Recommended Alternators for Piper

mandm

Pattern Altitude
Joined
Feb 7, 2020
Messages
2,396
Location
Chicago
Display Name

Display name:
Michael
I have a working alternator, it’s the old Chrysler 60amps one, but it doesn’t like when you run too many things for several hours. Fuses start to pop. My AP said to overhaul the alternator and the voltage regulator. Will this solve any issues? The issue is if I’m running avionics, strobes, landing light, pitot heat, panel lights etc then it doesn’t like that. My AP also mentioned Plane Power alternators that might provide more reliable amps for in flight power but both the recommended unit and the Plane Power alternator are both 60amps. Any thoughts?
 
I’ve had a PlanePower alternator and Zeftronics voltage regulator in my Warrior since 2008 (1500 hours ago). Still working fine
 
but it doesn’t like when you run too many things for several hours. Fuses start to pop.
FYI: this is not a supply problem but a load, distribution, or wiring problem. That's what the fuses are telling you. You may want to review your wire sizes, system loads, etc. before simply buying a new alternator and regulator.
 
If it's the alternator 60-amp breaker that's popping, the problem is likely an old breaker. Those breakers are thermal devices, with a bimetal conductor in them that has a tiny bit of resistance to cause heating and bending of the conductor to pop the breaker if the current gets too high. The contacts in them oxidize with age, introducing additional resistance that pops them off a lot sooner. That can happen to the other breakers as well.

And it can happen to fuses, too. Their holders get oxidized and add resistance and heating, and since the fuse is also a thermal device, it lets go too soon. Sometimes it's actually old crimp terminals on the wires connected to the fuseholder or breaker that's the problem; corrosion causes resistance and heating and early fuse or breaker opening.

A tired alternator won't cause breakers or fuses to pop unless they're feeding more modern stuff like some avionics that will demand more current as voltage drops, to keep the power consumption the same.

Alternators should be opened up every 500 hours anyway. Their brushes wear and fail and leave you in the dark.

Breakers or fuses popping off everywhere might be a sign of serious overvoltage. Bad regulator, maybe.
 
So basically it’s two parts to buy

The alternator and regulator are two separate items. You may also have a separate over voltage control as well.

Before you start spending a bunch of money on things you may not really need, I'd suggest actually figuring out what is going on. You may not need to replace everything.
 
The alternator and regulator are two separate items. You may also have a separate over voltage control as well.

Before you start spending a bunch of money on things you may not really need, I'd suggest actually figuring out what is going on. You may not need to replace everything.
<raises hand and waving> I just spent 1.3 AMU on a new alternator and voltage regulator before discovering that my intermittent electrical problem was a loose connection on the master switch. :mad:
 
<raises hand and waving> I just spent 1.3 AMU on a new alternator and voltage regulator before discovering that my intermittent electrical problem was a loose connection on the master switch. :mad:

That’s actually why I wrote that. From the description being given I’m wondering if there isn’t a problem with the wiring or connections going to/from the voltage regulator. If the forums are correct, it seems to be a common problem.

Sorry about your luck!
 
I wasn't real impressed with Chrysler's ability to design a quality charging system years ago when I owned a few of their road products. At one point I thought maybe they partnered with Lucas ... :D
 
Replacing exterior lights with LED is a good step-forward in draw reduction.

Seems you did interior already. Congratulations.

whelen seems to be the preferred vendor.
 
Back
Top