n/a Commuter car ideas

KeithASanford

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Okay, so I'm destroying my 2004 Toyota Tacoma driving it 80 miles a day. I want to park it and since I only work 4 days a week, I want to buy a commuter car that's just above a beater because of the 40 miles each way to and from work. I'm looking for ideas and here's my requirements:

6 cyl

good highway mpg(relatively)

easy to maintain

at least 25 years old
 
Accord or Camry. Personally, I'd drop the six cylinder requirement and go for a Corolla or Prizm.

Or get the Fiero. You either pay for the car or the repairs.
 
Okay, so I'm destroying my 2004 Toyota Tacoma driving it 80 miles a day.

It's a Tacoma. It's not the miles destroying it. :D


If they're all highway miles, why the 6 cyl requirement?

Really, it sounds like any old mini Mazda/Nissan/Toyota will do the job for you. Fairly reliable and decent mileage, especially a circa early 90s Camry.
 
I remember attempting to merge onto the expressway in a Toyota Tercel. I think I did 0-60 in 10-15 minutes. I guess the six cylinder is not that important. My Malibu was pretty quick as a four cylinder.

Fiero, huh? I've always liked them. Will they accommodate my long legs? The Tercel didn't, which is why I dealt it after like 9 months.
 
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Why does it have to be a 6cyl?

If you're willing to look past that, my answer to juuuuust about everything is a first or second gen MR2. Or a Prelude. Those are always cool. Or an Integra. Those are cool too.
 
Except for the 6 cylinder part, your mission can be covered quite well with a 1990 Geo Prizm with a 1.6L and a stick. 40 MPG highway, plenty peppy if you're willing to wind it up hard. Toyota drivetrain with direct-acting OHC (doesn't seem to wear valves even after 1/4 million miles). And real cheap since people confuse it with a Metro all the time.
 
Except for the 6 cylinder part, your mission can be covered quite well with a 1990 Geo Prizm with a 1.6L and a stick. 40 MPG highway, plenty peppy if you're willing to wind it up hard. Toyota drivetrain with direct-acting OHC (doesn't seem to wear valves even after 1/4 million miles). And real cheap since people confuse it with a Metro all the time.

I put 210,000 miles on a 2000 Corolla (same thing) and did nothing but red line it at every opportunity (not that it had a tach), and shifted without the clutch. Only expenses were gas and oil. Still ran great when I traded it in. Honest 40 mpg on the freeway.

I would have kept it but the company had this stupid notion that a) sticks were a bad thing and b) it had too many miles on it.
 
Subaru any of them 20+ mpg, manual, AWD.
 
I've been pondering the same problem recently, but decided that fuel economy was more important than power. For that reason, I ruled out 6-cylinders. Also, I'm in snow country, which almost necessitates AWD. So that leads primarily to Subarus. The problem with the older ones (and maybe even newer ones) is that the head gaskets leak; already owned one purchased new which experienced that problem. AWD does cut into the fuel economy, though.


JKG
 
at least 25 years old

Trying to get out of the smog check, I presume?

Are there no transit options for you?

My vote is '90 Civic or Accord. I have a friend who's about to retire his '92 Accord with 280k miles. I'm ignoring the 6 cylinder requirement. That's stupid.
 
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BMW E36, manual, RWD, gas mileage in the 20's. Can pick up nice ones >3500 bucks.
 
Haven't the CRXs gone niche car? Overpriced for what you can get. Good cars, had one, but just old Honda bones.
 
Subaru wagon.

If you understand how to mx them they last forever and are very easy to work on, handle well, get good mileage and handle adverse conditions.
 
I've been pondering the same problem recently, but decided that fuel economy was more important than power. For that reason, I ruled out 6-cylinders. Also, I'm in snow country, which almost necessitates AWD. So that leads primarily to Subarus. The problem with the older ones (and maybe even newer ones) is that the head gaskets leak; already owned one purchased new which experienced that problem. AWD does cut into the fuel economy, though.


JKG

This is a mx issue not a subie issue, what brand thermostats are they using, OEM Subaru or some crap Autozone ones? Did they follow the first simple factory mx schedule?
 
I gave my mom's 1986 Camry to a family friend and he still drives it 5 years later. So agree with those who voted Camry.
 
Honda Accord,can't kill them. Also not a bad ride for commuting.
 
This is a mx issue not a subie issue, what brand thermostats are they using, OEM Subaru or some crap Autozone ones? Did they follow the first simple factory mx schedule?

The coolant leaks on older Subarus have nothing to do with thermostats. They leak externally from the headgasket due to a design mistake. And yes, my car had the magic juice and factory coolant, still 10,000 miles after the recall extended warranty expired, the gasket let loose. Between that and the usual oil leak, I think I had about 2.5k in unplanned repairs on the Subie. Not bad for 200k miles, not great either, particularly compared with my Honda and the Mazdas my brother in law has gone through.

If you need AWD, nothing beats a Subaru. But he already has a truck, so no need for the commuter to drag along an extra driven axle.

Accord, Camry, Mazda Millenia all provide reliable low cost transportation. I have a 6 cylinder Accord that has served as a daily commuter for my wife. In 190k miles, I had one broken motor-mount, a starter and a clutch master cylinder. While the 6 cylinder stick is fun to drive, for a commuter I would get the 4-cylinder as it provides better fuel economy and is easier to work on (the 6 cylinder is a '5lb of sheet in a 2lb bag' engine compartment).
 
The coolant leaks on older Subarus have nothing to do with thermostats. They leak externally from the headgasket due to a design mistake. And yes, my car had the magic juice and factory coolant, still 10,000 miles after the recall extended warranty expired, the gasket let loose. Between that and the usual oil leak, I think I had about 2.5k in unplanned repairs on the Subie. Not bad for 200k miles, not great either, particularly compared with my Honda and the Mazdas my brother in law has gone through.

If you need AWD, nothing beats a Subaru. But he already has a truck, so no need for the commuter to drag along an extra driven axle.

The Subaru headgasket fix is easy you just replace them with the MLS ones used on the turbo models. Change the timing belt, idler, and tensioner every 70,000 to 80,000 miles and they will run 300,000+ thousand miles.
 
I want to see the math where a change from 20 mpg to 35-40 mpg on a 40 mile commute, pays for a commuter car vs simply maintaining the pickup truck properly. And how long that takes. Including additional insurance expense.

Run the truck into the ground, rebuild whatever broke, run it into the ground again.

You can't make up the price of the vehicle plus insurance costs with fuel below $2/gallon. Yeah, it'll go up, so call it an average of $2.50/gal or even $3/gal for the math -- and you still can't make it work.
 
99 thru 03 VW diesel with the ALH motor. I've got a 2001 diesel bug and crack off 48 mpg on my 100+ mile daily commute. Typically I put 1000 miles a week on it. I've put a little over 200k on it and expect to put another 300k+ on it before I retire.
 
The Subaru headgasket fix is easy you just replace them with the MLS ones used on the turbo models.

Oh, sure, what's another head job :rolleyes2:

Change the timing belt, idler, and tensioner every 70,000 to 80,000 miles and they will run 300,000+ thousand miles.

That they have in common with many other consumer engines these days.
 
99 thru 03 VW diesel with the ALH motor. I've got a 2001 diesel bug and crack off 48 mpg on my 100+ mile daily commute. Typically I put 1000 miles a week on it. I've put a little over 200k on it and expect to put another 300k+ on it before I retire.

I bought a diesel jetta when I had a long commute. Paid for itself in 3 years and 150k miles. Now it's just serving out its remaining useful life at the hands of my mother in law.
 
I want to see the math where a change from 20 mpg to 35-40 mpg on a 40 mile commute, pays for a commuter car vs simply maintaining the pickup truck properly. And how long that takes. Including additional insurance expense.

Run the truck into the ground, rebuild whatever broke, run it into the ground again.

You can't make up the price of the vehicle plus insurance costs with fuel below $2/gallon. Yeah, it'll go up, so call it an average of $2.50/gal or even $3/gal for the math -- and you still can't make it work.

That's definitely true for a new car, but for a $1000 Prizm, the economics change. 400 gal to break even isn't insurmountable at all.

Insurance costs are a wash. You had it on the old vehicle, too.
 
That's definitely true for a new car, but for a $1000 Prizm, the economics change. 400 gal to break even isn't insurmountable at all.

Insurance costs are a wash. You had it on the old vehicle, too.

That'll work, the $5000 old CRX seems nuts to me.
 
Okay, so I'm over the whole 6 cyl thing and I never really gave a budget. From what I'm reading here, if I spend more than maybe $1500, it's not worth it. :dunno:

I'm not trying to save money as much as I want my Toyota truck to last FOREVER :D, so I'm looking for a beater that can take 80 miles a day on the I-95 corridor, that's at least 25 years old so maybe I can get antique plates on it so I don't have to bother with the emissions and inspections. I want to be able to maintain it using the local pick and pull and Advance Auto Parts store, you know, the cheap stuff. Will these conditions narrow the field a bit?
 
Emissions inspections aren't a big deal, and will help you keep that mileage. Ignoring a check engine light has a habit of plugging up exhaust and making the vehicle run like a dog.

Even my piece of **** Saturn passed its last emissions inspection with the engine knocking all the way through it. Shortly after, it broke a rod bolt.

10 years old is plenty for PnP to have examples, and for Advance to stock parts. If you make it too old, they start to disappear again.
 
An ALH powered VW is going to run you under $5K for a good one. Stay away from the automatics as the trans has a high failure rate once it passes 125K miles. Use a TDI Guru for timing belt changes unless you want to invest in the few specialty tools and the software to do it yourself. VCDS runs about 300$ and is well worth the bucks if you do your own maintenance. Timing belt/water pump change runs about $750 to $1000 including parts when done by a guru. The kit changes everything but the crank, cam and injection pump gears, that touches the timing belt. It should be done around 80K miles for best longevity of the engine. Oil changes are at 10k intervals and not that hard to do. Other than routine wear items, around 200k, you will need to replace all the bushings in the suspension and possibly the ball joints due to wear.

I'll cross 300k on my bug probably in February, and it will about time for it's 3rd timing belt since I've owned it.

As to running antique plates on your commuter car, Va DMV has this onthe website : You may not use your vehicle for general, daily transportation. This includes, but is not limited to, driving to and from work.
 
An ALH powered VW is going to run you under $5K for a good one. Stay away from the automatics as the trans has a high failure rate once it passes 125K miles. Use a TDI Guru for timing belt changes unless you want to invest in the few specialty tools and the software to do it yourself. VCDS runs about 300$ and is well worth the bucks if you do your own maintenance. Timing belt/water pump change runs about $750 to $1000 including parts when done by a guru. The kit changes everything but the crank, cam and injection pump gears, that touches the timing belt. It should be done around 80K miles for best longevity of the engine. Oil changes are at 10k intervals and not that hard to do. Other than routine wear items, around 200k, you will need to replace all the bushings in the suspension and possibly the ball joints due to wear.

I'll cross 300k on my bug probably in February, and it will about time for it's 3rd timing belt since I've owned it.

As to running antique plates on your commuter car, Va DMV has this onthe website : You may not use your vehicle for general, daily transportation. This includes, but is not limited to, driving to and from work.


The best car I've ever owned was a 2001 Volkswagen Passat, but it wasn't a TDI. I'll consider the ALH power planted turbo diesel if it is as advertised. A co-worker told me to get one when I raised this question at work. Did the Passat come with one?

As far as the antique plates, I've been told by two mechanics, both of whom drive their "antique" vehicles to and from work, that there is no real system of enforcement, so I'll look into what the actual penalty is before I take this route. Thanks!
 
Oh, sure, what's another head job :rolleyes2:


No big deal to do it when you need to do the timing belt anyway. My Subaru shop even has a package deal. Not kidding. Cheap too. I could do both in my garage in a weekend and the package was cheap enough I wouldn't bother. Just let 'em do it.

That's definitely true for a new car, but for a $1000 Prizm, the economics change. 400 gal to break even isn't insurmountable at all.



Insurance costs are a wash. You had it on the old vehicle, too.


So you're going with 400 * 2.5.

40 / 20 MPG ... 2 gallons.
40 / 40 MPG ... 1 gallon.

It's going to take over a year just to break even on fuel alone.

Insurance: You aren't going to remove insurance on the gas guzzler are you? You're keeping both vehicles right? Annual licensing fees? Taxes? Initial sales tax?

I would guestimate (and keeping in mind that we own six vehicles and three trailers, and I keep good records on every penny spend on the "fleet") that you'll hit true break-even around 3 years in.

A $1000 beater will need some sort of major repair at a minimum of $500 at least once in those three years and that'll reset the break even out another year.

You can make it slightly less painful if you do absolutely all work on them yourself, and already have the tools or consider their purchase not part of the net/net cost of the fleet.

Little problems will also crop up on the vehicle that sits unused more often.

Not trying to talk you out of your dream of commuting in a POS. It'll be great. ;)

(Mine aren't down to the $1000 POS quality level yet, but I won't be keeping them that long. I'll let them get old, but not ugly or poorly maintained. Well actually one isn't running but it's a bigger project to rebuild a TV remote truck into something else...)

You aren't going to save any appreciable money for roughly three years. You'll need something better than the $1000 one to make it make any sense and then the recovery cost horizon pushes out to five years.

It's a money waster until it pays for itself. No getting around that with a "fleet".
 
"Stole" a minty 1996 Lexus ES300. I'm not going to save any money, but I'm happy not to have to drive my truck 80 miles a day.

That's the 2nd time I bought a used car within 24 hours of a holiday and saved 40% off the asking price. I might consider that a buying strategy from now on... :D
 
Accord or Camry. Personally, I'd drop the six cylinder requirement and go for a Corolla or Prizm.

Or get the Fiero. You either pay for the car or the repairs.

:yes:
at least 25 years old and a highway beater? The accord and camry were the first cars to come to mind. Probably the most dependable cars from that era and maybe the best combination of comfort/fuel economy. Not gonna get any looks of envy from teenagers, but that's not what you need for this car.
 
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