Synthetic Gear Oil Observations (N/A)

RJM62

Touchdown! Greaser!
Gone West
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Upstate New York
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Geek on the Hill
I finally got around to changing my manual transmission fluid in my Kia Soul, and I've noticed some interesting changes. I switched from the stock oil to Red Line MT-85 75W-85 Synthetic GL-4. I'm curious for input on my observations from the other gearheads on the forum.

First of all, the car already shifted smoothly in temperatures of around 0 F and higher. The main reason for the change was to reduce the stiffness in extreme cold weather, such as the -10 F days we had this past winter, when the stick was pretty stiff. Whether that objective was met will have to wait until winter.

Nonetheless, the stick does feel smoother now after having put about 75 miles on since the change. But the biggest difference is in the throw between the gears. It feels... dampened, for lack of a better word. It's kind of subjective, but it's real.

The biggest difference, however, has been the sound level. Previously the transaxle sounded like pretty much every other compact car manual transaxle I've ever driven, meaning that there was some synchro whine. I never considered it abnormal, nor did any mechanic or gearhead who drove the car. But now it's silent. I mean, we're talking silent. If I run over a leaf, I can hear it crunch. The tranny makes no noise.

In fact, I found myself shifting much later that I typically do because I'd been using the syncro whine as an aural shifting cue without really realizing it. Being kind of a hypermiler, on level ground I typically upshift at between 2,000 and 2,250 RPM. After the fluid swap, I found myself not shifting until as late as 3,000 RPM or more.

Another odd thing is that the car's upshift advice seems to be occuring a bit later, as well. I'm not quite sure about that, but prior to the change, when in ECO mode, the car would typically suggest upshifting at about 2,000 RPM on level ground. Now it seems closer to 2,500.

Another change that's definitely real is reduced deceleration due to engine braking. When you drive up and down the same mountains all the time, you get to know them pretty well and develop habits to maintain speed on the downhill sides.

On one downhill stretch that I drive very frequently, the speed limit drops from 55 at the top of the hill to 30 at the bottom. Previously, I could decelerate to about 35 by the time I got to the speed zone sign by shifting into fifth as I went over the crest, with neither gas nor brakes being needed from there until I reached the sign. Today I was at about 45 when I got to that sign.

The second hill is much longer but has a shallower incline, and a speed limit of 45 due to the many curves in the road. (45 really is about as fast as you'd want to drive on this stretch of road, by the way. It's pretty tortuous, and my county's not big on guardrails.) Previously I could take that hill at 45 by shifting into fifth at the top and applying a bit of gas here and there on the way down, but no brakes. Today I had to keep applying brakes to keep the speed under 50 and didn't have to give her gas at all.

I've noticed these kinds of changes in other cars when I swapped dino with synthetic, but never to the extent I'm noticing in this car. Some of it could be in my head, but the absence of synchro noise and the decreased deceleration due to engine braking most definitely are not.

I'm pretty glad I made the change, although winter will be the real test. I can't help but think that the elimination of any noise at all means better lubrication and longer gear and synchro life. But the other changes are just much more pronounced than I expected. Is this Red Line some sort of super oil? I'd frankly never heard of it before and only bought it because the folks on the Kia and Hyundai forums swear that it is THE oil for the companies' manual transaxles. Based on my impressions so far, I suspect that they're right.

Comments welcome. Thanks.

Rich
 
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Interesting. I never changed the gear oil on my old Corolla. Although I did research the process for doing so. Considering I sold it with about 230,000 miles and a grinding noise coming from the transmission, I probably should have changed it a time or two. Now that I have another manual transmission Corolla, I will endeavor to do this.

Question: is "synchro wine" the higher pitched noise I hear when accelerating through the gears? Or is it the whine I hear at constant speed in 5th gear around 40 miles per hour? Or is it both?
 
Interesting. I never changed the gear oil on my old Corolla. Although I did research the process for doing so. Considering I sold it with about 230,000 miles and a grinding noise coming from the transmission, I probably should have changed it a time or two. Now that I have another manual transmission Corolla, I will endeavor to do this.

Question: is "synchro wine" the higher pitched noise I hear when accelerating through the gears? Or is it the whine I hear at constant speed in 5th gear around 40 miles per hour? Or is it both?

The former is "synchro whine." The latter is probably "gear whine." It's hard to tell for sure over a forum, though. It could be some other noise.

Rich
 
What the hell is synchro whine?

I've heard gear whine, especially from the input and maybe final drive (for a transaxle), and bearing whine from POS ball bearing transmissions or incorrectly set up cones. Virtually every reverse gear whines because they must be straight cut.

But synchronizers are soft parts and won't whine. They'll just wear until the transmission gets hard to shift into one gear.

One generally diagnoses transmission noises by what gears the noise occurs in, and whether it occurs while powering, coasting, etc.

And it's REAL common for people to blame clutch noises on the transmission. Especially release bearings. If you get the noise stopped and in gear with the clutch down, it cannot possibly come from inside the transmission.

A high pitched whine that depends only on road speed is likely a final drive gear.

I sure hope that's a six speed you're running in 5th at 40 MPH, 'cause that's way way way too slow for an overdrive with "normal" size tires and differential gearing.
 
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Don't want to derail Rich's thread. I might hear it at 50, dunno. 5 speed.
 
What the hell is synchro whine?

I've heard gear whine, especially from the input and maybe final drive (for a transaxle), and bearing whine from POS ball bearing transmissions or incorrectly set up cones. Virtually every reverse gear whines because they must be straight cut.

But synchronizers are soft parts and won't whine. They'll just wear until the transmission gets hard to shift into one gear.

One generally diagnoses transmission noises by what gears the noise occurs in, and whether it occurs while powering, coasting, etc.

And it's REAL common for people to blame clutch noises on the transmission. Especially release bearings. If you get the noise stopped and in gear with the clutch down, it cannot possibly come from inside the transmission.

A high pitched whine that depends only on road speed is likely a final drive gear.

I sure hope that's a six speed you're running in 5th at 40 MPH, 'cause that's way way way too slow for an overdrive with "normal" size tires and differential gearing.

Yep, it's a six-speed.

Rich
 
I haven't tried it myself, but I know there was a lot of talk on some of the Mustang enthusiast boards about changing the factory fill oil in the transmission for a better shift.

Probably is something to it, my understanding of the science of how oil flows isn't sufficient to grasp it fully though.
 
I had some 'rattle' when in neutral with the clutch out on my 03 Jeep Wrangler. I switched over to Royal Purple SyncroMesh and it definitely helped reduce the neutral rattle sound. Didn't notice a lot of change in the shift smoothness, but it wasn't bad to begin with.
 
The up/downshift assistance has not changed at all by your gearbox oil change.
Redline does make very good oils, but some of your observations are placebo.
 
Wow, your transmissions can't last long if you're spinning up the engine with the synchronizers. Even worse if you're proposing accelerating the car that way.

You cannot "spool up" a manual transmission. The input is connected to the engine and the output to a drive axle or two.

What you can do is gradually adjust throttle with light stick pressure until you get just the right RPM and it drops in. It's not recommended, as screwing up can be expensive, but it's sometimes used to get home when the clutch release fails.

Almost every part of the transmission is made of metal. Some are hard (shafts and gears) and some are soft.
 
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We changed the fluid in the Dodge manual tranny to a high quality synthetic and experienced most of the benefits you've mentioned. It's a transmission fairly well known for having certain problems, when stock, and weighs over 300 lbs to get it out of the truck (NV5600 for those who know transmissions), and is fairly expensive to overhaul correctly (needs modifications for better ways for the fluid to "splash" back to the back of the gear assembly), so increasing its longevity is a big deal, money-wise.

So far, so good. The synchros are a little worn on the 3/6 gear which is a standard symptom of the lack of fluid reaching them in the design.

(One common trick is to remove the shift tower and overfill the transmission from above, but it's not a permanent or perfect fix.)

Shifts to 3 without properly matched revs are a little tough. That synchro is worn.

In general though, shifting is smoother and easier and the 1/2 shift is so slick, you wonder if you missed and ended up in neutral instead.

The Dodge stuff is good. And I was skeptical about the additional cost of the stuff the mechanic wanted to use. But the subtle changes in shift feel really show how much better a quality synthetic is in a manual. Especially a manual this big.
 
You cannot "spool up" a manual transmission. The input is connected to the engine and the output to a drive axle or two.
Gee on my manual transmission cars, it's attached to the clutch. Most of us do use the clutch rather than jamming the transmission into the next gear hoping we've managed to match the engine speed to the wheel speed.

If you've driven a manual transmission bigger than a sports car, you've probably found that it's necessary to "spool down" on the upshifts, and "spool down" on the down shifts (double clutching) even to move the shifter with the clutch depressed.
 
Gee on my manual transmission cars, it's attached to the clutch. Most of us do use the clutch rather than jamming the transmission into the next gear hoping we've managed to match the engine speed to the wheel speed.

If you've driven a manual transmission bigger than a sports car, you've probably found that it's necessary to "spool down" on the upshifts, and "spool down" on the down shifts (double clutching) even to move the shifter with the clutch depressed.

Did you read the post I was responding to? He said to leave the clutch engaged and engine at idle, and force it in. he wasn't talking about double clutching.
 
Did you read the post I was responding to? He said to leave the clutch engaged and engine at idle, and force it in. he wasn't talking about double clutching.

Did you read my post? Nowhere did I say "force" or even to engage the gear. Anywho, it appears we have found our resident transmission expert, and that's me finished. Sorry for inciting an off topic discussion.

Rich, thanks for the write up and your testimony to Red Line for you car.
 
On one downhill stretch that I drive very frequently, the speed limit drops from 55 at the top of the hill to 30 at the bottom.

Off topic, but I wonder how much fuel(and brakes, and transmissions) the country would save if we raised speed limits at the bottom of hills. I know the children, the revenue, the police coffers that need speeding ticket money to protect the children. Downhill speeding is green.:wink2:
 
I never said he was double clutching, but I see no indication that he wasn't using the clutch (his question about synchros makes no sense if he isn't using the clutch). My comments on double clutching were to show the necessity to "spin" the transmission and double clutching does that without syncros.
 
Did you read my post? Nowhere did I say "force" or even to engage the gear. Anywho, it appears we have found our resident transmission expert, and that's me finished. Sorry for inciting an off topic discussion.

Rich, thanks for the write up and your testimony to Red Line for you car.

Thanks, but it's not really off-topic as far as I'm concerned. Transmissions are a weak spot in my knowledge because I originally was trained to fix airplanes, not cars; so anything about transmissions is on-topic as far as I'm concerned. I appreciate all the input even if the people who post it don't agree with each other.

Rich
 
Off topic, but I wonder how much fuel(and brakes, and transmissions) the country would save if we raised speed limits at the bottom of hills. I know the children, the revenue, the police coffers that need speeding ticket money to protect the children. Downhill speeding is green.:wink2:

Downhill speeding is a great hypermiling technique. It's one of the reasons I consistently get about 33 percent better gas mileage than the EPA numbers for my car. EPA combined is 27 MPG. I regularly get 36 - 38.

But downhill speeding is problematic when there's a village or hamlet at the bottom of the hill. (A "hamlet," in New York, is basically a village that lacks a charter, and therefore is merely a hamlet.)

Rich
 
Ah yes and the NY hamlet's get to keep more ticket revenue then incorporated towns iirc.
 
Ah yes and the NY hamlet's get to keep more ticket revenue then incorporated towns iirc.

I don't think so. Hamlets actually are not defined by New York State law and have no governments. Villages are incorporated and have courts (of sorts -- the judge's day job may be as a ditch digger) and sometimes police departments, so they get to keep some of the revenue from tickets.

The term "hamlet" is usually applied to former villages that have abolished their governments and resigned their charters; or to places that have post offices that us a certain place name, but no charters or governments. In either case, a hamlet has no legal status, no government, and collects no taxes. It's just a place called by a certain name.

Rich
 
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