Spot light for grill question:

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JOhnH

Touchdown! Greaser!
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I need to replace an old outside floodlight under my eave.

My gas grill is 16 feet away and I'd like the spotlight to illuminate the grill surface.
What kind of spotlight, and what intensity (wattage? Lumens? other?) should I be looking for?

What other information might be needed to answer this question?
 
I’m not an expert on lighting.

but why wouldn’t a 60w flood work?

You don’t need video quality lighting, right?

you don’t care about illuminating other areas, right? I mean it doesn’t need to illuminate just the grill, right?
 
Bob Noel said:
You don’t need video quality lighting, right?
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Anything worth doing is worth overdoing, right?
Sperry.jpg
 
Bob Noel said:
I’m not an expert on lighting.

but why wouldn’t a 60w flood work?

You don’t need video quality lighting, right?

you don’t care about illuminating other areas, right? I mean it doesn’t need to illuminate just the grill, right?
Click to expand...
I guess it could be a flood light, but back when the existing flood light worked, it didn't seem to put out enough light at 20 feet for my old eyes to see the food well enough to tell if it was cooking properly. And it was 100watts.

Also, the old flood was either incandescent or haolgen (or something else besides LED). A new light will probably be LED and in my experience, LED "equivalents" aren't really equivalent.
 
JOhnH said:
I need to replace an old outside floodlight under my eave.

My gas grill is 16 feet away and I'd like the spotlight to illuminate the grill surface.
What kind of spotlight, and what intensity (wattage? Lumens? other?) should I be looking for?

What other information might be needed to answer this question?
Click to expand...
Something like this works well for me:

E061AA01-TIKKA_LowRes.jpeg
 
I've done outside work at night by floodlight before. Probably most folks on here have? The thing I remember being annoying was that the light is very direct, the shadows are harsh, and if they're behind you, you create shadows over what you're working on, and if they're in front of you they make glare in your eyes. Diffused light can be tricky to do outside. I think ideal would be multiple lights coming from different directions. I'd probably try to do it 12v, so most of the code things would drop out
 
I put one of these in, from HD, and like it a lot. Selectable color temperature and available in 1300, 2000, and 2200 lumens (the one from the HD app is 2200, which is what I have, I think). I taped over the photo sensor.

8A5C58FC-B03A-41C9-BAF9-B98690804B4C.jpeg 85A09762-153A-428B-B894-D7B17DA938D9.jpeg
 
JOhnH said:
That's what I use now and it DOES work well, but since I am going to replace a bad fixture anyway, I want to replace it with something useful.
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I like the idea of LED floodlights. Motion detectors are available but I wonder how many false alarms you get with those.
 
I have an RAB-brand motion floodlight I bought 7 or 8 years ago. Once the regular PAR bulbs burned out (less than 2 years) I replaced them with LED PAR bulbs. Haven't touch it in 5+ years and still works great. I think I'd avoid an LED-only solution just because LEDs go bad and then you have to replace the whole fixture instead of just a bulb. My .02.

Matthew said:
I like the idea of LED floodlights. Motion detectors are available but I wonder how many false alarms you get with those.
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My RAB unit works VERY well in terms of not having false alarms. It can also me moved into manual mode easily by flipping the light switch on/off and then back on in quick succession if you want it to stay on for a while. I've always had the motion sensors go bad after a few years on the cheaper brands, but the RAB is still going strong after close to a decade.

https://www.rablighting.com/product/STL360HB
 
Typically with LEDs lack of draw there’s no need for staying with equivalent- up those watts equivalents as the draw will be null.

but I’m w the rest on one light makes things shadow-ey at best…but I’d buy the biggest led I cud and light it up like noon!

my hangar had 2-250w bulbs incadecent- dim bad when I got it. I have a couple thousand watt equivalents now that draw less than those did…. Take advantage of the efficiency and up the power
 
Matthew said:
I like the idea of LED floodlights. Motion detectors are available but I wonder how many false alarms you get with those.
Click to expand...
My wife won't allow me to put in motion detector lights. They scare the wildlife.
 
The floods with motion sometimes have a test setting that negates the motion activator.
So check if your hearts set on that 9000w super flood with motion.
It may be simple to bypass
 
Years ago the neighbor cattycorner to the rear of the house installed a motion sensor floodlight in his side yard. His dog kept setting it off. All night long. I shined directly in to the bedroom. Even with the shutters closed, it was like having a close encounter with the third kind.

We had conversated on that. He relented.
 
"It may be simple to bypass"

a piece of tape? (just don't use clear tape)
 
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