{N/A} Regular Unleaded vs. Midgrade?

Recommended for our Ford Flex with twin-turbo Ecoboost:

3.5L V6 EcoBoost® engine
“Regular” unleaded gasoline with a pump (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87 is recommended. Some stations offer fuels posted as “Regular” with an octane rating below 87, particularly in high altitude areas. Fuels with octane levels below 87 are not recommended. Premium fuel will provide improved performance and is recommended for severe duty usage such
as trailer tow.
 
It is false economy to put 87 in a car that requires premium. The computer will see the 87..............reduce power, pull timing.........and your gas milage will go down. It will cost you, not save!!
 
It is false economy to put 87 in a car that requires premium. The computer will see the 87..............reduce power, pull timing.........and your gas milage will go down. It will cost you, not save!!
I cover up the octane sticker on the pump when I have to put 87 octane in, so the computer can't see it ... :D
 
It is false economy to put 87 in a car that requires premium. The computer will see the 87..............reduce power, pull timing.........and your gas milage will go down. It will cost you, not save!!

My motorcycle manual recommends 91 min, although it says it will run on 87 with decreased performance and efficiency. I did some testing and I see a 10% decrease in MPG when running 87 vs 91.
 
I have found a few older cars that started off running well on unleaded regular, but as they get older start needing mid grade. I was told that it is carbon buildup that causes this, but I've never seen any proof of that. My mother had an older Buick that was in that situation, once it got to about 110,000 miles it needed mid grade to run well, on regular it would knock.
 
What engine? I'd be surprised if it doesn't knock, even on 91. It may not be audible but it is there. You might want to invest in tools to datalog the car and see just how much timing is being pulled.

OP has a EA888 (2015).
 
OP has a EA888 (2015).

I kind of assumed so. Can’t say I’m a fan of those engines, the direct injection system on the one I’ve got has kind of soured me on them.

I’d be surprised if it isn’t knocking on the low octane fuel. To me, letting the car always knock and relying on the ECU to pull timing to fix it isn’t a good long term plan but it will likely tolerate it.
 
This is a controversial question on car-related boards. Here's what I've learned and observed over the years. Take it for what it's worth.

First of all, the official position of the government and most consumer organizations is that there's no advantage to using gasoline of a higher octane rating than what the manufacturer recommends. Unfortunately, that's not always the case. But even more unfortunately, there are too many variables for any answer to be right all the time.

First of all, as all pilots know but most people don't, the "octane" rating is actually an anti-knock rating, and nothing more. So unless you're driving your car in a manner such as would induce detonation, using higher-octane fuel than recommended would provide no benefit -- if that were the only difference. But it's not.

I used to have a client that was a primary gasoline supplier that mixed the gas that many different companies pump. No matter the brand or grade, all gasoline starts with the same stock. The only differences are the additive packages. His company added the additives to the basic gas and supplied it to the various labels. What he told me was that in reality, there are more differences between grades of fuel at a given label than just the octane alone. But they vary based on location, time of the year, the label, and the upstream supplier.

One important difference is how much energy the fuel contains. Around here, 89-octane fuel actually contains slightly more energy per gallon than either 87-octane or 91-octane fuel because of the way it's blended. I forget the actual numbers, but the gas that arrives in the big truck only has two octane ratings. (I think they're 85 and 89, but I could be wrong.) Everything else is a blend of those two, plus ethanol.

Whatever the exact numbers, the way it works out is that 89-octane has the least ethanol by volume, which means it has the most energy by volume because gasoline is much more energy-dense than ethanol. To increase the octane over 89, they add ethanol, which reduces the tendency to detonate, but which also reduces the energy density.

The higher energy density of 89-octane over 87-octane is enough to provide a slight increase in MPG, but it wouldn't be enough to make it worth the cost for most people. But for some people it does. The difference is whether one's driving is such that it is likely to induce detonation.

Where I live, in the hilly Catskills, I get between five and ten percent better fuel economy on 89 than 87 in local driving, but no measurable improvement over 89 or when driving on an interstate. I can also take most hills one gear higher with 89 than I can with 87. The reason is that when the engine starts to knock, all cars' ECUs take actions to stop it. The most common compensations are to retard the spark, enrich the mixture, and downshift (on automatic-transmission cars). All of these actions reduce fuel economy, but are necessary to prevent and correct knocking.

By using a higher-octane fuel, you make the car less susceptible to knocking, hence the ECU doesn't have to apply inefficient corrections as frequently. Whether it makes any measurable MPG difference depends on the terrain, the way you drive, how much weight you're carrying, whether you're pulling a trailer, and many other factors. But the point is that if your driving is such that it tends to induce knocking, then using a higher-octane fuel will usually increase MPG by reducing the frequency of anti-knocking corrections. If not, then it won't.

In a nutshell, the best answer to the question of whether or not it's worth it to use 89 in a car that can use 87 is "It depends." If you live on a prairie and drive like your maiden aunt, then probably it's not. If you live in the mountains, frequently pull a trailer, and/or drive like Mario Andretti, then quite possibly it is, depending on the price difference

What I usually do is quickly calculate the price difference while I'm at the pump, and if it's 10 percent or less, I choose the 89-octane. If it's more than 10 percent, I choose the 87. I'm actually spending a bit more than I'm saving at a delta of 10 percent, but the car runs better going up the hills. That counts for something, too.

Rich
 
It is false economy to put 87 in a car that requires premium. The computer will see the 87..............reduce power, pull timing.........and your gas milage will go down. It will cost you, not save!!
Yep. My car ran like garbage on it when the dealer put 87 in when I first got it. Felt like it was only making maybe 380hp. Now I’m tuned for 93, so 87 isn’t an option at all
 
I frequently run zero-ethanol 91 octane. Just winterized the boat yesterday and topped off the tank with 20 gallons of it. 91 octane is not 89 with ethanol mixed in to bump up the octane.


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I frequently run zero-ethanol 91 octane. Just winterized the boat yesterday and topped off the tank with 20 gallons of it. 91 octane is not 89 with ethanol mixed in to bump up the octane.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ethanol-free obviously isn't modified with alcohol. I also have no idea whether what my client told me years ago is still the case or was ever the case anywhere other than here. There are more than a dozen different regional gasoline blends in use at any given time of the year, according to the same client, each tweaked to particular regional climate conditions and environmental needs.

When I go downstate to visit family, I try to fill up with ethanol-free fuel if I can because the absence of corn boosts MPG just enough that I can comfortably make it there and back without stopping for gas. But in New York, it's illegal to sell ethanol-free gas except as premium, which I think they define as 90-octane or higher, so I have to pay a bit for that convenience.

Rich
 
Our cars are diesels over here in Europe. Now they are selling an Ultimate Diesel next to the regular. Anyone seen that in the States?

Flint Hills resources sells a #2 diesel with a higher cetane and lower wax content. With the lower wax, they can sell it in the northern plains without blending #1 diesel in the winter. When in drove 183 miles to work every day, there was a 3mpg difference to the 'rack' #2/#1 blend sold at other stations. It also reduced the audible 'knock' during idle, but I wouldnt have bought it for that effect.
 
Over here we are 7% biodiesel. They also have a “truck” diesel. I haven’t researched what the difference is between them.

The 1in 'high flow' nozzle. They draw from the same tank.

Depending on the state, there can also be differences how your motor fuel tax is calculated if you are a motor-carrier.
 
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