This is true, but the AC does show what the FAA's policy is on the subject.
Sand paper can be nonmetallic, but in any case it will scratch/remove the anodizing that protects the base metal.
But you could strip it, wash it, and re-coat it and touch up the bare metal with alodine 1200, as a minor repair, and have an A&P return it to service.well....you certainly wouldn't want to go sand blasting it.
the anodizing is gone anyways.....that's why your painting it in the first place.
Why do you think that?
what happens when the paint chips away....Tom?
You have a small spot of no paint, doesn't mean the anodizing is gone, remember this is a electro-chemical process, it becomes coating of the base metal, and will not peel, you must actually remove it by sanding, etching or other mechanical means.what happens when the paint chips away....Tom?
so Tom....why is the paint chipping in the first place?....and what happens to the base layer? Think the magic stays stuck there? So, why even bother to paint if the magic is still there?
That's what I have tried to get across, Its better to do nothing, than to do harm. just to make it look good, you damage the prop.
I don't know, maybe he operates off a dirt strip, and doesn't know how. Really it is of no matter, the repair is the same, alodine and re-finish.
Most definitely, so why do it?
So why would running a spinning prop from a dirt strip be any different?
No....not from the iPhone.IOWs you can't spell " Anodizing".
That's kind of funny coming from a guy who spells "zinc" as "zink" and the abbreviation of mercury, Hg, as "HQ"IOWs you can't spell " Anodizing".
"Sand Blasting it" implies you remove it all, we never see that in service.
the point is Tom....the mechanism of removal is the same - abraision.....and it does remove the magic stuff.
Well... what did they fix for that 1AMU?
Are you careful to not remove anodizing?Just called a prop shop nearby. They alodine during repair and overhaul. The factory anodizes and the factory ICA's recommend alodine during field repair and overhaul. If you see an anodized finish, chances are you have first run factory blades. At my work, we alodine our props and touch up the paint as directed by the manufacturer and industry standard practices.
We also use files and sandpaper and scotchbrite to remove nicks and prep the blades for touchup.
Just called a prop shop nearby. They alodine during repair and overhaul. The factory anodizes and the factory ICA's recommend alodine during field repair and overhaul. If you see an anodized finish, chances are you have first run factory blades. At my work, we alodine our props and touch up the paint as directed by the manufacturer and industry standard practices.
We also use files and sandpaper and scotchbrite to remove nicks and prep the blades for touchup.
Oh, to you any discussion between A&Ps and or AMEs is a pizzling contest.
In normal service it won't remove all of it like sand blasting does. And in normal service the treatment is to alodine and refinish. no matter how much is removed.the point is Tom....the mechanism of removal is the same - abraision.....and it does remove the magic stuff.
No just one of the members
New seals plus inspect and paint. We were getting some oil residue around the base of the blades. New engine so it was time.Well... what did they fix for that 1AMU?
I'm sure the anodizing does come off whatever location needs the dressing. No way to avoid it. Whatever nicked the prop also damaged the anodizing layer as mentioned by @Checkout_my_Six .
And YES, I was born ready.
As long as it is just the paint missing, just keep up the corrosion X treatment.
Electrogalvanizing is also an electrochemical process. So is cadmium plating. Anodizing creates a layer up to 150 micrometers thick, so a chip could get through it without much difficulty.
I note that there are several respondents to your question that are pretty consistent in their answers to your question and one who isn'tI'm good. I take meds for the blood pressure. Just taking it all in. I still don't know what I'm gonna do.
I don't really care about making it look good. The rest of the airplane is as ugly as ol' Cooter Brown's mom anyway, and you can't polish a turd. I have just heard on several occasions that any exposed aluminimimum needs to be touched up, lest it begin to corrode. I have neglected to do so thus far, but have used CorrosionX as a precaution. Fact is, the faces are probably 50% paint and 50% bare aluminum at this point, and a shot of something protective seemed appropriate. I was trying not to have to remove the thing right now and get it to a prop shop if possible, but that may well be the right thing to do. The prop has about 400 hrs on it, and to my knowledge, hasn't been to a shop since new. No oil leaks, but does have some dings in the leading edges and a whole bunch paint gone mostly because of our basically gravel hangar apron.
I'll ponder upon it further. 'Preciate the input.
@JCranford I don't need to ask you how you know.
I note that there are several respondents to your question that are pretty consistent in their answers to your question and one who isn't
It's not just a different opinion or his condescension. He makes posts beyond his knowledge and continues to assert his own set of facts even when they are shown to be wrong. The problem is that someone asking for help doesn't know where his knowledge ends and where the BS begins which can lead to a bad decision. I question whether he actually does know more about it. I agree with you about the price in messing it up.
