[NA]motorcycles[NA]

Let'sgoflying!

Let'sgoflying!

Touchdown! Greaser!
Joined
Feb 23, 2005
Messages
20,321
Location
west Texas
Display Name
Display name:
Dave Taylor
I am trying to learn about older BMW motorcycles....
ie which ones to buy or not, their current values
Anyone know of

a motorcycle blue book?
a BMW motorcycle chat room?
Thanks
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
I am trying to learn about older BMW motorcycles....
ie which ones to buy or not, their current values
Anyone know of

a motorcycle blue book?
a BMW motorcycle chat room?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Wow, look at the BMW V-8 bike in this month's issue of MotorCyclist mag. (I fix up old bikes but no BMW yet!)
 
I just sold my '87 BMW K75 today. :( But we all know that aviation is founded on the laws of physics . . . and flying lessons expand to take up all available money. sigh.
 
Maybe you guys will know.
What is this worth and is it a decent bike (I just want to use it for my midlife crisis around town - maybe the July 4th parade, no serious riding)


74 R75/6 (750cc) 6000mi 3 owners runs well ask 4000$
 
etsisk said:
I just sold my '87 BMW K75 today. :( But we all know that aviation is founded on the laws of physics . . . and flying lessons expand to take up all available money. sigh.
Click to expand...

I told my wife that it is the law of conservation of toys. Toys can neither be created or destroyed, but can change shape and form. I sold my Suzuki to pay for the private, and sold the Truimph to pay for IR. But it is all good, they were just sitting collecting dust anyway, might as well use the cash and let someone else enjoy riding them.

The R1150RT is in the garage now in many small pieces as I replace the shocks and do some stereo system hacks.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
74 R75/6 (750cc) 6000mi 3 owners runs well ask 4000$
Click to expand...

Sounds in line if its a good runner. Has it been ridden often enough (or stored properly) to ensure the carbs are not gummed up? Also, are you handy with tools? (I remember you living in a very small town, how far away is competent service should you need it?)
 
Thks Bill
I can turn a wrench but would go so far as to say 'Im handy' with tools.

I am 300miles from the nearest dealer but there are other motomechs closer.

I asked motorcycle bluebooks, none of them list such an old bike, but they say <1000$ for a 75 so I am wondering if it isnt priced way too high.
 
$4,000 is a rip off. I wouldn't pay over $500 for that bike. I've ridden one before, It's OK. But I'd rather have a Mid 70's Honda CB750 over it.

You could buy a year 2000 BMW R1000R for $4,000
BM1100.jpg
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
Maybe you guys will know.
What is this worth and is it a decent bike (I just want to use it for my midlife crisis around town - maybe the July 4th parade, no serious riding)


74 R75/6 (750cc) 6000mi 3 owners runs well ask 4000$
Click to expand...


I'll ask a friend of mine who used to own a BMW dealership way back in the 70's. He still has his bike, its got NDH and he's the original and only owner.
 
That seems like WAAY too much for that bike - similar bikes are going for around $2000 or less ($2K is the starting point).
 
Thanks for the tips, I'm not going to buy it at that price.
I found these for sale which helped a lot too:
http://www.ibmwr.org/market/adlist.php?cat=abs

I really might look for an older honda CB750 or 900, there are quite a few on ebay and that is honestly what I was lusting after anyway, these beemers just happened to show up nearby when I was looking.

Is it hard to get the honda 4-banger carbs set up equally??
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
Is it hard to get the honda 4-banger carbs set up equally??
Click to expand...

Not really. I've always just done it by ear. I'm sure with a proper setup you could do a better job, but mine seems pretty good to me.

If the bike has been sitting for any length of time you can COUNT on a carb job. It's not too bad on the CB750's. Just pull all four of them off...seperate them....keep each carb's part TO that carb. Do not swap parts from Carb 1 to Carb 4.. Etc. Keep them with eachother.

Get a carb kit which will include new gaskets and jets. Soak everything that you can in carb cleaner (don't soak anything plastic / rubber) etc.

Put it all together and you are set.

Every year before you are done riding it at the bare min. do the following:
1.) Put fuel stabalizer in the tank.
2.) fill the gas tank up to the TIP TOP. To where you cannot get another drop in.
3.) Turn the Gas Off.
4.) Start the bike and let it run until it dies (drains carbs)
5.) Turn the gas back on
6.) Start bike and let it run for a few more minutes (this ensures that the new stabalized fuel is in all of them)
7.) Turn the bike off.
8.) Take the battery out.
9.) Turn the gas off.
10.) Put it on the center stand.

If you do that. You'll never have to touch the carbs again, and every spring it'll fire up like new.

The CB750 Hondas are BULLETPROOF. They will never blow up. They will never die.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
I really might look for an older honda CB750 or 900, there are quite a few on ebay and that is honestly what I was lusting after anyway, these beemers just happened to show up nearby when I was looking.
Click to expand...

When I was looking around $500-1000 seemed to be a sensible price range for 650/750's in decent running to really nice condition ones. (I ended up with a very nice 1982 CB650)

The CB series seems to be fairly honest machines and easy to work on. If you're going to get something older, I'd recommend getting a good shop manual and do your own work. The maintenance shops will take you to the cleaners with labor rates.

Let'sgoflying! said:
Is it hard to get the honda 4-banger carbs set up equally??
Click to expand...

Not at all. You just have to follow the procedure. Make sure the throttle plates and cables are adjusted properly, warm it up then sync the idle jets. FWIW $10 and a trip to the local hardware store will get you a home made carb synchronizer that works quite well.


P.S. What Jesse said about bulletproof is absolutely correct unless it's been abused. 30K miles and my top end and what I've seen of the core engine and transmission looks like new. Typical high wear items give you some grief due to age but that's it. I mic parts when doing maintenance and wear is minimal to nonexistent. I had to mothball mine for 5 years due to the local hooligans. I did typical unmothball procedures plus a carburetor overhaul (IIRC 293 pieces cleaned by hand because I'm excessively picky), new battery, the fuel selector rubber was history, put air in tires, plus a general return to service/annual inspection - it fired up and ran like I've been riding it every day for the whole time.
 
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jangell said:
6.) Start bike and let it run for a few more minutes (this ensures that the new stabalized fuel is in all of them)
7.) Turn the bike off.
8.) Take the battery out.
9.) Turn the gas off.
10.) Put it on the center stand.
Click to expand...

I would still run the bike dry after getting stabil into the carbs, and then drain what is left from the bowls. Oily rags stuffed into the exhaust outlets and intake snorkel acts somewhat as a moisture barrier, and, rodents won't chew thru oil soaked rags to try to get inside to build nests.

A fresh oil change before winter storage ensures all that nasty acidic stuff won't be in the engine all winter. Likewise, I like to pull all the plugs and shoot a teaspoon or so of oil into each cylinder, then spin the engine with the starter with the plugs out to coat the top end. Then put the plugs back in.
 
What if I wanted something in that genre (age & make) with two cylinders? The idea of all those tiny pistons yammering up and down like a sewing machine....
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
What if I wanted something in that genre (age & make) with two cylinders? The idea of all those tiny pistons yammering up and down like a sewing machine....
Click to expand...

Dave,

Lets attack this from another angle, like you do when sizing up aircraft:

Define your mission!
 
Bill Jennings said:
I would still run the bike dry after getting stabil into the carbs, and then drain what is left from the bowls. Oily rags stuffed into the exhaust outlets and intake snorkel acts somewhat as a moisture barrier, and, rodents won't chew thru oil soaked rags to try to get inside to build nests.
Click to expand...

That is debatable. Some people like to drain them. Some don't.

I do not like the idea of having them completely empty and having the chance of moisture forming and sitting in the jets. I'd rather have that all covered with stabil fuel.

As long as you do SOMETHING, chances are, there won't be any surprises in the spring. It's the people that don't do anything and have a real mess on there hands come spring.

What I wrote was the bare minimum that you should do. I take it quite a bit farther, with like you said, plugging exhaust ports..In the spring I pull each spark plug out and put a little oil on in each cylinder for it's first start. Etc.

This year I didn't do anyhting more than stabil fuel though because I rode it at twice each month the whole winter.
 
jangell said:
Every year before you are done riding it at the bare min. do the following:
1.) Put fuel stabalizer in the tank.
2.) fill the gas tank up to the TIP TOP. To where you cannot get another drop in.
3.) Turn the Gas Off.
4.) Start the bike and let it run until it dies (drains carbs)
5.) Turn the gas back on
6.) Start bike and let it run for a few more minutes (this ensures that the new stabalized fuel is in all of them)
7.) Turn the bike off.
8.) Take the battery out.
9.) Turn the gas off.
10.) Put it on the center stand.
Click to expand...

Why not just ride through out the winter?

Len
 
Len Lanetti said:
Why not just ride through out the winter?
Click to expand...

QED, at least in Tennessee. When I lived in update NY, it was a bit more difficult, and even the "good" days resulted in your bike being covered with salt. Not nice.
 
Dave:

You need this: http://www.gg-quad-northamerica.com/

I'll be glad to introduce you to it when you come to town again, the (hopeful) importer is pilot friend, fellow Rotarian, likes fast things.


I can turn a wrench but would go so far as to say 'Im handy' with tools.
Click to expand...

Now, THAT is funny!
 
Ghery said:
Now there's a bike that would get up and scoot!
Click to expand...

True enough....until the Kawasaki KZ1000 hit the market. I had a friend that had a CB750 that he had put all kinds of horsepower mods on, and my stock '77 Kawasaki would eat him alive every time. I sure miss my ride!
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
74 R75/6 (750cc) 6000mi 3 owners runs well ask 4000$
Click to expand...

Talked to my friend last night... he says unless this bike is in showroom condition with all the goodies, top end is about 3K. If it were the 'K' version, it would be a good price, but not for the 'R'.
 
Len Lanetti said:
Why not just ride through out the winter?

Len
Click to expand...

I wish!! But trying to get up my driveway in the winter is a challenge even with snow tires and 4WD.
 

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Frank Browne said:
True enough....until the Kawasaki KZ1000 hit the market. I had a friend that had a CB750 that he had put all kinds of horsepower mods on, and my stock '77 Kawasaki would eat him alive every time. I sure miss my ride!
Click to expand...

Yeah, but the biggest bike I had in college was a Honda CL-175, either of them was a LOT faster. :D
 
Len Lanetti said:
Why not just ride through out the winter?

Len
Click to expand...

Road salt, for one thing. -80 F wind chill for another.
 
Bill Jennings said:
I told my wife that it is the law of conservation of toys. Toys can neither be created or destroyed, but can change shape and form. I sold my Suzuki to pay for the private, and sold the Truimph to pay for IR. But it is all good, they were just sitting collecting dust anyway, might as well use the cash and let someone else enjoy riding them.

The R1150RT is in the garage now in many small pieces as I replace the shocks and do some stereo system hacks.
Click to expand...

Ah yes. They toy equation. Where X equals the total value of toys... X=Y1+Y2+Y3+Yn
 
AirBaker said:
Ah yes. They toy equation. Where X equals the total value of toys... X=Y1+Y2+Y3+Yn
Click to expand...
The Toy Clause in the will:
"In the event of my death, please do not sell my toys for what I told you I paid for them. Get an appraisal!"
 
Len Lanetti said:
Why not just ride through out the winter?
Click to expand...
I did that one year in Wisconsin on my 78 Honda CB750. What can I say, I was young and foolish. I couldn't straighten my knees until July.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
What if I wanted something in that genre (age & make) with two cylinders? The idea of all those tiny pistons yammering up and down like a sewing machine....
Click to expand...

Try a Kawasaki Z400 or KZ400. They are awesome. Built in Lincoln, Nebraska too. The pistons move in unison and fire on alternate strokes.

I just got an '86 Radian for nothing. Spent a few bucks on it but it was well worth it. It's an inline four and runs smooth as glass. Don't worry about the "tiny pistons", they are nicely balanced.
 
jangell said:
Not really. I've always just done it by ear. I'm sure with a proper setup you could do a better job, but mine seems pretty good to me.

If the bike has been sitting for any length of time you can COUNT on a carb job. It's not too bad on the CB750's. Just pull all four of them off...seperate them....keep each carb's part TO that carb. Do not swap parts from Carb 1 to Carb 4.. Etc. Keep them with eachother.

Get a carb kit which will include new gaskets and jets. Soak everything that you can in carb cleaner (don't soak anything plastic / rubber) etc.

Put it all together and you are set.

Every year before you are done riding it at the bare min. do the following:
1.) Put fuel stabalizer in the tank.
2.) fill the gas tank up to the TIP TOP. To where you cannot get another drop in.
3.) Turn the Gas Off.
4.) Start the bike and let it run until it dies (drains carbs)
5.) Turn the gas back on
6.) Start bike and let it run for a few more minutes (this ensures that the new stabalized fuel is in all of them)
7.) Turn the bike off.
8.) Take the battery out.
9.) Turn the gas off.
10.) Put it on the center stand.

If you do that. You'll never have to touch the carbs again, and every spring it'll fire up like new.

The CB750 Hondas are BULLETPROOF. They will never blow up. They will never die.
Click to expand...
Amen. My first and only need to lay a bike down was on a 750, and those highway bars (don't think they were part of the stock) really saved my legs (though let's not talk about how quickly an exhause header can burn you through jeans). As I recall, I changed a peg, replaced a cover and lived with some scuffs, but the bike was otherwise fine.

Now, my memory is fuzzy, but don't you need to balance the carbs pretty carefully when you put them all back together and get'm back on the bike? I think I had a cheapy carb stick knock off from JC Whitney or the like. Also, if memory serves me right, there are rubber boots between the carbs and the intake manifold that you've got to check out for rot cracks which can be hard to see once assembled, but can cause you to be dragging a jug lean. Could be wrong, it's been a lot of years and a lot of bikes since then....
 
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Pjsmith said:
Now, my memory is fuzzy, but don't you need to balance the carbs pretty carefully when you put them all back together and get'm back on the bike? I think I had a cheapy carb stick knock off from JC Whitney or the like. Also, if memory serves me right, there are rubber boots between the carbs and the intake manifold that you've got to check out for rot cracks which can be hard to see once assembled, but can cause you to be dragging a jug lean. Could be wrong, it's been a lot of years and a lot of bikes since then....
Click to expand...

Yes. Sync'ing the carbs really is a must. But I've done it by ear before, It is doable. But it's not going to be "perfect".

Yup. There are the rubber boots. It is MUCH easier to remove the carbs from the boots then remove the boots from the engine and try to put them back on later. I personally just remove the carbs and visually inspect the boots while they are still attached to the engine.
 
jangell said:
Yes. Sync'ing the carbs really is a must. But I've done it by ear before, It is doable. But it's not going to be "perfect".

Yup. There are the rubber boots. It is MUCH easier to remove the carbs from the boots then remove the boots from the engine and try to put them back on later. I personally just remove the carbs and visually inspect the boots while they are still attached to the engine.
Click to expand...

Remove the airbox first. Then loosen the clamps and wiggle the rack of carbs off the rubber boots. Make sure the bike is on the centerstand! Learned this the hard way.

By the way, the bike won't run right without the airbox. I learned this the hard way, too.
 
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