[NA]Home electric switch ID[NA]

Let'sgoflying!

Touchdown! Greaser!
Joined
Feb 23, 2005
Messages
20,315
Location
west Texas
Display Name

Display name:
Dave Taylor
This is a 120v circuit that allows the homeowner to control power to a potable-hot water recycling pump.
55W
Half an amp
Continuous, single speed pump.
Looking at the switch I see no useful identifying marks.
Not really sure the function of the switch (it appears to perform more than just the function of on/off)
I see nothing in the pump documentation saying what it needs to be.
The toggle part is busted, I want to swap it out.
Pump pic for reference
 

Attachments

  • F0EC9A30-00D6-417F-B04D-D674CA6E376B.jpeg
    F0EC9A30-00D6-417F-B04D-D674CA6E376B.jpeg
    29.9 KB · Views: 66
  • 7165ACFC-FB2D-42D4-A4C5-2FACECCCA423.jpeg
    7165ACFC-FB2D-42D4-A4C5-2FACECCCA423.jpeg
    27.1 KB · Views: 64
  • 1DD44B42-02B7-4389-853C-B33654668B15.jpeg
    1DD44B42-02B7-4389-853C-B33654668B15.jpeg
    34.1 KB · Views: 63
Looks like a double pole switch (i.e., one that switches both sides of the circuit rather than your usual single pole light switch that only switches one leg). This is necessary if you're going to use it as the maintenance disconnect for a 240V device (since neither leg is grounded).
 
I have a recirculating hot water system in my house. It is a 120v recirc pump and has a regular toggle wall switch.

I used to have it on a timer that turned it off for a few hours overnight but eventually realized that it really wasn't saving me any money. The energy 'wasted' by the pump mostly ends up as heat which helps keep the water hot so very little energy cost from running the pump. Now I only turn it off if the house is going to be empty for more than a day or two. In those cases, I'm also setting the water heater to 'vacation' mode.
 
Is that for high load motor startups?
This motor will rarely be turned off and it is a very low amp draw.
Thinking a 20A switch will do nicely.

Motors, and generally inductive loads, can have orders of magnitude higher in-rush current than their steady operating current. You will often see relays (more specifically contactors) rated for specific power motors (e.g. 1/4HP or whatever) to handle this. If you can lookup the spec sheet for the motor it may disclose the inrush current. Or look for a switch rated for the power motor you are driving.
 
Ah, I'm quite familiar with those pumps. I have a bunch on my hydronic heating system. They don't consume that much current. Mine are driven by small relays in the system controller.
 
<--------- Licensed electrician

@Let'sgoflying!

From the installation manual:

NOTE: Model NRF/NBF/SSF Circulators are impedance
protected and do not require external overload protection


A standard 20A switch is acceptable. The motor rated switch is overkill X 50. That's why the exhaust fan in your bathroom uses a standard switch. It's also an impedance protected motor.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top