Ol' Blue has a ways to go

Big thing with the newer cars is a mechanic willing to use the diagnostic equipment and information at hand.

As long as they use it correctly.

If I had $1 for every time someone replaced an oxygen sensor for a lean code, only to discover it didn't fix the problem, I'd have no problem financing my flying hobby.

OBD-II diagnostics are a guide. A cam sensor code might be the cam sensor, or it might be the broken ground wire attached to it. Wiring dies ALL the time; this is not at all a rare occurrence. For instance, they might get eaten by critters, or melted by engine heat, or even done in by another fault (I had one broken ground burn out another, for instance, on the VW).
 
It's R-12 and any car after 1994 doesn't have it. Your 1997 has R-134 which is available everywhere.

I have had no problems getting my R-12 system serviced. Pretty much any serious shop that does A/C work can cope with both. The requirements for storage and handling aren't that bad, I've been told.
 
I have no idea what Chevy recommends, I just roll with it. 180k+ all I have ever done is 1 set of brakes, 1 set of tires, a coolant temp sensor and oil changes. Hope it makes it until I pay it off :D


-VanDy

Pretty sure they recommend 100k as well, that's pretty standard. I just changed them on my wife's Avalanche at about 138k, and they looked original. Did improve the way the truck ran.
 
I'm around 5,870 miles and my jeep is going in for new heads.... POS
 
not only did ol' blue get new tires yesterday but i also filled the gas tank. it will never be worth as much as it was yesterday.

Until the next time you put the 'last' set of new tires on it and fill the gas tank. ;)
 
Keep in mind that the pressure is the same right after stopping as it is while driving. It's regulated by the rad cap. So, if pressure is causing a blow-out, it should still be there right after you shut off.

A lower rad hose is a reasonable hypothesis -- and it's cheap and relatively easy to fix. The radiator, less so. It should be easy to confirm visually even if the hose is not leaking at the time of inspection.

Well, I may have finally found the culprit of my leak. Got the engine up to operating temp and then ran it at driving RPM for a few minutes while sitting in the driveway. Looked ALL over the darn thing - no drip, no weep, no nothing. Checked oil - it looks fine. No combustion 'trash' in the reservoir. WTF is the water going!? Finally, I crawl under the car ONE more time and notice WAAY up in there what looks like some antifreeze-colored corrosion. Poke around a bit and figure out that it is the hose that comes from the bottom of the radiator into the engine block. It appears to be weeping around the hose where it attaches to the flange on the block. Now the bad news - there is NO way to get to it without taking the whole front-end of the car apart... again. I had that thing apart when I did the timing belt/water pump/thermostat a couple of years ago and swore up and down that would be the last major work I did to that car.

So now I'm torn... Do I keep shopping for a replacement vehicle and just call this thing dead? Do I keep putting water and maybe some leak fix stuff in and hope it either fixes itself or dies completely? Do I take the weekend and rip the front end off the stupid thing (again) and fix the hose on a 240,000 mile vehicle that has a crappy radio... but is paid for and gets 26mpg at 80mph.

Decisions decisions... :mad2:
 
You e just learned why I do a lot of extra "while I'm there" work on the Mitsubishi to prevent having such a problem.

Is there any way to get at the hose clamp to try tightening it a hair more without replacing? Might not work, but might work.

Only you can make the choice. I would probably have a hard time getting rid of a car just because of a hose leak.
 
You e just learned why I do a lot of extra "while I'm there" work on the Mitsubishi to prevent having such a problem.

Is there any way to get at the hose clamp to try tightening it a hair more without replacing? Might not work, but might work.

Only you can make the choice. I would probably have a hard time getting rid of a car just because of a hose leak.

That's the boat I'm in right now. When I thought it was a head gasket, it was a no brainer. Now that it's a leaky hose, it's hard to justify getting rid of the darn thing.

I just thought of something.. Right now, the hose has a self-tensioning hose clamp on it. I wonder if I took that off and put one of the old-fashioned screw-tightening hose clamps if that might do the trick. I might be able to contort my arms enough to get that done without having to remove everything between the block and front bumper.
 
Try the clamp first. If there's enough hose over the nipple, maybe try two clamps just to help it a bit more. Could allow you to limp along.

When I changed my alternator on the Turbo Sushi (which involves removing the radiator), I put new radiator hoses on for a reason.
 
Jeez, don't half ass this or it's going to bite you when you least expect it.

The hose is, well, hosed. Replace it. Even when taking the "whole front end" apart (which I've had to do to replace the radiator on my VW), it's still not a major repair. And while you're in there, replace anything that looks questionable so you're not in this spot again. If you've done it once before, it will be substantially faster the second time.

The problem is almost certainly NOT the clamp. Tightening it or replacing it will be a temporary repair at best, and might split the hose (or worse -- the nipple, if you overtighten it badly) and kill it completely. Weeping out the end is often caused by a tight clamp, not necessarily a loose one. The hallmark of that problem is a puckered hose end.

If it's more than you want to deal with, take it to a neighborhood mechanic. I guarantee it's cheaper than a new car.

I'm a little surprised it's THAT hard to get to a lower hose. I've seen some contortions, but never something quite that bad. Might want to find an "enthusiast" board for your vehicle, and ask if there is an easier way to do it. If the clamp is one of the squeeze-it-with-pliers types, you might save yourself a lot of grief by visiting Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and getting a variety of angled $2 pliers. You can also often get much better access by cutting the hose out with a utility knife before removing the clamp, but of course that commits you to the repair right now. Then, replace the clamp with the screw type (as the access from the side is usually easier), but do NOT overtighten it.
 
^ Good advice but i'd just go with another factory replacement self-tension hose clamp. It lasted 240,000 miles.
 
Replace the clamp, at 240k it likely isn't providing near the tension it once was. Use a worm drive only because you don't have to take the hose off to install it.

Now if you HAVE to take it apart to do the camp, then do the hose too!
 
Jeez, don't half ass this or it's going to bite you when you least expect it.

The hose is, well, hosed. Replace it. Even when taking the "whole front end" apart (which I've had to do to replace the radiator on my VW), it's still not a major repair. And while you're in there, replace anything that looks questionable so you're not in this spot again. If you've done it once before, it will be substantially faster the second time.

The problem is almost certainly NOT the clamp. Tightening it or replacing it will be a temporary repair at best, and might split the hose (or worse -- the nipple, if you overtighten it badly) and kill it completely. Weeping out the end is often caused by a tight clamp, not necessarily a loose one. The hallmark of that problem is a puckered hose end.

If it's more than you want to deal with, take it to a neighborhood mechanic. I guarantee it's cheaper than a new car.

I'm a little surprised it's THAT hard to get to a lower hose. I've seen some contortions, but never something quite that bad. Might want to find an "enthusiast" board for your vehicle, and ask if there is an easier way to do it. If the clamp is one of the squeeze-it-with-pliers types, you might save yourself a lot of grief by visiting Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and getting a variety of angled $2 pliers. You can also often get much better access by cutting the hose out with a utility knife before removing the clamp, but of course that commits you to the repair right now. Then, replace the clamp with the screw type (as the access from the side is usually easier), but do NOT overtighten it.

^ Good advice but i'd just go with another factory replacement self-tension hose clamp. It lasted 240,000 miles.

Replace the clamp, at 240k it likely isn't providing near the tension it once was. Use a worm drive only because you don't have to take the hose off to install it.

Now if you HAVE to take it apart to do the camp, then do the hose too!

Challenge-Accepted.jpg


Well crap. Now it looks like I'll spend my weekend stuck under a friggin' car. Oh well.. It's supposed to rain, so there isn't much else I could have done anyway.

If I get this thing going again, I'm shooting for 300k out of the 'Green Machine'. ;)
 
I always will try the clamp first (on a car anyway)

I have seen many more clamp failures than hose failures.
 
Replace the clamp, at 240k it likely isn't providing near the tension it once was. Use a worm drive only because you don't have to take the hose off to install it.

Now if you HAVE to take it apart to do the camp, then do the hose too!

Duncan has this correct.

Those factory spring clamps are a royal PITA. Really don't like them.
 
Duncan has this correct.

Those factory spring clamps are a royal PITA. Really don't like them.

I love spring clamps with the right tools (hate them without). I especially like GM including new clamps with a hose and locked back from the factory. Super fast to change.
 
Well crap. Now it looks like I'll spend my weekend stuck under a friggin' car. Oh well.. It's supposed to rain, so there isn't much else I could have done anyway.

If I get this thing going again, I'm shooting for 300k out of the 'Green Machine'. ;)

I'm sure you will. 300K isn't that hard with good maintenance. Heck, I got an Exploder over that, and a Geo really close (wife totalled it). God only knows how many miles are on the Chevy truck or the VW; either might be over that.
 
I love spring clamps with the right tools (hate them without). I especially like GM including new clamps with a hose and locked back from the factory. Super fast to change.

The right tools make them easier, but of course I don't have them and have no intention of buying them. When I remove one I replace it with a normal clamp.
 
I love spring clamps with the right tools (hate them without). I especially like GM including new clamps with a hose and locked back from the factory. Super fast to change.

GM glued the clamps to all the intercooler hoses on my car.

Makes them a royal PITA to change even with the right tools.
 
GM glued the clamps to all the intercooler hoses on my car.

Makes them a royal PITA to change even with the right tools.

What GM car had a factory intercooler?
 
Air/water on Ion Redline, 05-07 Cobalt SS (LSJ engine)
Ar/air on 08+ Cobalt SS, Sky Redline, Solstice GXP, and HHR SS (LNF engine)

I suspect the CTS-V, ZR-1 and new Z-28 have air/water as well
 
Interesting! I didn't know GM had started putting those in.
 
Got the hose clamp replaced over the weekend (with bloody knuckles as proof). Drove it to work this morning, and the low water warning light never came on. I'll check the reservoir level when I head to lunch.

There is smaller hose next to the one that I replaced the clamp on that also had a little corrosion around, but hopefully it was just where the larger hose was dripping down. I'll need a whole lot more swear words if I want to replace the clamp on that smaller hose.
 
And a few hundred for a 1/4 million mile vehicle is a bit unrealistic. You'll be lucky if it covers the tow.

I got two or three hundred for a 250,000 mile Chevy S10 that was completely rusted apart with the entire frond-end destroyed via accident. It was nowhere near running and leaked coolant much worse than his VW I'd bet.
 
Sounds like you're good for at least another 250k, Chris. Sorry, looks like you aren't buying a new car anytime soon.

Or else it'll explode tomorrow. ;)
 
I have a 2003 Jetta, transmission apparently needs one or more solenoids, but no one wants to work on it - just replace the tranny. Many many many dollars.

Solenoids, bunches, INSIDE THE CASE.

Fine Japanese design (yes, on a VW).
 
I have a 2003 Jetta, transmission apparently needs one or more solenoids, but no one wants to work on it - just replace the tranny. Many many many dollars.

Solenoids, bunches, INSIDE THE CASE.

Fine Japanese design (yes, on a VW).

Same transmission on Karen's. She's on transmission number three and I want to dump and run, she still likes the car. I think it's a POS. ;)
 
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