Painting Propeller?

JC150

Pre-takeoff checklist
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JC150
I want to paint my propeller with a fresh coat of paint. I was thinking about using Propeller Epoxy Coating from aircraft spruce. Is there anything special I need to do before applying it? How about afterwards? Do I need to do a logbook entry in the propeller logbook? Do I need to have the propeller balanced? Thanks for your time.
 
If your asking about the prop spray paint . The problem is in the balance of the prop,not easy to do equal amount of paint on each blade. Also thickness varies on the blade. Looks good after painting.
 
Personally, I'd give each blade a light scuff with scotchbrite, hit 'em with a degreaser (denatured alcohol works fine), mask everything, and apply the same number of light, even rattle can coats to each blade.

Being that a metal prop is heavy and paint is light, if you're careful, you won't materially impact the balance.
 
Personally, I'd give each blade a light scuff with scotchbrite, hit 'em with a degreaser (denatured alcohol works fine), mask everything, and apply the same number of light, even rattle can coats to each blade.

Being that a metal prop is heavy and paint is light, if you're careful, you won't materially impact the balance.

I agree,,,,
 
Test it out on one blade first...
 
I've repainted a lot of propellers, never had a balance problem ( I also did prop balancing with an Aces 2020 Probalancer, so I was able to check).

We also routinely repainted leading edges of helicopter blades, and again, never a balance problem.
 
I've repainted a lot of propellers, never had a balance problem ( I also did prop balancing with an Aces 2020 Probalancer, so I was able to check).

We also routinely repainted leading edges of helicopter blades, and again, never a balance problem.

I have had the same experience...
 
to get the most even spread, get a paint sprayer, stand in front of the prop, fire up the engine and spray away. you should get evenly coated.
 
Personally, I'd give each blade a light scuff with scotchbrite,

DO NOT DO THAT

The aluminum has a ANODIZED coating. Scotch bright scratches that. and you will cause corrosion that will be cause to condemn your prop at the next prop shop visit.
 
DO NOT DO THAT

The aluminum has a ANODIZED coating. Scotch bright scratches that. and you will cause corrosion that will be cause to condemn your prop at the next prop shop visit.

Interesting....

What happens when you file a ding out of the prop.... Does the file NOT remove the Anodized coating???:dunno::confused:
 
DO NOT DO THAT

The aluminum has a ANODIZED coating. Scotch bright scratches that. and you will cause corrosion that will be cause to condemn your prop at the next prop shop visit.


1) The OP asked about a "fresh" coat of paint. The assumption is that he's scuffing paint, not bare metal.

2) The bare metal areas (if any) are almost certainly the result of rock chips, so the anodized layer is already compromised. Prepping and painting those areas will reduce corrosion, not promote it.
 
1) The OP asked about a "fresh" coat of paint. The assumption is that he's scuffing paint, not bare metal.

2) The bare metal areas (if any) are almost certainly the result of rock chips, so the anodized layer is already compromised. Prepping and painting those areas will reduce corrosion, not promote it.

What's going to stop the scotch bright from scratching thru the paint?

Can you tell from where you are how thick the paint is?


The Anodizing may be gone where the bare metal is showing is no excuse to remove any more.
remove the prop, chemically strip the prop. give it 1 wet coat of flat black on the back side, and 1 coat of silver on the front. balance should not be a problem. have your A&P reinstall it.
 
Interesting....

What happens when you file a ding out of the prop.... Does the file NOT remove the Anodized coating???:dunno::confused:

Do you file "blend" the entire prop?

Think about it Henning think.
 
to get the most even spread, get a paint sprayer, stand in front of the prop, fire up the engine and spray away. you should get evenly coated.


AHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
to get the most even spread, get a paint sprayer, stand in front of the prop, fire up the engine and spray away. you should get evenly coated.

If you stand behind the prop you will definitely get evenly coated :)
 
But how do you paint the back of the prop? With a roller?
 
I completely stripped and painted my propeller and have had no issues and it has held up well. I just used some rustoleum paint as anything more is a waste in my opinion.
 
If you paint it and its out of balance, put another coat on just one blade. If it gets better, you did the right thing. If it gets worse, put two coats on the OTHER blade.
 
I agree to avoid disturbing the anodize coat if possible... that's common sense. But anodizing is aluminum converted to aluminum oxide, grinding wheel material, very hard. The idea is to cut through grime, grease, etc, without upsetting the underlying anodize. It's hard without power sanding/grinding to get through that anodize layer.

If the prop is already painted, just needs freshening, the current coat of paint is a good clue about where you are with any abrasive media like a scotch-brite. If you aren't through the paint, you haven't reached the anodize layer. All this assumes it's PAINT and not a BLACK ANODIZE layer.

My gut tells me a good solvent degrease, a bit of rubbing, would prep the prop correctly, avoiding abrasives if at all possible. Then, an even coating each blade shouldn't upset balance.

^^ Opinion of a garage mechanic, NOT a "real" A&P. It'd probably be best to let a prop shop handle it, if you can afford it.
 
I want to paint my propeller with a fresh coat of paint. I was thinking about using Propeller Epoxy Coating from aircraft spruce. Is there anything special I need to do before applying it? How about afterwards? Do I need to do a logbook entry in the propeller logbook? Do I need to have the propeller balanced? Thanks for your time.


I have tried the Tempo Epoxy rattle cans, the nozzle clogged up quickly, then the paint came right off in some light rain, so much for all my efforts, then went to Rustoleum and it works fine for a light touch up.
 
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