Removed antenna screw-on doubler plate?

DesertNomad

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DesertNomad
My plane is in annual and I had them remove an INOP Stormscope WX10A to make room on the panel for other things. I may eventually replace it with a model 500 remote unit. They took out the instrument, processor and antenna.

When they (not my shop) originally installed the Stormscope antenna on the rear belly many years ago, they screwed up and ended up drilling twice as many holes as they should have, and the large center one for the main connection had to be ovaled. Note that I have not seen this but am relating what my shop told me it looked like.

This past week, my shop removed the antenna (thus discovering all the holes) and screwed an external plate to the original antenna backing plate with the "swiss cheese" skin sandwiched in between. This is meant to be permanent but maybe it would be best if I took it to a good sheet metal place. I was hoping it could be riveted with an internal doubler plate and made smooth but my shop said this external plate was a good solution. Perhaps they are just reluctant to do much sheet metal work.

They still need to clean up the sealant around the edges and paint it. He said it was primed... Does that look primed since you can still see writing on the metal?

Does it seem like there is a better way to do this?
 

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That's a "boiler plate". LOL. Sorry, yeah, it's ugly, yeah it's lightly primered. An internal doubler could be pretty involved with that frame there.Any other internal structure close? If it's any consolation, most airliners have boiler plates like that on them, and it won't stand out so much if the topcoat paint matches the existing.
 
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You need a flush patch!
This one is a bit rough but if you take some time, it will be barely noticeable when you are done.
I had to do one for my A practical exam.
The sketch in AC43.13 (4-16) is not very helpful.
IMG_1365.JPG
 
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A scab patch is fine for now, but jeez what a sloppy install. The sealant should have been formed into a nice fillet all around the patch, and it should have been primed heavier. A flush patch is way better, but it can wait til you are going to repaint, unless you have good touch up paint left.
 
Zink Chromate primer should be applied so as to see a #2 pencil line thru it. The Patch is ugly, but they got the right amount of primer on it.
 
The primer is fine, we're not talking about primer/surfacer here, it's Zinc Chromate, a self etching, protective coating. It doesn't have to achieve full coverage to do it's job.
 
The general consensus from a group of A&P's is: If the screw slots were aligned it would look much better, and with 6 coats of primer and 6 coats of paint added it will look great from the ground at FL 010.
 
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