Wanapum Dam 65' crack.

And this type of uncontrolled cracking is caused by several things:

1) Hurried curing.

Yeah, I forgot about that possibility. If they didn't spray it with a membrane type cure, or keep it wet for a few days, then it might have dried/shrunk too fast. This is an issue particularly in low humidity climates (which i assume your's is) and/or if there is an extended period of wind (like a day or two) immediately following the pour.

This can also make the surface "alligator" crack and eventually start spalling. The alligator cracks develop because the surface dries and shrinks faster than the concrete immediately below the surface.

Very few if any commercial contractors would even consider not properly curing concrete...residential contractors however...well...nothing surprises me.
 
I kept it wet for 3 days ... and yeah, we're a little dry here :)
 
See? There IS such a thing as an 'emergency takeoff'!
 
2000 years of life in a concrete dome, and my damn new concrete driveway cracked in the first 6 months of life .... there's no justice.

Yup....

As a Class B rated general contractor who has poured 1000's of yards of concrete I can say with 100% confidence... The concrete today is nowhere near the same it was even 30 years ago... I have remodeled building here in VERY cold Jackson Hole and seen slabs that were poured back the 40's -50's 60's and were still crack free.... I can add onto a structure, or build a new one.... install a massive base, sub base, pour a 8-12" slab and all the new mud will crack in less then a year..... The new stuff in downright JUNK.....

And yeah,, it can pass the "slump" test and the PSI test that is required on larger projects...:(
 
Very few if any commercial contractors would even consider not properly curing concrete
:rofl:

Sorry Tim, but as an engineer and construction inspector: if I had a penny for every improper/cheap/outright stupid thing I've seen from even large and "reputable" contractors- I could buy and operate a CJ on a cash basis.

Curing concrete with a half-azzed "curing" compound where it alternates between non-existent and 2" thick; doing a 3-day wet cure on a 2ft thick slab; stripping forms early; reconstituting concrete; etc...
 
Yup....

As a Class B rated general contractor who has poured 1000's of yards of concrete I can say with 100% confidence... The concrete today is nowhere near the same it was even 30 years ago... I have remodeled building here in VERY cold Jackson Hole and seen slabs that were poured back the 40's -50's 60's and were still crack free.... I can add onto a structure, or build a new one.... install a massive base, sub base, pour a 8-12" slab and all the new mud will crack in less then a year..... The new stuff in downright JUNK.....

And yeah,, it can pass the "slump" test and the PSI test that is required on larger projects...:(

So, what you're telling us is that you can't do a quality concrete job...
 
Yup....

As a Class B rated general contractor who has poured 1000's of yards of concrete I can say with 100% confidence... The concrete today is nowhere near the same it was even 30 years ago... I have remodeled building here in VERY cold Jackson Hole and seen slabs that were poured back the 40's -50's 60's and were still crack free.... I can add onto a structure, or build a new one.... install a massive base, sub base, pour a 8-12" slab and all the new mud will crack in less then a year..... The new stuff in downright JUNK.....

And yeah,, it can pass the "slump" test and the PSI test that is required on larger projects...:(

Now tell us the fix for that.
 
Now tell us the fix for that.

Go back to the good formula... And quit adding all the BS fillers like Flyash and other cheaply bought fillers the batch plant can stuff in the mud to maximize their profit.... Geez.... We are paying over 150 bucks a yard for 6 bag mix with fibre out here....
 
First... I contract that out....

Second.... Let's get Henning to give his opinion of you....:yikes::eek::hairraise:......

First, are you responsible for your contractors?

Second, I have no problem with someone's opinion of me, good, bad, or indifferent. However I do question why you would bring that up as it has no bearing on your performance in any matter.
 
First, are you responsible for your contractors?

Second, I have no problem with someone's opinion of me, good, bad, or indifferent. However I do question why you would bring that up as it has no bearing on your performance in any matter.

My performance is just fine and I have EVERY customer to vouch for my high quality work........
 
What ingredient is it in ice melters that dissolves sidewalks and driveways? Or is it the concrete's fault? Can ice melter damage be satisfactorily repaired, or do you just have to learn to like the exposed-aggregate look?

OTOH, I am just east of Hanford, and downstream from Wanapum Dam, so it might not matter. :eek:
 
My performance is just fine and I have EVERY customer to vouch for my high quality work........

Rather prickly there Ben, been getting enough hot tub time?
 
What ingredient is it in ice melters that dissolves sidewalks and driveways?

Rock salt is mostly Calcium Chloride. This is also used as a cheap way to accelerate concrete set, but is absolutely horrible for concrete because it becomes free chlorides (which rusts the rebar and then spalls the concrete).

As for the exposed aggregate look- it could be carbonation or Alkali-Silica Reaction. Neither is an easy fix.
 
:rofl:

Sorry Tim, but as an engineer and construction inspector: if I had a penny for every improper/cheap/outright stupid thing I've seen from even large and "reputable" contractors- I could buy and operate a CJ on a cash basis.

Good point, I guess it depends on what part of the country you're in. I saw some "interesting" techniques back when I was inspecting also.

What ingredient is it in ice melters that dissolves sidewalks and driveways? Or is it the concrete's fault? Can ice melter damage be satisfactorily repaired...

Others addressed the ingredients but...

Ice melt should never be used on concrete until it's a year...preferably two...old. Or, as you experienced, it'll blow the top off of it.

Epoxy coatings are available to fix it and I'm sure there are many products out there that I'm not familiar with.
 
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