router help AGAIN

[markb5900]

On one of my desktops I have a Linksys network adapter (wireless card).
When I attempt to use the Linksys software, it will not find the IP address for my 2wire router.
When I disable that software and use windows, it connects fine, but I can't get more than 11Mbps connection no matter what I do. (sitting right next to it).
I installed a Linksys card on a different computer over the holidays, had the exact same thing happen, same brand of router. Rebooted and all was well.
But didn't work on this one.
My PC is running XP and is up to date.
I explored the Linksys site looking for answers but didn't find anything, may have just missed it also there is so much "stuff" on there to read.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Mark B

 

[TknoFlyer]

Any ideas?

Go wired.

Seriously, it's headaches like this (and mysterious dropping of 5-bar signals to 1Mbps and dropping of connection and...) that led me to hard-wiring every room in the upstairs of my house (where the PCs are and the laptops spend most of their time stationary). One weekend, ~$1K and 1Gbps - with no dropped connections. The relatively few times I need mobility in the house, the wireless is still there and mostly stable.

Wireless networking is still a bit of an art form. Many things can affect the range and quality of a radio signal and some of those things are transient and unpredictable.

In your case, we need a bit more data. For example, what model router? What model wireless card? If either is 802.11b, you'll only get 11Mbps or less. Both have to be 802.11g (or n) to get speeds faster than that.

If both devices are "g/n", you'll need to check the router to ensure it's not set to work in "B-only" mode. More info on the 2wire support page.

You mentioned side-by-side configuration so antenna position and orientation isn't likely a problem, but this is a consideration for normal operation.

 

[EdFred]

You 11 limit is because your card or your router is in B only mode. And if you have the router right next to the desktop, just plug the thing in and get your 100 or 1G and get rid of the headache.

 

[markb5900]

Thanks for the help.
The only reason it was next to the router was my "testing". My office is actually at the other end of the house.
Think I got it solved again.

Mark B

 

[Neal Howard]

If you've got a "b/g" or a "b/g/n" access point/router with multiple "clients" associated to it concurrently, and if one of the client machines connects to it at "b" speed or for some reason falls back to "b" speed (11Mbps), it'll generally throw the entire ap/router into b-only mode. In essence, the router slows itself down to the least common denominator wireless speed mode.

 

[mikea]

If you've got a "b/g" or a "b/g/n" access point/router with multiple "clients" associated to it concurrently, and if one of the client machines connects to it at "b" speed or for some reason falls back to "b" speed (11Mbps), it'll generally throw the entire ap/router into b-only mode. In essence, the router slows itself down to the least common denominator wireless speed mode.

That, or the access point has to send some packets twice.

 

[RJM62]

I am reminded of why I hate wireless. Before it existed, people simply paid me to run wires where they wanted connectivity. Wired connections are usually trouble-free, and probably are less costly over time than constantly replacing crappy wireless routers / APs and paying for someone to secure them and troubleshoot the flaky connections, in the case of technologically challenged clients.

My ultimate advice in cases with persistent wireless connectivity problems is still to run Ethernet, but most people resist it. I always ran two cables to each location, just in case one went dark some day. The cost of the cable itself was trivial compared to the cost of labor to snake it, so I just taped two together and snaked them -- sometimes along with a Cat-3 and/or an RG59 or RG6 if they also wanted phone and/or cable TV service in the room.

But those jobs are few and far between these days. In fact, I didn't even bother renewing my licenses or insurance for interior low-power com/data wiring. They cost most than I was making from them. On those rare occasions when someone wants interior cabling done, I just sub it out. Other than the occasional external antenna cable for a stationary EVDO installation, I seldom run cables anymore.

When running Ethernet simply is not feasible, HomePlug (a/k/a Powerline Networking, or Ethernet over Power Line) sometimes works well. I generally find it either works great or else doesn't work at all, though; so always make sure you can return the gear if you decide to try it. I've had houses where it worked great in one outlet, but not at all in an outlet eight feet away and on the same circuit. Go figger.

-Rich

 

[mikea]

I am reminded of why I hate wireless. Before it existed, people simply paid me to run wires where they wanted connectivity. Wired connections are usually trouble-free, and probably are less costly over time than constantly replacing crappy wireless routers / APs and paying for someone to secure them and troubleshoot the flaky connections, in the case of technologically challenged clients.

My ultimate advice in cases with persistent wireless connectivity problems is still to run Ethernet, but most people resist it. I always ran two cables to each location, just in case one went dark some day. The cost of the cable itself was trivial compared to the cost of labor to snake it, so I just taped two together and snaked them -- sometimes along with a Cat-3 and/or an RG59 or RG6 if they also wanted phone and/or cable TV service in the room.
....

My house will have a whole messa Cat-6 thankyouverymuch. I bought various colored cables since I didn't want to deal with terminating them.

At some point I thought I'd have AT&T UVerse which has a separate video LAN.

 

[Neal Howard]

My house will have a whole messa Cat-6 thankyouverymuch.

CAT6 is a PITA to terminate if you also use CAT6 spec patch panels, connectors, and/or and RJ-45 ends. CAT5e will still operate just fine at full gigabit speeds at 325 feet long runs, costs less money to purchase cable and connectors, and doesn't have the hassle of that "+" shaped plastic insulator running down the middle of the cable.

 

[gprellwitz]

CAT6 is a PITA to terminate if you also use CAT6 spec patch panels, connectors, and/or and RJ-45 ends. CAT5e will still operate just fine at full gigabit speeds at 325 feet long runs, costs less money to purchase cable and connectors, and doesn't have the hassle of that "+" shaped plastic insulator running down the middle of the cable.

When we had the house built 10 years ago, we knew we wanted it wired for networking. Our question at the time was fiber or CAT5. We opted for CAT5, but the builder messed up and put in CAT3. Luckily, I looked at the actual wire and caught it, so was able to have them correct it. That said, we still have wireless hooked up for the laptops. It's hard to beat the convenience of taking a computer to whichever room you happen to be in, even if the connection is a little slower.

 

[jesse]

CAT6 is a PITA to terminate if you also use CAT6 spec patch panels, connectors, and/or and RJ-45 ends.

It sucks at first--but you get used to it--and it isn't so bad anymore.

I've never understood why people are so afraid of doing their own cable. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to measure cable lengths, order that cable, get it and find that it isn't the right length. It is a hell of lot easier to just run a cable and throw an end on it. Perfect length every time and way more efficient.

That said, I agree, Cat5e is fine.

 

[mikea]

CAT6 is a PITA to terminate if you also use CAT6 spec patch panels, connectors, and/or and RJ-45 ends. CAT5e will still operate just fine at full gigabit speeds at 325 feet long runs, costs less money to purchase cable and connectors, and doesn't have the hassle of that "+" shaped plastic insulator running down the middle of the cable.

Then it's even more lucky that I bought patch cables. My plan is to just leave them terminated coming out the wall using these "grommet" wall plates.

My main fear with terminating the cables myself, other than not being sure I still had an RJ plug crimp tool, was having to sort the wires in my old age.

I think I have some CAT-5 Leviton wall jacks, too.

 

[Ghery]

When running Ethernet simply is not feasible, HomePlug (a/k/a Powerline Networking, or Ethernet over Power Line) sometimes works well. I generally find it either works great or else doesn't work at all, though; so always make sure you can return the gear if you decide to try it. I've had houses where it worked great in one outlet, but not at all in an outlet eight feet away and on the same circuit. Go figger.

-Rich

The one experiment I tried at home with a HomePlug 1.0 Ethernet extender had a similar result. The initial purpose of the experiment was to see what its impact was on my amateur radio station (and HF frequencies outside the ham bands). After doing that, I took the laptop with one of the HomePlug boxes around the house. As you noted, it was a binary function. It worked well, or it didn't work at all. Nothing in between. Best I can figure (I'd have to ring out the wiring to confirm) is that when it worked the outlets were on the same phase of the incoming power line, and then it didn't they were on opposite phases.

 

[mikea]

The one experiment I tried at home with a HomePlug 1.0 Ethernet extender had a similar result. The initial purpose of the experiment was to see what its impact was on my amateur radio station (and HF frequencies outside the ham bands). After doing that, I took the laptop with one of the HomePlug boxes around the house. As you noted, it was a binary function. It worked well, or it didn't work at all. Nothing in between. Best I can figure (I'd have to ring out the wiring to confirm) is that when it worked the outlets were on the same phase of the incoming power line, and then it didn't they were on opposite phases.

Yeppir. That's a problem with X10 devices, too. You can get couplers for the phases, but I dunno if these woudl work for Powerline.

http://jeffvolp.home.att.net/xtb_files.htm

 

[john smith]

I've never understood why people are so afraid of doing their own cable. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to measure cable lengths, order that cable, get it and find that it isn't the right length. It is a hell of lot easier to just run a cable and throw an end on it. Perfect length every time and way more efficient.

Following a house fire in 1996, I took advantage of the bare walls to wire my house with RG-?? coaxial cable for television and CAT-5 for networking. I called my cable company and they provided the coax and connectors (free). I purchased the CAT-5 and connectors from a local electric supply house.

It took me two days to wire home-runs from the basement to all the rooms (except bathrooms) on the first and second floors. My only regret is that I did not install all the wiring in conduit. The cost would have been minimal for the convenience of future modification.