Ordering parts for a 47 year old airplane

Timbeck2

Timbeck2

Final Approach
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Nov 4, 2015
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Vail, Arizona
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Timbeck2
Is it just me or do you guys share the frustration of NOT having to order the parts readily available just about everywhere, but the part YOU need seems to be made of unobtainium or simply not stocked by anyone anymore?

I'm trying to order a bolt...ONE bolt, specifically an AN174-25A with a drilled head. I may be able to re-use the one I have (I haven't removed it yet) but based on past experience, it will be worn out and I need a new one.

With this, I utter a phrase that like my airplane owning friends and my mechanic say more and more these days: "****ing airplanes!" :sigh:
 
With a drilled head? From a website that you can actually order from and don't have to order 25 minimum? I'm all eyes.
 
I remember helping the mechanic do an annual on a early 40s Stearman.

It needed a master cylinder rebuild. He knew a guy that was considered as THE man to go to for Stearman parts, so he called.

The guy said go to the NAPA store and get a master cylinder rebuild kit for a mid 30s Ford truck.

When I got the master cylinder off, it had FORD embossed on it....
 
Tim: Correct callout for a drilled head AN174 would be AN174-H25. The callout you listed is for an undrilled bolt. Go to everyspec.com, Library, AN for the listing. You will need to download Rev 7 for the full spec.

BTW, it's free, no registration or anything required.
 
I have a 1976 Cessna 172 and I have just changed the shock mounts on the left shock instrument panel for the second time in 27 years, Had to release all instruments from the panel and removed 3 from the lower left. Did not remove the Amp meter or the vacuum gage. Amp meter leads are long enough to give you room when the panel is pulled away. Found it useful to pull the panel away from the fixed panel. The six of the original shocks had disintegrated. Ozone..

The shocks sold at A/C Spruce for about $7.50 are Lord shocks and are formed from opposed metal discs that have an 8-32 bolt extending in opposed directions, the discs are spaced appart by a rubber cylinder that is about 7/16 inch diameter and 1/2 inch long. If you go to a hardware store (Ace) and get a 1 or more inch long aluminum 8 - 32 stand-off it can used as a holder for the Lord shocks (iso-mode) when inserting in the panel. Tearing away the old rubber shock cylinder leaves the metal disc on the panel with the bolt through the panel and the nut behind the panel in place. A pliers can be used to slightly rotate the disc on the panel face which breaks the nut free behind the panel. If you hold your finger on the nut and washer on the rear of the panel, you can spin the old disc out, then using your other hand to insert the shaft of a new shock through the panel while still holding the nut firmly against the back of the fixed panel..You can spin the lord mount to engage the nut at the rear of the panel under your finger. If the nut slips, but is not dropped, you can use an awl to recenter in on the hole to receive the bolt from the new lord shock. An 11/32nd socket and a short 1/4 in drive ratchet can be used to tighten the 8/32 nut behind the panel without stressing the new shock. Expect some discomfort and use care to not damage the instruments released. It takes about a day

The bezel (plastic) on the oil temp and oil pressure assy fell off. I used a single tube of 90 second epoxy from a 99 cent store to lock the bezel onto its metal frame.
 
You can get new parts?? Must be nice.
 
Parts availability is rarely a real issue if you know where to look and who to talk to. I've got a 1954 Twin Bonanza and a 1972 Super Viking, and I have yet to have a real issue finding a part. It usually takes digging around, sometimes a lot of digging, and sometimes costs more than it should, but the parts are out there.

Also, make sure you're familiar with AC 23-27. Gives guidance and some leeway on parts substitution for older aircraft.

https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_23-27.pdf
 
I have used Wentworth several times for my 1976 Cessna 172. Only had problem once and that was with a Pilots Door that was busted up inside from being caught by a tail wind on the ground. The door received from Wentworth for about
$950 looked like it would be more to fix than the one on the plane so I had a sheet metal expert at Rubideux Flabob CA airport that made it like new for $300 and it took more than a month to get the door back. But it was as good as new.. He treated sheet metal work like a religion and he had all the equipment and then some. Wentworth put all of the funds back on the credit card when they received the returned door with absolutely no problems. I had to pay return shipping but they gave me a discount procedure with UPS and it was much less than $100 for the return of the crate.
 
I need your course on what the "upload a file" is all about and when it should be used. Try whole sentences.
 
Zeldman said:
I remember helping the mechanic do an annual on a early 40s Stearman.

It needed a master cylinder rebuild. He knew a guy that was considered as THE man to go to for Stearman parts, so he called.

The guy said go to the NAPA store and get a master cylinder rebuild kit for a mid 30s Ford truck.

When I got the master cylinder off, it had FORD embossed on it....
Click to expand...

That works as long as the Ford truck used the same brake fluid as the Stearman. Might have been so. Most vehicles have, for a very long time, used DOT-3 brake fluid, while light aircraft (and some old heavies) use MIL-5606. The two are completely different, and using the wrong fluid in any brake system guarantees failures and expensive repairs. I used to make a living rebuilding brake stuff, both air and hydraulic, and the number of automotive/truck hydraulic components that showed up with swollen or disintegrated rubber parts was simply amazing. People would top up low fluid with motor oil or ATF or power steering fluid.
 
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