[NA] Painting truck bumper..

CJones

CJones

Final Approach
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Messages
6,051
Location
Jawjuh
Display Name
uHaveNoIdea
Home Airfield
KCCO
Ok.. This is COMPLETELY not-aviation related, but this board is a very deep source of knowledge, so I thought I would pose this question to the masses.

I want to repaint the bumper on my 1994 GMC Sierra pickup truck (230,000 miles and counting! :rofl: :yes: ). It's standard black - not chrome. It was completely rust-free until I moved to the 'Rust Belt' (i.e. IOWA). Since moving here, the rust has gradually been creeping outward from the scratches that evovled from me installing/removing the ball hitch on the bumper. I know - GO BUY A RECEIVER HITCH!

My question: What type of paint should I use for the job? My plan is to: 1.) Remove paint from entire bumper. 2.) Grind rust 'pits' out of metal and *maybe* do some bondo work to fill the rough spots. 3.) Prime. 4.) Paint.

Is there a particular 'type' of primer I should use? Is there a more durable type of paint I can use instead of the normal automotive color coat? Should I clear coat it afterwards? I'll probably go to NAPA or Arnold Motor Supply to get some 'real' automotive paint, but I was wondering if anyone knew of any special type of material I should use to get a more durable covering. I spent a couple of weeks in a body shop putting in some sweat equity when we were getting the RV painted, so I have a general knowledge of 'how' to do things, but I am completely oblivious as to specifics regarding primer, paint, etc. We are painting some equipment at work using HVLP spray guns, so I thought I could get this little job done while we already have a mess started.

Thanks for any info,

-Chris
 
Chris,

They make a "rust converter and primer" that essentially converts the rust in some kind of chemical change into a coating and primer.

I'd use that first, then a good primer and finish coat. Check with Napa or your local auto store.
 
CJones said:
Ok.. ..
My plan is to: 1.) Remove paint from entire bumper. 2.) Grind rust 'pits' out of metal and *maybe* do some bondo work to fill the rough spots. 3.) Prime. 4.) Paint.
Click to expand...

Unless you plan to powder coat that is pretty much the drill. No "maybe" on the bondo, the new finish will show up every blemish. Why work so hard to make it look crappy?

CJones said:
Is there a more durable type of paint I can use instead of the normal automotive color coat?
Click to expand...

Durability tree: IMRON, Amerflint, or other two part epoxy (epoxys tend to be toxic, best if you have a booth and supplied air system), -> two part polyurethane (less toxic, can get by with a properly fitted respirator, but all the hassels of two part finishes), -> one part polyurethane (good stuff for durable home spray job, gotta get it right because you can't buff it like laquer), -> laquer (classic, durable with a killer gloss and depth if you are willing to put in the coats, can be compounded if it dulls), Acrylic enamel (easiest for home use, will look great with good spray technique but is soft), fish oil paint (ie: Rustoleum, really, properly done it is a good short term solution)

CJones said:
Should I clear coat it afterwards?
Click to expand...

Yes if you want the modern finishes to last. The plastics (epoxy and poly) can't be buffed and dull quickly in the sun, hence the use of clear coats. They work good with laquer also. There it is used for depth. Laquer buffs to an incredible shine but lacks that candy-like deep look if you don't add clear coats. Clear coat is great until it fails.

I once had a 74 MG I stripped to metal and refinished in Porsche metallic charcoal black. It took me almost three months to restore. Four color coats with 400 wet sand between, three 50/50 mixed color and clear coats with 600 wet sand between, three full clear coats afinal wet sand and buffing out. It was sharp. The first drive after paint I stopped at a convienience store. Before I could even open the door a chick in a rust bucked pinto screeches into the passenger side space, flings her door open and puts a quarter size ding on the door!

"Gee, I'm sorry can I pay for the repair?" :eek: :(

It wasn't a pretty conversation but, surprisingly I did not yell, curse, call her names, threaten violence, or make her pay. However, after I explained what her thoughlessness meant to me and how I just didn't see how any amount of money she could come up with would amount to sqaut, I don't think she was ever so thoughless again.

CJones said:
but I was wondering if anyone knew of any special type of material I should use to get a more durable covering.
Click to expand...

For maximum durabilty send it off for powder coat. That is what it had and why it did not rust until you let air in underneath the coating. BTW, water does not rust metal, oxygen does. The impurities in water (salts) merely provide a bridge electrolytic path.

CJones said:
... I have a general knowledge of 'how' to do things, but I am completely oblivious as to specifics regarding primer, paint, etc. We are painting some equipment at work using HVLP spray guns, so I thought I could get this little job done while we already have a mess started.
Click to expand...

Modern coatings are a "system" stay within a product line and you'll do fine.

CJones said:
Thanks for any info,

-Chris
Click to expand...

No worries, mate.
 
smigaldi said:
1994 pickup truck. Rust-oleum:yes:
Click to expand...

Hey hey hey!! Don't talk about 'ol Blue like that! ;) I've done the Rust-o-Leum two or three times now.. That only lasts about one winter here in salt-land. *sigh* I never had this problem when I lived in God's country (i.e. anywhere SOUTH of the Mason-Dixon line)..

-Chris
 
Dart said:
No worries, mate.
Click to expand...

Wow.. See, I KNEW there would be someone on here that had some INTELLIGENT *cough* smigaldi *cough* advice. ;)

Thanks for the education.

-Chris
 
wsuffa said:
Check with Napa or your local auto store.
Click to expand...

I'll definitely be going with NAPA if they carry auto-paint at the local store. They always at least have a *CLUE* about what I'm talking about when I go in there - they don't just punch it up on a computer.

-Chris
 
hmm, i just covered the rust with glider bumper stickers...
 
I'd remove the bumper, take it in to have it bead blasted and powder coated.

At 100 a qt for paint these days it is cheaper.
 
CJones said:
Hey hey hey!! Don't talk about 'ol Blue like that! ;) I've done the Rust-o-Leum two or three times now.. That only lasts about one winter here in salt-land. *sigh* I never had this problem when I lived in God's country (i.e. anywhere SOUTH of the Mason-Dixon line)..

-Chris
Click to expand...

I call it the "sweet tea" line. Its more PC.
 
N801BH said:
:lol::lol:..

That thing was probably traded in during the "cash for clunkers" fiasco.:yesnod:
Click to expand...

Nope. Sold it to Tony when he moved to Wichita. As far as I know, he's still towing glider trailers all over who knows where with it. I have a 6 month-old son and I fully expect to buy the truck back from Tony when my son turns 16. ;)

I'm sure the bumper has a fresh set of rust on it now.
 
yep like I said I've covered (some of) the rust with glider bumper stickers. And Ol' Blue is at 269,000+ now, but we're going to put another couple thousand on it in the next two weeks for sure.
 
Go to the Chevy dealer and tell him you need 3 cans of 'Bumper Black' and you'd like it packaged on the bumpers of a new Duramax 2500.
 
Seriously, the first man to say Rustoleum won the cookie on this question, that or Krylon.
 
tonycondon said:
yep like I said I've covered (some of) the rust with glider bumper stickers. And Ol' Blue is at 269,000+ now, but we're going to put another couple thousand on it in the next two weeks for sure.
Click to expand...

Ahh... The resurrection of this thread makes more sense now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top