are the same. To make them work takes skills most don't have as you see here.
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It is true that we all use hints and tricks that we learn and share from our own experience to enhance performance or extend useful life of various devices. That's different though than an industry insider saying "here's the way to make it work, even though we don't put it in the manual." And we're talking basic operation out of the box, not three or five years down the road.

Should someone really need special skills to make a trimmer work?

I did lube the string yesterday and so far so good, no jams, so thank you for that. The other trick is NA for me because mine is the kind that you feed a single string all the way through the head.
 
Single string trimmers just don't work well. Spend ~$250, get a nice Stihl commercial trimmer, you'll be set. Or buy one on Craigslist. I've had mine about 8 years, still cranks on the 2nd pull.
 
Another vote for Stihl... can't remember if it's an FS 75 or FS 90 but it's a monster. Every other weed eater I've ever owned and my dad's and my grandpa's all got given away or trash canned after the Stihl arrived.

It really is one of those "buy quality once, it only hurts once" purchases.

I about drove myself insane trying to whack weeds out here on the prairie with anything else. Regular cursing and yelling fits at inanimate objects and weeds ensued before the Stihl came to live in my garage.

I still break strings, but use the heaviest gauge it'll take, and I'm really cutting down small forests when I finally bust a side off. If I stay on top of it (RPM is increasing, strings are getting mangled) and bump it, 9 out of 10 times I'll catch it before one breaks. And I've gone through some horrid stuff with it, almost like saplings, the weeds were so woody and big.

Big thumbs up on the bigger Stihl weed whackers. Love the shoulder strap and the dual handles on mine, too. Get the strap the right length and it's just walk slowly forward and swing the thing from side to side with the weight all on your back. Not as comfortable as a commercial backpack unit, but as close as you're going to get in a rear motor mount.

Starts easily every time and will die if choke is kept at full or taken all the way to off before it has a chance to thermally warm up a minute or so, but the middle choke setting handles that perfectly. Once it's warmed up, it's just screams along without any complaints.
 
Another vote for the “handlebars” on the Stihl models. They add a few dollars, but I think they dramatically improve leverage, maneuverability and comfort.

Probably not just Stihls, but I’m always amazed at the amount of time I get on one tank of gas. It’s like the damn Energizer bunny!
 
denverpilot said:
Starts easily every time and will die if choke is kept at full or taken all the way to off before it has a chance to thermally warm up a minute or so, but the middle choke setting handles that perfectly. Once it's warmed up, it's just screams along without any complaints.
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We bought a second Stihl for our new property a few months ago. It has no primer bulb, but starts right away with full choke. At first I thought it was dying when I went to turn the choke off, but realized that even cold it was just settling into what seems to me a very low, but steady, idle. It may be because it’s new, but it seems noticeably smoother and quieter than my decade-old model.
 
FastEddieB said:
We bought a second Stihl for our new property a few months ago. It has no primer bulb, but starts right away with full choke. At first I thought it was dying when I went to turn the choke off, but realized that even cold it was just settling into what seems to me a very low, but steady, idle. It may be because it’s new, but it seems noticeably smoother and quieter than my decade-old model.
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Mine has a full on setting, a half on setting, and off for the choke. If I pull the throttle trigger it has a mechanical linkage to the choke that kicks it all the way off as soon as you give it gas.

Mine won’t run fully choked but it starts great there and does have a primer bulb. Interesting that is going away. But we are also at over 6000 MSL at the house and I don’t think squat has been done to adjust this thing leaner for altitude, unlike almost all of my other gas powered toys. They’ve all either been adjusted or have different jetting. This thing has always “just run” from day one. I just have to pop it to half choke as soon as it starts.

Works great really. Have almost no complaints. I haven’t figured out how the heck to change the head someday when it needs that. I have a head that has nylon cutting blades instead of line that I’d like to swap on to it, but haven’t quite figured out how to put it on. Works so well with the line, the blade thing hasn’t been needed. Might have wasted $30 there. It sits on a shelf in the garage.
 
Another recommendation for the Stihl. I went with a KT110 motor and the various attachments (the most fun one is a 'chainsaw on a stick'). For things like saplings I have a straight shaft head with a 4-edged blade. The string head for grass and weeds just works. I found that it is important to really wrap the string neatly around the drum. If you zig-zag it you end up with a knot.

Oh, and I have moved to the pre-mix fuel for chainsaw and weed-trimmer. I don't use all that much and it keeps the starting headaches at a minimum.
 
denverpilot said:
I haven’t figured out how the heck to change the head someday when it needs that. I have a head that has nylon cutting blades instead of line that I’d like to swap on to it, but haven’t quite figured out how to put it on. Works so well with the line, the blade thing hasn’t been needed. Might have wasted $30 there. It sits on a shelf in the garage.
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Very easy to do, and covered in the manual.

A blade is a wonderful thing for heavier brush, vines and saplings. Worth the 5 minutes or so to do the swap when it’s needed.
 
upstateny said:
Why doesn't someone make a 12 volt string trimmer you could plug into your riding mower and trim as you go? A coiled cord, a gunrack-like mount. Seems like a best seller to me.
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Dewalt makes a 20V cordless trimmer
 
FastEddieB said:
Very easy to do, and covered in the manual.

A blade is a wonderful thing for heavier brush, vines and saplings. Worth the 5 minutes or so to do the swap when it’s needed.
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Yeah, my head that is on the trimmer seems to be different than the one in the main trimmer manual and the manual that came with it. Haven't figured out how to get it off. I will take the time to figure it out eventually, but it works so well as is, I usually just grab it and get to work... ha.
 
A few hints...

1) There should be a small hole somewhere adjacent to the head. A small nail or equivalent stuck in there will lock the head.

2) The nut is reverse-threaded. i.e. left hand threads.

3) The blade may need some sort of collar, that should have come with the trimmer.
 
FastEddieB said:
A few hints...

1) There should be a small hole somewhere adjacent to the head. A small nail or equivalent stuck in there will lock the head.
Click to expand...

That's probably what I missed. Knew 2 and 3. Thanks. (It's probably packed full of dead grass! LOL!)
 
My Stihl cranks well, generally on the 2nd pull after pushing the bulb a few times.

I clip it to the strap, walk out in the yard, close the choke and lock the throttle in the Start position, which is enough RPM for what I need to cut, and I don't have to squeeze the throttle.
 
My Toro trimmer is at the end of it's life, but it has run for a dozen years with only two trips to the repair shop for a tune up, all in the last 3-4 years. I've never had an issue getting the string to release in it, and no lubricant is applied to the string. I spool it once at the beginning of the season and it lasts the whole year. Unless you're cutting small trees or digging into a chain link fence constantly, it shouldn't go through line just trimming around trees/fence lines.

While I've used Stihl trimmers/blowers on landscape crews, we never could keep them running consistently. However that was over 15 years ago, so their products could have improved. I'm going over to Echo next year for my trimmer. My backpack blower and chainsaw from Echo have been great, so I'll keep my light outdoor power equipment in the same brand.


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I run a small landcare business on the side with around 60 accounts and have used Stihl trimmers and blowers for more than 20 years. I started with them because at the time they were the only reliable brand. Everything else was junk. Now there are many others who are just as good (from what I hear) but it's too late - now I'm loyal to Stihl. Never, ever had a mechanical issue that wasn't my own fault.

Some cuties distracted me once and I absent-mindedly sat the blower between the truck and trailer. Realized as I heard the crunch. I used the rack to hold the trimmers for a couple of years until I figured out the hard way that all the vibration fatigues the aluminum shaft and will break right below the engine mount.

The only advice I will give is that they come with a metal mesh screen over the exhaust (EPA thing). The first thing I do is pull those out and toss them. Otherwise in a short period of time you lose power and it won't start. You're supposed to clean it and replace it - bah.

Back to the OP's issue. Stihl heads feed the line perfectly all the time if you're using quality line. The thickness of the line you use depends on what you're using it for. For regular homeowner use go with a thinner line, maybe .80 with a twist design. You'll get a cleaner cut (think sharp mower blade vs dull blade). If you're clearing brush then go with the .95 hexagon-shaped line (vs just round line).

When it's time to refill the head with fresh line make sure you keep it in a somewhat straight pattern. Don't twist it back and forth (from left to right to left to right) all over the place. Wind it like you would if you were putting electrical tape on something. Do this and I promise the line will feed perfectly with every bump of the head.
 
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