NA -- 2015/2106 Chevy Colorado

Doesn't sound like your much of a car guy eh?

As in car enthusiast? No. Just transportation and utility for me. I do work on my own cars, but any maintenance that will take me more than about 3 hours, I generally pay someone to do.


JKG
 
If I fix the transmission and the exhaust, I'm not sure that there are too many other major items that are likely to break.

Alternator, starter, water pump, front crank seal, rear crank seal, serpentine belt tensioner, timing belt (or chain) tensioner, throttle position sensor, crank position sensor and various ignition/fuel injection components come to mind. I had to replace all of them at one time or another on one of the high mileage cars. Even if you pay $2000/year in unplanned repairs, a high mileage car is still cheap compared with taking the depreciation hit on a new one. It comes down to reliability and wanting to drive a newer car.

Even if someone handed me $40k in cash with no strings attached, it wouldn't change the dilemma in my mind. Someone once told me that if you're struggling with what decision to make, sometimes that is the decision--in other words, stick with the devil you know.

Well, if you replaced it with another Frontier, you would pretty much drive the same car with some electronics added for 10 years to come.
Btw. the prices I see for Frontiers with 4WD and the six cylinder are between 26 and 28k. I think the Chevys and Toyotas are quite a bit more.

I dont drive a truck for a daily driver, just need one for the home depot runs and to tow a trailer with a subcompact tractor a couple of times a year. For a daily commute, I just dont think that trucks are terribly fuel efficient.
 
drove an S-10 for 15 years and 200k miles trouble free. sorry I know you're asking about Canyons... still shake my head in disbelief that none of the manufacturer's make small trucks anymore. and yes for 1000 bucks more you can get a full size ?!? wtf?
I would have paid an extra $1,000 for my Canyon because it was just what I wanted. Why would I pay more to get a truck that takes up more room in my garage, is harder to park and gets worse gas mileage?
 
2016 GMC Canyon - 212-225″ L x 74″ W x 70-71″ H
2017 GMC Sierra 1500 - 229-240″ L x 80″ W x 74″ H
1992 Chevrolet S-10 - 178-194″ L x 65″ W x 62-64″ H

I hear you, that's why I lamented the lack of a small truck and asked WTF. The difference between a "mid size" and full size is negligible. To me its a joke to even call it a "mid size" when its barely smaller than a full size. I would probably buy one if it were truly a "mid-size".

Unless you are cranking out some serious highway miles per day, the MPG is negligible too. Let me rephrase before someone whips out a calculator - negligible for me personally(yearly miles driven). The point being is with rebates and what not you can actually sometimes buy a full size cheaper than a "mid size". I would be happy with a "small size"(S10) but they don't make those anymore...
 
Last edited:
I drove half way across the country and back with a friend in his base model 2015 Colorado (four cylinder 2wd). It was packed to the gills with two dirt bikes and all sorts of gear. The truck was reasonably comfortable and got decent mileage. It is not a powerhouse but is adequate. The redesign is light years ahead of the version it replaced.

The biggest downside is pricing. They don't seem to offer much for rebates. I read somewhere that it is the same size as the Silverado a few generations back
 
When you say you can get a fullsize, are you comparing similar equipment and trim level?
 
When it comes to late model gas pickups, Toyota, hands down.
 
Just one year of insurance on a new car would easily buy a running beater.

My dad bought a new car a while back so I got his 98 Lumina when my 02 Impala finally overheated & locked up @ ~235k miles (another story but I have started it since then). The insurance for liability on my 98 Lumina is $278 a year.
 
Just one year of insurance on a new car would easily buy a running beater.

My dad bought a new car a while back so I got his 98 Lumina when my 02 Impala finally overheated & locked up @ ~235k miles (another story but I have started it since then). The insurance for liability on my 98 Lumina is $278 a year.

That's definitely going to vary state to state. Way more than that here.
 
My Canyon is the 5 cyl and does a good job for what I need. I had it in for an oil change a couple of weeks ago and saw a 2015 model w/ almost no miles and took it for a while. I LOVED it. Plenty of power, quiet, smooth. I'm not sure what problems you guys had with the seats. I thought it felt great. Much better than the seats in my Canyon. But then again I use mine for working, which ironically is why I didn't keep the 2015 Canyon. There's just no way I'm getting in that truck when I'm covered in dirt, etc. It was just too nice.

Then again, if I'm not mistaken the 2015 Colorado was Motor Trend's truck of the year. But really, if I wasn't so rough on my truck I'd have bought the truck without hesitation.
 
And driver to driver. and you seem like someone who has way too much fun behind the wheel.

Well, lucky for me, they base insurance rates off of the number of tickets/claims that are made, and not how I actually drive. I have gone more than double the open road interstate speed limits on more than one occasion. :D
 
When you say you can get a fullsize, are you comparing similar equipment and trim level?

Wasn't my point really and comparing mid to full isn't exactly apples to apples however -

http://www.jonhallchevrolet.com/Veh..._2_Wheel_Drive_WT-Daytona_Beach-FL/2810807913
http://www.jonhallchevrolet.com/Veh..._2_Wheel_Drive_WT-Daytona_Beach-FL/2768810193

At the local dealer there is a price delta of $400 between a Colorado WT 4cyl and a Silverado WT 6cyl, so other than a couple of inches either direction keeping you from putting it in the garage why wouldn't you buy full size ? Believe me, highly interested in the Colorado/Canyon here but I have a hard time justifying for me over a couple inches and couple MPG.

The point I was trying to make is I'd rather have the option of the price and size delta of a full size and a S10 sized "mid size".
 
The reasons to get a mid-size over a full-size mostly comes down to vehicle width, not length. The Colorado/Canyon are about 6 inches narrower than the Silverado/Sierra, and that makes a big difference in ease of exiting the vehicle in parking lots, and can make a difference in off-road driving comfort if you're driving a lot of narrow trails.
 
That's definitely going to vary state to state. Way more than that here.

Yeah. Aren't we lucky to live in the only state that forces us to pay into a catastrophic claims fund that doubles our insurance rate? :mad3:
 
That's definitely going to vary state to state. Way more than that here.

True. In the Republik of Kalifornia, I pay about $500/year on the Bimmer for liability and uninsured motorist.
 
My full coverage insurance went up $60(about 10%) for the year from the (2003)Jeep Liberty to the Colorado, same coverage limits, no other cars.
 
The reasons to get a mid-size over a full-size mostly comes down to vehicle width, not length. The Colorado/Canyon are about 6 inches narrower than the Silverado/Sierra, and that makes a big difference in ease of exiting the vehicle in parking lots, and can make a difference in off-road driving comfort if you're driving a lot of narrow trails.

Heh, again my point - the current "mid size" is only 2"W shy of a 90's full size. A current "mid size" is already full sized for all intents and purposes as far as I'm concerned.

The size of the truck keeps bloating as much as the price tags.

All this is ambiguous anyhow talking about size of parking lots and garages. Same as picking an airplane - what is the mission ? buy what meets the mission. For me, there is no real mission so for practically the same price point I see no reason not to go full size.
 
Yeah. Aren't we lucky to live in the only state that forces us to pay into a catastrophic claims fund that doubles our insurance rate? :mad3:

On the plus side, if I am in an accident, and injured to the point that I cannot perform my job, that fund will pay my current salary indefinitely.
 
Update from the Nissan dealer: trade value as-is, $1k; with the transmission fixed, $5k. Price to fix (replace) transmission is $4k out the door.

Seems like I don't lose by getting it fixed, even if I change my mind and decide to trade it in the next day.


JKG
 
Update from the Nissan dealer: trade value as-is, $1k; with the transmission fixed, $5k. Price to fix (replace) transmission is $4k out the door.

They don't seem to be particularly interested in your business.
 
They don't seem to be particularly interested in your business.

I don't think they are, and I wasn't impressed with the prices they gave me for either new or lightly used Frontiers.

I could probably part out the Frontier on my own for more than $1k, and in the last couple of months I've put about $600 into it (new battery, new fan clutch, misc. items) so I get essentially nothing if I trade it in as-is.

It still needs tires, brakes, and exhaust work, but none of those are an imperative at the moment.
 
Last edited:
Update from the Nissan dealer: trade value as-is, $1k; with the transmission fixed, $5k. Price to fix (replace) transmission is $4k out the door.

Seems like I don't lose by getting it fixed, even if I change my mind and decide to trade it in the next day.


JKG
If interested, send me your VIN and zip code by PM and I'll research availability and price of a used transmission with warranties that mirror new and rebuilt ones (aka 1 or 2 years parts and labor).
 
I don't think they are, and I wasn't impressed with the prices they gave me for either new or lightly used Frontiers.

You would think that they can look forward and see several years worth of warranty and service work if they tie you to the shop.

I could probably part out the Frontier on my own for more than $1k, and in the last couple of months I've put about $600 into it (new battery, new fan clutch, misc. items) so I get essentially nothing if I trade it in as-is.

The engine alone should go for twice that.

It still needs tires, brakes, and exhaust work, but none of those are an imperative at the moment.

4k sounds a bit high for a truck transmission. This should be a fairly easy swap. Get some quotes from independent transmission shops.
 
4k sounds a bit high for a truck transmission. This should be a fairly easy swap. Get some quotes from independent transmission shops.

Called a couple local independent shops. $5-6k to rebuild at an independent. Why? Because Nissan apparently uses a separate transmission computer housed in the transmission, which often needs replaced and can only be bought from Nissan. Then, it has to be programmed by a Nissan dealer, which means the vehicle would need to be towed to the dealer after the transmission is rebuilt. If the transmission computer doesn't need to be replaced then the independent rebuild would likely be more in line with the dealer replacement.

The big problem with these transmissions is that Nissan had an antifreeze cross-contamination issue with them, which supposedly is not what killed mine. But Nissan's solution in many affected cases was to replace the radiator and flush the transmission, and then hope for the best. Many folks I think dumped the vehicles at that point, suspecting that a transmission once contaminated wouldn't have the lifespan of an uncontaminated one. So I would be wary of used ones unless they are late model.


JKG
 
so for practically the same price point I see no reason not to go full size.

From what I've seen (and I've been lightly shopping for a Colorado/Canyon to buy in a year or so), the convergence point for pricing between the Colorado and the Silverado only exists for a few specific build-out types, and only when you happen to catch the best possible rebates on the Silverado, which are usually model year-end close-outs on the low to mid-range models with relatively limited availability and selection, but for a lot of folks, this works out fine in favor of the Silverado. If you're looking for a 4x4 and/or a Z-71 package, the Silverado is several thousand more.
 
Jeep... New ones are trash. Chrysler. My opinion anyway. Older the better. Middle aged ones ate brakes and leaked oil on everything but usually started and moved on their own always.

This made me giggle. Major repair on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee this past weekend was a $37 fan clutch. 240k miles and still going. It does mark it's spot, however.
 
This made me giggle. Major repair on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee this past weekend was a $37 fan clutch. 240k miles and still going. It does mark it's spot, however.

My 96 Cherokee didn't even make it 30,000 miles. Transmission, engine, everything. Biggest POS I ever owned.
 
...and I had an '89 Cherokee that I sold at around 160k miles, having replaced only three fuel injectors (made by Bosch, they started leaking). It was a hoss. That 4 liter straight six - great engine.

The guy to whom I sold it had it well over 200k miles last I spoke (long time ago).
 
...and I had an '89 Cherokee that I sold at around 160k miles, having replaced only three fuel injectors (made by Bosch, they started leaking). It was a hoss. That 4 liter straight six - great engine.

The guy to whom I sold it had it well over 200k miles last I spoke (long time ago).

I bet you probably replaced a timing/crank sensor in there a time or two, lol. The 4.0L was great, but those sensors going bad would reduce it to worthless!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This made me giggle. Major repair on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee this past weekend was a $37 fan clutch. 240k miles and still going. It does mark it's spot, however.

You missed an important word. New ones. 1997 isn't new.
 
Speaking of the newer Jeep crap...

Don't the taillights of the Renegade, with those little X's, look like a cartoon character who's just been punched out?
 
But yes, for $5-6k I can fix it. I think the question really is, what other major expenses could lurk beyond this point? I can't think of too many.

Trucks are pretty simple. My wife's German car needed $4k put into it at 165kmi, I balked and we got a newer car. OTOH, I'd have no problems putting $4k into my 15yr old F-150, trucks are pretty dirt simple and inexpensive to repair. Your truck, at 145k, still has a lot of life left. Also, if you have any good indy transmission shops in town, I'd get a second opinion.
 
Trucks are pretty simple. My wife's German car needed $4k put into it at 165kmi, I balked and we got a newer car. OTOH, I'd have no problems putting $4k into my 15yr old F-150, trucks are pretty dirt simple and inexpensive to repair. Your truck, at 145k, still has a lot of life left. Also, if you have any good indy transmission shops in town, I'd get a second opinion.

Unfortunately, I think the "simpleness" of trucks ended around '03 for most half-tons. The F-150 got increasingly complex in '04 for sure, and I'm not sure how much I'd put into my '08 before I said 'screw it', lol. Pre-96 is a cakewalk for any of the truck-vehicle brands.
 
Unfortunately, I think the "simpleness" of trucks ended around '03 for most half-tons. The F-150 got increasingly complex in '04 for sure, and I'm not sure how much I'd put into my '08 before I said 'screw it', lol. Pre-96 is a cakewalk for any of the truck-vehicle brands.

I suppose so. I'd love to get a new F-150, but it's hard to justify when my 2001 still looks nice, is very reliable, and runs well.
 
I don't think they are, and I wasn't impressed with the prices they gave me for either new or lightly used Frontiers.

I could probably part out the Frontier on my own for more than $1k, and in the last couple of months I've put about $600 into it (new battery, new fan clutch, misc. items) so I get essentially nothing if I trade it in as-is.

It still needs tires, brakes, and exhaust work, but none of those are an imperative at the moment.
What year Frontier are you looking at, we usually keep a year old crew cab 4X2 in stock. We get them from Enterprise, which is probably where your local dealer get his, if you want a carfax or anything, just PM me the VIN. :)
 
I suppose so. I'd love to get a new F-150, but it's hard to justify when my 2001 still looks nice, is very reliable, and runs well.

Yup.

I've been debating getting a pickup, I'd rather spend almost the same money and get a classic ( 70s or older) Chevy, fresh paint (maybe even pearl), LS engine, 6 speed tranny, plush interior, great sound system, etc.

Performs better, looks better, holds its value better, end up costing less, and is something I can turn a wrench on and get parts for, even better than OEM, easily from summit etc


crate-motor-guide-1973-2013-gmcchevy-trucks15.jpg

More off road/snow


473c039d1e177632010b79b9ba95f3b6.jpg

More street



... Or spend way more for a slower, less head turner, "new" truck witch will become an "old" truck the second a new body style comes out.
 
Y'all are making it hard for me! I'm looking to buy a used truck and really only need something like a Frontier/Tacoma/Ranger/S10 type. Or a single/extended cab Sierra/Silverado/F150. What about those Dodge Dakotas? What I read they're pretty unreliable. Kick myself for selling my El Camino, '87.
 
Mmm, LS conversions. Dropped an LS1 from a '98 Camaro donor into my 914 a while back, with the Renegade Hybrids conversion kit. 310 bhp pushing 2380 lb. is HIGHLY entertaining!!! I sold it [sob] to help
finance the RV-9A project.

I kept it narrow body (hate the 916 look), 5-lug conversion, 911 brakes, muffled it down, dual exhaust (single pipe in stock location, but hidden dump pipe). Sleeper extraordinaire.

IMG_1474.JPG
 
Back
Top