Replacing my old vehicle with an old vehicle

455 Bravo Uniform

455 Bravo Uniform

Final Approach
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Am I crazy?

My 2001 Tahoe, 317k miles, coolant in the oil. Had I known it was going to survive this long I would have taken steps to preserve the exterior from rust. Then I could just rebuild or drop in a replacement engine and be on my way.

Found an exact match 2001 Tahoe in Arizona, same color, everything, garage kept, 1 owner who is elderly. 110k miles. I paid way too much when shipping is included. I know these vehicles and can work on them. I can’t stomach paying for something new or newer that I keep hearing problems about (it might be the echo chamber that is my phone search engine).

One of my in-laws used to buy old vehicles for daily drivers. I first met him in 1990. He was driving a 58 Chevy with 3 of the tree daily. Newest vehicle I ever saw him drive was a 1997 Suburban. I thought he was silly at the time.

I guess I’m looking for what others think, because I’m not sure my friends and family will tell me if I’m crazy.
 
2001 is close to the end of how old one can be and be kept on the road a long time. (Clarifying, meaning, you can't get something much newer than 2001 and expect it to last as the computer systems got more and more complicated and bespoke). As you know, that generation of Tahoe was one of the best, most reliable cars GM made in their entire history, and if I was going to bet on one for the next 20 years, that's not a bad bet! You still get airbags, incredible comfort and reliability, while having something easy to maintain.

Honestly, it's one of the best cars out there. Just keep up on MX and put 150k more on that one.
 
I say go for it if the price is right... like you said, it is a known quantity..

My father use to buy a winter car every year in October and then sell it April. The last one he got was a VW Rabbit, but he held onto that thing for a few years so we would have something to dive when we visited..

He also owned a 1962 MBZ that he had until 1993... when asked how the car lasted so long he would lament that he neve let any of his teenage children drive it.. not his, but the exact thing.

iu
 
Yeah im looking for a just-right 94-96 short bed f-150 myself. The old ones have abs airbags and good crash survivability - no need to spend 43k for a base model new truck
 
Sounds like a good deal to me.
I used to change cars (far too) often. But now we drive a 2016 Corolla (our last “new” car), a 2014 Wrangler and a 2008 Miata (my toy) - and I fly a 1946 airplane.
 
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For various reasons we ended up with two relatively new vehicles in the driveway, and I don’t care for either one. Later this year I’m going to be reducing my time at work, and I’ll start looking for an older replacement for my car that I can maintain myself. I doubt that I’ll talk my wife into replacing hers, but I can live with that.
 
I did the same about a year ago. Replaced a 2015 Ford Super Duty with a 2002 from Arizona after an injector failed and trashed the motor. Despite the 2002 having 170k miles on it, it is without a doubt the cleanest, most rust free truck I’ve ever owned.

One word of warning however. Desert vehicles are great when it comes to a lack of rust but they won’t be that way for long in other climates without some preventive work. The doors and sills of the truck I bought were packed with desert dirt, which is an invitation for rust to start quickly when salt and moisture are introduced. There are also other desert related quirks that you’ll likely get to deal with but I’d take those all day long over the rotted out garbage that gets sold for a premium price in the Midwest.

I overpaid for the truck I bought. It was worth it to me.

Edit: It is worth noting where in AZ the vehicle came from during your search, as climates vary. There are places there that do use corrosive chemicals on the road as well.
 
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Phoenix.

I’m going to have this one sprayed yearly in the fall or do it myself.

Sounds like I’m not alone, good to hear!
 
After I replaced the rockers on my truck I sprayed Fluid Film into them, the frame, and every body cavity I could find. Here's hoping it stands the test of time.
 
455 Bravo Uniform said:
Phoenix.

I’m going to have this one sprayed yearly in the fall or do it myself.

Sounds like I’m not alone, good to hear!
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I've been spraying my cars undercarriages with fluid film for a number of years now. After a while you'll get enough of it built up that you could probably skip a year between applications but it offers the best chance of survival for a vehicle that doesn't get parked in the winter if you live in the rust belt.
 
I drive a 99 F150 that I bought for $3,000 sight unseen via online auction from the City of Savannah GA cemetery department. It had 60K miles when I bought it 12 years ago. Now it has 180K. I bought it to tow my boat, but it gradually became my daily driver.

I take a lot of pride in that. But if we're being honest, it is also clear evidence that I am becoming a stubborn, grumpy old man. It has left me stuck several times, I have to jiggle the key violently to turn it, and the air conditioning died 2 years ago. I live in central Florida, so I sweat and smell bad when I drive.

I have a 7 figure income, so it's not like I can't afford to replace it.

It finally dawned on me that I am a caricature. I'm going out next week to buy a Jeep. But not a new one, those are too pricey. Maybe 5 years old.
 
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I am the wrong person to get to tell you you are crazy. I just drove my 2001 Corolla with 210,000 miles on it home from work today. It replaced my 89 jeep with 270,000 miles on it. I am currently hoping to get it to 300,000 before I move to something else. The Tahoe you just bought sounds exactly like the kind of vehicle I would buy other than it I like more efficient on that will just do what I need (tow my sailplane trailer).

Brian
 
mondtster said:
I've been spraying my cars undercarriages with fluid film for a number of years now. After a while you'll get enough of it built up that you could probably skip a year between applications but it offers the best chance of survival for a vehicle that doesn't get parked in the winter if you live in the rust belt.
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The Bobcat dealer dad rents to soaks their snow lease machines with fluid film before being shipped out. Can't get over that smell.
 
I like to buy a fairly new vehicle (a year old) and drive it until it's done. As I age I find that doing all my own repairs isn't the joyful experience it once was. Light maintenance i.e. changing oil, filters, rotating tires, (includes free wash) etc. are now done by the dealership at little to no cost (depends on the deal made) but I can do those tasks at home if need be.

Replacing tires, brake jobs, and heavier repair work is delayed on newer vehicles. When the time comes for those things it will go to the shop as I have the skills and most of the tools required but now it's sometimes less work to just unfold the wallet ... ;)
 
brcase said:
I am the wrong person to get to tell you you are crazy. I just drove my 2001 Corolla with 210,000 miles on it home from work today. It replaced my 89 jeep with 270,000 miles on it. I am currently hoping to get it to 300,000 before I move to something else. The Tahoe you just bought sounds exactly like the kind of vehicle I would buy other than it I like more efficient on that will just do what I need (tow my sailplane trailer).

Brian
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Lets see...

First car was a 1974 VW Bus.. 200K on the clock before it got destroyed while parked... did rebuild the engine at 130K and while it was down services the gear box and the CV joints... It was an "effeing Panzar"

Second car 1985 VW Vanagon - got 280K on it before it finally craped out. The only maintenance issue had to deal with the AFS... turned out Bosch had a recall on them.

Third car - 1991 Ford Aerostar Van with a manual trans mission... got 180K on it, only real maintenance was a new clutch and rear transaxle..(dealer screw up when changing the universals)

Fourth car - 1998 Jeep Cherokee... it lasted to 130K but sold it to a guy for more than its current value... turns out he shipped them up to Alaska where they commanded top dollar.

Fifth car 2002 Toyota Camry - 302K when I when donated it to a local charity. Very low expenses on the maintenance.

Current car - 2019 Toyota Sienna.... only have 70K on the clock... I don't drive as much anymore.

Between the fifth and current car, I got a 1989 VW Vanagon Westphalia that I completely restored putting in a Subaru EJ 2.2. Got offered a lot of money for it one day... hope the new owner enjoys it.

With the exception of the 1974 VW Bus and the 1989 Vanagon, all of them were bought brand new. But, when the time came, they owned me nothing.
 
Daleandee said:
I like to buy a fairly new vehicle (a year old) and drive it until it's done. As I age I find that doing all my own repairs isn't the joyful experience it once was. Light maintenance i.e. changing oil, filters, rotating tires, (includes free wash) etc. are now done by the dealership at little to no cost (depends on the deal made) but I can do those tasks at home if need be.

Replacing tires, brake jobs, and heavier repair work is delayed on newer vehicles. When the time comes for those things it will go to the shop as I have the skills and most of the tools required but now it's sometimes less work to just unfold the wallet ... ;)
Click to expand...

In the same boat...

When it comes to spinning wrenches, I save my time for the airplane...

For the cars, off to the dealer we go...
 
Ventucky Red said:
Lets see...

First car was a 1974 VW Bus.. 200K on the clock before it got destroyed while parked... did rebuild the engine at 130K and while it was down services the gear box and the CV joints... It was an "effeing Panzar"

Second car 1985 VW Vanagon - got 280K on it before it finally craped out. The only maintenance issue had to deal with the AFS... turned out Bosch had a recall on them.

Third car - 1991 Ford Aerostar Van with a manual trans mission... got 180K on it, only real maintenance was a new clutch and rear transaxle..(dealer screw up when changing the universals)

Fourth car - 1998 Jeep Cherokee... it lasted to 130K but sold it to a guy for more than its current value... turns out he shipped them up to Alaska where they commanded top dollar.

Fifth car 2002 Toyota Camry - 302K when I when donated it to a local charity. Very low expenses on the maintenance.

Current car - 2019 Toyota Sienna.... only have 70K on the clock... I don't drive as much anymore.

Between the fifth and current car, I got a 1989 VW Vanagon Westphalia that I completely restored putting in a Subaru EJ 2.2. Got offered a lot of money for it one day... hope the new owner enjoys it.

With the exception of the 1974 VW Bus and the 1989 Vanagon, all of them were bought brand new. But, when the time came, they owned me nothing.
Click to expand...

I see you like VWs. I have a '74 Beetle that still runs very well but is ready for a couple of floor pans as the rust is getting to them. I drove it yesterday with a teenage grandson aboard. He likes the car but I don't think he yet understands that this car takes a driver as it's not a text on your phone and drive type of car.

VW busses are really fun except on windy days ... ;)
 
Daleandee said:
I like to buy a fairly new vehicle (a year old) and drive it until it's done. As I age I find that doing all my own repairs isn't the joyful experience it once was. Light maintenance i.e. changing oil, filters, rotating tires, (includes free wash) etc. are now done by the dealership at little to no cost (depends on the deal made) but I can do those tasks at home if need be.

Replacing tires, brake jobs, and heavier repair work is delayed on newer vehicles. When the time comes for those things it will go to the shop as I have the skills and most of the tools required but now it's sometimes less work to just unfold the wallet ... ;)
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My problem with that is still the time factor…do I spend 20 minutes in the driveway changing the oil or do I spend 2 hours taking it to the dealership and letting them do it?

On newer cars, the quicker option simply doesn’t seem to be an option anymore.
 
If your crazy so am I. My daily driver is a 2001 dodge 3500. 175000 miles and nothing wrong with it but parts availability for the v-10 is almost non existent so I had to think ahead. I’m not into the whole keep getting new every few years and part support nonexistent after ten years (and absolutely will never agree to any “subscription” to use something I “own”) so about a year ago I made the decision to go the other direction…older.. much older. I had a zero rust 1972 Cadillac fleetwood 75 I had bought cheap and drove for a year parked out in a pasture since 2009. I decided rather than buy a new car I would set aside the “monthly payment” of a new car and use that to restore it. First new tires. And a weekend and it was drivable. Then I preemptively rebuilt the engine, replaced all the hoses, brakes (cylinders, rotors, drums, lines) fuel lines and pump, water pump, power steering pump, lines, and rebuilt the power box. New suspension bushings, shocks, alternator, battery, rebuilt the carburetor, painted the frame and all internal sides of the body panels, and a few other things. It’s a great driver. Still on the to do list for this summer is a new external paint job, converting the air conditioning system, replace all the wiring, and a new custom interior. 99% of the replace parts were preemptive maintenance to make it “new”, old parts were rebuilt, painted and warehoused in my garage for future use. I have the tools and ability to do the labor myself in my spare time and like doing it, but soon will have a “showroom new” looking ‘72 Cadillac for less that $12,000 that is repairable, rebuildable, and still has readily available parts that should last the rest of my life if I don’t crash it. Cost $15/year to register, so the difference in registration costs compared to a new car offsets a lot of miles of bad gas mileage (and I don’t put many miles on a year anyway).

New enough to cruise interstate speeds all day long, power steering, brakes, windows, and has dual climate control.. old enough to be dead simple and fixable. Doesn’t have modern saftey features, but does have a 1/4” thick steel bumpers bolted directly to a very heavy steel full boxed frame and weighs over 6500 pounds so if another car does hit it they might be able to share use of their crumple zone.

Edit:
Not a video of mine but for reference for the younger members who don’t know or remember the “75’s”. I would put it’s ride quality up against anything made in the last 30 years. A springy couch floating on a cloud in silence with no turbulence at 75 mph. (Parking can be problematic).
 
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Wow, a man after my own heart! I bought one new vehicle, once, in 1984. Been driving beaters since that one died.
I really don't ant anything new, especially now. There are too many electronic things on cars now, and, as far as I'm concerned, that's just more junk to break.
I'm in the same spot as you, though. It's just about impossible to find a decent old vehicle here where we have winter and use salt on the road.
My current beater just died, so I'm in the market as well, but the weather is warming and I can ride the scooter and don't really need a car unless it's raining.
 
brcase said:
I am the wrong person to get to tell you you are crazy. I just drove my 2001 Corolla with 210,000 miles on it home from work today. It replaced my 89 jeep with 270,000 miles on it. I am currently hoping to get it to 300,000 before I move to something else. The Tahoe you just bought sounds exactly like the kind of vehicle I would buy other than it I like more efficient on that will just do what I need (tow my sailplane trailer).

Brian
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I also had a 2001 Corolla - or rather, a Chevy Prism, which was just a rebranded Corolla. It was my first company car. I thrashed it. Redlined it at every opportunity. Shifted without the clutch. Took it through deep mud. I ended up trading it in for a 2004 Crown Vic. It was pushing 200K and still running strong.

I'd kind of like to pick up a Jeep Wrangler. I've never had good luck with used cars in the past, but, I can't get what I want in a new vehicle. I want a stick. Right now I'll just stick with the 2017 Sentra. The one that @Ted envies. It's always been garaged, and I just rolled over 90K miles. It still runs like new.
 
MauleSkinner said:
My problem with that is still the time factor…do I spend 20 minutes in the driveway changing the oil or do I spend 2 hours taking it to the dealership and letting them do it?
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It takes much less than two hours at the dealership but still, I'm retired and that gives me time sit in the lounge, drink coffee, and harass correct folks online ... :biggrin:
 
Daleandee said:
It takes much less than two hours at the dealership but still, I'm retired and that gives me time sit in the lounge, drink coffee, and harass correct folks online ... :biggrin:
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Less than two hours AT the dealership, but there’s travel time, too. And I don’t drink coffee, so i can’t feel like I’m getting more than my money’s worth. ;)
 
We're all crazy on here, but this story is "too soon" for me. Two weeks ago today my daily driver, a 2003 Toyota Tacoma, 4WD, extra cab, manual everything (on purpose) got t-boned, and totaled. Luckily, no one seriously hurt, but the driver of the car that hit us broke her arm.

Not happy with any of the newer models, so will be replacing it with a 1996-2004 Toyota Tacoma - pretty much the same model through those years, and I have some parts. Probably won't be able to get manual everything though, will have to settle for the tranny. Sad days.
 
My daily is a 2003 Suburban, 240k+ miles. Drives like new, smooth, quiet, reliable. fabric interior looks good (leather would have been checking by now). I bought it about 14 years ago with 120k-ish, gave it a new transmission at 199k, and an AC compressor shortly thereafter. The Bose sound system sounds great, and I was able to buy a system to integrate iPhone and bluetooth into the factory stereo. Love that truck. I'd drive it anywhere right now, and based upon the cost for new trucks, if the engine cratered, I'd go for a long block right now.

Towed a 7500 lb trailer with it last week. It's a hoss. No rust at all - just wish I could find a decent answer to the cracking dash.

Also in the stable: two (yes, 2) Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser wagons - a '91 and a '92. And, a '76 Eldorado convertible.
 
TonyG said:
We're all crazy on here, but this story is "too soon" for me. Two weeks ago today my daily driver, a 2003 Toyota Tacoma, 4WD, extra cab, manual everything (on purpose) got t-boned, and totaled. Luckily, no one seriously hurt, but the driver of the car that hit us broke her arm.

Not happy with any of the newer models, so will be replacing it with a 1996-2004 Toyota Tacoma - pretty much the same model through those years, and I have some parts. Probably won't be able to get manual everything though, will have to settle for the tranny. Sad days.
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Sorry to hear. If you’re patient I bet you’ll find something close to what you had. Just use one of the used car apps and select the mileage you want, single owner, and no accidents - then likely for sale by owner rather than dealer - and be ready to pay a little more and have it delivered cross-country. I’m sure you find one.
 
What’s funny is that I’ve become oil-change-central for family vehicles since I’ve retired. I loved working on cars until I was time limited due to work and family - it would be a frustrating anxious rush - now it’s fun again. Brakes on my daughter’s car replaced last week.
 
Newest vehicle I own is an '07 F-350 crew cab dually flatbed diesel, it was given to me. Pretty good truck, especially for free. A new one would be upwards of $100K, I could never justify that for how much it gets driven.

My car is a 1996 Toyota 4Runner with 322,000 miles. It doesn't burn oil, doesn't leak oil, drives great, and I have never been let down. I guy did move it from Wyoming to Idaho for me, and burned up the clutch. I put a new one in it at 316,000 miles. Best cars ever, they run forever, get decent mileage, rarely have any problems, and they drive pretty well. I could buy another one of those for every 5 or 6 payments on a new one. And, the insurance is quite a bit less on an old car.
 
Yeah not a fan of any new car enough to make payments on one. The electronic doodads and plastic parts all seem pretty nice showroom new, but get glitchy, haggard and expensive after a few years...that way you go buy a new one. And for that reason, I'm out. I love old, restored muscle cars but I'd prefer to find a clean one with a slant 6 and a manual transmission. That would be perfect!
 
The prices and design of the new stuff I can’t wrap my head around

Most stuff made post 2000s is more disposable than repairable

Friend got a brand new SUV, it’s nice enough, but when you get into it tons of plastic, it’s “radio / nav” looks like a cheap alibaba tablet glued to the dash and works about the same, taking it around corners and the like it’s god a good amount of body roll, the has some getup but the engine sounds small and over stressed, seems like a decent $15,000 economy SUV/car, but it was about $50,000.00

Noooooope


Same with the guys at work who buy a new “sports car” complete with lots of nanny “features” and these sports cars are getting HUGE in their size, I’m like for the same or less you could get a classic (not even that old) 911 turbo, or a 60s restored vette, way more of a head turner, more fun to drive, and in 5yrs it’ll be worth the same or more, where as your “new” sports car will just be old and worth waaaay less than you paid.

But I also change my own aircraft oil and tires so, different breeds man
 
Current car is a 2014 Grand Caravan with 220500 miles. Had to put (my fault I screwed up a torque converter swap) a used transmission in it 4 years ago for $2k.

Parts are cheap and I plan on running it until it literally falls apart.

I priced out a new car recently... absolutely no way in Hades I spend $800-$1200 a month on a depreciating asset.

Swapping a motor might cost $2k... that's about 2-3 new car payments then back to $0 per month. I'll take that deal.
 
It's not always the engine and transmission that gets you. It can be the other little crap. Air conditioning, steering, brakes, suspension, power seats/locks/windows, etc etc etc. Death by a thousand cuts. At some point it's just not worth it. A car with 200K miles and a new engine is not a zero miles car.
 
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