The problem with driving a car until the wheels fall off

[AdamZ]

Or until your very trustworthy mechanic says it will cost more to fix and get that flashing check engine light off and to just drive it till it won't drive any more is that then you actually have to go look for a new car well a used car.

I can't see how getting a new new car will every be worth it but ugh craig's list is such a PIA. Here are some of the choice postings:

-187K miles but they are all highway miles to and from school.

-One Woman owner ( Is that like plane listings that say doctor owned)

-115K miles but runs strong exept for low oil pressure light that comes on after 15 min of operation but Mechanic assures me its fine.

-Love this car hate to sell it but getting too old to drive it.

Ugh what a PIA I guess its better than going to a dealer.

 

[Jay Honeck]

I'm done buying from anyone but a dealer. Last fall we tried to buy our daughter's car from an individual in Houston. It seemed like a nice Honda Fit, at a fair price. We dickered a bit, and agreed on a price and a delivery date.

The next day we flew over to give him the money and drive it back. While we were in the air, he sold it out from under us, to someone who offered full price. By the time we landed in Houston, it was gone.

But he didn't bother to call us. He just never showed up. Scumbag, from the word go.

We bought her Toyota Matrix from a dealer. It's been a great little car.

You might pay a wee bit more at a dealer, but at least you've got something you can count on.

 

[AggieMike88]

To bad you're not closer... I occasionally get some decent cars that need a bit of attention.

An example is one I'm driving now... a 2004 Cadillac SRX. $1700 purchased, 62k when I got it, it needed a subframe, transfer case, and an radiator. All this was about $2000 P/L and I'm in a car that blue books for about twice that.

Check in with the local auto salvage yards and talk to the owner or sales manager for "rebuilders"

Also troll the larger dealerships and get their sales managers to call you when they get a trade in that they aren't wanting to put into the used car lot. If they can make a deal with you as a quick cash offer, they are going to be happier since they won't have to suffer the fees and hassle of running the car through the auctions.

 

[N801BH]

I'm done buying from anyone but a dealer. Last fall we tried to buy our daughter's car from an individual in Houston. It seemed like a nice Honda Fit, at a fair price. We dickered a bit, and agreed on a price and a delivery date.

The next day we flew over to give him the money and drive it back. While we were in the air, he sold it out from under us, to someone who offered full price. By the time we landed in Houston, it was gone.

But he didn't bother to call us. He just never showed up. Scumbag, from the word go.

We bought her Toyota Matrix from a dealer. It's been a great little car.

You might pay a wee bit more at a dealer, but at least you've got something you can count on.

Remind me..... How old is Becca?

 

[RJM62]

Or until your very trustworthy mechanic says it will cost more to fix and get that flashing check engine light off and to just drive it till it won't drive any more is that then you actually have to go look for a new car well a used car.

I can't see how getting a new new car will every be worth it but ugh craig's list is such a PIA. Here are some of the choice postings:

-187K miles but they are all highway miles to and from school.

-One Woman owner ( Is that like plane listings that say doctor owned)

-115K miles but runs strong exept for low oil pressure light that comes on after 15 min of operation but Mechanic assures me its fine.

-Love this car hate to sell it but getting too old to drive it.

Ugh what a PIA I guess its better than going to a dealer.

Personally, Craig's List has been my most successful venue for buying used cars. But I also take a slightly different tack. I keep an eye out for cars that are bargains because the problems that they happen to have are things that I feel comfortable fixing myself.

-Rich

 

[weilke]

Or until your very trustworthy mechanic says it will cost more to fix and get that flashing check engine light off and to just drive it till it won't drive any more is that then you actually have to go look for a new car well a used car.

I thought the check engine light indicates that the system checked and found the engine to be present.

On a beater, unless you are subject to emissions inspection, the check-engine light has no particular meaning.

 

[MSPAviator]

Or until your very trustworthy mechanic says it will cost more to fix and get that flashing check engine light off and to just drive it till it won't drive any more is that then you actually have to go look for a new car well a used car.

What's the make/model and what is the issue that is causing the flashing check engine light?

 

[Gary]

Or until your very trustworthy mechanic says it will cost more to fix and get that flashing check engine light off and to just drive it till it won't drive any more is that then you actually have to go look for a new car well a used car.

Which car is the check engine light on? Or, are you looking for a third car?

FWIW, Car Sense, while overpriced, IMHO, seems to actually sell decent cars.

Gary

 

[docmirror]

Personally, Craig's List has been my most successful venue for buying used cars. But I also take a slightly different tack. I keep an eye out for cars that are bargains because the problems that they happen to have are things that I feel comfortable fixing myself.

-Rich

Me too. I'm pretty handy. I got a 02 Focus with 5 speed and a few dents last year for $1400. Timing belt, some pounding, brakes, coolant and I was on the road safely for under $1800. It's been ~30MPG for my son for a while. Not for everyone.

I have an 02 VW Golf for sale now. Lots of new parts. asking $4100

 

[Skylane81E]

I thought the check engine light indicates that the system checked and found the engine to be present.

On a beater, unless you are subject to emissions inspection, the check-engine light has no particular meaning.

A flashing lights is a little different than a steady one

 

[AggieMike88]

Me too. I'm pretty handy. I got a 02 Focus with 5 speed and a few dents last year for $1400. Timing belt, some pounding, brakes, coolant and I was on the road safely for under $1800. It's been ~30MPG for my son for a while. Not for everyone.

SOHC or DOHC engine in that Focus?

 

[catmandu]

Me too. I'm pretty handy. I got a 02 Focus with 5 speed and a few dents last year for $1400. Timing belt, some pounding, brakes, coolant and I was on the road safely for under $1800. It's been ~30MPG for my son for a while. Not for everyone.

I have an 02 VW Golf for sale now. Lots of new parts. asking $4100

Me three. Personal niche right now for the 'parents for six months, kids when they get their license' is the Audi A4, 1.8T, Manual tranny, ten years old with about 100k. One way or another, you can get into one of these for $4500 if you watch Craigslist for a few months. Safe and sporty, good mpg, great online community for maintenance issues. There's an '01 and an '03 in the driveway.

 

[RJM62]

I thought the check engine light indicates that the system checked and found the engine to be present.

On a beater, unless you are subject to emissions inspection, the check-engine light has no particular meaning.

Well... some of the codes can be helpful in terms of improving fuel economy, and a few may have safety implications or help avoid bigger problems down the road.

Troubleshooting one particular recurrent code, for example, ultimately led to my finding that the seal around the fuel pump hanger was leaking gas vapors. That was definitely an unsafe situation, but it also was a very simple fix.

I think it pays to at least find out what the code is to determine its significance before dismissing it as unimportant.

-Rich

 

[us AAirways]

I thought the check engine light indicates that the system checked and found the engine to be present.

On a beater, unless you are subject to emissions inspection, the check-engine light has no particular meaning.

And the oil light on means the oil level is fine, at least that is what and ex girlfriend of mine thought

 

[AdamZ]

To bad you're not closer... I occasionally get some decent cars that need a bit of attention.

An example is one I'm driving now... a 2004 Cadillac SRX. $1700 purchased, 62k when I got it, it needed a subframe, transfer case, and an radiator. All this was about $2000 P/L and I'm in a car that blue books for about twice that.

Check in with the local auto salvage yards and talk to the owner or sales manager for "rebuilders"

Also troll the larger dealerships and get their sales managers to call you when they get a trade in that they aren't wanting to put into the used car lot. If they can make a deal with you as a quick cash offer, they are going to be happier since they won't have to suffer the fees and hassle of running the car through the auctions.

Thanks, I have a client that goes to the auctions for his business so he may help me out.

Personally, Craig's List has been my most successful venue for buying used cars. But I also take a slightly different tack. I keep an eye out for cars that are bargains because the problems that they happen to have are things that I feel comfortable fixing myself.

-Rich

I do feel comfortable fixing some stuff but as much as I'd like to just go drop 2K and get a beater to put a bunch of miles on, my professional life does require that from time to time I drive some folks around not much be enough that I can't have them sitting in a junker. I don't need a jag but can't be cruising around in a neon.

I thought the check engine light indicates that the system checked and found the engine to be present.

On a beater, unless you are subject to emissions inspection, the check-engine light has no particular meaning.

Solid is ok flashing not so ok,

What's the make/model and what is the issue that is causing the flashing check engine light?

2001 Mazda Millenia with just over 120K on it. I've known I need a new Catalytic Coverter now it shows a misfire but there is none which is kind of screwy. How ever there is also an EGR issue and the Distributor is signaling.

 

[ARFlyer]

I thought the check engine light indicates that the system checked and found the engine to be present.

On a beater, unless you are subject to emissions inspection, the check-engine light has no particular meaning.

It also means you owe Subaru $2200 for a new O2, Knock, Fuel/Air Sensor and new cat. Then get told they only sale the new Californian cat which is $800!!!!

 

[weilke]

A flashing lights is a little different than a steady one

Yeah, it flashes !

Somehow the car mechanics mafia has led us to believe that a illuminated 'check engine light' puts you at risk of the engine spontaneously seizing and falling off the motor mounts.

If fixing a CEL is a bank breaking expense, the car is a written off beater. What is the worst that can happen with a CEL, a burned out cat from too much fuel ? Oh wait, the CEL is illuminated because you already have a burned out cat (P141 ?), never mind.

 

[ARFlyer]

Yeah, it flashes !

Somehow the car mechanics mafia has led us to believe that a illuminated 'check engine light' puts you at risk of the engine spontaneously seizing and falling off the motor mounts.

If fixing a CEL is a bank breaking expense, the car is a written off beater. What is the worst that can happen with a CEL, a burned out cat from too much fuel ? Oh wait, the CEL is illuminated because you already have a burned out cat (P141 ?), never mind.

That, it starts to kill off sensors, and your MPG goes to c***.

 

[N747JB]

Thanks, I have a client that goes to the auctions for his business so he may help me out.

Be very wary of the auctions, the market is strong on used cars right now and most of the decent cars get retailed and the real problem children end up at the auction. Not saying you can't find a good car, just be careful you don't want a $3K car that's gonna need a $3K transmission.

 

[AdamZ]

Be very wary of the auctions, the market is strong on used cars right now and most of the decent cars get retailed and the real problem children end up at the auction. Not saying you can't find a good car, just be careful you don't want a $3K car that's gonna need a $3K transmission.

good info thanks.

 

[wsuffa]

Carmax. Not the cheapest, but better than a lot of options

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[DaleB]

Hmm. I have sold several used cars on CL when the kids were done with them, and more recently when my Mom finally (thank God) gave up driving. We haven't bought a used car from a private seller since our youngest was in high school (he's been out of college over a year now), and haven't bought a used car for ourselves since 1992, I think.

I have to say, I do not miss the used car buying experience even one little bit. We make really good deals on new vehicles and keep them long enough that, when we sell or trade, it really doesn't matter much what we paid for it. Of course I also like to either pay cash or pay them off early. Saving a few thousand in interest makes paying a little more for new less of a burden. It pays to think outside the box a little.

 

[MAKG1]

I've bought multiple cars off Craigslist. I look for a decent body and no MIL. Neglecting that is a sign lots of stuff is problematic -- it sucks to replace multiple HEGO sensors, cat and muffler 'cause everything is coated in thick carbon deposits. Especially when the original problem was a broken wire.

Every used car will have some problems, particularly at the low end. I bought the Jetta for $1300. A few months later, it started cutting out when hot, and wouldn't restart until the engine cooled. The giveaway was that it killed the tach, even while still coasting in gear. Turns out, it needed a $50 coil. Would a dealer have found that? I really doubt it.

The trick to keeping these on the road is to keep them in repair. Treat them like worthless POS's, and they will meet your expectations.

 

[Skylane81E]

Yeah, it flashes !

Somehow the car mechanics mafia has led us to believe that a illuminated 'check engine light' puts you at risk of the engine spontaneously seizing and falling off the motor mounts.

If fixing a CEL is a bank breaking expense, the car is a written off beater. What is the worst that can happen with a CEL, a burned out cat from too much fuel ? Oh wait, the CEL is illuminated because you already have a burned out cat (P141 ?), never mind.

Worst that can happen with a CEL, imminent total mechanical failure.

Steady light is typically just emissions, flashing is typically mechanical.

Best solution is to take the car to autozone or similar, they will pull codes for free. Then you can figgure out if a repair is needed, or worth it.

 

[flyingron]

A few years ago I was driving to work in my ten year old Suburban thinking that maybe I should replace it with something more fuel efficient. But I mused, the thing was paid for and I would be better off driving it until it died. A mile further down the road I got hit by a moving van. I was sort of hoping it would have been longer than that.

 

[alfadog]

Bought my last six+ cars on eBay. My present MR2 Spyder and GMC pick-up included. eBay is a great venue for knowledgeable buyers. Except for the MR2, bought all within a range (about 250 miles) that I could just walk away if not happy (long walk). One of my favorite purchases was an older turbo Audi 100 that really was owned by the little old lady. Low low miles and in great condition. She came into some money and traded it in on a new Mercedes. The Mercedes dealer did not want it on its lot and dumped it on eBay. Got it for $600, I think.

 

[ClimbnSink]

Gotta love auto parts stores and the impromptu repair yard/parking lot. Was 200 miles from home yesterday, truck started running rough, engine light. Borrowed the code reader from the auto parts store found out it was crankshaft position sensor, cracked the Haynes manual to get an idea of where it was, bought the part, 25 bucks, borrowed a wrench from the store and was back on the road in 20 minutes.

 

[MAKG1]

Worst that can happen with a CEL, imminent total mechanical failure.

Steady light is typically just emissions, flashing is typically mechanical.

Best solution is to take the car to autozone or similar, they will pull codes for free. Then you can figgure out if a repair is needed, or worth it.

"Just" emissions will often make the vehicle run poorly in limp mode, and can kill the engine as well if ignored. If you want it to be reliable, fix any problem you know about.

I really can't recommend Autozone, particularly for pre-1996 vehicles, as a code title or number is not enough to make a diagnosis, and the cost of good parts replaced will often exceed the cost of someone with a clue.

Greg, if I got a CAMP fault on my 2000 Saturn SL2, what part would you buy?

 

[weilke]

Worst that can happen with a CEL, imminent total mechanical failure.

Steady light is typically just emissions, flashing is typically mechanical.

Which OBD codes indicate impending mechanical failure ?

 

[alfadog]

Which OBD codes indicate impending mechanical failure ?

Low/no oil pressure?

 

[weilke]

Low/no oil pressure?

That would set up a low oil pressure warning as well, wouldn't it ?

 

[MAKG1]

Which OBD codes indicate impending mechanical failure ?

Failure to switch HEGO codes and misfire detection codes can be due to a blown fuel regulator dumping raw fuel into the nearest cylinders. This replaces the oil with fuel. Fuel is a poor lubricant. The only other indication you'll get without diagnosing is a rough idle and poor performance.

It's unlikely to go that far unless you also have a plugged PCV (no codes), just because it drives so bad. But, it's not impossible, so it's an example of the worst case.

An evap code can be because your tank is leaking. It isn't always a loose cap.

 

[weilke]

Failure to switch HEGO codes and misfire detection codes can be due to a blown fuel regulator dumping raw fuel into the nearest cylinders. This replaces the oil with fuel. Fuel is a poor lubricant. The only other indication you'll get without diagnosing is a rough idle and poor performance.

Again, it's not a well running engine then. That's no different from life before OBD codes, if it doesn't run right, you have to start looking for reasons. They are old cars, eventually they will die.

 

[N801BH]

.... They are old cars, eventually they will die.

Any machinery and people do that...

 

[Armageddon Aviator]

good info thanks.

I can get you a great price for this Maybach if you're interested...

A real bargain @ just under $ 1 million...

You get a brand new Cessna 172 as a bonus when you buy one...

 

[Maxmosbey]

Gotta love auto parts stores and the impromptu repair yard/parking lot. Was 200 miles from home yesterday, truck started running rough, engine light. Borrowed the code reader from the auto parts store found out it was crankshaft position sensor, cracked the Haynes manual to get an idea of where it was, bought the part, 25 bucks, borrowed a wrench from the store and was back on the road in 20 minutes.

I have a 1975 Jeep CJ5 that breaks down with regularity and I get it back running all the time in parts store parking lots. The thing is that I expect it to break down. It is old and decrepit. My Silverado and Solstice are supposed to be more reliable. I did drive the Solstice 1100 miles, mostly on back roads, to Santa Fe, NM a couple weeks ago. The Solstice has not spare tire, and while I have not had a flat tire in probably two decades, I joined AAA for the roadside assistance. You really don't want to be out in Western Kansas without roadside assistance.

 

[tonycondon]

I have a 1975 Jeep CJ5 that breaks down with regularity and I get it back running all the time in parts store parking lots. The thing is that I expect it to break down. It is old and decrepit. My Silverado and Solstice are supposed to be more reliable. I did drive the Solstice 1100 miles, mostly on back roads, to Santa Fe, NM a couple weeks ago. The Solstice has not spare tire, and while I have not had a flat tire in probably two decades, I joined AAA for the roadside assistance. You really don't want to be out in Western Kansas without roadside assistance.

before we went to Marfa, Leah decided to get a AAA membership. Back then Ol' Blue had under 240,000 miles on it but she was concerned by all the spare parts I had bought (that are still in the toolbox). I figured a AAA membership was nice but there are some areas out there where it would be a long wait for a tow truck.

 

[Ted]

Adam,

It depends on what you want to do. Chances are your Mazda can be fixed for under $1,000 worth of parts and then you can keep on going for a while longer. That will be the cheapest option. However, you also point out that you do need to drive people around now and then. I also know you sometimes have to dirve places (like Williamsport) for your work. Given that, there's probably something to considering a replacement vehicle. Do you care how many miles are on it?

I'm a fan of Lincoln Town Cars. Last forever, luxurious, and comfortable. They tend to be undervalued and they get decent gas mileage, plus cheap to fix. You could also consider an Infiniti or an Acura. Both last about near forever.

I buy almost all my vehicles on eBay, and have had good luck with it overall. Just be smart with what you buy and talk to the folks before you write a check. Don't be surprised when the first thing you need to do is change all the fluids and maybe a few minor things.

 

[Maxmosbey]

Adam,

It depends on what you want to do. Chances are your Mazda can be fixed for under $1,000 worth of parts and then you can keep on going for a while longer. That will be the cheapest option. However, you also point out that you do need to drive people around now and then. I also know you sometimes have to dirve places (like Williamsport) for your work. Given that, there's probably something to considering a replacement vehicle. Do you care how many miles are on it?

I'm a fan of Lincoln Town Cars. Last forever, luxurious, and comfortable. They tend to be undervalued and they get decent gas mileage, plus cheap to fix. You could also consider an Infiniti or an Acura. Both last about near forever.

I buy almost all my vehicles on eBay, and have had good luck with it overall. Just be smart with what you buy and talk to the folks before you write a check. Don't be surprised when the first thing you need to do is change all the fluids and maybe a few minor things.

Except for my hobby vehicles to which I am addicted and which are all vintage, I buy new. Usually I will wait until I can pick up a new previous year model, but I like to buy them with the sticker still in the window. There is a car salesman that I have bought cars from for years, and I generally deal with him. Even after all these years and all the cars that I have bought from him, we still have to play the game. It usually takes me three or four weeks of dickering for me to finally buy something. It is just the way I like to do it.

 

[Ghery]

The Solstice has not spare tire, and while I have not had a flat tire in probably two decades, I joined AAA for the roadside assistance. You really don't want to be out in Western Kansas without roadside assistance.

I had a flat tire last month. First one I can remember since I was in college. And this was on a rental car. Fortunately, it had a spare.